• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the result of a market research on men's jacket in their age of 25 to 35, who wear fitted jackets most, and to examine the comparative analysis of pattern and the wearing evaluation between classic jacket and fitted jacket. The results are as follows; Firstly, according to the results of a market research, 32.0% of the target owned fitted jackets, and 28.7% expressed their desire to buy only fitted jackets. This means their concern and preference for fitted jacket with which they could show up young, fresh and slim look are as high as those for classic jacket. Secondly, classic jacket showed the higher value than fitted jacket in such items as chest girth, waist girth, hip girth, sleeve's hem girth, jacket length, shoulder length, side seam length, and across shoulder point length. On the other hand, fitted jacket showed the higher value than classic jacket in back armhole length, front length, collar point length and sleeve's vent length. Thirdly, classic jacket was larger than fitted jacket in 1/2 chest girth(1.0cm), 1/2 waist girth(2.0cm), 1/2 hip girth(1.0cm), back width(0.5cm), front width(0.5cm) and side width(1.0cm). However, fitted jacket was higher than classic jacket in the armhole depth(0.5). Fourthly, the results of appearance evaluation revealed that there was a significant difference in 6 items. In other words, classic jacket was evaluated more appropriate than fitted jacket in such items as back width, back length, back neck depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. And the fitted jacket had a higher value than the classic jacket in shoulder angle item. Fifthly, In the functional evaluation, fitted jacket was evaluated more uncomfortable than classic jacket. And this means that fitted jacket doesn't have a proper ease amount in each part and it has a high armhole depth compared to classic jacket. Therefore, for more comfortable patternmaking of fitted jackets, it would be required a pattern design which reflect men's own shoulder lines and women designers' flexibility that will satisfy both appearance and function.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.996-1003
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• 2015

This study aims to examine the effects of the cutting amount at the waistline on the jacket appearance evaluation and movement functionality, and to suggest a proper waistline cutting amount when designing the men's casual jacket for those in their 30's. The researchers prepared 4 kinds of experimental jackets varying the waistline cutting amount: 0.0cm, 0.5cm, 1.0cm, and 1.5cm. The results of the study are as follows: Regarding the front view appearance, the jacket with the 0.5cm cutting amount achieved the highest score (6 out of 9). On the side view and the back view, there was no meaningful difference. However, the jacket with 0.5cm cutting amount achieved the highest score (4 out of 5). On the other hand, on the movement functionality, there was small statistical difference; the 1.5cm experimental jacket received the highest score in the most areas. This is resulted because if the cutting amount was increased, equally with the V-zone area which gives room for movements. This result showed the difference from the previous research of men in their 20’s,where 0.0cm achieved the highest test score for both appearance and movement functionality. Therefore, this study suggests using the 0.5cm and 1.5cm for the waistline cutting amount; for the jacket appearance 0.5cm is the best while the 1.5cm is better for the movement.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.40-47
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• 2006

Three-dimensional body scanners were used for years in the clothing manufacturing fields. The 3D body surface provide essential data to draft patterns for mass customization, virtual fit model, and computerized patternmaking systems. This research proposed the methods of drafting patterns for men's jacket by using three dimensional body scan data. Eight male subjects were scanned, the surface data was flattened. The differentials of the flattened body surface and the jacket draft were measured, and analyzed the regressions. To verify the fit of the patterns, the jacket was constructed by the regression formulae and tested by experts. The fit of the jacket were significantly improved rather than a ready-made suit especially the shoulder areas. This means that the methods that we proposed were good to improve the fit of the garments and could be used effectively to implement mass customization strategies in the apparel retail industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.616-625
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• 2009

With suffering financial crisis in 1997, Korea's fashion market has grown in the direction that satisfies the reasonable price and diverse consumer's sensitivity and needs. The aim of this study is to examine whether the cutting portion in the waist line is surely necessary for designing the jacket pattern in men's wear, by closely examining the effects of the cutting portion in the waist line on the external appearance and functionality given designing the jacket pattern in men's wear for the standard body type in 20s. The results of the study are as follows. As a result of evaluating the external appearance, when having evaluated by dividing into 14 items such as the whole surface, the side, and the back side, the experimental clothing, which wasn't cut the waist line, obtained the highest mark in 13 items and, the significant difference was indicated in 10 items except 4 items. As a result of evaluating performance, the experimental clothing, which wasn't cut the waist line, obtained the highest mark in 13 items among 25 items in the total. Next, the cutting portion in the waist line obtained the highest mark in 10 items for the experimental clothing with opening in 1.0cm. The next was indicated to be in order of the experimental clothing with 1.5cm and the experimental clothing with 0.5cm. Given seeing the above result, the cutting portion in the waist line given designing the jacket pattern for the standard body type in 20s could be known that the experimental clothing with the most excellent mark in the evaluation of performance was all the experimental clothing with 0.0cm whose waist line wasn't cut.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.738-755
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for the production of jackets with high fit by comparing and analyzing the adhesive and non-adhesive production methods of men's jackets. An analysis of the manufacturing method showcased differences between the adhesive and non-adhesive manufacturing methods in the cutting and wick attachment method, the shape and attachment method of the chest reinforcing wick, the sleeve attachment method, and the shoulder pad and sleeve reinforcing cloth attachment method. In evaluating the outfit, the overall fit of the shoulder, the fit of the chest, and the fit of the armpit were found to be high in the non-adhesive production method. In evaluating appearance evaluation, the front shoulder, chest, and sleeve overall appearance showed a high non-adhesive production method. Therefore, in order to increase the wearability of the shoulder pad and the the attachment method of the upper sleeve reinforcing cloth, the non-adhesive production method should be used, and in order to increase the overall wearability and armpit wear of the chest, the difference in the attachment method, and the reinforcement method of the armhole should be used. In addition, to increase the appearance of the jacket, non-adhesive production methods such as differences in wick attachment methods, shoulder pads, sleeve reinforcing cloth, and sleeve attachment methods should be used.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.79-90
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• 2000

The purpose of this research is to offer basic data for the study of men's suit by investigating the preference of design and form for men's suits. For data collection, a questionnaire was composed stymie of suits, form of lapel and vent of suits etc‥‥ The subjects of this research were male aged 20-59 and resided in Seoul and the capital region. The results of the research are summarized as the following: 1. Most men tend to prefer a set of suits rather than combination and formal style rather than casual or character style. And most of men like a little enough fittiness of suits. 2. Most men tend to prefer single-breasted jacket rather than double-breasted one. they also tend to prefer notched lapel and no vent jacket, especially men who work in sale, office and an independent enterprise. 3. Men who aged 20-40 tend to prefer classical pants, and one who aged 50 like wide pants. They also tend to prefer pants with pleats rather than one with darts. 4. Most men tend to prefer plain cloth rather than check, stripe pattem, and they tend to select blue and black color as their suits.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.51-66
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• 2010

This study aimed to analyze the changing characteristics between Men's Gender Role and Men's wear Design in 20th century. To analyze the representative Men' Gender roles, the related studies and literatures reviewed. Literature reviews and quantitative studies were performed to analyze the changing differences of Korean Men's wear Deign as a symbolic factors of gender role. The results of study are as follows. 1) The representative men's gender roles in 1900's~1920's were 'Patriarchal/ Stern Man'. The narrow V-zone of jacket and shoulder, high shirt collars and well fitted suits expressed the stern images of that times. 2) In 1930's~50's, 'Enervated/ Escapist Man' were the representative images. They were expressed with wide lapels and shoulders, emphasized V-zone and abundant trousers. Especially 40's style was under the influence of American 'Zoot Style'. 3) The representative gender roles were the men of 'Producer/Provider' in 60's~70's. Shortened jacket, wide lapels & neckties, slim trousers were used to express the strong & young images of Producer/ Provider during the industrialization era. 4) The representative gender roles were 'Attentive/ Intellectual/ Beautiful Men' in 80's~90's. The exaggerated round shoulders which were influenced by 'Big Look', and easy silhouette were related with the attentive images.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.934-950
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• 2018

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men's tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer's movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer's activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.59-72
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• 2014

This study provides the structural design for commercialization of outdoor breathable waterproof jackets for men merged with solar cells to enable emergency communications, utilizing wearable devices to develop smart clothing and extend convenience in everyday life. The most popular waterproof jacket with two-layer and three-layer moisture-permeable waterproof fabric was selected, based on previous studies of functional outdoor jackets and style with affinity to fashion. Flexible solar films suitable for clothing were embedded in the lining of the sleeve area and hood visor, and printed film was developed to balance weight and design. High performance smart solar jackets have application to expanding the use of smart phones for everyday and emergency communication, and leisure and outdoor sports activities, as well as day-to-day functions as a waterproof breathable outdoor jacket for men. It is also eco-friendly. Satisfying both the aesthetic and practical, a solar cell jacket with smart features, is an innovative tool for use in a variety of outdoor activities, and a fashion-forward commercialized product.