• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.87-98
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• 2018

It is widely known that infragravity waves can exert significant influence on wave run-up over beaches. Large run-ups can lead to overwash, flooding and severe coastal erosion. In spite of the importance of infragravity waves in relation to wave run-up and coastal erosion, few studies have been carried out with regard to the impact of infragravity waves on nearshore morphodynamics with respect to eastern beaches in Korea. The purpose of this study is to investigate the importance of infragravity waves in nearshore numerical modelling. For the study, XBeach model was set up to analyze morphodynamics in December 2016, in Ilsan beach which is located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan Metropolitan City. After validation of the XBeach model, numerical experiments were conducted by using various directional spreading coefficients. As the directional spreading coefficients are increased, the effect of infragravity waves is also enhanced by narrowband frequency. With the increasing effect of infragravity waves, the amount of sediment transport is also increased and an erosion dominant pattern is found in the south part of Ilsan beach and a deposition pattern in the north part of the beach mainly due to the wave incident direction of NNE.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to review research trends and issues of coastal geomorphology in general of Korea, which is divided into two periods; the former and later periods of 1990s when The Korean Geomorphological Society was established. In this study, coastal geomorphology in general refers to the landforms except tidal flats and coastal terraces. The descriptive statistics of research papers published in 5 major geography journals since 1990s were computed and these papers were classified according to their main subjects. The methodology for coastal landform study was analyzed by sub-fields of landform change and sediment analysis. The study of coastal geomorphology in Korea started from around 1970s and has progressed significantly in terms of the scope and the number of papers published since 1990s. There is few paper published in 1990s on coastal geomorphology in general, but so many research has achieved and came to be the major part of coastal geomorphology study since 2000s. Further methodology is necessary for morphodynamics study in the future.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.96-102
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• 2014

A three-dimensional beach evolution model was presented to predict morphodynamics around a river mouth. The presented model was based on the depth-averaged (2DH) and quasi three-dimensional (Q-3D) nearshore current modules, and the model took into account shoreline changes, the effect of advection diffusion of suspended load and discharged sediments from the river. First, the 3D beach evolution model was applied to the formation of sand spits and terrace at the river mouth in order to investigate the performance of the model. Secondly, the model was applied to the river mouth at the Ara River, facing the Sea of Japan. The formation of sand spit at the Ara River in winter season was reproduced. The computed result showed qualitatively agreement with field site observation.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.221-233
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• 2000

An intertidal topography is continuously changed due to morphodynamics processes. Detection and measurement of topographic change for a tidal flat is important to make an integrated coastal area management plan as well as to carry out sedimentologic study. The objective of this study is to generate intertidal DEM using leveling data and waterlines extracted from optical and microwave remotely sensed data in a relatively short period. Waterline is defined as the border line between exposed tidal flat and water body. The contour of the terrain height in tidal flat is equivalent to the waterline. One can utilize satellite images to generate intertidal DEM over large areas. Extraction of the waterline in a SAR image is a difficult task to perform partly because of the presence of speckle and partly because of similarity between the signal returned from the sea surface and that from the exposed tidal flat surface or land. Waterlines in SAR intensity and coherence map can effectively be extracted with MSP-RoA edge detector. From multiple images obtained over a range of tide elevation, it is possible to build up a set of heighted waterline within intertidal zone, and then a gridded DEM can be interpolated. We have tested the proposed method over the Gomso Bay, and succeeded in generating intertidal DEM with relatively high accuracy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.206-216
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• 2017

The temporal distribution of the turbulence kinetic energy (TKE) and the vertical component of Reynolds stresses ($-{\bar{u^{\prime}w^{\prime}}}$) was measured during one wave period under high wave energy conditions. The wave data were obtained at Hujeong Beach in the east coast of Korea at January 14~18 of 2017 when an extratropical cyclone was developed in the East Sea. Among the whole thousands of waves measured during the period, hundreds of regular waves that had with similar pattern were selected for the analysis in order to give three representing mean wave patterns using the ensemble average technique. The turbulence properties were then estimated based on the selected wave data. It is interesting to find out that $-{\bar{u^{\prime}w^{\prime}}}$ has one clear peak near the time of flow reversal while TKE has two peaks at the corresponding times of maximum cross-shore velocity magnitudes. The distinguished pattern of Reynolds stress indicates that vertical fluxes of such properties as suspended sediments may be enhanced at the time when the horizontal flow direction is reversed to disturb the flows, supporting the turbulence convection process proposed by Nielsen (1992). The characteristic patterns of turbulence properties are examined using the CADMAS-SURF Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) model. Although the model can reasonably simulate the distribution of TKE pattern, it fails to produce the $-{\bar{u^{\prime}w^{\prime}}}$ peak at the time of flow reversal, which indicates that the application of RANS model is limited in the prediction of some turbulence properties such as Reynolds stresses.