• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.137-145
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• 2004

According to the experimental results, it has been reported by several researchers that the air-permeability values of the fabrics mostly decreased by the mordanting during the dyeing procedure. The exact quantitative information, however, has not been presented so far. In this study, the change of the fabric air-permeability was investigated quantitatively. At the same time, the change of the fabric air-permeability according to the dyeing procedure. In order to investigate the possibility of the detachment of the metal ions on the fiber or fabric surface, the change of the air-permeability was investigated after several rinsing of the mordanted fabrics. By comparing the color differences of the cochineal dyed fabrics which were subjected to rinsing procedure after mordanting, the effect of the rinsing of the mordanted fabrics on the dyeing of fabrics was investigated. At the range of mordant concentration, 2% Cu, 2% Sn, 2% Fe, 2% Cr, 5% Al, the metal ions are not excessively absorbed on the fiber surface. Also, any remarkable detachment of the metal ions does not accompany after the mordanting with the subsequent rinsing procedure.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.462-468
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• 2014

This study investigates the dyeability of soybean protein fabric after dyeing with gallut. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water at $60^{\circ}C$ and 60min. Soybean protein fabric was dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration, temperature and time. After dyeing with gallut solution, dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation. Al, Cu and Fe were employed as a mordanting agents. Various color changing were produced by the interactions of mordants that were different from soybean protein fabric; however, Al mordant was not indicated as a variable color change. Fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Consequently, the dyeability of the soybean protein fabric dyed with gallut showed reasonable results at 100% o.w.f, $90^{\circ}C$, for 60min. Fastness to washing according to concentration indicated good result as more than grade (4-5) in general. Fastness to light was almost the same compared to fastness to washing at all concentrations. Fastness to washing according to mordants indicated good grade (4) in principle at Al, Cu, and Fe; in addition, fastness to light indicated a good grade too. Fastness to light also indicated the highest dyeability at Fe mordant. This study shows that gallut is a reasonable dyestuff to soybean protein fabric and that it is possible to manufacture a variety of products that use soybean protein fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.1-7
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• 2001

Dyeability of Paeonia suffouticosa on to silk fabric in using natural and artificial mordants has been studied. The dyestuff was extracted with methanol. Silk fabric was most suitable condition in 400%(o.w.f.), $80^{\circ}C$, 50min. The K/S was showed higrer mordanting than unmordanting. And with the mordanting, gave good improvements of the K/S values. Surface color of dyed fabrics was various according to the used mordants: the value of mordanted fabrics was dark, Cu mordanted fabric was to be cleared, Fe mordanted fabric was the greatest color difference. The fastness was significantly improved in natural Cu mordant.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.391-398
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• 2007

Ginkgo leaves, which have been known as medical materials, were selected as new natural dyes in this study, in which it was examined whether they have the function of UV-blocker or not. Cotton, linen & Hanji(Korean traditional paper) were dyed with Ginkgo. Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were selected as mordants. UV-blocking rate of dyed samples was measured after dyeing and mordant treatment. The results of this study are as follows. First, most surface color of dyed samples was yellow except that Hanji mordanted with Cu was yellowish red. Second, dyeing repetition had positive correlations with K/S values of cotton ($r=.\;758^{**}$), linen ($r=.\;500^*$) and Hanji ($r=.\;819^{**}$), because K/S values were increased according to dyeing repetition. Third, solar UV-blocking rates had positive correlations with dyeing repetitions (p<0.01), because UV-blocking rates had increased according to dyeing repetition. Fourth, UV-blocking ability of Hanji was highest among samples, as UV-blocking rates of cotton and linen dyed after 3 dyeing repetition were up to 93%, Hanji's values were up to 98%. Therefore, it was proven that Ginkgo extracts used in this experiment as dyestuff have excellent dyeing ability and high UV-blocking ability. It is hoped that this work will lead to further research to confirm the physiological effects when human wear the clothes made from Hanji.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.276-283
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to develop an effective dyeing process for black color on the silk fabrics, using natural Indigo, Madder, Amur cork tree, Alder, Logwood, and Gallnut. All natural dye materials were water-extracted, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Seven different processes were carried out and the color differences(${\Delta}E$) of black color with each process from the chemical black dyed fabric were compared. The light, washing, and rubbing fastness were evaluated. The black dyeing of the silk fabrics was well carried and excellent black color was obtained in every methods. The profound black color could be obtained by the subtractive mixture of the three primary colors of red, yellow, and blue in the order of indigo(blue) - amur cork tree(yellow) - madder or lac(red). Black color was efficiently obtained by iron mordant when logwood or alder fruit was used. The color difference(${\Delta}E$) from the black color with chemical dyestuff was the lowest in the indigo - amur cork tree - lac - iron method. Light fastness and washing fastness were excellent in all dyeing processes, showing grade 5. The fastness to rubbing was excellent as shown grade 5 in the dry samples of logwood - iron process and alder fruit - iron process.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.57-66
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• 2005

In natural dyeing, a number of supplementary methods have been practiced since deep shades of the dyed fabrics are not developed satisfactorily. The methods include using the mordants effectively or subjecting the fabrics to reiterated dyeing processes. In this study, we obtained deep shades in the dyeing of fabrics using Rhusjara ica as the dyestuff and applied chitosan to the fabric specimens in order to diversify the colors. Silk fibers and PET(polyethylene terephthalate) fibers were pretreated using chitosan, and subsequently dyed using different types of mordants. As the mordanting agents, Al, Sn, and Fe were employed. Various shades have been resulted in since the interactions of the mordants are different toward the silk fibers and PET fibers. In this study, we investigated the effect of the chitosan treatment along with the change of the mordanting agents on the color change for the silk and PET fibers.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.79-89
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• 2007

The effect of chitosan treatment on the dyeing and dye fastness, and mechanical properties of hair was investigated in this study when the carotinoid dyestuffs extracted from African Marigold(Tagetes erecta L.) were applied to the hair. The sequences of the chitosan treatment were changed in dyeing and mordanting procedures, i.e., pre-treatment, mid-treatment, and post-treatment. While the effect of chitosan application on the color shade change was not significant, the pre-treatment of the chitosan increased the dye uptake. Discoloration and fading was observed in the lightfastness test when chitosan was mid-treated. Alkali perspiration and acid perspiration fastness test results showed that chitosan post-treatment gave lower tendency. Washing fastness results showed that chitosan post-treatment and mid-treatment gave lower values, which indicates that chitosan deters the direct formation of insoluble complex among fiber-dyestuff-mordant. In the mechanical characteristics results, however, initial modulus and breaking strength increased significantly in the post-treatment and pre-treatment of chitosan.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.166-176
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• 2017

This study is fundamental research on how to be able to scientifically quantify and reproduce a natural dyeing procedure. By dyeing silk fabrics, the establishment of a reproducible dyeing method was sought. Juglans mandshurica has been known as one of the most widely used black vegetable dyes. Repetition conditions and combination dyeing were performed with Juglans mandshurica cortex, gallnut, clove, and Eclipta prostrata L. extracts to express a deep black color. Juglans mandshurica cortex, gallnut, clove, and Eclipta prostrata L. extracts were suitable for black coloration and showed a darker black color when combined with iron mordant. Specifically, Juglans mandshurica cortex and clove can be used for deep black coloring. Color fastness when washed or dry cleaned was found to be strong with a grade of 4-5 and fastness to light was rated at a 3-4. The grade of color change when exposed to rubbing and perspiration was good at a 4-5. In regards to functional property aspects, it showed excellent results with a 99% deodorization rate at 120 minutes of dyeing time, 97.1% UV protection rate, and 85.9% and 62.3% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Streptococcus pneumoniae, respectively. Therefore, it is considered that the extract from the Juglans mandshurica cortex is of great value as an eco-friendly, natural dyestuff.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.27-39
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• 2006

In this study, physical/chemical characteristics of the fabrics dyed using Japanese pagoda tree which is a yellowish dyestuff was investigated. We tried to estimate the dyeing mechanism among fiber macromolecules, mordants, chitosan, and dyestuffs by measuring the change of air-permeability according to the dyeing process. Also wash fastness and light fastness were measured in order to estimate the fastness according to the dyeing characteristics. When the chitosan pre-treatment was introduced, the wash fastness increased significantly in the cotton fabrics while the fastness did not change in the nylon fabrics significantly. The light fastness was not improved by the chitosan treatment. when the antibacterial activity was measured for the dyed cotton fabrics, Japanese pagoda tree itself did not exhibit antibacterial activity. However, chitosan treated dyed fabrics exhibited low antimicrobial activity.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제43권1호
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• pp.36-46
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to manufacture colored Hanji for interior materials by combining color therapy and natural dyeing. To manufacture colored Changhoji for interior materials, seven species of dyestuff were selected as a results of preliminary natural dyeing. As mordants, 0.5% $AlK(SO_4)_2{\cdot}12H_20$ and 0.5% $Cu(CH_3COO)_2{\cdot}H_2O$ solution were used respectively. To estimate natural dyeing properties of Changhoji, the value of $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ and Munsell HV/C were measured by spectrophotometer. The super eight colors produced as follows; red from safflower, orang from goldthread and gardenia, yellow from turmeric, green and turquoise from indigo and pagoda tree flower, violet and magenta from sappanwood, and blue from indigo.