• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.307-313
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study is to investigated characteristics of many pleated skirt of Miao women's Guizhou province in China. The method of this study is referd to sundry recordes and demonstrated traditional clothing of several region in Guizhou province. The most important characteristic of the costume of the Miao is the many pleated skirt, worn by most but not all groups. Pleats are pulled into place with a sharp pointed instrument and sprinkled constantly with starch. The length of the pleated skirt depends on the group. The long skirts reach to the ankle, the medium-sized to the shank and the short ones not below the knee. The design of the pleated skirt is simple but most pleated skirt ornamented with fine, cross-stiched or batic designs of geometrical figures. The figures decorated on the pleated skirt has been handed down with little change from generation to generation and has become an important mark of Miao women's each area. Seeing the many pleated skirt of Miaos investigated in these several respects by the standard of contemporary beauty, it is thought that it has the infinite possibility of being used in contemporary fashion design on account of the characteristics of almost perfect costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.3 s.93
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• pp.94-107
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• 2005

Kokuryo mural tombs are located in Jipan and Pyongyang, where were capital Cities of Kokuryo. Although there are many studies performed about costumes in Kokuryo mural tombs so far, the studies comparing regional differences are rare. In this study, we tried to compare about the costumes in Kokuryo mural tombs between Jipan, where was the capital city in early period (BC37-AD426) and Pyongyang, where was the capital city for 241 years after the King Jang Su moved.(AD427-AD668) The results of this study are as following. There are differences between Jipan and Pyongyang in the shape of Chima(skirt) and the direction of Yeomim (adjusting the necklines). While there was only one type, long and narrow pleated skirt in Jipan area, another type of Chima was existed in Pyongyang area including the one in Jipan. Also, the direction of Yeomim was different. Left was popular in Jipan while it was right in Pyongyang. Moreover there are no man's Po(coat) with straight collar which was considered as a basic shape in Kokuryo mural tombs costumes so far. Also we found that Baji(pants) was an ordinary woman's costume, not only for underwear.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.493-511
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• 2000

The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from P마 Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis : man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summerized as follows : It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Only one name of woman's costume appeared in the text : It was kind of long vests. However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.115-123
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• 2001

The dress and ornaments in the Taijiang were fashionable, which were densely populated with Miao nationality. Women's traditional festive dress in Taijiang included an embroidered blouse and a pleated skirt. The garments are decorated with plenty of ornamental designs. The colours of festive dress were as rich and gorgeous as those of fashinable desses. Embroidery was very popular in Taijiang and its principal feature is embroidery with loose, coloured floss silk. The image of patterns changed ingeniously and colourfully but do harmony. In the using of colour, one kind of the festive dress was in the main red, which means a bright dress. The colour of another kind of festive dress was blue, which means a dark dress. There were many kinds of silver ornaments for women. Taijiang was most outstanding in this respect. The great variety of silver ornaments was a unique feature of women's dress in Taijiang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.30-44
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• 2007

The culture includes every possible objective forms created by humans and their shared aspects of ideas, feelings, and behaviors, beliefs and etc. The dress and its ornaments are part of the culture that expresses the relationships in objective ways and in formless immaterial ways. The school uniform represents significant meanings to the students in their school years, and it is the way of expressing their individuality and full filling their needs for self-presentation. Therefore, understanding and analyzing youth culture means understanding students' school uniform along with fast changing twenty first century civilization. Korea and Japan are very close nations to each other. Both Korean and Japanese girls' school uniform style were adopted western clothing style and went through many changes based on cultural differences between two countries. They are affected by different peculiarities between two nations and youth cultures from different cities. Therefore, this research is on analyzing how different visual values of girl's high school uniforms in Seoul and Tokyo and understanding youth cultures through macro-analysis. The youth cultures in Korea and Japan are mostly similar but there is special development on animation in Japan and possibly can find many styles of girl's high school uniform. Both nations are varying to be opened to sexual culture of adolescents but Japan is more uninhibited than Korea. In Japan, sailor-uniform can be found in fetish way in public culture. On one hand, because of most private girl's high schools in Tokyo takes an entrance examination, top-ranking students are very proud of their school uniforms and even students from other public high schools get private high school uniforms to attend school festival. This analysis showed that private girl's high school uniform in Seoul appealed as slim fitted silhouette which is close to modem woman's suit style while in Tokyo appealed as boxy style matched with short pleated skirt or sailor-uniform style. Comparing that to school uniform photos taken on the street, we can find that alikeness or more extreme styles as examples. These are influenced by different youth cultures in Seoul and Tokyo and cultural differences stands for different aesthetic norm being accepted or rejected.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.