• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.5
• /
• pp.957-969
• /
• 2011

This study intended to analyze the grunge look as a mode of expression and as a characteristic of the fashion of the 21st century, arguing that the look expressed not only an outward appearance or sub-culture but also a change in our attitude and spirit about contemporary fashion. In the study, I carried out an empirical analysis focused on the collection from 2001S/S to 2010F/W and a literature review. In my results, I classified the grunge look into the following categories: 1. mix and match layering; 2. patchwork, collages, and assemblage using all objects as well as clothing materials; and 3. distressing techniques, such as bleaching and dyeing, unweaving, and tears and holes. I also classified the characteristics of grunge into the following categories: 1. conspicuous destitution, which is intentionally expressed by skillful techniques and craftsmanship, indicating that modern people want to attract attention and be distinguished from others, which reflects an attitude of superiority through ironic fashion choices; 2. high lighting the dissolution of decoration, where destruction, poverty and recombination shown in the grunge look emerged as an artificial and intentional ugly aesthetic in contrast to the existing elegant and sophisticated image; and 3. satire and playfulness, as grunge expresses alienation and conflict in modern society through satire and sarcasm, not attacking or avoiding, but through playful and sarcastic engagement so as to decrease poverty and give temporary freedom.

• Journal of the Korean housing association
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.109-119
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study is to find out how Western modern architecture flowed into Korea in extent of architectural mind after openning the port and what the transformations and architectural characteristics are in the spreading process. Significance of this study can be found as a fundamental work to look into modem architecture in the point of architectural paradigm, the meaning of which is the link between traditional and contemporary architecture through inflow and settling of Western modem architecture in the modern age of Korea.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.4 no.2
• /
• pp.115-123
• /
• 2001

The crossover in fashion refers to the coordination of different items, each with a different atmosphere. In a broad sense, it is the mutual exchange across the existing areas, that is, the creation of a new style by disparate and opposite elements coexisting in a look. This paper studies typical features of the crossover shown in modern fashion based on sub-culture by examining the concept and formation factors of the crossover through social aspects rather than particular art modes to predict the current fashion and suggest a new direction. Crossover fashion appeared in social and cultural environments, has four characteristics : the visual discordance of sexes, the appearance of the lingerie look, the mixture of folk style, and the appearance of the reactionary mode. The crossover, appeared in sub-cultures and diffused into the public, may be considered the creation of a new sense of beauty and a possibility for the future. It is expected to keep expanding ifs range in fashion, since it is an expression of human will to restore liberal sensibility not confined to formality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.44
• /
• pp.153-167
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study was to supply the opportunity of being used as a material which can predict future fashion. This study had been divided the symbolic meaning into three parts. The first part was the symbolic expressions in the materials of modern fashion, and the second part was symbolic meaning which was expressed in the accessories, and the last part was the symbolic meaning which was expressed in the physical ornament. The results could be summarized as follows. First, among the forms of heraldry were expressed in modern Fashion, were such as animals like a lion and eagle, which evoked the powerful and lively mood. A vegetable heraldry was expressed on a pattern of textile fabric to pursue the beauty of dress, represented female and classical beauty. A inanimate object heraldry was included all natural material that didn't have all lives the world, represented the mystery and intensity of nature as using the design that sets off the idea through color and figure. Second, in the case of being the forms of heraldry used as a mark or logo in modern fashion, it was visualized the fashion of traditional sense, marine look and military look. This mark or logo had important characteristics of symbolic in that the product had a special meaning and function by trade mark. Third, tattos were used to heighten the people's union in the various subordinate cultures. By ornamenting their bodies, they expressed their special identity and consciousness. Tattos represented a unique menas, which effected a mood of fashion.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.365-374
• /
• 2003

The purpose of the present study was to improve the artistic qualities in the future fashion design by investigating how the art to wear was applied to the inspiration in the modern fashion design in the late 1990s. For this purpose the present paper examined characteristics in art to wear and their impact on modern fashion design in the late 1990s. Distinguished from the traditional costume, art to wear disregarded a fixed concept on design elements such as the socio-cultural images, materials, and forms. The artists in art to wear freely expressed their "selves" and their individuality to their works in a variety of ways. In fashion design in the late 1990s the creative characteristics of art to wear were reflected in four ways: (1) eco-look, (2) humor, (3) deformation, (4) materials. The present study suggests that the creativity of the art to wear can establish the potentials and possibility in modern fashion design, and art to wear can be a crucial mediator in opening art into the real world.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.5 no.3
• /
• pp.184-203
• /
• 2002

This study considers the fashion as an expressive object of mental value system in order to understand muitivocal value groups. Because the external behavior aspects and internal values of muitivocal value groups are getting more ambiguous in these days. This purposes of this study are as follows; first, this paper examines diversely how these groups affect modern fashion through analysis multivocal value groups after 1990s, and makes clear that various social, cultural, and economical values are important factors for changing symbolic standard connected with fashion. Second, it aims at expanding the positive recognition of the conflicts that exist among various values, and aesthetical recognition that overcome the discrepancy and such conflicts. For this aim, this paper analyzes the social and cultural aspects, aesthetic taste, life style of such groups focusing on Dink, Yiffie, Yettie, Bobos. We examine these groups' characteristics and their effect on modern fashion by categorizing them into Snob Look, Vintage Fashion, Unbalance Fashion, and Caports Look. This paper conducts the previous literature review and the practical analysis on periodical publications and Internet websites concerning fashion. Consequently, this kind of study is useful for providing a theoretical background that would explain the multilateralism in fashion, with uncertain in useful and culture, and changing the obvious confusion to another dimension of order.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.3 no.4
• /
• pp.113-129
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to discover the changes and characteristis of modern knitwears from the 1920's to the 1990's. The result of this study is as follows: The popular knitwears in the 1920's had a simple boxy-line and modern unisex image with a sporty look. The knitwears in the 1930's-1950's had seen more short, feminine detail and texture, fit silhouette with syntheyic fibers. In the 1960's, the knitwears of sporty look and unisex style was popularized by young peaples, and crochet with handkniting by the fiber artists was popularized. In the 1970's-80's, the layered looks and unisex styles of knitwears were popularized by influence of a ecology mood and a woman movemant. And various patterns was developed with the computer machine. The items of outer knitwear was increased by the use of fancy yarns and the knitwears as the total fashion was popularized. In the 1990s, the knitwears had a very forceful characteristics by the mixed style and the technique of design developed into the post-modernism. The key words of the character of the modern knitwears are funtional pursuit, unisex, high value, hightechnique, art. By the change of the life style and the develope of technical innovation, the knitwears will be the key item to leading the fashion in the 21th.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.5
• /
• pp.1061-1074
• /
• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2002.10a
• /
• pp.79-79
• /
• 2002

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.20 no.2
• /
• pp.32-45
• /
• 2016

Outdoor wear, which is typically worn for outdoor activities, has become a style that is worn on a daily basis, much like ordinary clothes, through recent megatrends. There are new approaches to outdoor wear with high-fashion brands and designers recently taking part in the trend. This indicates that outdoor wear has already reached high-fashion, no longer making it just a megatrend or daily fashion. Therefore this study aims to find new features of outdoor looks and designs, through the latest women's ready-to-wear collections from 2014 to 2015. The study will focus on mega collections, which have shown many new approaches, and searches to change and development the present day outdoor look design, by using the word 'outdoor look' which is explained as a 'style' in a broad sense, and using it a general term of 'clothes'. High fashion brands have pursued changing their styles by mixing their designs with outdoor wear's variety, functionality and details; attempting new approaches and challenges. Due to these updated changes, the outdoor look is thriving and becoming part of high fashion. Looking forward to future new approaches and the development of the outdoor look will help catapult this type of 'style' into a new category of modern fashion.