• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.373-383
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• 2022

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 ㎍/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 ㎍/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 ㎍/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 ㎍/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.12-18
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• 2015

Skin is an emerging target tissue in pharmaceutical and cosmetic science. Safety assessment for dermal toxicity is a critical step for development of topically applicable pharmaceutical agents and ingredients in cosmetics. Urgent needs exist to set up toxicity testing methods for dermal safety, and identification of novel biomarkers for pathological cutaneous alteration is highly required. Here we will discuss if vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) has a potential as a biomarker for dermal impairment. Experimental and clinical evidences for induction of keratinocytic VEGF under pathological conditions will be reviewed.

• ALGAE
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.403-414
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• 2016

The use of ionizing radiation and radioactive elements is becoming increasingly popular with the rapid developments in nuclear technology, radiotherapy, and radio diagnostic methods. However, ionizing radiation can directly or indirectly cause life-threatening complications such as cancer, radiation burns, and impaired immunity. Environmental contamination with radioactive elements and the depletion of ozone layer also contribute to the increased levels of radiation exposure. Radioprotective natural products have particularly received attention for their potential usefulness in counteracting radiation-induced damage because of their reduced toxicity compared with most drugs currently in use. Moreover, radioprotective substances are used as ingredients in cosmetic formulations in order to provide protection against ultraviolet radiation. Over the past few decades, the exploration of marine algae has revealed the presence of radioprotective phytochemicals, such as phlorotannins, polysaccharides, carotenoids and other compounds. With their promising radioprotective effects, marine algae could be a future source for discovering potential radioprotective substances for development as useful in therapeutics.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.109-113
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• 2006

Objectives : In this study, anti-oxidant activity of Taraxacum platycarpum is confirmed to investigate cosmeceutical activity for utilization as a cosmetic ingredients. Methods : In the anti-oxidant and whitening effect experiment, the electron donating ability of Taraxacum platycarpum extracts, their SOD-like activity, and the inhibitory activity of xanthine oxidase, tyrosinase were examined. Results : Radical-scavenging activity of water and ethanol extract was examined using ${\alpha},{\alpha}-diphenyl-{\beta}-picrylhydrazyl$ (DPPH). Water and ethanol extract from Taraxacum platycarpum showed 62.9% and 54.7% at 500 ppm concentration in DPPH radical inhibition, respectively. In the test of superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity, water extract showed 63.4% at 1,000 ppm concentration, while ethanol extract showed 49% at 1,000 ppm concentration. In the test of xanthine oxidase inhibition, ethanol extract showed 66.8% at 1,000 ppm concentration. Tyrosinase inhibition effect related to whitening effect showed 36.3% and 54.2% in ethanol extract and water extract at 1,000 ppm concentration, respectively. Conclusion : According to these results, it is possible that the extract of Taraxacum platycarpum can be used as a new natural material of cosmetic industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.6-22
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• 1999

Chitosan oligosaccharide having physiological activity, such as cell proliferation and wound healing, was prepared by NaNO$_2$ oxidation-NaBH$_4$ reduction from natural chitosan. After deamination by NaNO$_2$ oxidation, the reducing-end residue from NaBH$_4$ was converted to alditol unit, and the reduction was checked by MBTH reagent. The resulting chitosan oligosaccharide had a degree of polymeration of 2-6 from HPLC analysis. From moisture absorption test at relative humidity of 43% and 81%, the moisture absorption ability was 63% and 57%. Moisture retention ability at relative humidity of 43%, silica gel emvironment, was 98% and 97% respectively. Cell proliferation was showed In the range of 0.000032~0.01%, wound healing effect was also appeared in the concentration of 2% and 20%. Antioxidative effect ($SC_{50}$/) was 3213 ppm. Chitosan oligosaccharide was compatible with most of ingredients used in cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.6-16
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• 1998

Ceramides are currently emerging as the major skin care ingredients due to !heir barrier properties in the stratum corneum of the human skin. Thus, major cosmetic companies have developed synthetic ceramide analogs for their own use. In this study, several ceramide mimic compounds , new skin barrier lipids, were designed and synthesized, and their physical and biological properties were investigated to evaluate their skin care capability. Several structures were designed from the variation of hydrophobic alkyl chain and hydrophilic moiety by the use of molecular modeling software. The selected targets were synthesized, and their properties and activities were studied as the pure form, in the emulsion, or in the lamellar mixture containing cholesterol and fatty acid. Some compounds, such as 1,3-bis(N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-palmitoylamino)-2-hydroxypropane, enhanced the restoration of skin barrier damaged by SDS(sodium dodecyl sulfate), and by acetone treatment. The rate of restoration was comparable to that of natural ceramides. The synthesized compounds alleviated SDS induced skin irritation and facilitated lamellar phase liquid crystal formation. The treatment of 1,3-Dis(N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-palmitoylam ino)-2-hyd roxypropane on the acetone damaged skin revealed that the compound promoted the recovery of intercellular lipid lamellar structure of stratum corneum layer. The replacement of palmitoyl groups of the compound with shorter alkyl chain gave lower emulsion viscosity and liquid crystal density, suggesting easier formulation and poorer barrier activity. Most of the synthesized compounds were non-irritable in various toxicological tests proving that they can be safely introduced to the skin care formulations.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.161-169
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• 2021

'Clean beauty' attracts attention with an increasing interest in cosmetics without harmful ingredients as people wear masks in the age of COVID-19. Thus, this study selected and analyzed clean beauty cosmetic brands circulated in Korea on/offline in 2020. This study extracted 36 clean beauty brands and selected 20 suitable brands through an experts' analysis. For an analysis of clean beauty cosmetic brand communication, components: naming, logo, color, package, and website were drawn to conduct a survey. Preferred were the words they come up with when they think of nature or health for naming; wordmarks in a simple form for logo; greenish or yellowish for color; the simple form aligned center on the container body for package; and the images of plants, animals, and humans for website. To sum up the components, utilizing natural, clean, and light images harmoniously, acted as a factor for preferring the clean beauty cosmetic brands.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.37-47
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• 2019

Recently, due to the increase in skin diseases caused by particulate matter, endocrine disruptor and environmental changes, the trend of development of cosmetic materials has been shifting to the more safe and effective ingredients based on natural materials rather than existing synthetic compounds like steroids and antihistamines. This study aimed to develop a new natural cosmetic materials using oriental herbs such as Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus. First, DPPH assay was performed to examine the antioxidative activity of the herbal extract (Mix) and 98.8% DPPH radical scavenging activity was confirmed at $400{\mu}g/mL$ concentration of it. In order to confirm the whitening efficacy of oriental herbal extracts(mix), the amount of melanin synthesized after stimulation of ${\alpha}-MSH$ with B16F10 cells was measured. Results showed that it was decreased to 27.1% comparing with the only ${\alpha}-MSH$ treated group, which confirmed the whitening efficacy. Also, both nitric oxide(NO) production and iNOS and COX-2 expression were significantly reduced in RAW264.7 macrophages activated by LPS in the presence of the extracts(Mix). The mRNA expression of the inflammatory cytokines such as $IL-1{\alpha}$, $IL-1{\beta}$, IL-6, and $TNF-{\alpha}$ was also analyzed to confirm the inhibition effect of the extracts on inflammation. Finally, to confirm the enhancement of skin barrier function, the expression of claudin 1 gene, a tight junction protein, was observed using human keratinocyte HaCaT cells and increased as concentration dependent manner. From these results, it is concluded that the oriental herbal extracts(Mix) containing Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus is effective for antioxidant, anti-inflammation, skin whitening, and skin barrier and thus could be applied as a new natural cosmetic material.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.475-482
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• 2021

Prodigiosins, which are natural tripyrrole red pigments and synthetic derivatives, reportedly have multiple biological effects mainly on various types of cancer cells. However, the effects of bacterial prodigiosin on non-cancerous HaCaT human skin keratinocytes have not been reported. Therefore, the present study aimed to investigate the functional activities of prodigiosin derived from cultures of the bacterium Hahella chejuensis in HaCaT cells. Cell viability, the cell proliferation rate, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in vitro were assayed following treatment of HaCaT cells with prodigiosin. Prodigiosin did not cause cytotoxicity and notably increased proliferation of HaCaT cells. Furthermore, prodigiosin reduced ultraviolet (UV) irradiation-induced ROS production and the inflammatory response in HaCaT cells. More importantly, prodigiosin reduced matrix metalloproteinase-9 expression and increased collagen synthesis in UV-irradiated HaCaT cells, demonstrating that it elicits anti-aging effects. In conclusion, our results reveal that H. chejuensis-derived prodigiosin is a potential natural product to develop functional cosmetic ingredients.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.257-263
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• 2009

In order to search for new whitening cosmetic ingredients from Chinese herbal extracts including Chinese herbs and complex prescriptions from TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine), we screened about 47 TCM extracts collected from China. We tested their inhibitory effects on melanogenesis by using in vitro tyrosinase inhibition assay and B16 melanoma cells. We selected Siphonostegia chinensis and Salvianic miltiorrhiza Bunge. We isolated Danshensu ($\alpha$,3,4-trihydroxybenzenepropanoic acid sodium salt) from Salvianic miltiorrhiza Bunge extract and tested its inhibitory effect on melanin formation in B16-F10 melanoma cells. Danshensu suppressed melanin synthesis up to about 50% at a concentration of $100\;{\mu}g/mL$. Siphonostegia chinensis suppressed melanin synthesis up to about 60% at a concentration of $300\;{\mu}g/mL$. The results showed that these extracts could be used as new natural active ingredients for whitening cosmetics.