• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.8
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• pp.1252-1261
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to grasp the utilization of traditional Korean Patterns used for fashion cultural products. To achieve this purpose, this study examined the range of fashion cultural products through literature review, previous researches, and market surveys and analyzed the situation of fashion cultural products and the kinds, expression methods, expression techniques, and repeat styles of utilized patterns. The analysis results are as follows. First, in the use of traditional pattern, the most frequently-used fashion cultural products were small and inexpensive accessories, followed by fashion apparel, miscellaneous goods, and living cultural goods. Second, the most frequently-used traditional patterns were plant patterns, especially flower patterns. The next frequently-used ones were mixed patterns, especially in the mixture of flower and letter patterns, and $cloisonn\'{e}$ and flower patterns. The next frequently-used traditional patterns were animal patterns(especially butterfly patterns), followed by geometric patterns, lucky omen patterns, and letter patterns. In the expression methods of used patterns, most products except handicrafts preferred simplified patterns to real patterns. Finally, in the expression techniques of traditional patterns, the most frequently used technique was traditional embroidery, followed by the use of weaving fabrics such as fine gauze and brocade which are used for Hanbok. Also, transfer dyeing which is one of printing techniques, DTP(digital textiles printing), a mixed technique which adds embroidery to weaving fabrics, hand-painting, and a gilt technique were used. The results of this study suggest that most fashion cultural products except few designers' works attached weight to some specified patterns and expression techniques regardless of the characteristics of products since there is little understanding of a variety of patterns and are few researches and development on expression techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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• pp.414-424
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• 2005

This study aims to suggest new directions for the development of make-up design by understanding characteristics of deconstruction make-up and to search for new directions and methods in theme expressions and design conceptions by making illustrations with deconstruction themes. This study examines conceptual characteristics of Derrida's deconstruction, and analyzes the various deconstruction make-up styles through the famous fashion magazines such as Beauty Collection, Collections, Fem, Modain, and Vogue since 1997. The make-up illustration works in this study were made depending on these styles. At first, the nature of deconsouction make-up can be explained as deconstruction of existing methods, deconstruction of the sexes and deconstruction of history or ethnicity. The deconstruction of existing methods can be subdivided into decadence make-up, detester make-up, graphic make-up and collage make-up. Deconstruction of the sexes can be explained androgynous make-up. Deconstruction of history or ethnicity is subdivided into white makeup, ancient Egyptian dark eye make-up and raceless make-up. The deconstruction make-up illustrations present infinite possibilities in expression styles through three dimensional expressions and media mixture using not only drawing materials including watercolor, poster-color, and color pencils but also objets including magazines, coarse fabrics, screentone, beads, suede, sand and so on. The study shows that since deconstruction make-up illustrations are not limited to depiction-centered expressions, they serve creating unique images and future inspirations.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.896-909
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• 2005

In need of studies on the kinds and structure of thread, the biggest variable factor in knitwear patterns, this study attempts: to examine the physical properties by thread type to basically establish systematic data in order to utilize various mixture and structure of yarn and to contribute to the development of optical patterns by building a systemic and scientific methods to produce knit wear patterns though a statistical analysis of the relation between the variations and physical properties. The results is as follows: with time, a feature of knit, which causes instability making it difficult to maintain the original shape, related to material properties, the weight and expansibility recovery rate have the greatest influence on the variation of wale lengths, though the amount varies by material. The variation of course contraction is closely related to density, the dense fabrics showing the highest values, due to the bust of the human body, the wale length variation of the front is greater than that of the back, by a regression analysis of material properties and the variations is obtained showing the weight, density and expansibility recovery rate have the greatest influence on the wale extension and course contraction of knit.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.113-123
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to investigate teachers’ recognition in Food/Nutrition, Textile/Clothing part in Home Economics Text Book of Middle School and to provide the basic data for the improvement of its curriculum. 147 Home Economics teachers in Taegu city and Kyungsangbukdo area responded to the questionnaire. The results are summarized as follows: 1. Most of Home Economics teachers have graduated Dept. of Home Economics Education and have ever taken teacher training. And even those who ever taken teacher training are not satisfied with training curriculum contents. Therefore, the result of this study shows that teacher training curriculum contents should be improved so as to be helpful for the actual teaching and learning. 2. In terms of the suitability of contents of food & nutrition and contents of textiles & clothing to the student’s learning development levels, the degree of suitability is in the order of nutrition & health, nutrition in adolescence, food selection, kinds and functions of nutrients in food & nutrition curriculum, and in the order of suitable clothing, mixture rate of fabrics, purchase of clothing, clothing in adolescence, clothing selection. The contents of making processed foods and usage of sewing machine of the existing text book have turned out not to be appropriate. 3. Most teachers suggest that dietary guideline for health, misconception about food & nutrition selection of ready-made suit suitable clothing for situation & character as well as the contents of the existing text book should be included in the new text book.

• Journal of Korean Society of Environmental Engineers
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• v.27 no.9
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• pp.946-951
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• 2005

In this wort plasma treatment was evaluated as an alternative clean desizing technology. Size materials such as PVA(polyvinyl alcohol), PACL(polyacrylic acid esters) and their mixture on PET(polyethylene terephthalate) fabrics were treated by $N_2$ and $O_2$ plasma. $O_2$ plasma was more efficient in size removal than $N_2$ plasma, and the removal of PVA was higher than that of PACL. SEM(scanning emission microscopy) pictures of the plasma treated samples directly proved the disappearance of sizing agents. After $O_2$ plasma treatment, the PET fabrics were subjected to conventional desizing process. Compared with untreated fabrics, the desizing effluent from the treated fabrics gave lower TOC, COD and $BOD_5$ values. This indicates plasma treatment not only serves to directly remove sizing agents but also offered several advantages by changing the chemical properties of sizing agents. Lastly, the effect of plasma desizing process on dyeing was examined using color difference and dyeing fastness tests. The CCM(computer color matching) results showed rotor difference between PET fabric desized by $O_2$ plasma treatment for 20 min and reference PET fabric desized by the conventional wet desizing process was around 1. This suggests the treated PET fabric can be directly subjected to dyeing process without any additional process. The plasma treated fabric also gave a good result of dyeing fastness so that grades of laundering, crocking, heat and light fastness were same or even better than the reference PET fabric did.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.71-81
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• 1986

In order to control the formaldehyde release from D.P. finished fabric, cotton fabric was padded in DMDHEU resin bath containing either $Zn(NO_3)_2$ or $MgCl_2$ catalyst and a form-aldehyde scavenger like Glycerol, Sorbitol, Formamide, Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA, n= 2000) or diols, then dried and cured. The results are as follows : 1. When Lewis acid catalyst like $Zn(NO_3)_2$ or $MgCl_2$ was added in pad bath, the fabric finished with $Zn(NO_3)_2$ catalyst released the lower formaldehyde than with $MgCl_2$. 2. When the effect of pad bath pH was examined with varying the kinds of catalyst and the scavenger, it was found that the pad bath pH influenced on the amount of formaldehyde release and the optimum pad bath pH is at 4.3. Especially, in case of finishing at pad bath pH 4.3 with adding Formamide, the amount of formaldehyde release was decreased by about $45\~$35\%$ with $Zn(NO_3)_2$, while by about $20\~$45\%$ with $MgCl_2$ catalyst. In case of varying the concentration of a scavenger (Formamide), $1\%$ concentration of a scavenger was found to be the optimum level ana the higher the curing temperature up to $180^{\circ}C$, the lesser the amount of formaldehyde release were observed. 3. When the diol was used as scavenger, the amount of formaldehyde release was decreased by about $40\~$50\%$, but the longer the intramolecular length between OH groups, the lessor the amount of decrease of formaldehyde release were observed. 4. When the mixture of scavengers (Formamide and Glycerol) was added in the pad bath, .synergistic effect on formaldehyde release between the two scavengers wasn't observed. 5. The tensile strength of the resin finished fabric was reduced with increasing the pad lath pH and was influenced by the kind of scavengers, and the tensile strength was severely reduced when scavengers, especially Formamide, was added. The wrinkle recovery property is generally improved by resin finish on cotton fabric. When Formamide was added, the wrinkle recovery property is slightly decreased compared with that of the fabrics resin finished without a scavenger, and when polyol was added, the wrinkle recovery property showed almost no change.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.3 s.31
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• pp.286-294
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• 1989

This Study has treated the effects of fiber, surfactants, temperature, surfactant concentration, pH, electrolyte, fatty acid contents and mechanical force on the removal of particulate soil from fabric, vacuum cleaner dirt was used as model particulate soil. The fabrics were soiled with mixture of vacuum cleaner dirt and fatty soil, and washed in Terg-O-tometer. The detergency was evaluated by measuring reflectance of a fabric before and after washing. The results were as follows. 1. The fiber type showed a different pattern of soil removal with surfactants. In general, particulate soil removal increased in the following order Acetate>PET. Nylon>Cotton. Particulate soil removal, which is affected by the surfactant type, increased in the following order NPE $(EO)_{10}\leqq$Soap>SLS>DBS>Tween 80. 2. The influence of temperature on the particulate soil removal was very complex because efficiency of removal was varied with surfactant and fiber types. The washing efficiency of NPE $(EO)_{10}$ was highest at around $40^{\circ}C\;and\;60^{\circ}C$ with cotton and PET but the washing efficiency of DBS was the highest at $60^{\circ}C$ with cotton, decreased monotonously with increasing temperature with PET 3. The detergency of particulate soil increased with increasing surfactant concentration at relatively low concentration and then levelled off above some optimum concentration. 4. The removal of particulate soil increased with increasing pH and mechanical force. 5. Effect of electrolyte on the particulate soil removal was depended on the concentration of the surfactant. At low concentration of surfactant, addition of electrolytes improved soil removal but above the some concentration no effect was observed. At high concentration of surfactant, Vie., $0.6\%$ , the maximum washing effect is reached without added electrolyte. These result indicate that added electrolyte only influence the adsorption of surfactant on the soil and fiber 6. Fatty acid content in the soil did not influence on particulate soil removal without regard to surfactants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.79-93
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• 2013

In the Korean literature, records of systematic gold thread manufacturing such as gold foil(金 箔匠), gold foil bonded with fabrics(付金匠), gold foil bonded with paper materials(金箋紙匠), refining gold(鍊金匠), cutting gold(裁金匠), and making gold thread(絲金匠) can be easily found. We can infer from these literatures that the Korean people used to make gold threads. However, is not existent the gold thread making technique. Thus, a research was done using 67 pieces of gold thread artifacts used in textiles craft of Korea, China and Japan. The purpose of this research was to identify the characteristics of the Korean gold thread by studying the artifacts' form classification, gold foil, glue and the base. First, gold thread is divided into flat gold thread and wrapped gold thread. Wrapped gold thread was made in more various methods such as with a paper on the flat gold thread, metal thread and wrapped gold thread with gold foil on top. Compared to the flat gold thread, wrapped gold thread uses a thread that has a thinner and wider. Through this analysis, even making of the base of the gold threads was different according to the type. Secondly, we looked into the characteristics of materials according to form structure of the gold thread. After analysis of experiment results, we could know that to attach Korean gold thread, glue and the mixture of materials such as Red soil(朱土) was also added. The kinds of the base of gold threads were identified as paper, leather and intestines. Among those materials, for paper, Korea's Dakji, China's Sangpiji(桑皮紙) and Jukji(竹紙) and Japan's Anpiji(雁皮紙) seemed to have all been used, so because of the difference among countries, we can prove that Korea has also produced gold thread. By looking at the research, the base of gold threads and making features hugely vary according to the area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.27-36
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• 1986

The purpose of this study was, to estimate the detergency of commercial detergent and to examine the interrelationship between detergency and detergent characteristics, detergent concentration, fiber characteristics, and Rolling-up phenomenon which is the major removal mechanism of oily soil. A mixture of oleic acid-olive oil was used as oily soil. The detergency was estimated by analysis of oleic acid on cotton ana polyester fabrics before and after washing by means of liquid scintillation counting. The Rolling-up of oily soil from PET film was observed and change of contact angle and removal time were measured. The results were as follows ; 1. In the case of soaps and powder synthetic detergents, the optimum concentrations we-re about $0.2\~0.3\%$. And detergencies of liquid synthetic detergents were considerably low, and the detergency was continually increased up with increasing concentration to $0.5\%$, which seemed to be caused by the lower pH than that of soap and powder synthetic deter-gent solutions. 2. As the effect of external or internal fiber structure; the detergency of cotton was lower than that of polyester. 3. In the observation of Rolling-up, the contact angle increased and the Rolling-up time became shorter with increasing detergent concentrations ($0.05\~0.5\%$). And it was confirmed that detergency was increased with Rolling-up effect. In addition, the study on the actual laundry condition was studied using the questionaire. From the results, about $76\%$ of households used the concentration of detergent roughly or excessively and housewives were highly concerned on the recommended dose, but grade of practice were very low.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.486-492
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• 2017

This study finds surface color and functions of natural dyeing from Chamaecyparis obtusa leaves which help cure skin problems such as atopic dermatitis. This study also seeks to find dyeing properties and functions of natural colorants derived from Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum on silk. Dyeing properties and functions are compared between silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum. The comparison examines the feasibility of developing healthy and high functional fabrics and wellness of fashion merchandises. Silk dyeing with Chamaecyparis obtuse leaves yields yellow and double coloring from Chamaecyparis obtusa; however, Rubia tinctorum yields yellow/red on silks. Silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum show a high level on dry cleaning, ultraviolet protection and deodorization. Especially, the dyed silks from leaves of Chamaecyparis obtusa show a 99.7% antimicrobial effect against staphylococcus aureus ATCC 653B. Silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum are better known for medicinal herb for dermatitis, and natural colorant, Rubia tinctorum does not improve significantly functions compared with silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa. However, the dyeing properties improve by composite dyeing. This implies that ways to maximize effects of tie-dyeing technique could be developed.