• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권11호
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• pp.1229-1240
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to review such results of the scientific and technological development as women's changed status, sexual identity and their views of physique in the cyber space based on cyber feminists' theories, and thereby, examine the concept of space during the medieval age, and then, the fundamental spiritual concept involving the fetishism of women's body as sexual objects in the materialistic space of the digital age in terms of the consciousness of trend or supra-sensual perceptions, and thereby, review the effect of the cyber terrorism and violence on the fashion in sub-cultural terms. Some researchers distinguish psychedelic styles from cyberdelic ones to assume such psychiatric visions as psychedelic fashion characterized by resistance and delinquency-cyber punk fashion, cyber hippie fashion, cyborg fashion- and then, define them all as cyber resistant culture fashion or as a sub-cultural style of the cyber culture. As a result, it was found that human bodies are being encoded with the networks, various cyber characters or avatars are emerging, while human bodies are being distorted or exaggerated with human beings and machines being imploded.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.116-136
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• 1992

Architectural essence of John Ruskin's discourse can resolve itself into natural beauty, craftmanship, and truth in structure, surface, and process. His theories became disciplines of modern English school, Art and Craft and Free architecture, in aspects of organic architecture, morality, and rationality. These concepts disseminated continental Art Nouveau and also became it's basic principles. But his empirical theories hated use of machine, and should find a ideal model in medieval romanticism of Gothic. Anti-machine, as a instictive guideline of English modern architecture, couldn't cope with the industrialization of 20th century, and Gothic revival interfered with creating a new style. Muthesius' discourses were taught by the power of group movements and modern concept of form in English school, originally by Ruskin. But he accepted the potentiality of machine and mass production, and stressed creating the new German style suitable with machine. With the progress of Deutscher Werkbund, his theories were advanced to 'quality' connected with craftmanship, to discourse on mechanical 'form', and lastly to 'standardization and type' for mass production. Mechanical functionalism of Muthesius and DWB were sophiscated and handed down to Bauhaus, and then finally helped establishment of the Modern Architecture and Internationalism. Both English and German modern architecture owed their contribution as well as limitation to Ruskin and Muthesius as theorists. Through this comparative study, we can see the priority of theory to practice, the theoretical justification based on insight for its society and future, and the practical character of theory itself.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.231-241
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• 2009

Embroidery is one of the oldest methods of textiles surface decoration. The masterpiece "Tapisserie de Bayeux," is one of the earliest Medieval embroideries. Embroidery was popular on a broad scale with introduction of what was called Opus Anglicanum("English work") in the 13th century. France had been producing sophisticated embroideries since the 16th century. England was the country producing the greatest quantity of embroideries of the best quality in the 17th century. Until the 17th century, the Church was the most important patron of needlework. Then a shift in emphasis occurred towards the domestic embroidery. English 17th century domestic embroidery reached a high point of technical brilliance and charm. In France, embroidery was produced on hangings as well as costume. 18th century interest in embellishing the domestic environment, embroideries became much more finely detailed than those of the 17th century with the use of finer wool and silk threads. French silk were the finest in the world, and their embroidery was arguably equally fine both in furnishing textiles and on costumes. "Art Needlework" was the major movement in embroidery in the late 19th century. The Royal School of Needlework was founded in 1872, followed by similar institutions around Britan. Splendid fashion embroidery of French haut-couture that was represented to Lesage atelier in 20th century.

• Architectural research
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.25-31
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• 2002

For more than a hundred years, art and architectural historians, architects, and engineers interested in structure have attempted to interpret Gothic architecture, one of the most technologically complex and sophisticated structural systems in history. Indigenous Gothic, however, such as non-vaulted Gothic in the Lower Languedoc region of southern France, has been largely ignored. This study intends to analyze the Gothic non-vaulted nef unique (aisleless) structures of Lower Languedoc which have never been scientifically tested, and to provide as comprehensive an explanation as possible of the way in which these non-vaulted buildings work. In order to achieve this goal, this paper is to examine, by means of finite element computer analysis, a selected example of an existing building. The church of Notre-Dame de Lamourguier, the earliest surviving example of a Gothic nef unique with wide-span diaphragm arches in Lower Languedoc, is selected. Thus, hypothetical models of diaphragm arch buildings and an existing building as a complete structural system were scientifically analyzed in order to provide a comprehensive explanation of how the non-vaulted nef unique system works. The result of the analysis, allows us better to understand the structural behavior of this type of masonry arcuated system and the processes involved in the design and construction of medieval buildings.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.873-882
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• 2010

Knitwear has become a part of fashion since aristocratic trend-setters of Medieval Spain and France began wearing luxurious silk stockings. However, in more recent times knitwear emerged as a fashion item in the early 20th century when jersey two-piece Channel dresses became popular amongst the French upper classes. Knitwear then evolved into genuine going out clothes through Sonia Rykiel in the 1970s. Sonia Rykiel has made a great contribution to developing knitwear, which she transformed from being used only in informal dresses or clothes for home wear, to a boarder in use in high-quality dresses such as those worn at parties. Unlike most designers who tend to make very different styles each year, she has restricted her clothes to those made with knitwear. The study examined the designs and formative characteristics of her knitwear in order to clarify why Sonia Rykiel's knitwear fashion is apparently so timeless. Results showed that her garments consistently used black oriented color combination, strife patterns, intarsia techniques and application of diversified subordinate materials and other materials that overcome earlier limitations of knitwear. In addition, her designs consistently express the typically Parisian sophisticated urban femininity through practicality, sensuality and playfulness. Overall, her fashion has shown that it exists for women in action through practical design within the scope of demode, the philosophy in her early days, and it has led her to hold great power over knitwear fashion for the past 40 years.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.105-120
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• 2003

Culture and society exist in the present, but they came from the past. So did clothing. As dressing is deeply based on culture pattern of the times, it is affected by various culture patterns and still keeps developing in modern times. This study is intended to examine the features of retro fashion on culture and dressing of the 19th century. The features of retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing are objection to the existing pattern, recursion to the past, and creativity characteristic of pattern of those days. Neoclassicism arose as it rejected Baroque and Rococo style, and imitated culture and artistic pattern of Greece and Rome. Romanticism objected to formal and universal pattern of Neoclassicism, and imitated Gothic style while recognizing historical facts and studying medieval times. Dressing in Neoclassicism did not accept exaggerated and luxurious Rococo pattern, and imitated simple, soft and straight silhouette of Greece and Rome and created its unique Empire Style. Romanticism imitated luxurious style of Renaissance, the Middle Ages, Baroque, and Rococo, different from simple and straight neoclassical style during the Bourbon restoration, and created its unique style. Thus, it is shown that retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing reflect the style of those days.

• Applied Microscopy
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.135-140
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• 2008

본 연구에서 분만 중에 사망한 여성미라의 자궁 내에 있는 태아미라의 두피를 주사전자현미경과 투과전자현미경을 사용하여 관찰하였다. 주사전자현미경상에서 태아 두피의 표면은 잘 보존된 상태로 관찰되었으며, 각질층에 각화세포도 모양을 그대로 유지하고 있었다. 또한 땀샘과 모발도 원형 그대로 유지하고 있었으며 일부 두피표면에 모발이 빠져서 형성된 모공들이 다수 관찰되었다. 채취한 두피의 횡단면 두께는 약 1mm로 나타났으며 표피와 진피 및 피하조직이 뚜렷하게 존재하였다. 투과전자현미 경상에서 상피세포의 구조나 형태는 관찰되지 않았으며 또한, 세포의 형태를 그대로 유지하고 있는 어떠한 세포들도 전혀 관찰할 수 없었다. 그러나 진피의 교원섬유들은 잘 보존되어 있었고 이들 사이에 Clostridium 속으로 추정되는 부패세균들이 다수 관찰되었다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.94-112
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• 2005

This study focuss on the futurism expressed in Paco Rabanne's works. Paco Rabanne, who has created experimental and prophetic avant-garde fashion by cutting edge techniques and revolutionary new materials, is known as one of the most influential fashion designer of modern times. First, Light, one of the most important element in Paco Rabanne's fashion design, shows some influence of medieval symbols of love and salvation. Second, the artistic trends which influenced on Paco Rabanne's fashion include surrealism, op art and kinetic art. His use of new materials and avant-garde style represents the influence of surrealism. His experimental use of waving plastics and glittering metal during his early period is especially related with op art and kinetic art in the early 1960's which emphasize the artistic effect of light and movement. Third, the characters of Paco Rabanne's works are the harmony of technology and the beauty oh machine by the geometrical figures like triangles, rectangles, and circles and represent and movement,and the innovational creative methods, voluptuous beauty.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.55-67
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• 1990

This is a review on the longitudinal transformation of the Japanese trousers, which is prepared as a pre-study for the comparative analysis of the forms of Korean and Japanese folk trousers. The special traits of the Japanese trousers are found to be as follows: 1) The Japanese trousers seem to have their root in the Northern-Asian or Schithian culture. 2) While the ancient forms of Japanese trousers, esp., those of the 8C before include the same types as Korean folk trousers, the Medieval and Recent era trousers quite differ and transform themselves into the unique Japanese type. 3) All Japanese trousers can largely be classified into formal and functional trousers. Formal trousers play important role as one of the ceremonial wardrobe and are treated rather as an outermost-wear than as an inner-wear. 4) The formal trousers have skirt-like features with much fullness as are presented in many deep pleats, long crotch lines and long sashes connected to the belt; the femine trousers even omit crotch line. 5) The principal forms of Japanese trousers consist of I, $\wedge,\;\wedge$; the $\lambda$ form of Korean and Chinese type had never existed. 6) Varieties of the composite type of Japanese-Western style appear among the trousers of recent time.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 1998

중세 유럽에서는 각 지방의 귀족들이 지배하는 독특한 문화와 풍토 속에서 코치빌더에 의해 지역 특색이 나타나 있는 개성 있는 형태의 마차가 제작되었다. 이러한 마차는 구동수단으로써 엔진이 장착되어진 초기 자동차가 등장하는 시기의 차량 형식에 커다란 영향을 미치게 된다. 이후, 가솔린 엔진의 보급으로 자동차는 크기와 무게에서 유연성을 갖게 되며, 성능과 디자인 측면에서 급속한 발전을 가져왔다. 초기 자동차 제작이 시사하는 중요한 점은 기능에 대한 순순한 접근과 시대성을 표현하는 스타일링의 단계적 진보를 이루었다는 것이다. 이러한 발전과정이 배경에는 관련 산업의 진보와 함께 각 지역의 사회적 영향이 자동차의 형태에 반영되어 왔음을 알 수 있다. 본 연구는 대량 동력 화(mass-motorization)된 현대 사회에 있어서 자동차에 대한 무한한 요구와 다양화를 추구하는 시점에서 시간의 영속성과 자동차 디자인이 취해야할 본위를 재고해 볼 수 있는 계기로 삼아보는데 그 의의를 두었다.