• Journal of architectural history
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to comprehend the assignment and the procurement method of wood works' craftsman through the Salleung-dogamuigwes in royal tombs constructions in the late Joseon period. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. First, Carpenter and other nine craftsmen were introduced in carpentry works. The craftsmen were put in by occupation to maintain the quality of the government building construction by wood processing area. It was distinguished by frame member, Sujangjae, window framing wood, decorative member. Second, sawyer showed a sharp increase in the latter half of the 18th century and declined since the middle of the 19th century. This is closely related to the increase in demand for building materials and the growth of civilian wood products. As a maximum of 300 people have been assigned to the craftsmen in the woodwork, it can be seen that the work has been divided by the process. Third, the national carpenter was difficult to procure from the 17th century to the beginning of the 18th century. From the middle 18th century, the system procuring national carpenter was stabilized. In the 19th century, the input ratio of the national craftsmen seems to have decreased significantly and seems to have kept it at the minimum level. Forth, sawyer were procured through Seongonggam from the late 18th century through the mid 19th century. That means that the role of the sawyer had become important. Since Jogakjang is not a necessary manpower, it usually has civilian artisans.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.218-230
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• 2012

The 25 pieces of women's jogori worn by ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) that are preserved in Yeoju Museum, Gyeounggi Province, Korea were examined in this study. The aim of this study is to analyze women's jogori that were excavated from the grave of Changryung Jo's family, and to characterize women's costumes around the middle $18^{th}$ Century. The size of the jogori was divided into two groups. The garment length of the first group ranged from 31cm to 34cm and the bigger size ranged from 36.5cm to 40cm. The number of jogori in the group with the smaller size was twenty-five pieces and five pieces for the group with the bigger size. Changryung Jo's jogori was composed of two pieces of padded jogori, four pieces of quilted jogori and nineteen pieces of double layer jogori. Even though the direction of the margin located on back seemed point toward the right hand side, the gorum, the string for the tie, and the Sup, the outer gore of the jogori located on the other side of the margin had no pattern of direction. The line of jogori from the armhole gets narrower toward the edge of sleeves which could be recognized as a typical pattern of the middle $18^{th}$ Century jugori. The bigger group of jogori seemed to be worn by people other than ChangRyung Jo's relatives and used to be a gifts to aid in funerals. Major characteristics of jogori is could be categorized into the Dangko Mokpan collar jogori and Samhaejang jogori. The results of this study helps set the relative dating for the women's jogori of middle $18^{th}$ Century where not much excavations have been made.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.205-216
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• 2000

The purpose of study examined of historical changes of western men's nightclothes from middle ages to the modern ages and analyzed functions and features of men's nightclothes. This study presented meaning and importance of men's nightclothes. The method of study researched the many literatures and internet sources. Until medieval age, men slept naked or in a day-shirt. In the 16th century, a nightshirt was worn in bed. A night-cap was usual, in rather more elaborate form, also worn by day in the house, and even outdoors. In the 17th century, nightshirt was elabrated with ruffles and lace. The nightshirts of 18th century, resembled the day-shirt except that it was slightly longer and fuller in cut. The turn of 19th century, men weared nightshirt with a high folding collar, one button and night-cap of jellybag shape. In the early 19th century, nightshirt had a plain turned-down collar, buttoned at the neck. A night-cap with colored tassel was usual. The middle of 19th century, a nightgown was reaching to the ankle. Pyjamas, in the 1890s, were steadily replacing the nightshirt, before long pyjamas had become generally accepted in place of the nightshirt. A pyjamas which preseverved his male dignity by giving him trousers. Man's ingenuity also modified his nigntclothes so that these took on sexual characteristic. In 20th century, the fabrics had become lighter in weight, and the choice of materials wider. By 1930s, nightclothes had become the man's most colorful garment.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.15-26
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• 2018

As a result of reviewing various documents and existing researches, since the late Goryeo period, the most active period in the Ondol(溫突, Korean floor heating system) facilities is the 17th century. The phenomenological reason was recovering the buildings destroyed by the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592(壬辰倭亂) & the Manchu War of 1636(丙子胡亂), but the underlying cause was an abnormal climate in which a pair of summer and winter cold continued. In the 17th century, as the Ondol facilities grew rapidly without distinction between regions and classes, the supply and demand of fuel caused economic and natural environmental problems. And a negative and positive view on Ondol was suggested. Since the middle of the 18th century, when the demand and supply of Ondol reached its peak, which could no longer increase, a new awareness of Ondol began to grow. The room was called the Panbang(板房) and the Ondol, depending on the material that made up the floor. It was considered natural to have the Ondol from this time on. The Incan(因間) and Jo(竈) that were made to burn were started to be recorded as a kitchen, regardless of size and function. Changes in social awareness of Ondol have led to concerns about heating efficiency. A variety of architectural explorations were conducted. Such a search was later realized in concrete architectural form. There is a double Ondoll structure, and the column spacing is reduced compared to the previous one. The heat buffer space is formed around the Ondol room, and the double window can control the light and the air going in and out.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.140-159
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• 1994

Heraldry, which originated from the culture of knights in the 12th century, came to be drawn on shields, and was inherited as a symbol of the family at the end of the 12th century and developed rapidly through the 13th and 14th century. Afterwards heraldry was in great vogue and used in the shields, clothes of men and women, armors, housings and flags. Therefore the citizen class as well as nobles and knights came to possess heraldry. In particular parti-color and impaled coat were accepted in the clothes, and served the dual purpose of status symbol and ornament in the 13th century. It can be said that the appearance of heraldry on the clothes was typical of the Middle Ages. The origin, generally accepted, was that the crusaders wore the surcots, also known as the cyclases, on the armors to prevent the powerful sun of Syria and dust of deserts, and to prevent the armors from rusting due to moisture. As the surcot was made of white linen or white silk till the beginning of the 13th century, knight's heraldry came to be put on the surcot in order to identify each corps. According as the coat of mail covering all the body was devised, the same heraldry attached on the shield seemed to appear on the clothes of surcot or jupon(afterwards pourpoint) in order to identify the status in the battlefield and tournament. Heraldry, a system of mark in the 12th century, was used as a symbol of authority of the upper class such as the Royal House, nobles and knights, and may have been mysterious instruments in the Milddle Ages. However, in the modern times of the 20th century heraldry has come to be a kind of symbol marks such as badges and banners symbolizing the hallmark of the goods of enterprises, organizations and groups. Heraldry, existing up to now, of the individuals as well as international organizations can be seen as a result of deep-rooted tradition for esthetic appreciation and symbolism for heraldry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.55-65
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• 2002

The eighteenth century in Great Britain was the period of transformation, Great Britain externally experienced several wars intermittently mid internally transformed into the industrial country in the course of the 18th century. British shipowners were faced with short of seamen mainly due to several wars and expansion of shipping tonnage British shipowners tried to solve the mooing problem by decreasing the number of seamen from 22-23 sailors per ship of 100 tonnage in 1710's to 5 in 1810 and increasing seamen's wage from shillings per common seaman per month in the 17th century to 25 shillings in the middle of the 18th century and equation omitted during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. What caused and resulted by specialized shipowners to cope with changeable market situation with flexibility was decrease of the number of seamen per ship and increase of wage.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.115-125
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• 2007

A hat is a general term for what human beings wear on their heads in order to protect them from the cold or heat, to be used for ornament, or to symbolize social position. A hat represents the position of a man who wears it, attitude toward the society, and faith for a religion for males. Since men's hats can create their image and uniqueness in casual wear from current fashion items, they are proposed as a fashion accessory item of designers each season. The purpose of this study is to review hats, which are part of costume, in a more analytic method. The research range of this study is hats for men in the upper class in the 17th to 18th centuries from the history of costume when diverse periodic and characteristic costume changes occurred. In the 17th to 18th centuries in the middle of the Chosun Dynasty, changes in costume occurred as the feudal society of the dynasty had been dissolved since the Japanese invasion in 1592. Political power was established in France as the Baroque Age began in the 17th century. Since European costume, especially women's costume led fashion in France, the country represented the age better than any other countries. Aristocratic costume in the Rococo Age of the 18th century was changed to completely different shape of costume after the French Revolution. In this regard, this age was deemed to be the most appropriate for the comparison or costume. Another purpose of this study is to review the common and different features of periodic factors that affect changes in costume by researching the hats of the two countries in the same age in order to understand relation between periodic characteristics and costume throughout history of costume.

• Journal of Families and Better Life
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• v.24 no.1 s.79
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• pp.287-297
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the traditional American houses in eighteen century and their specific styles at the historic pace of Deerfield. The results of this study were as follow: First, Village of Deerfield is founded by Henry Flynt and PVMA(Pocumtuck Valley Memorial Association). Their preservation and restoration has been achieved from the efforts of collection constantly and the concrete research of old houses. So, It should be reflected their way of approach to preserve and restore for old houses in Korea. Second, the traditional eighteen century houses in Deerfield had generally Colonial Style. Style of Colonial houses had a "L"shape exterior view and a flat facade and the front door made a symmetry with sash windows. A chimney had been installed in the middle of the roof and it usually had a gable with natural materials in a simple manner. Third, the most important factor to design houses was a front door and it had been decorated in luxury and in a display. Lastly, the traditional American houses in eighteen century had been greatly influenced not by the that of British which is commonly taken but by the various cultural backgrounds which represented regional characteristics and was rather simple.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.7-18
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• 2017

This research focuses on the cadastre and cartographic tradition regarding the representation of Rome that had lasted until the middle of 18th Century. Since the early period of Roman Republic until the early 18th Century, map was considered as a effective medium to record the status of urban facts and also a manifestation of changing perception of reality. These facts allow to diagnose social and conventional changes that had occurred in the field of representation techniques and methodologies derived from diverse intention and objective in elaboration of each map. Cartography also has affinity to architectural drawing as many categories of individuals are involved, clients, researchers, craftsmen, publisher and collectors. Fundamental task of documenting the contemporary physical reality was given to the map, however, as architects had practiced through the drawings, cartographers also reconstruct in subjective way specific buildings and urban aspects according to various needs and demands. As such, philology and imagination play important role as two constitute extreme poles in the evolution of the cadastre. Through analysis of paradigmatic examples in the genealogy of cartography of Rome, it was possible to understand the changing episteme that testify the mentality and custom in the field of visual representation.