• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.415-443
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• 1994

This thesis, drastically breaking from the prior form of art, searched mutual relationship between surrealism centering around surrealism which tried to liberate the spirit of humanbeing by investigating internal world of the humanbeing. That is to say, it is the purpose of this thesis to study the relationship between artistic trend and costume by grasping how the artistic trend of an age was specifically accepted and expressed to the modern costume as the foundation of fashion. Followings are the searched results for searching mutual relationship of the surrealism and modern costume. At first, surrealism made it possible from modern costume to an expression of formative art, and at the same time emerge from existed uniform costume, and thus presented new possibility to the harmony of costume and art with fresh and avant-garde sense. Second, by being applied the expressing method of depaysement which could materialize surrealistic image to the modern costume from various angels, and thus it suggested new aesthetic conception different from general conception of the traditional costume. Third, with regard to modern costume, introduction of various object due to thought of surrealism was a new and innovative attempt, and thus it suggested infinitive possibility of creation. So, it suggested that we could thrown away a fixed idea and that every objects could be moulded. As the result of the afore-said, wide application of the idea and formative feature of surrealism with regard to modern costume did not only ring the diversification and individualization of the costume escaped from the past traditional idea, but also at the same time prepared modern costume with the moment to develop as a formative arts.

• 복식
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.5-20
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• 2000

This paper aims at analysing the formative character of the Korean Shaman's Costume in the area of Hong -Sung, Choong -Nam. Korean shamanism has been the core of the traditional folk religions. so that it has had a great effect upon the formation of Korean's mind and custom. And its magical power remains unabated even today. Modern shamanism in the Hong-Sung area has been changed under the influence of the shamanism in the Seoul-Koungki area. Therefore modern shaman's costume in the Hong-Sung area is similar to shaman's costume in the Seoul-Koungki area. Modern shaman's costume in the Hong-Sung area has only 5 or 6 kinds. These consist of Pulsajangsam, Chulik, Kugunbok, Mongduri and Wonsam. But there are some differences between modern shaman's costume and traditional costume in the formative character, Modern shaman's costume in the Hong-Sung area has became simpler in the formative character and more gorgeous in color or adornment than that of the traditional costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.52-67
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• 1999

A Study on the Drapery Presented in Costume The purpose of this study is to find esthetic characteristic of a drapery costume throughout Greece costume and modern fashion. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceed. And photos of the drapery costume were analyzed. Drape is the hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment is an important quality to consider indesigning. Fabric falling in folds in the garment as seen on statues of ancient Greece ; most outstanding modern versions made by designer Gres and Vionnet. Greek costume was in drapery types mostly and a feature created the vest esthetic effert on simplicity with ornament of drapery. Grecian were expressed pure beauty and natural beauty throughout their drapery costume. Madame Gres is widely considered one of the most talented greece for inspiration of the couture, ranked by many with Vionnet. They shows in their mastery of Greek draping -el-egance and simplicity- And also, they always implicity emphasized the relationship between clothing and the female body. Therefore drapery costume admired beauty of pure human body Clothing is expressed which wanted to get the nature and human, search for the losed nature of modern men. In conclusion, the characteristic of drapery costume from ancient greece to modern, timeless concerned human\`s lives and recurring humanity.

• 복식
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• 제33권
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• pp.157-173
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• 1997

The Mannerism which was born on Italy in 16th century was the critical trend of art influencing the political economical and psychological trends and was the first mo-dality which respected the individual sense of artist. The cultural situation of that time es-pecially the alienation of men is similar to the pluralism of value the coexistency of conflict the acceptance of heterogeneity and uncer-tainty I modern century. This paper analysed the pattern of change in the trend of Mannerism in modern costume by comparing current trend from the past focus-ing th fact that the over-all situation in this century is similar to that of Mannerism in 16th century. In this paper the author suggests the Defor-mation Ambiguity and Irreglarity as the character of manneristic trend which has re-solved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression. The results of comparing the characteristic of mannerism to the modern costume is followd; 1. The Deformation in modern costume is grossly subdivided to the transfrmation of morphology the transformation of scale and the breakdown of equilibrium 2. The ambiguity in the modern costume can be subdivided to the eclecticistic expression and the ambiguity of spatial concept(between inner and outer garments). 3. The illogiclities in modern costume are the technique of illusion structural illogicality and the collage technique.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.47-55
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• 2003

This study was aimed at analyzing the woman costume presented in the korean modern novel by continuity, mixture, and discontinuity. For the costume analysis, the korean modern novel written from 1910 to 1945 were used. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Continuity: It doesn't mean discontinuity from the past but succession and development of the past, which explains about the costume culture for the period from 1910 to 1919. During this period, people tended to wear korean traditional costume in an effort to maintain their national identity. 2. Mixture: It means the effort to synthesize and develop past, present and future, which explains about the apparel for the period from 1920 to 1937. During this period, western culture was introduced much into korea to be established as part of our people's life. The new generation of women who studied abroad introduced the western costume throughout the cities, while the convenient western costume served to improve korean traditional costume. 3. Discontinuity: It means a conscious departure from the past as well as a critical reaction to the past, which explains about the costume culture for the period from 1938 to 1945. For this period, western costume was popular among new generation of women, while it was more diversified with increasing population wearing them. Many country men and women proceeded to wear the western costume.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제4권
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• pp.221-231
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• 1991

We have thought artistic charactics of modern form is abstract expression and purity and unity sight. Specially, modern sculpture form has strict geometrical form as showed in primitive art. In this circumstances, modern costume has stylized more artistic form in pure sight. Artistic characteristics showed in those collections are picturesque in material and sculpture in shillouette. Picturesque material pointed in decoretive function and simple shillouette pointed in sculpturesque body in modern costume.

• 복식
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.88-96
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to present examples for modern application with traditional color on ceremonial costume of Korean folk belief which is regarded as representative research material standing for Korean cultural archetype. The arrangements of color on the ceremonial costume of Korean folk belief were selected from 11 items specified as an import intangible cultural asset. These color arrangements were composed of fundamental colors from the viewpoint of modern color sensation, but had a excellent harmony in Hue. Therefore, not shifting Hue of color arrangement on ceremonial costume, traditional color arrangement was apply to contemporary it by shifting tone. Brilliant and deep chromatic tone that belong to 3, 4 area was converted into toned light grey, light clear, dark deep, toned dark grey, and greyish chromatic tone that belong to 1, 2 area or 5, 6, 0 area or 2, 7, 9 area. The plan that applies arrangement color with brightness contrast of traditional fundamental colors on a modern color harmony was presented from that. Like this, we can combine traditional color into modern color sensation, stylize and apply it on a production of character, logogram design, fashion design for characters in animation or game. From this, we'll be able to be close to the color arrangement sensation including our racial emotion in the everyday life.

• 복식
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.11-21
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• 2004

This study examined the kinds, shape, technique, and arrangement of pattern for the Korean traditional women costume between 1995 and 2002. The sources used this study were collected from the magazine “HANBOK, ONGOJISHIN, BEAUTIFUL OUR DRESS” Results were as follows 1) In the kinds of pattern, the most pattern of use was the flower pattern, and the geometric pattern showed the trend of increase. these results mean the use of pattern lately is progressed by the new direction. 2) In the shape of pattern, the style shapes were decreased gradually and the geometric shapes were increased. these results show that the modern beauty is chased. 3) In the technique of pattern. the results viewed that the embroidery technique used in the meantime decreased and the JOGAKBO technique increased. 4) In the arrangement of pattern, the modern arrangement was most superior in the most of year. That is estimated the arrangement of pattern have been chased the modern beauty than the others of pattern.

• 복식
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• 제59권9호
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• pp.115-130
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• 2009

A kind of Korean traditional jacket, Baeja, has been a Korean traditional costume equipped with practicality and formative aesthetics from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon Dynasty. Accordingly, the researcher of this study highly valued a modern sense of Baeja with various types of design and forms and attempted to make efforts to apply it into modern life. This study provided a new direction in the modernization work of traditional costumes by creating fashion images newly interpreted corresponding to a modern sense and trend through the application of formative characteristics and noticeable elements via the coordination of traditional Baeja and modern costumes. On the one hand, it would be meaningful in terms of contributing to the activation of traditional Hanbok by providing people with ample opportunities to wear it in modern daily lives variously. On the other hand, the actual purpose of this study was to perform a modernization work for traditional costumes by attempting to conduct a crossover that could let people move into other areas freely, that is, a creative and innovative research associating the area of costume history and that of coordination.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.737-752
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to understand the medieval culture and medieval religious costume by analysing and grasping the formative characteristics of image of medieval religious costume in the modern fashion that were represented to the modern fashion, and also to offer materials to predict the history of fashion in the future by considering the progress of modern fashion and recognizing the fashion to be progress. To examine the image of medieval religious costume in the modern fashion, this thesis divided it into avant-garde image, symbolic image, and mysterious image. These can be summarized as follows. First, in avant-garde image, the harmony between characteristic eroticism and heterogeneous materials are expressed and the formative change of religious costume into general costume are expressed. Second, in symbolic image, the symbolic meanings of the medieval clergy man's costume is expressed in modem fashion while its religious meanings and senses are expressed with symbolic image. Third, in mysterious image, the abundant and profound lights and colors express the mysterious senses of the costume and sanctity applied with mosaic painting and stained glass techniques, utilizing the splendor jewelry, spangle and materials, and most of its image reflects exotic and embellish tendency. As a result, this thesis could be described as follows; Previous religious costume of clergy man was used as a mediator between general devotee and God in ceremony, and it was worn by the general devotee to express devotion. This religious costume was utilized in modem fashion, and it gave the avant-garde image and symbolic image of religion. In addition to it, mysterious image was expressed with exotic and embellish tendency.