• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.589-594
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• 1997

A total of 24 surface sediment samples collected from coastal region and fronting of sea cliff on Cape Cod In southeastern Massachusetts, were analyzed to Investigate the sediment transport mechanism. According to the result of grainsize analysis, the overall trend of g.k size decreases from the north(Wood End Beach) to the south(Nauset Light Beachy. The coarser materials tend to be deposited at the foreshore than at the backshore. Especially gavel content(%) Is very high in northern beaches. The lavel fraction tended to concentrate at the toe of the beach. In addition to gravel. the beach and nearshore bar also tended to be deposite of very coarse sand and the Inner fraction accumulate in the offshore bar, Grainsize analyses of sediment Indicates that the coarsest sands Including gravel accumulate In the beach and nearshore bar, the finer fraction winnowed out by wave action to be deposited In the offshore bar. The beach and nearshore bar sands and gavel are subsequently transported laterally by the wave-driven longshore drift, and finally they come to rest in the distal end of Provincetown Hook. The faller offshore sands are trnasported laterally to the south by net southward-directed longshore current.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1996.10a
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• pp.137-139
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• 1996

It is known that under storm waves, beach will respond by eroding material from the beach Ace and the formation of longshore bar(s) in the vicinity of breaking point. This breakpoint bar is believed to have the effect of slowing down beach erosion by dissipating incoming wave energy and retarding offshore sediment transport. Recently, artificial bin are being proposed as beach protective measures based on this reasoning. (omitted)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.59-65
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• 2003

The changes of beach profile with a natural longshore bar and beach profile with a fixed artificial bar are studied, respectively, using a numerical model. The quasi three dimensional wave-current-sediment transport model is applied with an addition of boundary condition for sediment transport on the artificial structure under water. The study shows that the natural bar adapts itself to the change of coastal physical environment by adjusting its location but the fixed artificial bar causes the formation of a second natural bar seaward of the fixed bar and scouring at the rear of the fixed bar. This study can be applied to work on the change of beach profile with submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.91-107
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• 1995

In this paper, previously proposed mechanisms of generation and maintenance of rip currents are grouped into three broad categories; (1) prismatic topography models, (2) non-prismatic topography models and (3) structural controls by natural and/or constructed features, such as headlands, piers. groins, jetties. etc. The prismatic models can explain the occurrence of a rip current on a planar beach, while non-prismatic model needs undulatory topography inside the surf zone to generate and maintain a rip current. Yet more detailed and thorough studies need to be conducted to include all relevant variables and to clarify the mechanism(s) governing rip current. Next a simple model is presented to predict mean longshore currents behind a longshore bar (or submerged breakwaters) by considering mass transport over the bar and the bar morphology. This hydrodynamic model could be extended to include the sedimentary feedback mechanism.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.446-457
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• 2020

Crescentic sand bar in the coastal zone of eastern Korea is a common morphological feature and the rhythmic patterns exist constantly except for high wave energy events. However, four consecutive typhoons that directly and indirectly affected the East Sea of Korea from September to October in 2019 impacted the formation of longshore uniform sand bar and overall shoreline retreats (approx. 2 m) although repetitive erosion and accretion patterns exist near the shoreline. Widely used XBeach to predict storm erosions in the beach is utilized to investigate the morphological response to a series of storms and each storm impact (NE-E wave incidence). Several calibration processes for improved XBeach modeling are conducted by recently reported calibration methods and the optimal calibration set obtained is applied to the numerical simulation. Using observed wave, tide, and pre & post-storm bathymetries data with optimal calibration set for XBeach input, XBeach successfully reproduces erosion and accretion patterns near MSL (BSS = 0.77 (Erosion profile), 0.87 (Accretion profile)) and observed the formation of the longshore uniform sandbar. As a result of analysis of simulated total sediment transport vectors and bed level changes at each storm peak Hs, the incident wave direction contributes considerable impact to the behavior of crescentic sandbar. Moreover, not only the wave height but also storm duration affects the magnitude of the sediment transport. However, model results suggest that additional calibration processes are needed to predict the exact crest position of bar and bed level changes across the inner surfzone.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.46 no.6
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• pp.693-706
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• 2011

The Geomorphological properties and ages of river-mouth bar at Song-cheon River in the East Coast of Korea, Yeongdeok-gun, Gyeongbuk Province are estimated, and the long-term and short-term changing processes and causes are analyzed. Sand grains of the bar near the coastline show the finer trends from south to north and these can be attributed to the northward movement of waves and long-shore currents. The absolute ages of bar and nearby coastal sand dune are less than approximately 100 years ago, indicating that the bar has experienced the active geomorphological changes. While the inlet located at south part of the bar between 1971 and 1995, the inlet has located at north or middle part since 1995. These may caused by the changes of movement directions of waves and long-shore currents due to the apparent northward movements of winds and currents. In short-term, the higher elevation, larger area, simpler landform relief and more variable location of inlet and morphology of bar can be observed between September and March due to the dominance of sedimentary processes by wave and wind processes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.185-193
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• 2010

In the present study, wave deformation and wave-induced current were calculated under the regular wave conditions using the Boussinesq model. The model results of the wave deformation showed good agreements with the preceeding laboratory experiments of others. The wave-induced current of the fully developed sea state was calculated. For field application of model, the preceeding field data by others in the real scale of the water area were compared, the numerical result of wave deformation showed a relatively good agreement with the field data. Although the numerical result of wave-induced current was underestimated over the longshore bar developed area, the Boussinesq model is generally suitable to predict the wave-induced current.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.266-273
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• 2016

Two-dimensional hydraulic experiments were performed to assess the impact of artificial seaweed on wave energy attenuation, and coastal erosion prevention. In this experimental study, erosion geometry and wave reflection coefficients were determined for normal and stormy incident waves, with and without artificial seaweed. The coastline of beaches without artificial vegetation was observed to retreat, and the longshore bar height increased in normal and stormy conditions. Through the introduction of artificial seaweed (of widths 0.8 m, and 1.6 m), the coastline was found to advance in the offshore direction due to material deposition. From these results, it is shown that artificial seaweed alters the cross-section of beaches, such that it is possible to prevent coastline erosion.