• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.1 s.139
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• pp.157-166
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to establish the upper garment sizing systems for elderly men. These were on the basis of classification of 294 elderly men's somatotypes aged between 60 and 80 with the extent of drop value and analysis of the sizing systems of men's wear companies. The results were as follows: First, the sizing systems of men's wear companies were established with priority given to the young and the middle whose heights were taller than the elderly. There was no sizing system only for elderly men in men's wear companies. Secondly, as the height range increased, the size of chest and waist proportionally increased; however, the waist sizes were limited to somewhat small size ranges. So the sizing systems of men's wear companies had difficulty in covering up the developed-waist somatotype of the elderly. Thirdly, only 1 company out of 10 established the sizing system according to the somatotype. Lastly, the total numbers of size which were established by this study according to somatotype were 40; 18 sizes were set for type A, 10 for type Y, and 12 for type B. The standard sizes were 97-88-165 for type A,94-79-165 for type Y, and 97-94-165 for type B.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.103-113
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• 2002

Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.477-486
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• 2010

This study aims at establishing a sizing system required for producing ready-made clothes which can fit the body shape of disabled men using wheelchair. It measured the bodies of 178 adult men using wheelchair and compared the sizing system of German adult men using wheelchair (1984) with KS system(KS K0050, 2004) in order to establish standards of the sizing system. AS a result, in terms of classification of body shapes, KS system cover more types of disabled men's body shapes and especially, A types (Drop 15.6) showed the widest coverage with 32%. In classification of heights, the widest range of height was 170 cm, and Korean men's four sizes between 158 cm and 176 cm covers 88.2% of disabled men's body shape. For chest size, 91.1% of disabled men's chest sizes were included in seven sizes, which are 4 cm intervals between 88 cm and 112 cm with 100 cm standard. In consideration of the ranges of height and chest, the general sizes (A types; 11 sizes, B types; 3 sizes, Y types; 5 sizes) are selected to present the standardized measurements. Basic parts of the upper garment sizing system for disabled men using wheelchair were height-chest-waist size.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-78
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to compare the style of clothing by type of the Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe based on the examination of the literature centered on the historical relationship between Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe. The research results are as follows. First, it was found that both the apparels of Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe had hemp cloth with the V-neckline with the blocked front part and hemp cloth with the open front that is worn by overlapping the straight collars of the upper garment. Both men and women wore the garment of the straight line collar that is worn by folding towards the left or right, or upper garment of the round shaped collar. Women wore an upper garment with short sleeves on top of the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes while men wore pants for the lower garment, and women wore skirt and apron with triangular cloth decoration on top of the skirt. Second, Goguryeo Anak Tomb No. 3 mural painting(year 357) shows that apparel worn by the lady who is the wife of the owner of the tomb is similar to the apparel worn by the lady in the lacquer painting for folding screen of the Sima Jinlong Tomb ancient painting on the woman of chaste reputation in terms of the form and structure.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.84-113
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to provide for some basic data useful to production of the apparels fit and measured well for the Chinese men. For this purpose, Chinese men's apparel measurements and specifications were determined per area group(Beijing and Shanghai) according to the Men's Wear Specifications (GB/T 1335.1-1997), National Standards of People's Republic of China. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of dividing the Chinese men into Beijing and Shanghai men and thereby, setting stature and upper chest circumference for upper garments and stature and waist for lower garments. 2. As a result of analyzing the correlational distributions of stature and upper chest circumference measurements by region (Beijing and Shanghai) and type of physique, it was found that the coverage rate of the selected sizes was higher in Shanghai sample than Beijing sample in case of the sample with thicker waist circumferences. 3. As a results of analyzing the correlations according to the three-fold classifications of stature /upper chest circumference/waist for garment specifications by region (Beijing and Shanghai) and type of physique, "A" type was most covered, followed by "B", "C" and "Y" types.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.73-87
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• 2018

As men in their 30s are spending more money on clothing, it is becoming increasingly important to first conduct an anthropometric study and then develop garment patterns accommodating the changes found in body sizes and types of men in their 30s, in order to effectively address their fit dissatisfaction. Thus this study aims to explore changes in upper body sizes and body types of men in their 30s, which provide basic measurements for designing major garment items including jackets and shirts. To this purpose, key anthropometric dimensions of the upper body of men in their 30s, taken from the 6th (2015) and 7th (2016) surveys conducted by Size Korea, were analyzed using SPSS 24.0 for Windows. Independent sample t-tests were conducted on major upper body sizes to track changes with measuring time. Factor and cluster analyses were used to classify body types. By comparing the two surveys, it was found that the overall body sizes of men in their 30s were increasing in height-related items, circumference, thickness, and width, -as well as body weight and BMIs. Upper body height-related items, in particular, showed a higher average value in the 6th survey than in the 7th, indicating that the overall body types of men are becoming "westernized" with longer legs and shorter torso. Finally, five factors were derived to determine the typical upper body types of men in their 30s and the body types were classified into three categories according to the cluster analysis. First, those with a relatively small build with short stature and torso. Second, those with the highest stature and vertical dimension with the smallest torso volume and least body fatness. Third, those with the biggest torso volume and most body fatness with bigger width between armpits and shoulders. The distributional pattern analysis showed that men in their 30s tend to have increasingly higher stature but lower body weight and BMIs than in the past, implying that their body types are becoming close to those of men in their 20s.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to provide for some basic data useful to production of the apparels fit and measured well for the Chinese men. For this purpose, Chinese men's apparel measurements and specifications were determined per area group(Beijing/ Shanghai) according to the Men's Wear Specifications (GB/T 1335.1-1997), National Standards of People's Republic of China. The collected data were statistically processed using SAS 6.12 for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis, factor analysis, group-wise analysis and ANOVA. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of dividing the Chinese men into Beijing and Shanghai men and thereby, setting height and upper chest circumference for upper garments and height and waist for lower garments. 2. Analyzing the correlations according to the three-fold classifications of height/upper chest circumference/waist for garment specifications, 17 specifications based on heights and upper chest circumferences for Beijing men's upper garments could be designed within the deviation level of 2%, while 15 specifications based on waist measurements could be designed (between $70{\sim}98cm$) for their lower garments within the deviation level of 4%. Thus, a total of 60 combinations of the specifications could be obtained. 3. 16 specifications based on heights and upper chest circumferences for Shanghai men's upper garments could be designed within the deviation level of 2%, while 16 specifications based on waist measurements could be designed (between $68{\sim}98cm$) for their lower garments within the deviation level of 3%. Thus, a total of 56 combinations of the specifications could be obtained. For other reference measurements, grading measures were set for each type and body part, while the average measures of major body parts were calculated.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.19-29
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• 2003

The 3D measurement data expected be useful to give appropriate garment fit and development of MTM(Made-to-Measure) CAD software. The researcher surveyed the need and use of national anthropometric data of the apparel industry. 17 Korean apparel manufacturers participated in the study. The need of anthropometric data at 5 different apparel business sectors was measured: men's suit, women's dress, casual-wear, underwear, and active sportswear. The result of the survey shows that height and bust, waist, hip circumferences are needed by all of the business sectors. The body measurements at the scye and upper arm area were need most by the men's suit manufacturers. The women's foundation garment manufacturers were well prepared for the use of the 3D body scan data and they expected the potential benefits of 3D body scan data would be great. The researcher also conducted a case study and found a pro and con of the using 3D body scan data for apparel product developing process. In the current stage of technical advance, a reasonable method was required to get nude like scan data for the women's foundation garment manufacturer. The researcher concluded that the apparel designer could use the 3D scan data for developing tremendous style garment design and pattern making.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.76-90
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• 2010

Gwa-du(裹肚), name of a garment, appears often from documentary records of Joseon Dynasty. It is assumed as one of the upper garments for men, and according to the record, it was worn as a set with Dan-ryung(團領), Dap-ho(搭胡), Chul-rik(帖裏), Han-sam(汗衫), pants and socks. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in the 17th century, it changes to a shape of wrapping clothes with straps at four corners, and used to cover the stomach of a corpse like sash. From 16th-17th century, before the Japanese Invasion of Korea, the excavated costume shows a clothing which takes a role of Jegori, longer than Han-sam(汗衫) and shorter than Po(袍). In this study, this clothing is called Gwa-du(裹肚). This study examined the usage and shape of Kwa-du from some documentary records- "朝鮮王朝實錄-The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", "禮書- Book of Manners", "宮中件記- Googjoonghalkee, recording court goods and commodities lists" and more with actual clothing. Kwa-du is presumed to have changed to men's Jegori So-chang-ui(小氅衣) after 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.588-596
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• 2010

This study suggest the size designation and standard nude size in relation to upper and lower garments for casual clothing brands targeting men aged 25 to 34. The nude size designation of upper garments was set at intervals of 5cm based on the bust (97cm). The clothing industry has used different nude size and designations; therefore, the following measurements were established to correspond to each other: bust 87cm- designation 90, bust 92cm- designation 95, bust 97 cm-designation 100, bust 102cm- designation 105, and bust 107cm- designation 110. The nude size designation of lower garments was set at intervals of 2cm based on the waist circumference (omphalion) and the nude size; the clothing designations were used equally. In addition, the standard nude size for upper and lower garments was set at intervals of bust (97cm) and of waist circumference (82cm), respectively, in order to suggest a detailed size.