• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.304-311
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• 2018

This research used a questionnaire to provide basic data for the design of dressing form that enables the manufacture of senior menswear with an improved fit to match the dissatisfaction with the fit of male suits over the 50s. We used 132 questionnaires as analytical data. The results were: The item 'purchasing method of formal suits' showed that 95.5% purchased ready-to-wear jackets. The 'abdominal obesity type' and 'trunk waist type' had a high frequency of 'complaints about the size of the ready-to-wear jacket'. They choose their suits and wear them directly from the store. It is expected that senior males will complain about ready-to-wear formal suits due to the increase in girth item than normal type due to change of body shape since they consider size to also be important when purchasing suits. The most important part of the body when purchasing suits is the shoulder area, followed by the front width and back width of the fit. As for the degree of recognition of suit size, 38.1% said that they know the size and 'Suit size is hard to understand'. As a result of dissatisfaction with formal dressing, the items of 'Neck wide of get loose', 'Drag line of back neck', 'Not fit of front opening', 'Not fit of shoulder slope' and 'dissatisfaction'. Therefore, it is salient to establish suit fitting system and size system for senior men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.14-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to come up with a perspective that can enhance the understanding about the mechanism of fashion change. The starting idea of this study is that fashion has changed according to the ideal body image of the specific society or individual. The theoretical framework about the ideal body image has been studied by the literatures on the subject and it is verified by the analysis of John Galliano & Martin Margiela's fashion works. The results are as follows. First, Galliano exposes the woman's body as a sexual symbol which is articulated by men's eyes. Margiela describes the woman's body as human being which doesn't highlight any sexual characteristics. Second, Galliano emphasizes the body conscious silhouette whereas Margiela perceives the body as a whole, rather than looks into each body part. Third, Galliano uses lots of decoration to make display luxurious. Margiela restrains himself from using decorations and tries to create images by interaction between the clothes and bodies. Forth, Galliano expresses the eroticism by accentuating eyes and lips with strong color cosmetics. Margiela's fashion is not dazzling with makeup. He even covers the face with fabrics. Aesthetics in all societies is articulated by their hidden social power groups, and then it has influence on taking shape of the ideal body image and the mainstream of fashion. But the innate characters of individuals offer challenges to the fashion majority. The tension between the social power and individual character makes and changes the fashion.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.6
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• pp.140-202
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• 2004

Body means 1)the whole structure and substance of a man, animal, or plant 2) the trunk or torso of a man or animal 3) part of garment that covers the trunk 4) the fresh or material substance, as opposed to the spirit. Human body could be distinguished as fresh and spirit. Body has the meaning of physicality. Physical means the bodily and constitution, but in the meaning of constitution there is the content of spirituality. Physicality means the appearing or arising of trace or image or nuance of body. The paintings which are using bodies are 1) directly draw bodies 2) twisting or transformation or nuance of the body and highly upgrade the physical emotion or fantastic bodily nuance 3) directly rubbing artist's body on the surface of painting with pigments to elect tactile specification. These physical art have appeared broadly by various artists, mainly with the social aspects of sex, drug, psycho sexual issues. In case of Joel peter Whitkin, the reason of strong physicality in the art is from the mind of the rejection and resistance of real world which is targeting top, perfect and beauty. Further explanation, being the world which is separated top and under, men and women, beauty and ugly; further in the situation, the hierarchy, terror and pressure began and many difficult problems has derived. The contents of attacking feminists's art works are very obscene to reveal female and male's phallus strongly. Sometime, it is strongly related in the political issues. The physical paintings have strong meanings in the action by hands and feet. It supports that it could reveal the humanity with smell, breath, and traces of bodies. In the bodies, the origin of life begins which gives human life by blood lines and water. Sometime, the physical paintings are made by the blood and urine to stick the physicality for special nuance. The physical paintings are made by the image of penis and clitoris which are related in the image of urinating, ejaculation and sometime is symbolized as pens and candles to drop liquid. The selected painters who are related in physical painting are Jackson Pollock, Andrea Serano, Eve Klein, Francis Bacon, Francesco Clemente, Lichard Long, Jakes & Dinos Chapman, Anselm Kiefer, Kiki Smith and Park, Ki Woong. Francis Bacon's style is destructive in representing human shapes which give us special message about the unbearable activity of men politician, high brain, wealthy and religious people. Francesco Clemente's method is to use throat, ear hole, mouse, clitoris, belly nostrils and every holes of body to transmute human physical body. Lichard Long uses directly his body in drawing the surface of painting by using liquid of mud Jakes & Dinos Chapman destroys or transforms the bodies of human. It sometime appears wrong location of the bodies that the penis and vulva is in between human faces or nose of women, Anselm Kiefer uses human hair for representing the human decaying martyrs, and indirectly using straw, he gives special ritual action to repent the Nazi's fault. From 2002 to 2003, Park KI Woong used women womb images to intermingle the smoke shape of <9.11 terror, 2001> in New York to reveal the painful situation of the time(*).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.5 s.142
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• pp.703-714
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to acquire various methods for the fashion image coordination and to examine common features of variation of coordination methods according to the trend. It has attained by investigating Men's fashion image coordination through trend analysis in terms of its coordination features and its variety aspects. For this study, it has classified into twelve typical Men's fashion images in collecting 1,291 pieces of photographs on the subject of jackets and pants from Men's fashion collection$(1995\~2002)$. The study has examined methods and features of fashion image coordination by year according to design elements and the harmony between items. In addition, it has drawn common factors in the image coordination. The summary and conclusion are as follows. A year of 1995, it has presented as the essential code of the variation that morphologic aspects of a design in the fashion image coordination. Various designs have developed through the variation of shapes such as shoulder width, shoulder pad, jacket width and its length and so on. In the initial stage, the width of shoulder and jacket has fitted into large pattern and then adjusted elegantly to make fit the body that indicates a dissolution according to an avant-garde image. At the time that over-measurement of the shape has reduced and high quality and variation of materials has gradually become significant. Those are often used that high-quality glossy materials or other materials which are opposite to the basic code of the original fashion image materials and qualities regardless of images. On the pattern and color, in addition, have represented neat and elegant impression with moderate applications rather than quantitative abundance that have used opposite elements to the basic code f3r the change code like materials. Furthermore, before and after 1999, ' it shows that a concept of the total coordination has arisen that increased coordination methods to strengthen and affluent its images for the whole with wearing accessaries such as hats, gloves, sunglasses, mufflers, bags, belts and so on.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.672-678
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• 2011

This was written based on the type and structure of korean man's waist belt in the early and middle era of the Chosun era. The waist belt was excavated from the Mokdaldong in the Daejeon city. The types of korean man's waist belt in the Chosun era were classified into Wondahae (i.e., round shape belt) and Gwangdahae. The Wondahae consist of two types which are circle shaped and straight types. The circle shaped wondahae contain one fringe in the main body of the belt and its joint part is decorated with a small network such as lacing decoration with the size about 1 cm around. The shape of the Wondahae has been changed from the circle shaped into the straight types and also has a tendency to be wider and longer as time went by. The standard form of the Gwangdahae is straight with about 2-3 cm width and elaborated by lacelike fringe as well. This also has a tendency to be wider starting from the 1600s show. The structure of this belts were divided into braid and ornament parts. The ornament part was constructed with the lacelike netting and fringe parts. The sophisticated craft techniques have a great decorative beauty. Through an analysis of FT-IR, the materials of those three belt are known which are made of the silk and the core thread was filled with cotton. Moreover, it can be confirmed that the glitter material of the ornament part were designed with gold foil and has been analyzed with SEM-EDX.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.625-634
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• 2014

This study develops a sizing system of mass-customized male suits for wheelchair users. One hundred and three male wheelchair users' 21 anthropometric dimensions were measured to identify body shapes and develop a sizing system. The measured wheelchair users' body sizes were compared with the average body sizes of Korean males from the $6^{th}$ Korean Body Size Survey to understand the body size differences between two groups. As a result of body shape classification using the KS's Drop method, wheelchair user body shapes were classified into four shapes for upper-body (A: 32%, B: 26%, BB: 24%, and Y: 18%), and two shapes for lower-body (B: 70% and A: 30%). The upper-body of wheelchair users was relatively developed than Korean males; however, the lower-body was relatively stunted. The key dimensions of a sizing system were selected as chest circumference, waist circumference, and trunk length, outside leg length based on the correlation analysis between anthropometric measures. The top sizes were determined considering chest and waist circumferences for horizontal sizes, and additionally the trunk length was divided into short, medium, and long groups for vertical sizes. The bottom sizes were selected considering the waist and hip circumferences for horizontal sizes, and additionally their outside leg length was divided into short, medium, and long groups for vertical sizes.

• Korean Journal of Applied Biomechanics
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.161-166
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• 2016

Objective: The purpose of this study was to determine the knee and ankle joint kinematics and kinetics by comparing downhill walking with valley-shape combined slope walking. Method: Eighteen healthy men participated in this study. A three-dimensional motion capture system equipped with eight infrared cameras and a synchronized force plate, which was embedded in the sloped walkway, was used. Obtained kinematic and kinetic parameters were compared using paired two-tailed Student's t-tests at a significance level of 0.05. Results: The knee flexion angle after the mid-stance phase, the mean peak knee flexion angle in the early swing phase, and the ankle mean peak dorsiflexion angle were greater during downhill walking compared with valley-shape combined slope walking (p < 0.001). Both the mean peak vertical ground reaction force (GRF) in the early stance phase and late stance phase during downhill walking were smaller than those values during valley-shape combined slope walking. (p = 0.007 and p < 0.001, respectively). The mean peak anterior GRF, appearing right after toe-off during downhill walking, was also smaller than that of valley-shape combined slope walking (p = 0.002). The mean peak knee extension moment and ankle plantar flexion moment in late stance phase during downhill walking were significantly smaller than those of valley-shape combined slope walking (p = 0.002 and p = 0.015, respectively). Conclusion: These results suggest that gait strategy was modified during valley-shape combined slope walking when compared with continuous downhill walking in order to gain the propulsion for lifting the body up the incline for foot clearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.54-65
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• 1996

The purposes of this study were 1) to present the optimum slacks pattern for young men, 2) to develope a methodology to draft basic slacks pattern using AutoCAD The total crotch legth and the shape of the crutch line were determined by anthropometric data analysis. The total crotch length was calculated with the waist girth, the hip girth and the crotch length measurements. The anthropometric data utilized for this procedure was National Anthropometric Survey of Korea, 1992. And multidimensional anthropometric measurements were carried out for 6 male college students between the age of 18 to 24. The subjects were measured with the Martin's anthropometer and the sliding gauge. Mean, standard deviation and t-test were performed for statistical analysis of the data. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in AutoCAD. The automatic drafting was based on the Muller's slacks pattern drafting method, the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calcuated using the multiple regression equation. The experimental pattern developed to accomodate individual body wleasurements expected to produce customized apparel production in QRS(Quick Response System) production system.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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• v.16 no.9
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• pp.2031-2036
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• 2012

There is body type that physique classified by apparent characteristics as shape of human body. Chest girth circumference and body type statistically has been look into correlative disposition, character etc. In this paper, we carried out study about prediction of chest girth as voice that interrelationship drew to analyze voice of disposition, character etc. in personal character. With this in mind, we measured intensity, spectrum about laughter by chest girth to classify composition group of subjects and then we would like to extract experiment result to predict chest girth by reciprocal comparison.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.12 s.138
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• pp.1605-1616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the commonly accepted ease for a custom-fit business jacket, which provides all customers with the optimum fit regarding their individual body sizes, shapes as well as their personal preference, and also to characterize the factors which affects the ease amount, thereby, supply the reference data to manufacturers of the apparel industry. This study consisted of anthropometric measurements as well as sensory evaluations, and analysed ease amount by body sizes, ages, fit satisfaction, self-perception of body, and the prefered fit levels. There were 272 subjects for anthropometric measurement of which 128 subjects were applied for ease analysis and sensory evaluation. The subjects were males of 20 to 65 years old. The ease at chest was the most sensitive to body sizes and shapes, while waist and hip were easily modified to accommodate the silhouette of the jacket. The main dimensions affecting individual perceptions of fit and ease were the characteristics of body shape, in particular, girth, followed by age. Customers paided most attention to the shoulder fit while customers who preferred a more fitted line showed more concern with ease for jacket fit. It was clearly observable in case of waist fit preference. In addition, the preferred fit at chest, waist and hip would be changed by the perception of ons's hip size.