• Archives of design research
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• v.18 no.4 s.62
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• pp.195-204
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• 2005

This study was peformed to systematize the concept of taste being recognized as new cultural values, as well as to ascertain the looks and aesthetical values presented in modern fashion in terms of taste. Taste is the life style being pursued individually, a preference and the important factor that characterizes each individual among contemporaries. In particular, the fashion is an important means able to differentiate respective tastes. The taste-based looks including; the dandy-look, the kitsch-look, fetish-look, the grotesque-look, and the kidult-look, etc. are reviewed as cases. Those are well expressing the phases of each times. The looks reflecting contemporaries' various tastes, are symbolic means showing the positive expectations on the present and the future. The looks are unifying fashion and society, and the designers are able to be key roles satisfying customer's taste by presenting of their collections. It is expected that the outcome of this study may provide academic basis of the tastes and a framework of interpretation of the tastes and fashion looks within culture by the aesthetical values presented as fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.42-53
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to study doll's symbolism representing our social culture and the characteristics of clothing design. The ball joint doll was selected, that are pretty much resembled to human body in terms of facial expression, body proportion, joint movement, etc. Results of research are summarized as follows: the ball joint doll is indicated a doll whose joints are free to move with a round shaped joint, which originated by Yochilya simon, who adopted German Hans Bellmer's method.'rho ball joint doll, first, there appeared state of human isolation due to the material civilization and industrial revolution, and trend of adhering to one's own world made human possess dolls. Second, according to the doll play became a representing play culture among Kidult culture, dolls, that are resembled with human being, were recognized as personalized objects. Third, along of expanding digital culture that makes easy to exchange information via Internet, so, ball joint doll market is growing fast, for which various levels of mania are being formed. Take a look at the doll fashion in modern society. In accordance to form of Look, it is largely categorized Young Casual look, Office look, Ethnic look and Military look. When take a look at design specialty, young casual look was presented as a comfortable silhouette and also made of elastic materials and expressed vivid bright tones. Office look image was expressed as a suit of jacket with skirt, and cotton wool polyester materials and acro-matic colors. Ethnic look was represented by Japanese traditional dress and Chinese traditional clothing. The Military look was generally emphasized army uniforms of straight silhouette and shoulder straps.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.189-202
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• 1997

Movie is one of the most popular culture ac-tivities in modern society and the composite rt of science and art born in the 20th century. Movie became the great source of setting the fashion. Especially movie costume brought into relief and was accepted by the mass. As a movie stimulates imitation psychology and identification of the general public in fashion. The purpose of this study is to analyze the effects of the movie costume to a modern mass fashion. The times was defined the movies from the early Silent era to the modern Hollywood movie from the late of 1910 to 1990. The way of study were to analyze on the changes and roles of movie costume through documentary records and the influence of set-ting the fashion to the mass fashion and classi-fied it five times-silent era classics neo-classics new look and modern times. The summary of result is as follows, 1, Movie costume affected the dress and the fashion of women is Silent era. That fashion was accelerated by actors' costumes in the mode of 1920. 2. Holloywood movies in the Classics show the essence of the fashion movie costume played a role of a fashion leader and commanded the trend of mass fashion. 3. Practical style was shown because of the war in the Neo-classics. Movie industry was prosperous after the war. But the consequences of the movie costume to the mass fashion were more and more weaken 4. Couture designer's costume had an effect on the mass fashion in the early of New look. But it was behind the fashion for the rise of young fashion. 5. The tastes of the fashion were diversified in Modern times. So the movie fashion was not imitated or popular. The costume of "Pret-a-porter" was used in the movies in the 1980. Spectators became to wear the same style of the actors. The times fashion and movie interacted each other. Movie costume is playing a role of a fashion leader guiding the mass fashion.s fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.122-142
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• 2003

This study examines the meaning of retro phenomenon and its background of establishment that showed in the pop culture. And it finds out the retro phenomena in the domestic fashion trends. And it defines the characteristics of dress and its ornament in the retro phenomena that have shown in the Korean movies since 1998. By doing this, it examines the relationship between movie dress and street fashion while it compares the styles in the 50s 70s with the retro fashion that is currently emerging. The results of the study are as follows. First, the hippie look in the 60s represented a distinctive characteristic of how they rejected traditional lifestyles. Hippie's romantic femininity that showed in the movie of 'Oollala Sisters' received a spotlight as a necessary style in the modern fashion trend. Second, while the funk look in the 70s was a style of disorder and disgust, the movie gives it a possibility of fashion with a converted sense as a vanguard fashion while embracing the funk look. Third, the layered look in the 70s was expressed with layered items, while the current layered look emphasizes layered textiles as shown in the movie of 'Hae-Jeok Became The Disco King'. Fourth, the feminine look which was a symbol of restraint shows a mixed style with delicate feminine items as shown in the movies, 'The Harmonium In My Memory' and 'Ditto'. Fifth, the training look that has two stripes as shown in the movie 'the Friends' is considered as casual wear, which is functional and easy to move at the end of the 20th century. Finally, the romantic images of school look, as shown in the movies 'the Friends' and 'Hae-Jeok Became The Disco King', show a renewed mixed & unique style. This study has its significance in the sense that it verifies the fact that the movie dress does not show the characteristics of the works that momentarily passes the screen, but it becomes a foundation of the future fashion design. At this time that Korean movies are highly developing, a through study on the movie fashion will not only give a direction of future in the modern fashion, but it will also give a developing momentum in the Korean movie dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1288-1300
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• 2006

Glamour in fashion, which stands for attractive physical feature with certain mystique, has been used without accurate analysis thereof. This thesis is purported to provide comprehensive study of glamour in fashion and to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the basis which can be utilized in the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the study on the glamour in fashion, and to conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials. The glamour expressed in the fashion design can be classified into the following six aesthetic values: luxury, excess, masquerade, appropriation, sensuality and decadence. In the modern history, glamour looks in fashion design started out as so-called Blooming Age Glamour Look, dating from the late nineteenth century to the late 1920s, which was represented by luxurious haute couture style of courtesans. Thereafter Golden Age Glamour Look appeared in the movie costumes in the Hollywood from the late 1920s to mid-1950s. Sensuality, decadence and masquerade are the central features. Subsequently, Pop Age Glamour Look appeared with fashion styles of pop stars, which can be characterized by appropriation and excess. In the 1980s and the 1990s, Glamour Renaissance Look appeared as glamour looks which were spread out to people in various classes, which is characterized by luxury and appropriation. Based upon the foregoing historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour derived from Blooming Age Glamour Look, (2) hyperfeminine glamour derived from Golden Age Glamour Look, (3) kitsch glamour derived from Pop Age Glamour Look, and (4) romantic glamour derived from Glamour Renaissance Look.

• Journal of East-Asian Urban History
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• v.1
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• pp.7-24
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• 2019

A. J. Toynbee published a book called Travel to China(1931) after traveling around the Asian continent in 1929. The book mostly focuses on Japan, China and the relationship between the two countries. Toynbee visited major cities in Japan and China by train. Most of the Japanese cities he saw were turning into modern cities in the process of spontaneous modernization mixed with its tradition. On the other hand, Chinese cities that he visited showed him various characteristics, including traditional, colonial, or semi-colonial cities. The modern cities of Japan and China in the late 1920s were transformed into various aspects under the influence of tradition, spontaneous modernization, colonial or anti-colonial modernization. How did Toynbee look at cities in East Asia? How did he recognize the relationship between tradition, modernization and colonization while visiting this area? Toynbee emphasizes the weight and influence of tradition especially in the development of modern cities in Japan and China. So, are modern European cities born out of their own traditions? Modern cities everywhere in the East and West were newly developed under the influence of tradition. Toynbee's attitude, which emphasizes especially its tradition in the modern cities of East Asia, seems to reflect his Orientalistic view.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.20-31
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• 2011

Decentralization is an effort to liberalize people from its character of neutralizing or restraining people while indwelling in the previous thought system. Decentralization in fashion is one of the phenomenon of post-modernism fashion, and it is closely related to de-culturalism, crossover, abolition of rank, and etc, and it is in line with Asian look which includes orientalism fashion. The study intends to consider the Phenomenon of Decentralization of Asian Look and its Method depicted in the western fashion. The study focuses on documentary data, and the it is held with the basis of Asian look shown in western fashion. If ideology which influenced the formation of folk costume of Asia, Asian look is the dissolution of such ideology, and post-modern amusement is substituting it. The most conspicuous characteristic of decentralization phenomena of Asian look is pastiche which is a combination and reallocation of external style of many cultural zones and many folk costumes, and it shows mutual irrelevance, and it is a neutral imitation which has internal meaning and humor disappeared. Also, Asian look shows characteristics of parody and irony, which are reversal characteristics of aesthetic value which is expressed through methods of addition, modification, distortion, exaggeration, inversion, dissolution, and etc. Parody which is expressed through imitation regarding previous style shows effect of humor or satire, but its characteristics show that it expresses respect or admiration regarding the original The method of irony is showing sarcasm with ironical method regarding the peculiar style of Asian folk costume, and it pursues unexpected shock and joy, and it is closely related to orientalism fashion. Expansion and constancy of Asian look reflects the interest regarding folk of Asia and Asia, and it is a movement which intends new attempt by abolishing stereotype, and furthermore, it is expressing liberty of humans.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.392-402
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• 2020

Many modern movies and animations rely heavily on CG (computer graphics). The use of CG has made it possible to produce beyond the limits of visual expression. There has also been an increase in technical and artistic efforts to create new and high quality CGs. Look development is the process of modifying and creating shaders and renderings in 3D to produce CGI (computer-generated imagery) that meets the director's intentions. However, small production or projects may have relatively little or no awareness of look development in the production pipeline. The problems that can occur when look development is not preceded are classified into three categories. first, the shader may react differently under the same lighting conditions. Second, there can be a problem in communication between workers. Third, there is a waste of not promising a look for a given situation. As a way to avoid these problems I studied by creating consistency by the look development system. In the limitation that make it difficult for small studios to do look development because of small workers, time and cost, it is meaningful to study and present a simple look development process that can be carried out by individual or small production.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.777-787
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to consider various characteristics in the graffiti-look in the modem fashion by interpreting meanings and properties of graffiti, transferred from street art to a new main stream in art. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The first characteristic is satire. The graffiti-look conveys directly or indirectly with phrase or symbol various messages of politics, social ideology, wealth and poverty, environmental pollution, anti-war, etc. Body is even more used for graffitiand designers express freely their identity or ideology through the formative style of graffiti. The second characteristic is pleasure. Fantastic expressions from a fairy-tale or fable in the graffiti-look give humor meaning freedom and sense of liberation in a sense of catharsis to the modem people's emotion. The graffiti-look uses graffiti works to introduce its original message of humanism, happiness, humor, etc. to clothing; as a result, the graffiti-look features pleasure. The third characteristic iscommercial application. Brand logo designed by graffiti style is decorated with clothing, accessory, or ornament. This may not only emphasize brand name through lingual function of graffiti, but also be used for a distinctive marketing strategy against other brands. Logo which is regarded motive or pattern of design leaves a image instead of a meaning and performs a design function stressing formative sense.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.171-184
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• 2011

This paper is purposed to clarify that an increase of the matter of concern about men's fashion in the mid-1980s was coincided with rapid change of images for men and diversification within the context of economy, society, culture and to analyze the characteristic of each fashion and the meaning. Findings are as follows: 'New men' played a key role creating and communicating the new male image through the media, as a new masculine appeared in the middle of 1980s. Especially it was spreaded into with British as a center between the generations of young men described as a white-collar worker about the ages from 18 to 35 specifically and appeared by the cultural background in accordance with the spread of consumerism, materialism and post modern feminism and the development of men's fashion. There were 2 types of fashion styles for 'New men' image on the media in the mid-1980s. The First is 'power suit look style' which is self-conscious, including 'corporate formal suit look' and 'soft & sexy suit look'. The Second is 'extravagant body conscious style' which characterize the decolletage and androgynous, including 'tough sports look' and 'sexy skirt look'. Lastly, the 'New men' image means a man as a visible object and a man in the image world.