• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.124-136
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• 1995

This study was conducted to find the distinguished pattern of Korean 'Dae'. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to define how the pattern of 'Dae' has been developed and what is the characteristics of the pattern of Korean 'Dae'. The summarized results are as follows; 1. The types of 'Dae'(rock in the nature, a 'Dae' built artificially, a structure) were identified in the era of the three kingdoms. And in the era of the three kingdoms, 'Dae' was regarded as: a mysterious place related with a king, the place where concrete activities of a specific person had occurred in there, and a mountain peak 2. in the era of Koryo , artificial aspect of 'Dae' were emphasized. In addition, the activities occurred in the 'Dae' took concrete shape by kings. 3. The characteristics of the pattern of 'Dae' during Chosen Dynasty are: 1) A type of huge flat rock(27.6%), a type of mounts고 peak and a type of cuff(24.1%), a type of fantastic rock(15.5%), a type of stratified rock(6.9%) were shown 2) The main activities on 'Dae' were play , observation, and rest 3) In the viewpoint of the locational characteristics, 'Dae' were found in the mountains, at the top of the mountain peaks, on high hill, on cliffs, at the riversides, and on the beaches, etc. 4. With consideration on change trend of the number of'Dae' according to literature(time) , the biggest geographical distributions of 'Dae' were shows in Hamkyungdo in noddle of 15th century (Saejongsillockjiriji), in Kangwondo in the middle of 16th century (Sinjeongdonggukyecjiseongram), in Chunrado in middle of 17th century(Donggukyeojiji), and in Kyungsangdo in middle of 18th 19th century(Yeojidoseo, Eubji) 5. Through the whole period of Chosen Dynasty, the geographical distribution of 'Dae' had much in Kyungsangdo and Pyungahndo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.298-310
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was 1) to analize the female figures with potbelly in the nude of the 15th-l6th century, 2) to find out the historic event which made these figures appeared, and 3) to clarify the influence these figures on dress. The results were as follows: 1) There was a sudden decrease in population by the Black Death in the Middle of the fourth century, so supplement of labor was urgent demand at that imp. Childbirth was the only way of supplement of manpower. 2) Therefore, the figure of pregnant woman was regarded as the female figure ideal. The artists depicted this figure ideal in nude. 3) This female figure ideal changed the form of dress. Pillow, pad, and special undergarments were used to make potbelly.

• Journal for History of Mathematics
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.1-21
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• 2007

We investigate the Gou Gu Shu(句股術) in Hong Jung Ha's Gu Il Jib(九一集) and Cho Tae Gu's Ju Su Gwan Gyun(籌書管見) published in the early 18th century. Using a structural approach and Tien Yuan Shu(天元術), Hong has obtained the most advanced results on the subject in Asia. Using Cho's result influenced by the western mathematics introduced in the middle of the 17th century, we study a process of a theoretical approach in Chosun mathematics in the period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.139-166
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• 1998

This dissertation is to help understanding about the emergence of active children's clothes in the latter part of the 18th century in England. In previous ages children had not been look-ed upon as children, but as incomplete and in-ferior men and women, the costume of children had not been distinguishable from that of their elders. The early eighteenth-century chil-d could not play in comfort because they dressed like their parents. But in the third quarther of the eighteenth century children became free from their con-comfortable and became active. English chil-dren's clothes was prevailing even in Europe as well. In the background of this liberation, there were many enlightened ideas, such as philosophers of enlightenment, doctors, writers, educators. Among these John Locke and Jean Jacque Rousseau criticized openly about rampant fashion which was distorting the body by corset and hoop. Rousseau was the one who wrote$\boxDr$Emile$\boxUl$and played the most important role to free children from an old fashioned idea, and emphasized to bring up children by the natural process of mental and physical development as human beings are a part of nature. Fashion reflects politic, economic, social, ideology, culture of the days and these factor function to create fashion which shows“Time Spirit”.Children's clothes, like those of their parents, follow the fashion, but with a difference, the form of which varies with the attitude to the child. Thus this dissertation was to study in relation with the background of the times in the latter part of 18th century in England and Rousseau's Naturalism in connection with the emergence of active children's clothes. The result is that diffusion of the idea of freedom and equality, the growth of bourgeoisie, the development of clothing and tex-tile industry have influenced to the emergence of active children's clothes. Also a great deal of middle and high class parents devoted to their children's education and was influenced by Rousseau's Naturalism. Specially the bourgeoisie who made their fortune by their own effort were eager to educate their achievement and business by their children through education. This factor influenced to the children's clothes as well.

• 기호학연구
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• no.57
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• pp.91-120
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• 2018

This study was contemplated about an aspects of modernity that was discovered of ImcheonByeolgok(林川別曲) written by Okgukjae Lee, Un-young in 18th Century. It was composed time that unprecedented state in the 18th century. So, I considered that Modernity was the most appeared at 18th Century. During this period, Changes has happened in ideology and system in terms of politics, economy, society and culture. This change is the beginning of a new modern consciousness. There is also a tendency to think of Imcheonbyeolgok as the autobiographical story of Lee, Yun-young. It seems that Lee, Yun-young has a progressive scholarly thought, but he did not reveal his own situation by insulting him. Therefore, I am not realistically valid for being able to see it as an autobiographical story that he actually experienced. Also, although ImcheonByeolgok is known as a love song, it is hard to see it as a love song because its satirical features are strong. and It is characterized by the peculiar form of narrative being described as a dialogue. I picked two aspects of modernity in ImcheonByeolgok. One is resistance to love and desire, and the other is disintegration of the order of identity. The two aspects of this paper were presented as Greimas's Actant Model. ImcheonByeolgok is the result of efforts to show the changing modern Joseon Dynasty's elements in the form of resistance and resistance to Joseon's feudal society, such as Confucian ideology and identity systems. Thus, I suggested the corrupt ruling class of Joseon's feudal society and the exploited working class life as an old living and a grandmother instead of 'resistance' and 'disposal' in the 18th century. The criticism of traditional feudal societies that emerged in the 18th century turned out to be a hegemony that distinguishes the Middle Ages from the Modern Age, which resulted in differences between the ages before and after the 18th century. Although these hegemony were not clearly distinguished in household literature in the 18th century, it was established and developed in the 19th century. I suggested that Lim's Star Song was an important work that played an important role in bringing about this change.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.125-142
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• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.32-43
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• 2011

This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.

• Journal of Korean Medical classics
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.25-39
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• 2022

Objectives : This paper analyzes the new Majinhwiseong(麻疹彙成) manuscript discovered in Jeonju. The Majinhwiseong is a medical book specializing in measles co-authored in 1798 by Lee, Won-pung and three doctors from a middle class family. Until recently, the Handok (Korean-German) Medicine Museum copy was known to be the only existing version, but a new manuscript was recently discovered. Methods : The author, bibliography, organization, cited literature, and content of the book were studied. The contents of the Handok Museum of Medicine copy and other manuscripts were compared then reviewed. Results : 1. The book shows that middle class workers in the late 19th century were able to collaborate based on the results of their craft and form strong bonds. 2. The book was being prepared for publication in Pyeongan Gamyeong in December 1798, but failed to be published due to the sudden death of the Pyeongan-do governor. 3. For a correct understanding of this book, it is necessary to study the Handok Medicine Museum edition and the newly discovered manuscript (Jeonju edition) together. Conclusions : The two editions are of a different lineage. The Jeonju edition is overall more specific, while some parts are more detailed in the Handok edition. In conclusion, the Majinhwiseong is a book that was written by middle class doctors of late 18th century whose clinical experience was combined with Chinese medical theories. The book was specifically targeted to professional medical audiences.

• Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.447-470
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to examine how the cultural aspects of the publication of literary collections have been changed from its time throughout the entire Joseon Dynasty. At the royal court in the early Joseon Dynasty, the need for publication of the literary collections has consistently arisen to preserve writings of the noted sages, and the Joseon government was also taking the lead and promoting the publication of the literary collections. From the 16th to the early 18th century, the publication was intensively made at the local governments led by local governors. From the 17th to the early to middle of the 18th century, the finances of local governments were limited with the changed taxation system, and there had been a dramatic decrease in the number of literary publication projects. On the other hand, with the sudden increase of the number of Seowons during the reign of King Sukjong, the focus of the literary publication was moved to Seowon from the 18th to the 19th century. After the enforcement of the Seowon Abolition Decree, the collections were still published at Seowons, however from the end of 19th century, the publication of literary collections had been explosively made by aristocrats who did not belong to the institution of Seowon or could not receive Seowon's support, which spreaded over the entire Yangban culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.15-23
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• 2007

In the Middle Ages it was customary to cover up the hair, but the Renaissance brought uncovered coiffures with the revival of humanism. In those days, silk and linen veil, ribbon, string of pearl used for covering, wrapping round with the hair. During the Baroque period, the style of hair was to pursue the beauty of imbalance in form, reflecting the atmosphere of the time. Hurluberlu and Fontanges hairstyles were in fashion. Then in the Rococo period, huge, resplendent coiffures of exquisite beauty were invented as a symbol of power, and these modes of hairdo were a dominant force in the culture of personal adornment of that time. Pouf and enfant hairstyles were in fashion. As a reaction against the extravagance of the proceding modes, late 18th and early 19th centuries brought revival of simpler hairstyles of ancient Greece and Rome by the influence of neoclassicism. The latter half of the 1820's onwards saw he reappearance of voluminous coiffures as well as an enormous variation of knots with combinations of false knots and chignons. Late 19th through early 20th centuries was the period of beautifully waved hair, the style of which was an integration of Marcel waves and Art Nouveau. The 20th century saw the epoch-making invention of permanent waves using electricity. Concurrently, with an increasing participation of women in social affairs since pre-and post-World War I periods, as well as with Art Deco in full flourish, bobbed hair was created in pursuit of lightness and nimbleness, quickly showing the change of women's modes of life. Hair fashions thoroughly embody the aesthetic sense of each period, reflecting the landscape of contemporary society.