• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.117-130
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• 2010

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of contrast color coordination through the analysis of modern woman fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections' from '04 SS to '09/'10 AW. Data collection of 122 was done through review of '$pr{\hat{e}}t$-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Statistical analysis of frequency and qualitative interpretation of contrast color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were as follows; (1) The combined color type of 'red+blue' and 'yellow+blue' were the most frequently appeared in the same ratio, and followed by 'green+violet', 'red+yellow', 'green+orange', and 'orange+violet'. The contrast tone showed the most, and followed by the similarity and identity, and the type of tone harmony used differently according to the type of contrasting color combination. (2) The general characteristics of contrasting color harmony were as follows,; Some contrasting colors looked harmonious when used light colors and the contrast between light and dull colors which made the hues even more harmonious. Also combinations of dull colors which work well with other dull colors or vivid colors. Light & vivid color or light & dark color, however, often showed too much contrast and using two contrasting vivid colors presented awkward and restless look. When used one vivid color and one dark color, a little easier to looked at, but still not particularly elegance or effectively harmonious. (3) The types of contrasting color harmony showed some differences between seasons. Contrasting color harmony showed more frequently in the S/S collections than in A/W collections.

• 복식
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2004

As Confucian ideology dominated all over the society, the androcentric patriarchical society in the last of Chosun Dynasty produced the unequal power relationship between man and woman. It was traditional hostesses(kisaengs) who uniquely had an occupation among the women in this society. In modern society. they are reinterpreted as 'fashion leaders' or 'professional career women with expert knowledge and it caused a lot of the studies of them to be in a progression vigorously. Therefore this paper studied on the influence of the traditional hostesses(kisaengs) -who were educated and permitted in ther social activity formally in a Confuanism-governed society which forbided a woman to participate in a social activity and which did not gave ladies any formal education. The general hostess in the beginning time of the Chosun Dynasty imitated the hair shape of women in the yangban family which formed the highest class in the Chosun Dyansty and it reflected their aspiration for the highest social class. Howerver, coming into the last age of the chosun dynasty, a reverse phenomenon -that women in the yangban family imitated the general hostesses' hairstyle -occured due to the spread of a genre painting ＆ the concubine system. The general hostesses were educated systematically and did social activity and influenced hair shapes as they were independent economically and their influence in the part of hairstyle appeared as great and high EONJIN MEURI and as one-sided EONJIN MEURI. Regarding-as the result of this study on the influence of the traditional hostess's hair shapes on the ladies hair shapes in the last of Chosun Dynasty -that the traditional hostesse of the last age of chosun dynasty played a role as a fashion leader of the ladies at the same age. the general hostesses in Chosun Dynasty should be revaluated... And the study of ladies which were hidden behind the scenes of Confuanism should be made much more.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.67-81
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• 2009

The culture of each era make their own art, and it is certain a sense of beauty is changed according to a flow of era. We can find an unique beauty in the traditional culture of one era. And it is formed by the local and climatically influences according to their own ethnic character. Furthermore, an unique beauty is became an important element in forming the culture. That is, it is the universality in general. What is important is to develop of one's tradition on the background of the past for the future. This study is focused on the personal ornaments of women's Gache among the Cyubang culture in Chosun era. Throughout the study of clothing design that applies various decorative elements like an ornamental hairpin, a chignon ornament, and ttoljam among the women's Gache, this study is proposed to internationalize of clothing design utilizing the Korean specific character. The concepts of this study are as follows : First, grasp a definition and notion about Gyubang Culture of Chosun Era. Second, consider the definition of ornamental culture and the specific characters and kinds of women's ornaments. Third, analyze the trend and examples in the modern fashion applying women's ornaments. The method of this study included national science and literature, fashion magazines, newspapers, internet, and the research of like materials, with the intent to set a foundation for understanding ornamental design. Throughout these backgrounds, I try to develop and make six modern clothing design that applies women's Gache.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.91-101
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• 2014

String, as clothing material, has played a functional, symbolic and decorative role in garment traditionally. The string has a shape of continuous line, which is one of the basic elements for the design: points, lines and sides. It can effectively represent the silhouette by making our vision flow to a certain direction. This study reinterprets the traditional form of string in a new modern way by developing "Tube-Shaped String" which has an empty hole in the middle. As a creative attempt, the new tube-shaped string can be used for fashion design by applying it to unique shapes, colors, textures, and draping expressions. In a role dimension, this string can become the main fabric material. The methods of the study are as follows. First, it examines the traditional shape and role of string in the history of garment. Second, it studies modern designers, such as Christian Dior, Ann Demeulemeester, Dolce & Gabbana, and 3.1 Phillip Lim, who have applied the string to their design, and have explored the various potentials of the string in the past four years. Finally, based on the theoretical research and practical analysis, this study creates a new tube-shaped string, applying its own technique to fabricating three garments: jacket, dress, and body suit. As a result, each garment shows unique silhouettes, rich texture and color, and rhythmical movement. The unique silhouettes reflect the shape and movement of different bodies. The texture and color are created through the shades of the string which come from the overlapping strips. The garments come with an unbeatable aesthetic design compared to conventional uniform design. As a new material in clothing, this tube-shaped string can be developed to satisfy the public, which has widely varying tastes in fashion.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.257-287
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• 1996

조선후기는 근대 서민 문예의 부흥기로서, 서민문예의 대두와 더불어 일어난 서민계층의 등장은 복식에 있어서의 대중 복식 문화를 부각시키면서 복식의 유행현상이 나타나게 되었다. 이 시기 모든 계층의 여성 복식에서 공통적으로 풍미한 유행사조는 과장된 치마허리 그리고 둔부를 volume감 있게 강조한 치마등을 통해 여체를 드러낸 선정적인 silhouette이 나타났다. 유교 규범에 의해 억제되고 절제된 여성들의 복식행동(clothing behavior)에서 이처럼 육체를 긍정한다는 것은 사회의 일정한 진보단계에 위치한다고 보겠다. 그것은 Eroticism자체는 영원한 인간의 본능에 의존하겠지만, 이 Eroticism을 통하여 어떤 사회적 질곡을 벗어나려고 하는데에 있어서는 그 Eroticism의 발로가 사회적 의의를 가지는 것이다. 그러므로 조선후기의 여성복식에서의 Erotic Mode는 여성들 자신의 것인 동시에 그 사회의 것이며, 그것은 가식적이고 표면적인 유교적 도덕관의 외피 속에 흐르고 있는 인간성의 폭로이고, 그것을 표현할 수 있다는 데에 서민문예의 진보성과 근대성이 있는 것이다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권8호
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• pp.1076-1087
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• 2004

The purpose of the study is to give new aesthetic values of black dress one of the important items in contemporary women＇s fashion. Through the work, to give the new aesthetic characteristics that women really needed can be found. This study was processed by fashion books and articles, literal material with fashion photos which were related fashion trend from 1920 to the present. The results are as follows: In early 20th century, the black dress, which had simple form pursuing function like little black dress. In the middle of the 20th century, elegance and minimalism was represented by black dress, expressed erotic images together with see-through fabrics. In the end of the 20th century, body conscious style of black dress expressed sensual images of women. Modem black dress has design characteristics of the form: simple, close, exposure type and of the materials: matte, transparent and dazzling etc. Simple type emphasizes feminine elegance, while close type and exposure type disclose woman body curve to express erotic images. Matte materials made black dress express feminine elegance while transparent materials and dazzling materials made black dress express erotic and sensual beauty. The aesthetic characteristics of black dress were as followings: Sensualism expresses sexual attractiveness of women-close type and exposure type black dress and see-through materials and dazzling materials made black dress. Simplicity of extreme decoration effects are expressed through black dress having temperate and simple form. Femineity expresses traditional femineity to emphasize chaste, modest and elegant women images-the black dress, which is made of simple form, velvet and satin materials. Modernism combines black colour, which is called modem colour, with simplicity and function factors and pursues simple form. Ascetic practice controls mental and physical desire of the individuals, simple form without decoration covering up woman body and box type silhouette of black dress. Therefore, the study on image of the black dress, which have made appearance at modern fashion, is thought to help develop fashion trends and design, through which modern women express themselves and their beauty.

• 영어영문학
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.565-584
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• 2018

The pedagogical dynamic dramatized in Shaw's Pygmalion, which sets man as a distinct pedagogical authority and woman his subject spawning similarly patterned plays many decades later, has been relatively overlooked in the play's criticism clouded by its predominantly mythical theme. Shaw stages Eliza's pedagogical subordination to Higgins followed by her Nora-esque exit with the declaration, "I'll go and be a teacher." The central premise of this article is that the pioneering modern playwright and feminist's pedagogical rewriting of A Doll's House sets out a historical dialogue between Eliza, a new woman who repositions herself as a teacher renouncing her earlier subordinate pedagogical position that is culturally ascribed to women while threatening to replace her paternal teacher, and her immediate precursors, that is, Victorian women teachers whose professional career was socially "anathematized." Through a historical probe into the social status of Victorian women teachers, the article attempts to align their abortive career with Eliza's new womanly re-appropriation of the profession of teaching. With Pygmalion as the starting point of its query, this article conducts a historical survey on the literary representation of pedagogical women from the mid to late Victorian era to the turn of the century. Reading a wide selection of novels and plays alongside of Pygmalion (1912), such as Jane Eyre (1847), A Doll's House (1879), An Enemy of the People (1882), The Odd Women (1893), and The Importance of Being Earnest (1895), it contextualizes Eliza's resolution to be a teacher within the history of female pedagogy. This historical contextualization of the career choice of one of the earliest new women characters in modern drama helps appraise the historical significance of such choice.

• International Journal of Internet, Broadcasting and Communication
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.366-382
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• 2023

Among the many novels penned by Thomas Hardy, the novel "Tess of the d'Urbervilles" came into print in 1891.In this novel, Hardy portrays Tess who was born and raised in a rural middle-class family but ends up working as a laborer, trapped in a society where she is subjugated by the men's wealth, leading a life marked by loneliness and isolation. The novel presents the status of women, moral struggles, and the challenging fate that they must overcome. It highlights the powerlessness of women living in a structurally unreasonable social environment, forced to depend on the ever-changing twists of destiny. This story delves into the complexities of love between the genders, moral conflicts, and the societal criticism that must be confronted. By utilizing the life of the young woman Tess, it underscores the struggle for existence and elucidates the roles, expectations, and constraints imposed on gender during the Victorian era. This research paper aims to compare the roles of women in the Victorian era in Britain and woman in contemporary Korean society. The Victorian era featured rigid gender norms, confining women to prescribed roles. In contrast, modern Korean society blends tradition and modernity, empowering women to play vital roles and reshape societal norms. Our research explores the interplay of tradition and change, providing a comprehensive understanding of women's evolving roles in both historical and contemporary contexts. We will present our discussions regarding the enduring roles that women have faced in both periods. Furthermore, we aim to highlight the distinctive roles women are called upon to play while dealing with the swift transformations in contemporary Korean society, recognizing them as essential agents in the agents in advancing Korean society.

• 대중서사연구
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.9-54
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• 2019

멜로드라마는 근대 초기 계몽주의 시대에 탄생한 이래 현재까지 다양한 문화와 매체를 넘나들며 유동하고 있다. 따라서 멜로드라마의 분화 원리와 변화의 방향성을 온전하게 파악하기 위해서는 멜로드라마의 형성과정에 대한 발생론적 접근이 필요하다. 이런 점에서 본 논문은 프랑스혁명을 전후한 시점을 중심으로 근대 멜로드라마의 형성과정과 그 미학적 특질을 고찰했다. 18세기 말 19세기 초에 형성된 근대 멜로드라마는 자율적인 시민성을 요구하면서도 시민으로서의 여성을 인정하지 않았던 근대적 상상력의 역설과 프랑스혁명의 정치적 모순이 교차하는 지점에서 탄생됐다. 근대 멜로드라마에 재현된 여성의 희생과 눈물의 미학은 분열과 위기에 처한 사회를 구원하기 위해 여성을 도덕적 도상으로 미화함으로써 타락한 사회를 회복하려는 정치적 열망이며, 여성 배제의 정치에 내포된 성차별적 폭력성을 은폐하기 위한 감정의 조율이었다. 근대 멜로드라마에 재현된 여성의 희생과 눈물의 미학은 오랫동안 도덕적 위선의 연극, 저급한 통속극이라는 부정적인 평가로 일관돼왔다. 그러나 1970년대 '서크멜로'에서 여성과 인종, 계급을 포괄한 '약자의 희생과 눈물의 미학'으로 전환함에 따라 멜로드라마에 대한 학문적 관심이 증폭됐다. 각종 사회문제와 국가적 재난, 전지구적 재앙이 일상화되는 불확실성의 시대로 접어든 현대사회에 이르러 '여성의 희생과 눈물의 미학'은 성차를 넘어서 다종·다양한 희생자 서사로 전환되는 추세이다. 최근 멜로드라마의 이론적 추이에 대한 고찰과 더불어 구체적인 작품 분석에 대한 연구는 후속 과제로 남기고자 한다.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.373-381
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• 1992

Woman in Choson era had various kind of accdssories like rings, ear ring, ornamentak hairpins and so on. Among them their favorite was the Norigae, the pendent trinket. With the embroidered ornament at its center, beads and knots were attached to the upper and lower part, and it was hung with a tassel. It was carried on the string of the Chogori. norigae oreginated in waist string of Three Countries era(Sills, Paekje and Koguryo) ; had been changed with the development of fashion, embroidery and the influence of Buddhistic culture. The differences between Embroidered Norigae and Norigae are following. If the ornament at its center is made of such jewels as gold, silver, jade and the like, it is called Norigae. But if the ornament at its center is made of the embroidered Norigae. Such a Embroidered Norigae in which perfume was contained, was as a perfume box or a perfume bag and was carried on the strings of Chogori by Danjak(single work). The Differences between ancient Embroidered Norigae of late Choson era and modern Embroidered Norigae are Following; 1) The type of main body-the embroidered ornament at its center was mainly embroidered with the shape of animals in both of ancient Embroidered Norigae was usually formes like a bat and that of modern Embroidered Norigae like butterfly. 2) plants were adapted as the main design of ancient Embroidered Norigae, but plants and animals as that of modern Embroidered Norigae. 3) The colors of the background and the design are usually red in both ancient and modern Embroidered norigae. 4) The tassels of ancient Embroidered Norigae were mode in the shape of srick and a strawberry. but the tassels of modern Embroidered Norigae were mainly made in the shape of a stick. 5) Nowadays the beauty of external form is considered more important while the symbol of main body was considered more important in Choson era. 6) The role of Thidon in the composition of Embroidered Norigae is declined and a lot of main bodies are used in modern Embroidered Norigae. 7) Modern Korean people are apt to choose Embroidered Norigae depending upon the design of main body and the traditional Korean beauty. 8) Modern people who desire to get new thing, try to make the design of main body various. As their cognition of Korean tradition is of the increase, the restoration of ancient Embroidered Norigae to its original form has been accom