• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.762-770
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine of the flower patterned fabrics used for the Shrouds during 15~18th century in Chosun Dynasty. The Shrouds at that time could be classified by the garments for the dead(殮襲衣) and the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具). And we looked into the types and the compounding methods of the flower pattern used for the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具) as well as the Shrouds accounting to the uses. Results of this study are as follows. 1) The flower patterned fabrics weaved as the uses of the garments for the dead(殮襲衣), item by item, were divided into the upper garment, the lower garment and men's Po(coat). 2) Seeing Jeogori, mixed various flower patterned fabrics, among the upper garment, there were focused on the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. 3) The flower patterns in men's Po(coat) were used a lot in Jangui and Dahnryoung. Cheollik, Dappo, Jeonbok, etc made of the flower patterned fabrics, were of small number but we can feel an aesthetic sense of men at that time. 4) The flower patterned fabrics weaved the lower garments, were used much more in the skirts than in the trousers, for reasons of the wrapping a dead body. 5) Seeing the flower pattern used the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具), the pattern of Lotus and Arabesque, among the types of flower pattern, had a majority.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.59-72
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to establish objective data for marketing of industries and product development design by researching popular singer fashion of Korea, investigating the preference for popular singer design in street fashion among adolescents on the basis of the research, and drawing an conclusion. To analyze street fashion, total 190 young men and women in their 20s, including teenagers, were surveyed mainly in downtowns around Daehakro, Gangnam and Hongik University. First, in relation to the upper garment, men were found to wear T-shirts and hood T-shirts the most, while women were found to wear T-shirts and one-piece dress the most. Second, in relation to the lower garment, the ratio of those who wore skinny clothes was high both among men and women. Third, in relation to the outer apparel, the ratio of men who wore casual jacket and hood zip-up was high, while the ratio of women who wore tailored jacket and leather jacket was high. Fourth, in relation to shoes, the ratio of men who wore sports shoes was high, while the ratio of women who wore heeled-shoe was high. Fifth, it was found that plane pattern was preferred the most. As it was stated above, the findings of this study on the effect of entertainers' fashion on adolescents through street fashion indicated that the number of adolescents who imitate the fashion of entertainers increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.247-257
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop men's garment sizing system, based on the anthropometric measurements called 'SizeKorea', which was surveyed between 2003 and 2004. The number of the survey subjects was 3,215 of males, who were from 18 to 69 years old. In the results, body types were assorted by drops, consisting of 4 upper body types and 2 lower body types. Height, chest, waist and hip were selected as the key dimensions of sizing system and the intervals of them were decided on statistical analysis of key dimensions, size intervals of ready-to wear clothes and sizing systems of other countries. In the results, older group or shorter height group had less differences between chest and waist as well as between waist and hip, but younger group and taller group had more differences. The size intervals for fitted jacket and coat were 3cm in chest and waist, while the intervals for fitted pants were 2cm in waist and hip. The intervals for not-fitted clothes were 5cm in chest, waist and hip, which 5 cm interval of height were applied, in all cases.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.142-154
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• 2003

This study was conducted on the costume of the 6 minorities dwelling in Guizhou Province of China. The result of the study is summarized as follows. As Guizhou Province yields much silver, most of the minorities used silver ornaments a lot and dyed their garments by using indigo extracted from plants that grow in the area. The headdress was of style that for both men and women a long cloth is wound around a head in various ways. In some cases, women used cow's horn, pearl and silver ornaments. Most wore a short upper garment such as blouses with overlapping necks or blouses with diagonal on the front, and as a lower garment men and women wore trousers and skirts, respectively. As a way of ornament, embroidering, wax printing and weaving were commonly used, but pattern and color used in the ornament varied depending on the individual minorities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.49-65
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• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.137-144
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to provide basic data for the development of a prototype of a garment that allows middle aged men to look idealized by examining the type of perception of middle aged men based on their subjective evaluation and their characteristics. This study used the Q methodology, which is a subjective research method that finds correlations among middle aged men across subjective attributes. The types of perception of body shape of middle aged men were analyzed as three types: leaning forward shape with bird legs, developed upper body shape with thick legs, protruding abdomen obesity body shape. The leaning forward shape with bird legs was recognized as the lowest in the BMI index, and the shoulder and chest were sagging, legs were thinner than the body and leaned forward. And that the hip were protruding and had a flat rectangular shape. Developed upper body shape with thick legs was the second overweight type of BMI index. It was recognized that the ankle and calf thighs were thick and the upper abdomen protruded upper body development body. Protruding abdomen obesity body shape was the most obese type with BMI index. In this type, the height was the smallest, and the upper abdomen came out and the abdomen protruded, and the abdomen was more exuded than the chest, and the neck was thick and the hips were recognized as the big body. The middle aged men's recognitive body shape was classified as a similar to actual body shape. However, in the recognition type, the frontal and side body types were mixed and classified. It is necessary to study the ergonomic pattern considering the features of each body type. This suggests that psychological effects can be obtained that allow the body shape that changes with age to be accepted more positively.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.327-335
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• 2007

As the digital environment gets ubiquitous, domestic and international research and development on smart clothing is being conducted actively these days. However, most research is being carried out with its center on upper garment. So research on lower garment is insufficient even though it affects wearer's activity and comfort to a great extent when digital devices are attached or wearers moves their body. Therefore, the type of clothes this research proposes is men's formal pants which have an electrically-vibrating wearable device. These are smart pants which are helpful in easing muscle pain with their massaging effect in daily life. For this purpose, this research intends to develop patterns considering the body shapes and movements of wearers and suggest a tentative structure plan for smart pants where a vibration device is attached, which is mainly composed of vibrating motor, controller, and switch, and considered their bulks, numbers, attaching places.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.204-220
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• 2007

The background of Korean Ethnical Costume was originated from those northern mounted nomadic groups, which was Scythe style Costume Culture. Through the antique records and paintings of tombs bequests hereby describe the forms of Scythian Cotume (1) Headgear : There was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap, and Crown. (2) Clothes : Both Men and Women wore Jacket as upper garment with leftsided collars, narrow sleeves to the length of the hip line. As lower garment, they wore the tight Trousers and Kungo(:窮袴)that was attached with gusset. (3) Belts and Boots : On the upper garment bound the leather Belts that was hanged a hook that was shaped of animal form at the end. Scythian Buckles was divided into six groups, animal-shaped, animal's head shaped, animal fight-shaped, rectangle-shaped, rectangle openwork-shaped, genre scene shaped Buckle. To the Boots, they wore leather boots. (4) Ornaments : Ornaments divided into Dress Trimming(:Gold plaques), Earrings, Necklaces(;Torques), Bracelets, Rings. Scythian Gold Plaques were divided into several types according to the shape, animal style(curved beast shape, profile shape, head reversed over its back shape), round shape, quadrilateral form, star shape, flower shape, crescent shape, bundle shape, human appearance. Earrings consisted of a plain ring and pendant ring was a middle ornament hung from it to a pendants which hung was made of heart shaped leaves of the tree, beads-linked. Scythian Torques were divided into several types according to the shape, Torque with Terminal style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crescent-shaped pectoral style, Crown style. Scythian Bracelet were divided into 4 styles according to the shape, Bracelets with ends shaped like beasts style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crown with openwork style. Rings were rhomb-shaped and animal shaped styleRings (5) Animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many times the motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Magical use of symbols may have been inten-ded to guarantee the power of the aggressor.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.