• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.55 no.2 s.92
• /
• pp.92-104
• /
• 2005

This study aimed to reveal the concept and background of emergence of black leather jacket that began appearing in full-scale among youth sub-culture from 1950's, and to research its styles and aesthetic features on the basis of that. The researcher has intended to a theoretical frame to recreate black leather jacket which has been developing in youth sub-culture style as a resource of new design in modern fashion trend through this study There are 5 styles of black leather jacket in youth sub-culture after 1950's. Firstly, biker style black leather jacket showed ruined war heroes substituting for military uniform. Secondly, rocker style black leather jacket brought the conversion in definition of masculinity. Thirdly, greaser style black leather jacket showed the beauty of uncleanness expressing resistance and violence with tattered dirty materials and excessive metal ornaments. Fourthly, headbanger style black leather jacket was prominent in various and compound decoration due to combination of rocker and hippie features. fifthly, punk style black leather jacket was influenced greatly by Sex Pistols. There are broadly three ecstatic features oi black leather jacket among youth sub-culture. With regard to displaying terrorism, black leather jacket displayed threatening aspects with black color, formative beauty of inverted triangle, additional decoration, and animal & brutal feelings. Paradoxical trophyism showed Nihilism, disorder, and resistance through black color that symbolize bad luck and unstability, trophyism with bad flavor, tattered material effect, and destructive message painting. Masculine eroticism appeared in accordance with pursuing after pleasure and masculine sexuality through exposure of buttocks and focused penis due to jacket's short length, and fetish of black.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.1 s.100
• /
• pp.44-55
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of man's boots in the Joseon Dynasty and compared them with those of the Ming and Qing Dynasty to find the influential relationships between them. Boots in the Joseon Dynasty are divided into several kinds such as Heukgwejapihwa, Hheuksapihwa(黑斜皮靴), Heukpihwa(黑皮靴), Mokhwa(木靴), Hyeopgeumhwa(挾金靴), Suhwaja (水靴子), Jeonpihwa, Gijahwa(起子靴), and Baekhwa(白靴). In addition, Jeong(精: footwear) was put inside boots. They tend to be named according to their materials or ornaments on them. First, Jeong put inside the boots is regarded as footwear for the comfort of the feet or protection against cold. Mokhwa appears in literature around the 19th century. As shown by remains and paintings of those days, it is considered to have become the common name of boots as it underwent many changes. On the other hand, a book in the era of King Gojong includes pictures of Suhwaja. Compared to Hukpihwa in the same book. The topside seems to have been raised in order to make the wearer who put on a military uniform feel comfortable when walking, since the bottom piece is hard. Baekhwa is worn not only with funeral garments but also with Sibok(時服), one of official uniforms. Boots in the Joseon Dynasty had been made following the design of the Ming Dynasty since official uniforms were conferred upon King Gongmin in the late Koryo Dynasty. But turning the late Joseon Dynasty its detailed design changed little by little. The topside of the boots became more round, the entrance part became wider, height of the shoes became taller, and the bottom piece became parallel to the ground.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.4
• /
• pp.77-93
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the stage costumes of Michael Jackson, and how it was reflected in contemporary fashion. The study reviewed fashion related articles, book, journals, and online fashion sites in order to look at the stage costumes used by Michael Jackson from 1979 to 2001 from 'Off the wall' to 'Invincible'. The study examined the 2001 S/S~2016 S/S seasons of the world's 4 major $pr{\hat{e}}t$-${\acute{a}}$-porte collections to identify cases that used at least two fashion factors of Michael Jackson's style. The study result is as follows: First, Michael Jackson wore black tuxedoes with bow ties, ankle-length pants, white socks, black loafers, arm bands and other various accessories. Second, many of Jackson's fashion traits, such as military style golden embroidery detail and emblems, Brandenburgs, and also appeared in many collections. Third, Jackson's glitter style included spangle and cubic accessories, which were used along with hologram and metallic materials. Accessories, such as cubic gloves and socks, and fedoras were worn with the costume. Lastly, his diverse style, which included fencing shirts, letterman jacket and magic suits, can be found in different forms in modern fashion. Michael Jackson was one of the trendsetters in popular fashion in the 1970s~1990s, and continuously inspires fashion designers in the 21st century. In this aspect, the Michael Jackson style is deemed highly significant in the fashion history.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.44 no.1 s.215
• /
• pp.131-138
• /
• 2006

The yanggwan is a striped headpiece for civil and military officials worn with jebok, a costume for the royal ancestral worship ceremony, or jobok, a ceremonial costume for the courtier. It was called a jegwan when it was worn with a jebok. The geumgwan and jegwan are of the same style but the geumgwan has a gilded band and backside and the jegwan is mostly lacquered. The yanggwan was worn first with the jebok by the officials, both of which were received from the Chinese Ming dynasty in the 19th year of the King Gongmin's reign during the Goryeo period. The royal crown and court clothing system was two grades lower than the standard clothing code of the Ming dynasty of China. In the Joseon dynasty, the oyanggwan worn by the highest grade officials had five-stripes but was later replaced during the Daehan Empire by the seven-striped chilyanggwan used by Ming dynasty officials. Oyanggwans make up the majority of the surviving examples of these headpieces, with the exception of the six-striped yukyanggwan of Chung In-hak (1839-1919), the Minister of Justice, which originated in the Daehan Empire and whose owner is definitively known. The gilt portion of this yukyanggwan is finely engraved in relief with a bird, flower and tendril motif. The yukyanggwan is topped by a decorative bird ornament, called a jeongkkot. EDSS spectrum analysis of the gold plating reveals a composition of 51.32% gold and 10.34% silver. The yanggwan is composed of bamboo, mulberry paper and silk crepe. The black portions are lacquered. The individual yang is made with twisted mulberry paper.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.5
• /
• pp.633-641
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to evaluate a new flight suit in bilateral ways; subjectively and objectively in the improvements of comfort and mobility. Seven healthy males at the age of twenties volunteered in this wearing test. They were over 177 cm in height and 92-95 cm in chest circumference, which satisfies the M95 Special' size described in the Korean Military Specifications and Standards. The subjective satisfaction was evaluated according to the criteria of ease of donning and doffing, fitness of wear, mobility, space between cloth and body, convenience in using restroom. Subjective satisfaction evaluation says that the best improvement of movement are neck circumference, chest breadth, armscye circumference, waist back length, crotch length, crotch height and body rise. According to the evaluation, improvements of mobility were conspicuous especially in parts of body like neck, breast, waist, back, and arms. When evaluating objective satisfaction, we measured a angle difference in a prescribed standard-grid on a photograph that picked up while the subject performed each motion in front of 10 cm-interval grid. As a result, the motion that had angle difference above 5 degrees were arm stretching and standing on single leg holding at forward or at his side. Bending necks and waist, crouching also had angle difference of over 5 degrees. The improvements are discussed from the viewpoint that the increased ease in parts of armscye circumference and crotch in new flight suit pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.30 no.1
• /
• pp.88-101
• /
• 2022

Molybdenum is used in electrical contacts, industrial motors, and transportation materials due to its remarkable ability to resist heat and corrosion. It is also used to flame coat other metals. This study investigated, the thermal characteristics of the molybdenum sputtered material, such as electrical conductivity, and stealth effects on infrared thermal imaging cameras. To this end, molybdenum sputtered samples were prepared by varying the density of the base sample and the type of base materials used. Thereafter, the produced samples were evaluated for their surface state, electrical conductivity, electromagnetic field characteristics, thermal characteristics, stealth effect on infrared thermal imaging cameras, and moisture characteristics. As a result of infrared thermal imaging, the molybdenum layer was directed towards the outside air, and when the sample was a film, it demonstrated a greater stealth effect than the fabric. When the molybdenum layer was directed to the outside air, all of the molybdenum sputtering-treated samples exhibited a lower surface temperature than the "untreated sample." In addition, as a result of confirming electrical properties following the molybdenum sputtering treatment, it was determined that the film exhibited better electrical conductivity than the fabric. All samples that were subjected to molybdenum sputtering exhibited significantly reduced electromagnetic and IR transmission. As a result, the stealth effect on infrared thermal imaging cameras is considered to be a better way of interpreting heat transfer than infrared transmission. These results are expected to have future applications in high-performance smartwear, military uniforms, and medical wear.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
• /
• v.34 no.6
• /
• pp.596-602
• /
• 2023

Chromium-based metal-organic frameworks (MIL-101(Cr)) were synthesized, and their potential use as a filling material for gas masks or protective clothing was assessed through adsorption experiments using diisopropyl methyl phosphate (DIMP) as a simulant for chemical warfare agents. MIL-101(Cr) was prepared using acetic acid (MIL-101(Cr)-A) and sodium hydroxide (MIL-101(Cr)-N) as modulators. The use of acetic acid as a modulator resulted in a larger specific surface area and a higher DIMP adsorption capacity. MIL-101(Cr)-A absorbed approximately 160% of its own weight of moisture when exposed to an environment with a relative humidity of 90% for 10 days, surpassing other adsorbents such as activated carbon. The DIMP adsorption capacity of MIL-101(Cr)-A decreased to about 40% of its initial adsorption capacity after 24 hours of exposure to an environment with a relative humidity of 90%. However, this capacity is still higher compared to that of activated carbon used in commercial gas masks, suggesting a high potential for future use as a filling material for gas masks or protective clothing.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.71-82
• /
• 2016

As times change rapidly the lifestyle, personality, and values of men have changed diversely. Not only have preferences for men's clothing changed, men's fashion market has also grown, and novel, non-preexisting styles have come into place. Also, there are many studies on sensibility of women's fashion while studies on sensibility of men's fashion are insufficient. This study categorized common styles for men in their 20s into 7 different representative samples and investigated consumers' sensibility evaluations for each representative sample. Style 1 (suit), style 2 (rider jacket + skinny pants), style 3 (blouson + straight pants), style 4 (cardigan + half pants), style 5 (military jacket + straight pants), style 6 (loose fit jacket + skinny pants), and style 7 (baseball jumper + straight pants) were prepared in the evaluation questionnaire. The study compared male and female interest and knowledge of men's fashion, evaluated the sensibility difference depending on the men's fashion, analyzed whether there is a difference between preferred men's clothing and actual wearing of the clothing, and examined the preferred style in relation with the lifestyle. The results are as follows: First, men's fashion was diversified and subdivided, and interest and knowledge about men's fashion was greater for males than females. Second, sensibility of men's fashion had significant differences depending on the style, and it did not depend on genders. Third, there was a clear difference between the most favored style by the 20s and the actual style they commonly wear; the favored style and the actual worn style were consistent 66.1% of all the cases, inconsistent 33.9% of those. Style 3 had the highest preference and the actual wearing rate, and style 5 was the least preferred and worn. Fourth, the more extroverted lifestyle rather than introverted one, the more it was likely to prefer diverse styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.55 no.7 s.98
• /
• pp.76-88
• /
• 2005

The aim of this study is to define the concept of the matchless, and its social and cultural origins. I shall also define the different types of Matchless style, the respective characteristics of each style, and the distinguishing features of this style in domestic street fashion. In order to do this, 1 have referred to several published studies and a number of Web-sites of Korean fashion information companies for my research. The results of this study are the following; 1. The concept of matchless is a positive way of self-expression by coordination, created by consumers who attach great importance to their image and to developing their individual style. Also, this concept constitutes a new approach to code which reanalyzes existing styles with a new sensitivity. 2. The social & cultural origins of matchless are the expansion of fear of war and terror, and economic depression, the extension of the 5-day workweek, interest in 'Well-being', and the phenomena of cultural diversity. 3. The types of Matchless are Style Matchless, Theme Matchless, Texture Matchless, Season Matchless, and Complex-Layered Matchless. 4. The distinguishing features of Matchless in street fashion are the distinction of formal & Casual wear's Matchless, the creation of a new Look in Sports & Casual wear's Matchless, the development of a new coordinated, layered look, the immense popularity of Denim, the new fashionable versions of Military style, and the renaissance of the Romantic Feminine Look.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.35 no.1
• /
• pp.389-400
• /
• 1997

Name and change of style of Chopni were inspected to understand transformation of Chosun costume. During Chosun era Chopni had two significant roles(general) daily clothes and Yungbok; prior to the mid-Chosun it was largely used as daily clothes but after the mid-Chosun it was mainly used as Yungbok, In the case of daily clothes Chopni was utilized as under-coat among various coats and had the name of Chopni symbolizing function of clothes. In the case of YUNGBOK it was used as outer clothing of military men had the name of Cholik symbolizing form of clothes. These facts represent that emphasis was placed on beauty in the case of YUNGBOK to confer ceremonial meaning as outer clothes. In transformation of costume examining by change of Chopni we can see that name and style are changed with role of clothes That is when clothes is used as under such as under-coat name and style mainly represent function whereas they mainly represent beauty when used as outer clothes such as YUNGBOK In addition change of role might be considered as an independent variable which changed name and style dependently. That is change of style produced change of name and time lay between change of style and change of name was found to be about 1 centry.