• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권12호
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• pp.2073-2084
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• 2010

This study provides references that can be applied to future suit design by analyzing the formative characteristics of modern men's and women's suits. Research on related literature and case studies were carried out simultaneously. A criterion for analyzing formative characteristics of suits was drawn up through an examination of past research. A total of 1,410 suit photographs that appeared in the U.S. edition of Vogue Magazine from 1985 to 2008 were analyzed in order to observe the formative characteristics of men's and women's suits. Research results showed that in the 1980s suits pursued a more comfortable and natural fit based on the original properties of simplicity, modernity, and practicality; in addition, women's suits had a tendency to use excessive shoulder pads due to the power-look influence. In the early 1990s exaggerated shoulders and boxy straight silhouettes were in fashion but towards the later years suit designs gradually started to fit the body and established a skinny versus slouch conflict. Women's suits gradually began to show more curvy body lines, and men's suits became more feminine on the surface in terms of color and material. In the 2000s suits have become more feminine and sensual than the 1990s, design focuses of both men's and women's suits moved to the waistline. Skinny and long styles became the ideal silhouette and differences between formative characteristics of the two genders decreased. Fashion elements of men's and women's suits are seen to have changed with a mutual intimate connection under the influence of a similar societal environment.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.234-246
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• 2006

As social recognition about men changes and men's concern about appearance increases, so in the social phenomenon of men's toiletries' diversification, ramification and specialization, the aim of this study is to analyze meaning of men's toiletries centered on men's toiletries advertisement published on men's fashion magazines which can be said to speak for men's culture. After collecting of 209 kinds of men's toiletries advertisements published in 'Esquire' and based on contents analysis results divided into domestic & foreign toiletries and perfumery, the symbolic analysis result with selection of representative advertisement in each field separately is that there are more cases of giving salience to a product through image expression rather than emphasizing product's function only, and the emphasis of image only achieves eminence in case of perfumery. At the comparison of domestic with foreign toiletries, in case of domestic toiletries, there are more cases of expressing meaning of toiletries through model image or backgrounds, while in case of foreign toiletries, there are more cases of expressing of function or effect of product through general image itself.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권11호
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• pp.223-232
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• 2001

This study, by explaining the relationship between mechanical properties and clothing formability, aims to propose functional data for tailoring performance of fabrics of good tailorability. The KES-FB system was used to measure factors of mechanical properties and also the technique of stepwise-block-regression method was applied to investigate relationship between functional properties and mechanical properties of men's shirks. As results of vasual inspection of men's shirts, it showed that good fabrics had higher value in the LT, bending properties, shear properties and RC than poor fabrics in Total Appearance Value(TAV). And finally, A formula was obtained for calculating the VIA of men's shirts from functional properties which were calculated from the mechanical properties.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권6호
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• pp.867-876
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• 2015

This research studies socio-cultural hegemony change focused on male society through contemporary ideal masculine images of Asian men (especially Korean and Chinese men). Participants were: South Korean men in and around Seoul and Chinese men in Beijing and Shanghai. The youngest survey participants in their 20's and the oldest in their 40's were asked about their present men's appearance images and masculinity as well as asked to evaluate satisfaction with their own style, and interest in fashion trends on a 5-point Likert scale. In this research, an ideal masculinity was tested by 6 characters (traditional masculinity, macho masculinity, androgynous masculinity, adolescent masculinity, trendy masculinity, and general masculinity) as male avatars. Asian men's consciousness of an ideal masculinity image has moved gradually from traditional masculinity to trendy masculinity, leading to new roles in a socio-cultural agenda. Korean and Chinese men are more interested in appearance and notice fashionable styles to be trendy that follow the latest fashion because most other Asian men reflect a traditional masculinity as an ideal appearance image.

• 한국정보통신학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국정보통신학회 2015년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.859-862
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• 2015

최근 패션사업은 고부가가치 실현을 첫째 목표로 사업전략을 세워 추진을 하고 있다. 이 중 으뜸인 신사복의 완성은 오직 한사람의 신체치수를 통해 패턴을 제작하여 최적, 최상의 옷을 제작함에 있다. 본 논문에서는 업체와 고객의 니즈를 만족시키기 위해 신사복 제작 과정과 시간, 비용절감에 큰 영향을 끼치는 패턴제작을 자동화하는 시스템을 제안하였다. 결과적으로 고객의 시간과 비용을 아끼며 최적의 신사복을 제공함으로써 고객의 니즈와 맞춤 정장의 수요를 증가시키며, 맞춤 신사복 업체의 프렌차이즈화가 더욱 쉽게 이루어 질 수 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.946-957
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• 2003

This study aimed to suggest a simple and well-fitting flat pattern drafting method for a men's jacket. Four jackets in thick muslin were made from four different drafting methods utilizing a few measures as breast girth, center back length, and chest width, which were not much different from the drafting methods of woman's jacket. The appearance of the 4 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students who had much clothing construction teaching experiences and their motion adaptability was evaluated by two wearers who belonged within the range of the average measures of the Korean male figure as reported from the 1997's Census for Standard Body Measure. A drafting method evaluated as the most well-fitting and well-functioning in general was chosen and modified to enhance the appearance and was reevaluated to confirm its fit improvement. As a result of this study, a new drafting method, simple and not much different from that of a woman's jacket pattern drafting method is proposed. Since this method is based on the minimal measures and ratios thereof, and is not as complicated as ordinary drafting methods for men's wear, the researcher expects that this drafting method allows more chances for the students to learn and understand men's wear more easily and comfortably.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.609-616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the difference of judge's gender and age groups in preference of S/S men's suit fabrics, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the texture by gender and age group. For this study, 60 types of S/S men's suit fabrics were used with variously-composed fibers, such as wool, wool-blended, and PET, thickness, and weight. To evaluate the texture and the preference subjectively, nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 22 texture adjectives and preference of 4 apparel items were developed, Through the factor analysis, texture adjectives were classified into 7 categories: "stiffness," "elasticity," "bulkiness," "coolness," "smoothness," and "drapability." Depending on gender and age groups of judges, statistically significant differences on texture factors and the preference were observed. Especially, men under 30 years of age showed a higher grade of stiffness and a lower preference on pants than other groups. The relationship between the texture and the preference was different by gender and age group: Women evaluated a preference of men's suit fabrics in relation to stiffness and smoothness, whereas men did so in relation to stiffness, smoothness, coolness, and drapability. A young age group put more importance on drapability for preference of men's suit fabric.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.136-149
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• 2015

This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.197-210
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to Investigate men's clothing in regard to (1) the effect of wearer's age and clothing: rues on impression formation, and (2) the effect of perceiver's age on impressions formed by the wearer's age and the fuction of clothing cues. The experimental design of this study was between-subjects 24_full factorial design by 4 independent variables. The subjects consisted of 192 subjects in each of two male perceiver groups according to age(20s and 50s). The experimental moterials developed for the study were a set of stimuli al)d a response scale. The stimuli consisted of 16 color photographs made by identical manipulations of 4 independent variables consisting of 2 levels each. Each one of the sixteen sub-samples included 12 subjects from 2 perceiver groups. The independent variables provided by the photographs were (1) wearer's age (20s and 50s), (2) suit color (navy blue and beige),' (3) suit style (single breasted and double breasted), and (4) necktie color (analogous and complementary colors) . The 7-point semantic differential response scale which was designed to measure the impression of the stimuli was composed of 30 bipolar adjectives. The responses to the semantic differential scales were analyzed using factor analysis and ANOVA. The results were as follows:1) Wearer's age, suit color, suit style, and necktie color had significant effects on impression of the 3 factors (appearance·potency, individuality activity, and evaluation) partiafly. However, the suit style was the most dominent clothing cue : the single breasted suit conveyed positive impression of individuality' activity to both of the wearer's age groups than double breasted suit did on both of the perceiver's age groups. 2) Perceiver's age partially influenced impressions formed by the age and the clothing cues of men clothed in suits : the young perceiver's group was less affected by them than middle aged group.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.776-787
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to analyze the factors which have formed gender images in men's fashion since the middle of the 19th century. For this purpose, the images of gender in fashion were analyzed and historical studies about gender images in men's fashion from the middle of the 19th century to the present days were done. Historically images of gender expressed in fashion were masculine image feminine image androgynous image and genderless image. Among those images masculine image and genderless image. Among those image masculine image and androgynous image have been the gender images in men's fashion since the middle of the 19th century. In psychoanalytic view point the factors which have formed the gender images are related with sexual pleasure. Libido for looking narcissism and exhibitionism have produced masculine image and androgynous image in men's fashion, In socioeconomic view point power structure between the sexes have built the gender images in fashion. Masculine image and androgynous image came in to being in men's fashion for the purpose of displaying power or expressing opposition to power structure between the sexes, In aesthetic view point the aesthetic sense of each age about sex have constructed the gender images. Modernism had influence on building masculine image and post-modernism have formed androgynous image in men's fashion.