• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.23 no.11
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• pp.1801-1805
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• 2014

Longshore current is main transportation mean causing movement of bed load and suspended particle in coastal waters, and effective measurement method and suitable equipment for shallow water coastal environment where is frequently exposed to atmosphere. Measurement equipment for longshore drift was designed and miniature model was applied to Gyeongpo beach in May and June, 2014. The equipment consists of three main elements, spheroid outer casing, spheroid inner casing, observation module equipped with GPS. Gyroscope principle was applied to observation module, and GPS receiver always can be directed upwards. Miniature models were installed along Gyeonpo beach, and it was well to track the flow of longshore current. This research described the design and function of the equipment and results of field experiments.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.153-165
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• 2018

In this study, the performance of irregular wave field generation of olaFlow is first verified by comparing the frequency spectrum of the generated waves by the wave-source using olaFlow and the target wave. Based on the wave performance of irregular waves of olaFlow, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters, which act as the main external forces of the salient formation, are numerically investigated. The numerical results show that as the gap width between breakwaters decreases, the wave height in the center of the gap increases and as the gap width between breakwaters increases, the longshore currents become stronger. As a result, it is possible to understand the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.399-409
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• 2017

This study numerically investigates the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy acting as the main external forces of the salient formed behind the permeable submerged breakwaters. Shoreline response is also predicted by the longshore-induced flux. In this paper, a three-dimensional numerical wave tank based on the OLAFOAM, CFD open source code, is utilized to simulate the velocity field around permeable submerged breakwaters under the formation condition of salient. The characteristics of the velocity field around permeable submerged breakwaters with respect to the gap width between breakwaters and the installing position away from the shoreline under a range of regular waves for different wave height are evaluated. The numerical results revealed that as the gap width between breakwaters increases, the longshore currents become stronger. Furthermore, as the gap width becomes narrower, the point where flow converges moves from the center of the breakwater to the head part. As a result, it is possible to understand the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters. In addition, it was found that the longshore currents caused by the gap width between breakwaters and the installation position away from the shoreline are closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.166-179
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• 2018

This study aims at numerically investigating the water-surface characteristics such as wave height distribution depending on the current direction around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters in wave-current coexisting field which has not been considered in detail so far. In addition, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy, which act as the main external forces of formation of salient, are also examined. For numerical analysis, olaFlow which is open source code of CFD was used and the numerical tests included different types of target waves, both regular waves and irregular waves. Numerical results indicated that wave height variation with wave following or opposing a current behind the submerged breakwater is closely related to turbulent kinetic energy. Furthermore, it was found that weaker longshore currents are formed under wave-current coexisting field compared to the non-current conditions, and transport flow is attenuated. As a result, it was possible to understand the influence of current existence and direction (following and opposing) on the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.180-198
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• 2019

In recent years, countries like Europe and Japan have been involved in many researches on the Low-Crested Structure (LCS) which is the method to protect beach erosion and it is regarded as an alternative to the submerged breakwaters, and compiled its results and released the design manual. In the past, studies on LCS have focused on two-dimensional wave transmission and calculating required weight of armor units, and these were mainly examined and discussed based on experiments. In this study, three-dimensional numerical analysis is performed on permeable LCS. The open-source CFD code olaFlow based on the Navier-Stokes momentum equations is applied to the numerical analysis, which is a strongly nonlinear analysis method that enables breaking and turbulence analysis. As a result, the distribution characteristics of the LCS such as water level, water flow, and turbulent kinetic energy were examined and discussed, then they were carefully compared and examined in the case of submerged breakwaters. The study results indicate that there is a difference between the flow patterns of longshore current near the shoreline, the spatial distribution of longshore and on-offshore directions of mean turbulent kinetic energy in case of submerged breakwaters and LCS. It is predicted that the difference in these results leads to the difference in sand movement.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.29 no.5B
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• pp.463-472
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• 2009

The aim of this study is to examine the effect of beach curvature on wave fields in coastal area with Submerged Breakwaters using the 3D numerical model that is able to simulate directly interaction of WAve Structure Sandy beach (LES-WASS-3D). At first, the adopted model was validated through the comparison with an existing experimental data and showed fairly nice agreement. And then, the numerical simulations have been performed to investigate the effect of according to the variation of beach curvature. Based on the numerical results, the wave height, mean surface elevation, mean flow around submerged breakwaters and longshore distributions of run-up height have been discussed in relation to the variation of beach curvature.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.4B
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• pp.243-251
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• 2012

To investigate the characteristics of rip current occurring at Haeundae beach, observations obtained from a buoy and a CCTV were analyzed and numerical experiments were conducted. During observed rip-current events, the CCTV images showed that a couple of wave-trains, which are close to regular waves with slightly different directions, propagated to the beach, and wavelet analyses of data from the buoy showed very narrow-banded spectra with a peak frequency. From the evidences, it was inferred that a known mechanism of generating rip current due to the nodal line area of honeycomb-patterned wave crest was one of the significant factors of rip current occurrences of Haeundae beach. The mechanism has been explained by the following: When two wave-trains with slightly different directions propagate to a beach, wave crests of the incident wave-trains form honeycomb pattern due to nonlinear interaction. The nodal lines of honeycomb pattern are developed in the cross-shore direction. And longshore currents flow toward the nodal line area which has very low wave energy. Consequently their mass flux is expelled through the area toward the sea direction. To confirm the generation, numerical experiments were performed using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. In the cases with two incident wave-trains with slightly different directions and with a monochromatic wave propagating over a submerged shoal, it was seen that the honeycomb pattern of wave crests was well developed, and thus rip currents were evolved along the nodal lines.