• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.585-590
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• 2006

In the variation of physical properties of adhesive fabrics, the objective of this study is to analyze fitness of fusible interlining to four sorts of fabrics for men's suit with various structural parameters. Four fusible interlinings are used for adhering to fabrics for men's suit. Mechanical properties of these 16 adhesive fabrics fused with these interlinings are measured by KES-FB system for analysing appearance and wearing properties of garments and for examining the fitness of fusible interlining to the fabrics for men's suit. The variation of bending property for adhesive fabrics are found to be higher in the order of interlining 1(Cotton30/Rayon70, plain), interlining 2(Polyester30/Rayon70, warp knit), interlining 4(Polyester, shingosen fabrics with drawing textured yarn) and interlining 3(Polyester, double dot coating interlining). The variation of adhesive effect shows the same results with bending property and shows negative relation with extensibility in weft direction per extensibility in warp direction(EM2/EM1). The variation of peel strength of adhesive fabrics, woolen fabrics in the case of face fabrics and interlining 3 in the case of interlining shows the largest value respectively.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.609-616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the difference of judge's gender and age groups in preference of S/S men's suit fabrics, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the texture by gender and age group. For this study, 60 types of S/S men's suit fabrics were used with variously-composed fibers, such as wool, wool-blended, and PET, thickness, and weight. To evaluate the texture and the preference subjectively, nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 22 texture adjectives and preference of 4 apparel items were developed, Through the factor analysis, texture adjectives were classified into 7 categories: "stiffness," "elasticity," "bulkiness," "coolness," "smoothness," and "drapability." Depending on gender and age groups of judges, statistically significant differences on texture factors and the preference were observed. Especially, men under 30 years of age showed a higher grade of stiffness and a lower preference on pants than other groups. The relationship between the texture and the preference was different by gender and age group: Women evaluated a preference of men's suit fabrics in relation to stiffness and smoothness, whereas men did so in relation to stiffness, smoothness, coolness, and drapability. A young age group put more importance on drapability for preference of men's suit fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권12호
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• pp.1723-1729
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• 2006

드레이프성은 직물의 최종용도를 결정하는데 매우 중요한 요소이다. 본 연구에서는 남녀 수트직물의 드레이프 특성을 분석하여 수트직물로서의 선호도와의 관계를 연구하였다. 본 연구에 사용된 직물은 남자 수트직물 중 봄/여름 용 60가지, 가을/겨울 용 60가지, 여자 수트직물 중 봄/여름 용 70가지, 가을/겨울 용 142가지로 총 332종류를 사용하여 이들의 주관적 인 태, 수트직물로서의 선호도를 조사하였다. 주관적인 태는 자체 개발한 9점 척도의 질문지를 사용하여 측정하였으며 이 때 7점 척도를 사용하여 직물선호도도 함께 조사하였다. 주관적 인 태는 질문지를 구성하는 20개의 태표현 형용사를 요인분석을 통하여 용도에 따라 5가지의 요인으로 표현하였다. 용도에 따른 수트직물의 드레이프 특성을 분석하기 위하여 직물의 드레이프성을 Cusick 드레이프 측정기를 사용하여 측정하였다. 드레이프계수, 굴곡수, 굴곡의 높이, 굴곡의 파장 등을 측정하여 통계적으로 분석하였다. 이러한 드레이프 특성치들의 계절에 따른 차이와 남자와 여자직물의 차이를 살펴보았다. 남녀 수트직물 모두에서 드레이프성은 태 표현 요인으로 나타났으며 여성용 수트직물에서는 직물선호도와 관계가 있는 것으로 나타났다. 여성 춘하용 직물에서는 선호되는 직물과 선호되지 않는 직물간에 드레이프 계수에 통계적 인 유의한 차이는 없었으나 굴곡수와 굴곡의 파장에는 차이가 있어 드레이프의 형태에는 차이가 있었다. 여성 추동직물에서는 선호되는 직물의 드레이프 계수가 0.6-0.7로 너무 부드럽거나 뻣뻣한 직물은 선호하지 않는 것으로 나타났다. 남자의 수트직물에서는 주관적인 태를 나타내는 주요요인으로 추동직물에서는 드레이프성이 추출되었으나 춘하직물에서는 추출되지 않았다. 추동직물에서 선호되는 직물과 선호되지 않는 직물간에 측정된 드레이프특성에 차이가 나타나지 않아 소비자들이 느끼는 드레이프성을 좀더 민감하게 대변할수 있는 드레이프 측정 방법의 개발이 필요하다. 계절에 따른 차이로 남녀 모두에서 유의한 차이가 나타났으며 드레이프 계수는 여성춘하직물이 가장 높아 0.72였으며 남성 추동> 남성 춘하> 여성 추동의 순으로 감소하였다. 굴곡의 높이도 드레이프 계수와 같은 경향을 나타냈다. 남성복에서는 춘하직물이 추동직물보다 드레이프성이 좋았으며 여성복은 반대의 경향을 나타냈다. 남녀 직물간에도 차이가 있어 춘하직물은 남성 수트직물이 여성직물에 비하여 드레이프성이 좋았으며 추동직물에서는 여성 직물의 드레이프성이 더 좋았다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.591-596
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• 2006

In order to analyze the tailorbility of different fabrics for men's suit, FAST system has been used for measuring the distribution of mechanical properties in this study. As results, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics showed the minimum degree in relaxation shrinkage, formability, and shear rigidity than any other fabrics, and also showed more than 6% as maximum level of extensibility. Thus, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics requires careful tailoring in lay-out, marking, and cutting. It is necessary to establish new tailoring criteria for automatic sewing with cashmere mixed woolen fabrics than any other fabrics, because they show more failure rate of tailorbility. There have been noticeably more variation of shrinkage and extension for woolen fabrics with cashmere mixed than 100% woolen fabrics by evaluating the formability of the suits when these are completed to suits through cutting and tailoring from fabrics. Especially nylon mixed woolen fabrics showed shrinkage overall, but polyester mixed woolen fabrics showed extension at waist area. Thus, it is necessary to adjust the appropriate overfeed rate considering the amount of shrinkage and extension while tailoring.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.413-426
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• 2011

This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of texture image and preference according to fiber blending ratio of men's suit fabrics. 110 subjects evaluated the texture image and preference of various fabrics. For statistical analysis, factor analysis, MDS, pearson correlation and ANOVA were used. The results were as follows: Sensory image factors of suit fabrics were 'smoothness', 'bulkiness', 'stiffness', 'elasticity', 'moistness' and 'weight sensation'. Sensibility image factors were 'classic', 'practical', 'characteristic' and 'sophisticated'. 'Bulkiness' and 'elasticity' sensory images showed high correlations with sensibility images. Fabrics with high wool blending ratio showed as 'classic' and 'sophisticated', 'bulkiness' and 'elasticity' texture images and fabrics with low wool blending ratio showed texture images of 'characteristic', 'surface character', 'stiffness', 'moistness' and 'weight sensation'. Wool fiber blending ratio affected on the purchase preference and tactile preference. Using regression analysis, it was shown that sensibility images had more of an effect on preference than sensory images. The thickness and pattern type showed positive effects and fiber blending ratio showed negative effects on the preference.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.1039-1047
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to examine and to evaluate the properties of pile materials to produce velvet fabrics which have excellent handle. In order to perform this purpose, the mechanical properties, hand value (H.V.), total hand value (T.H.V.), total appearance value (T.A.V.) of acetate, cuprammonium rayon, cotton materials for velvet as the typical commercial Pile fabric were measured and analyzed by KES-F system. The important results obtained by this study are as follows. 1 For acetate pile, elogational deformation was easy and bending rigidity of weft was high and elastic recovery was excellent compared with the other materials. 2. Cuprammonium rayon velvet was shown that pile bending rigidity and hysterisis were low. Cotton velvet was shown that compressional energy was high and compressinal elasticity was exellent. 3. In the case that specimens were applied by men's winter suit program, H.V was shown that Koshi of acetate velvet was similar to that of cotton. Numeri of cuprammonium rayon velvet was higher than the others and Fukurami values for all of the three fabrics were similar. 4. But in case that specimens were applied by women's winter suit program Koshi of cuprammonium rayon velvet was lower. But Numeri of that was higher than the others and Fukurami for all of the three fabrics were similar and Sofutosa of cotton velvet was lower than the others. T.H.V. of the acetate velvet was the highest in men's winter suit program while cuprammonium rayon velvet was the highest in women's winter suit program T.A.V. of acetate velvet was highest.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권11호
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• pp.1318-1329
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural characteristics of men's suit fabrics on the texture image and the preference, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the practical sales ratio. In addition, the texture images and the preference of fabric and jackets made of the same fabrics were compared. As specimen, jackets for men's suit of 2002' S/S and their fabrics were collected. Questionnaires composed of 22 sensibility related and 21 fabric image related adjectives were developed. For the subjective evaluation of the texture image, both jackets and fabric samples were tested. Tests were performed with 100 female subjects in clothing department and apparel industry. For the objective evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, yarn twist, fabric count, thickness and weight were analyzed. Total Hand Value were calculated from mechanical properties determined by the KES-FB system. Factor analysis showed sensibilities were classified into 6 categories; "surface roughness", "weight", "density", "stiffness", "elasticity" and "wetness". Fabric images were classified into 4 categories; "classic", "original", "practical", and "stuffy". Depending on the method to show the specimen to the subjects, whether it is suit or fabric, statistically significant differences were observed with a number of adjectives for sensibilities and fabric images. The results of THV of KES did not agree with the preference of subjects, which suggests that we should be careful when using the KES system, which was developed for Japanese people. Price was considered to be another factor besides the texture image that influenced on purchase.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.317-328
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• 2014

In this study, differences of texture image and preference for men's suit fabrics according to mechanical properties, hand and fabric information were investigated. 55 subjects evaluated texture image and preference of 12 kinds of wool blended fabrics. For statistical analysis, t-test and pearson correlation coefficients were used. The results were as follows: Most of mechanical properties effected on texture images, and bending property and shearing property were effected on tactile preference and purchasing preference. For hand, objective hand values showed correlations with subjective texture images and preferences, but THV had almost no correlations. In sensory images according to presence of fabric information, fabrics were evaluated thinner, lighter, more pliable and smooth by cognition of wool blending ratio. For sensibility images, fabrics were evaluated more refined, intellectual, dignified and less practicable after recognize of wool blending ratio. In preferences, tactile preference was increased and purchasing preference was decreased after recognize fabric information. Therefore, significant differences of texture image and preference were observed according to presence of fabric information.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.15-19
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to determine the thermal characteristics of men's suits ensembles and their fabrics. For the study, 100% wool fabrics were woven with various fabric structure, fabric density and yam count and With the use of these, 12 men's suits were made with the same design. Physical characteristics that affect thermal transport properties, including drapery, cover factor; bulk density, keeping warmth ratio, vapor permeability, air permeability and porosity of the fabrics were measured. In addition, thermal resistance of men's suit ensembles, including Y-shirts, inner wear and socks was measured on the thermal manikin in the environmental chamber. The result of the study was as follows: 1. In terms of fabric structure, keeping warmth ratio of plain woven fabrics was higher than those of twill and satin woven fabrics and also, vapor and air permeability and porosity of plain woven fabrics were higher than those of twill and satin woven fabrics. 2. The result showed that thermal resistance of 12 ensembles were in the range of 0.77clo~0.97clo. 3. There was little correlation between woven condition such as, including structure, fabric density and yam count and thermal resistance of ensembles.

• 감성과학
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.117-128
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• 2005

본 연구는 남성 수트소재의 구성적 특성과 역학적 특성이 남성 수트소재의 시각적 질감 이미지와 선호도에 미치는 영향을 분석하는 것이다. 시판하는 남성용 검정색 계열의 춘하 소재 20종을 수집하여, 시각적 질감 이미지에 대한 주관적인 평가를 실시하였고, 피험자는 의류학과 대학원생과 의류관련 업체 종사하는 $20\~30$대 전문가 여성으로 구성하였다. 요인분석으로 "부피감", "신축감$\cdot$드레이프성", "강연감", "평활감"의 요인이 추출되었으며, "강연성"과 굽힘특성과의 관계를 제외한 역학적 특성 평가와 시각적 질감 이미지 평가가 일치하였다. 선호도에 가장 영향을 주는 것은 "평활감", 압축에너지(WC), 밀도, "강연성"이었으며, 시각적으로 매끄럽고 부드럽고 압축에 필요한 에너지가 적고 밀도가 성근 직물을 춘하 남성용 정장으로 선호하였다.