• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.1 s.4
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

The purpose of this thesis is to study the formative characteristics and symbolism shown in Rock stars' hairstyles through rock music to have influenced youth culture. There were a D.A style and a mop top style which included the youth characteristic to seek a new desire and value as the hairstyles of Rock & Roll stars, along with the characteristics of Rock & Roll music to represent the feeling of teenagers in 1950's at that time unlike the previous music due to high beats mixed with Rhythm & Blues (R & B) and Country music, and use of electronic guitars. We can see the desire for challenge and freedom against the then present regime, shouting love and peace, and resistance in the Psychedelic Rock music stars' hairstyle, which are untrimmed and disheveled, that is, natural. We can find explosiveness in Mohican and Spike style of Punk Rock stars playing fierce and aggressive music, along with words including indignation and assertion against the society's regime. The Artistic characteristic is implied in the following hairstyles: Glam Rock stars' hairstyle, a man's long-haired but a little long crew-cut style to reduce the bulky feeling and to give a bisexual, visible shock with hair dyed in orange to emphasize magnificence, and Punk Rock stars' hairstyle showing beauty in their own way with expression of anti-beauty to intentionally look ugly. Like this, the 20th Century's Rock music and youth culture are closely associated each other, and showed a new style, and played a leading role in street fashion, which became a momentum to much influence high fashion as a look of the 20th century modern fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.657-664
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• 2005

Man's search for beauty has been going on from prehistoric time until today, and the pursuit of beauty has been progressing, regardless of the times, as a human psychological desire. In the search for beauty, hair and make-up have been subjects of interest for a long time, but the development of designs for these two aspects are still behind compared to other areas. Therefore, this study aims to propose various new and creative hair and make-up designs and to suggest their possible development. Using existing literature, this paper studied the skin color and hair color of Koreans that had been studied in earlier papers. It also aimed to understand the hair color and hair color images that are suitable for each skin color, classify the modern hair and make-up trends into different images - natural, surrealistic, minimalist, and cyber look, and also analyze them. Actual hair and make-up were also designed based on these images. To depict the natural image, the make-up was made intentionally dark as the skin color; natural materials were used for hair decoration; brown and yellow were used for the eye shadow to express the natural and romantic image of autumn, in general. Second, in the work expressing the surrealistic image, the hair was creatively decorated with a collage of various objects; yellow, green, and red eye shadows and lip expression were used to visually achieve the surrealistic fantasy look. Thirdly, in the work expressing the minimalist image, hair style with bangs without any hair decoration was used; make-up colors were minimized as well, creating a generally simple image. Finally, for the work expressing the cyber image, metallic material decoration was used on a puff-up hair style; the cyber image was emphasized through the use of graphical elements in the make-up.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.135-144
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• 2008

The reason that we are familiar with fashion from the 1950s is because of the work such as New Look done by a french fashion designer, Christian Dior who had taken on an almost mythical significance by his name. Moreover, in the sense of popularity, the appearance of Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, two typical Hollywood actresses who each has directly-opposed image, is the symbol of youthful America of the 1950s and represents the remarkable start of the American fashion. Still, these days designers and mass medias recall the fashion from the 50s remaking and parodying it to suit public's taste. Being due to the World War II, Europe suffered not only the loss of its national tradition and reputation but also got a fatal blow politically and economically. On the other hand, the United States of America occupied a primary position in the world and outstandingly became the most powerful country. The American fashion of the 1950s represents youth and newness and rejects outdated and outmoded style. In this period, appears the indication which announces previously the youth culture. Poodle skirt is the fashion item that acquired popularity among young american women and girls in the late 1950s. In effect, it is the fashion as American as apple pie. A costly A-line skirt had been transformed into a cheap felt skirt. Instead of a real poodle dog which was carried by French women like an accessory, they embroidered a poodle dog on the lower edge of their skirt. As deriding the snobbish gait, they swayed themselves frantically to the rhythm of Rock n' Roll which swept those days. This was an attitude of young Americans against the existing trend of Europe. Poodle skirt showed the free spirit and intention of young people unbound to custom and established vogue. In addition, in the aspect of comprising the American spirit of independent, pioneer, and subjective American people, it goes beyond the bounds of common concept of fad. Poodle skirt is an unique symbol of the 1950s' American fashion which prognosticates the advent of the United States and the success in modern fashion world which was changing after 1950s.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.157-174
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• 2013

This study aims to develop a proper face design for traditional fashion doll so that the Korean traditional doll can achieve its stand in the modern collection with the new face design based on researching documents, analyzing the examples and delivering a customer survey. The majority of dolls in traditional costume has an innocent look with inverted triangle shape face. But the inverted triangle or oval shape as well as the refined look of well balanced facial features are preferred. An oval face, elongated eyes with no double eyelid or inner double eyelid, plump lips and round and high nose are considered beautiful in the traditional figure. Based on this result, a new design is configured with an inverted triangular face with slightly plump cheeks, eyes with reduced eye, pupil and double eyelid, round nose without tuning up and small and full lower lip.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.7-16
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• 2006

What enabled Armany to grow into a world fashion designer is based on two factors : postmodernism of the new spirit of the times and the fashion industry of Italy, his mother country. That is, his capability to connect the spirit of the times with his works and use local advantage for his works led him to be a maestro of fashion circles. Founding on his outstanding ability, he established his own world of unique design, where his philosophy of design remained. This philosophy was a distinctive character from other designers. Since he was founded on this philosophy, his own features that other designers can't imitate are dissolved in his designs. Armany is very suggestive to our design circles which look for globalization of fashion. A fashion designer should look straight at the fact that the final aim of fashion is to satisfy customers who buy it. In addition, he should recognize that understanding customers' demands and developing products with his fashion style in accordance with them are the way to success and study new things continually by setting up the direction of the future based on the recognition. It is essential to cultivate sensitivity to create a new beauty from a basis just like Armany expresses modern women's image by harmonizing rationality and functionality, the existing male features, with female pliability adequately. As well, the analyses of design made by Armany are thought to be helpful in reestablishing fashion design education so that unique design styles may be maintained and future-oriented international fashion products may be produced.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.35-50
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• 2019

Modern family culture manifests various different social phenomenon due to shifts caused by increased societal response to industrialization in our country. It is noted that as our lifestyle patterns have shifted from being work-oriented to family-oriented, by focusing on the trend where there is an increase in families enjoying hobby and leisure activities together and where families go shopping together, I attempted to propose various different family-look' designs. In this research study we designed and planned family normal clothes designs that are required and desired for family gatherings and family events, and these designed were produced using 3D virtual clothing design software technology. The research method used the formative features of natural plants and textiles containing a symbolic motif as an element of design, and the creation of family formal clothes were designed and planned based on the method. The development of family formal clothes designs was implemented using CLO 3D virtual clothing design software. Because utilizing 3D virtual clothing design software enables prototyping various types of designs, silhouettes, fabrics and textiles, and color schemes etc. in a short amount of time, it was possible to utilize an advantage from using the software as leveraged to propose designs with a strong symbolic motif and symbolism . Also, by confirming and examining the strengths and weaknesses of the design process when using CLO 3D, It can improve the utilization of IT technologies, and this study aims to provide that efficiency.

• The Journal of Korean-Japanese National Studies
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• no.32
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• pp.35-68
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• 2017

The map where so-called 'New Religion' of Korea in the Colonial Era is entangled with 'Religion (Christianity, Buddhism, Shindo)' recognized by the Japanese Government General of Korea and nationalism. Accordingly positive research on how religious ideal and ideology in 'New Religion' in Korea was practically applied and practiced in the society is a crucial task. Meanwhile there is survey data representing the status in the long term from 1860s to early 1930s in regard to 'New Religion' of Korea in the Colonial Era. In other words it is 'Pseudo Religion in Joseon' by Murayama Jijun published in 1935. Most part of them are shown through statistics data. In particular he took a look at the distribution of 'Pseudo Religion', ups and downs of religious influence, faith consciousness, its impact and religious ideological movement and social movement. Therefore, if this statistical data could be utilized through quellenkritik, it is thought to have value of significant reference in research on Korea's 'New Religion'. This paper utilizes many statistics included in the survey data among critical review on recognition in Murayama's 'New Religion in Korea' as basic texts. During the procedure this paper seeks to look at the geology of Korean 'New Religion' and attempts basic consideration in the quantitative term related to trend and ups and downs of the groups. Through this basic research I hope that 'public concern of New Religion' in modern Korea and research on re-establishment will move forward.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.613-625
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• 2007

Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.172-183
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• 2014

The term "new woman" (신여성 [Sinyeoseong], 新女性) refers to an idealized image of contemporary women during the so-called modern period in East Asia. In Korea, these "modern girls" were also referred to as modan (毛斷), or "cut-hair", reflecting changes in appearances that rejected the traditional value system in favor of "the new" in everyday life. Although it was used to refer to the perceived educated leaders of this new period, it also had the negative connotation of referring to frivolous women only interested in the latest fashion. The popular discourse on this "new woman" was constantly changing during this early modern period in East Asia, ranging from male-driven women's movements to women-driven liberal and socialist movements. The discourse often included ideals of what constituted female impeccability in women's domestic roles and enlightened views on housekeeping, yet in most cases the "new woman" was also expected to be a good wife and mother as well as a successful career woman. The concept of the "new woman" was also accompanied by an upheaval in women's social roles and their physical boundaries, and resulted in women repositioning themselves in the new society. The new look was a way of constructing their bodies to fit their new roles, and this again was rapidly reproduced in visual media. Newspapers, magazines, and plays had gained immense popularity by this time and provided visual material for the age with covers, advertisements, and illustrations. This research will explore the fashion of the "new woman" through archival resources, specifically magazines published in the 1920s and 1930s. It will investigate how women's appearances and the images they pursued reflected the ideal image of the "new woman." Fashion information providers, trendsetters, and levels of popular acceptance will also be examined in the context of the early stage of the fashion industry in East Asia, including production and distribution. Additionally, as the idea of the "new woman" was a worldwide phenomenon throughout the 19th and early 20th century, the effect of Japanese colonialism on the structure of Korean culture and its role as a cultural mediator will also be considered in how the ideal image of beauty was sought, and whether this was a western, colonial, or national preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.5
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• pp.113-134
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• 2001

This study was carried out with an objective to prepare the framework of conformity for the 21st century modern fashion, which is interactive with mankind, based on a position that the 21st century contemporary fashion with its amalgamating trend of diversified artistic forms may not be elucidated on a standpoint centering on one certain modality. The hybrid fashion trend of historical modality which provides freedom and satisfaction in creation of an individuals expressive power in expressing true desire of mans inside through man-centered thought of the times has made multifarious motives of the past and present fragmentary. It thus extracts inner divisions and the concept of consolidation through three-dimensional form. Modern fashion is newly interpreted by the material and details of high technologies. and is harmonized by mix and match with various expressions. By having it, it is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments. Modern fashion is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments by new interpretations with the material and details of high technologies and by being harmonized with mix and match with various expressions. The hybrid fashion design trend of regional elements formed by stimuli and contacts of diverse local culture by globalization of network that was achieved by scientific technologies of the contemporary information society has disintegrated varied boundaries in the conventional culture by the latest communication technology-new media on the basis of newly created culture. The fact that regional elements could be expressed as if they were interrelated without each being deprived of originality may be explained with an interpretation on pluralism. The hybrid fashion design trend of cultural aspect, which manifests in the background of scientific technological culture as it transcends the societal-cultural boundaries based on the de-centralization theory of Frederic Jameson, has supplemented the imperfect meanings through conversional correlation with other forms and internal program changes. The middle stratal and polyhedral characteristics are seen as each cultural element is dismantled and reassembled by application of 'multiple-time point expression'. Design forming method is not to bring destruction from outside, but to embrace instability and chaos through radical dismantling of the inside. and to pursue diversity and openness. Thus. it is implemented by an approach that takes the role of design process. In communication of discontinuity, continuity was dismantled through forms of mixing, overlap, perversion, insertion and coincidence.