• 복식
• /
• 제62권4호
• /
• pp.15-31
• /
• 2012

This study is intended to understand the styles, colors and color arrangements of costumes expressed on Kisan Kim Jun-geun's genre paintings of Joseon in the late 19th century. The paintings vary according to the status and gender of the person wearing the costume as well as the time period and different situations the person belongs to. Also, this study aims to examine the meaning and value of Kisan's paintings in terms of the history of Korean costumes. The result of this study are as follows: The basic and common attire for people of all status and class is the jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) for men and Banhoijang jeogori, chima(skirt) for women. Men wear Po(coat) that represents their status and age, and they put on various hats according to different weather conditions or work-skill even when in the same status and class. However, women wear the Baeja(vest), Durumagi(coat) and head-dresses when they are cold. Overall, the costume patterns and shapes that appear on Kisan's paintings show the same patterns and structures when compared to different data during the same time period. Thus, they provide useful information to help not only understand the changes of patterns and structures of costumes, but also the situations and emotions of the people of that time period. Moreover, it can be understood that various colors and color arrangements that reflect the situations and emotions of the late 19th century were used. This study that analyses the colors and color arrangements used in Kisan's genre paintings can provide the very basic and systematically arranged data to help understand the unique colors in Korea. These data can also provide important information to understand the use of dyes and pigments during that time. Therefore, Kisan's genre paintings are meaningful and valuable in terms of the history of Korean costumes for these are the data, from which we can review the costumes, colors and color arrangements in the years from 1890 to 1910.

• 한국문헌정보학회지
• /
• 제29권
• /
• pp.205-230
• /
• 1995

The publication of books on modern agriculture started under the influence of Silhak Thought developed from the late Chosun Dynasty. The common intention found in these publications is the objective to enrich the country through increased agricultural productivity and thus to secure national independence from the surrounding powers. The study reviews three different categories in this area; five general books on agriculture, three on agriculture related legal regulations, and ten books introducing techniques of commercial agriculture. The first category is comprehensive treatment of general agricultural content and the second is legal regulations which affected the contemporary agriculture. The third category is introductory books on commercial techniques aimed at accumulating wealth through agriculture. Silkworm cultivation occupies an important place in these publications owing to the active encouragement given by the Section of Silkworm Cultivation in the Ministry of Agriculture, Commerce and Industry. We can recognise the extensive involvement of Suh Pyung Sook, who served as the Section Chief of Silkworm Cultivation in 1904, by examining introductions and prefaces of many books in this category. The examples of general books on agriculture are 'New Agricultural Administration' (농정신편), 'General Introduction on Agiculture' (농업대요), 'New Textbook on Agricuture' (신찬농업교과서), 'Pragmatic Agriculture' (실리농방신편), Of these, 'New Agricultural Administration' (농정신편) is evaluated as the first publication on modern agriculture. It was written in 1881, and the first edition was published was published in 1901 with the second edition following in 1905. Examples of the second category are; 'The regulation on utilizing uncultivated state owned land' (국유미간지리용법) legislated and declared with the intention of expanding cultivated area, 'Mining and Forestry Regulation' (광임법규), 'Forest Land Regulation' (임야법령) to administer mining and forestry. Books on commercial agriculture take up the highest proportion in the agricultural publication of this period. These cover silkworm cultivation, chicken farming, vegetables and fruits. The books introduce Western techniques with more scientific and rational approach especially on Silkworm cultivation and chichen farming which had become increasingly significant as commercial agriculture from the late Chosun Dynasty.

• 자연과학논문집
• /
• 제8권2호
• /
• pp.257-287
• /
• 1996

조선후기는 근대 서민 문예의 부흥기로서, 서민문예의 대두와 더불어 일어난 서민계층의 등장은 복식에 있어서의 대중 복식 문화를 부각시키면서 복식의 유행현상이 나타나게 되었다. 이 시기 모든 계층의 여성 복식에서 공통적으로 풍미한 유행사조는 과장된 치마허리 그리고 둔부를 volume감 있게 강조한 치마등을 통해 여체를 드러낸 선정적인 silhouette이 나타났다. 유교 규범에 의해 억제되고 절제된 여성들의 복식행동(clothing behavior)에서 이처럼 육체를 긍정한다는 것은 사회의 일정한 진보단계에 위치한다고 보겠다. 그것은 Eroticism자체는 영원한 인간의 본능에 의존하겠지만, 이 Eroticism을 통하여 어떤 사회적 질곡을 벗어나려고 하는데에 있어서는 그 Eroticism의 발로가 사회적 의의를 가지는 것이다. 그러므로 조선후기의 여성복식에서의 Erotic Mode는 여성들 자신의 것인 동시에 그 사회의 것이며, 그것은 가식적이고 표면적인 유교적 도덕관의 외피 속에 흐르고 있는 인간성의 폭로이고, 그것을 표현할 수 있다는 데에 서민문예의 진보성과 근대성이 있는 것이다.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제29권2호
• /
• pp.272-288
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of decoration techniques used in women's Chima and Jeogori in traditional Hanbok catalogs from 2010 to 2020, and to analyze the frequency of each type. The method of this study is as follows. This study first investigated the transition of modern Hanbok and decorative techniques by analyzing and classifying such work in previous studies. Based on this, the technique of decorating the Jeogori and Chima that appeared in the traditional Hanbok catalog of the study period was analyzed. The results of the study are as follows. In the case of Jeogori, in the first half of 2010, the decorative technique of a relatively large size was used, and the decorativeness tended to be strong. However, in the late 2010s, the number of decorative techniques used in Jeogori has decreased, and the size of the decorative technique has become smaller and more concise, leading to a tendency to understated decoration. In the case of Chima, techniques to express natural texture by processing threads or fabrics themselves were mainly used rather than techniques to add decoration to the surface, and techniques to express various surface texture tended to develop toward the late 2010s. The change in the decoration technique of Jeogori and Chima appears to be a combination of social, cultural, and economic factors such as a change in consumption culture and a reduction in the wedding market.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제4권3호
• /
• pp.15-33
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is to suggest the new ecology fashion through the comprehensive approach to analyze the difference of characteristics between ecology fashion established before the early 1990's and new ecology fashion advented in the late 1990's and create the design inspired by the image of new ecology fashion. As a method of accomplishing this research, the articles and magazines related to the fashion were examained. Also internet was surfied for studying social and cultural background of new ecology and examining the trend of new ecology expressed at design at first. Through examining the fashion mode in the late 1990's related to the trend of new ecology, the characteristics of new ecology fashion have been devided by the fabric, color and detail and drown out three images of new ecology fashion. The cultural background of new ecology is advent of fusion, techno and zen culture in the late 1990's. The characteristics of new ecology fashion are as follows. As regards of the fabrics, It's been used naturalized synthetic fabrics such as lycra and tencel produced by the advanced technology as well as luxurious natural fabrics. As the aspect of colors, on the basis of neutral colors shown to the previous ecology fashion, the wide range of colors including the vivid colors has been presented sophisticatedly. The most evident characteristic of new ecology fashion is the increase of details, along with keeping the minimal style. According to this trend of new ecology fashion, three charicteristic images can be extracted ; the techno ecology, the modern ecology and the romantic ecology. As the megatrend sustained during the late 1990's, the trend of new ecology was the mainstream not only of the fashion but also of the human life style, and has the potential continued in the 2000's.

• 영미문화
• /
• 제14권2호
• /
• pp.207-232
• /
• 2014

Scholars have considered Chaucer's House of Fame mostly as an ars poetica, in which the poet explores new poetic principles and subject matters, while making few attempts to understand the poem in its historical and social contexts. Investigating the nature of the "tidings" that Chaucer suggests as the new source of his poetic inspiration, this paper argues that the house of Rumor was modeled after late fourteenth century English society that experienced increased appetite for news. The political upheaval during the period from the English Rising in 1381 to the reign of Henry IV in the early fifteenth century produced an unprecedented amount of written and oral propaganda. The proliferation of seditious rumors as well as protests and promulgations during this period indicates how seriously medieval society was engaged with the circulation of news. Particularly, the case of John Shirle in 1381 and the legend about the survival of Richard II demonstrate the subversive power of medieval rumor that often served as a political discourse with which people expressed their oppositions to government. Conspicuous in the activities of both the government and late medieval political protestors was the extensive use of writing. The posting of bills in public places continued until the fifteenth century, when such activities became so common and dangerous that the government had to issue proclamations forbidding the circulation of such seditious writings. The number of extant royal proclamations, written protests, and pamphlets demonstrates that already in the late fourteenth and fifteenth centuries the notion of a discursive public space began to emerge. Whether written or orally transmitted, news and rumor circulated in late medieval England, creating a social space in which people shared their political opinions before the introduction of the early modern print culture. In The House of Fame Chaucer calls attention to the subversiveness of rumor, its potential as a public discourse, and the power of written communication in creating truth in order to appropriate these characteristics for his English poems.

• 한국엔터테인먼트산업학회논문지
• /
• 제15권8호
• /
• pp.75-89
• /
• 2021

본고에서 코미디언 김희갑, 구봉서, 서영춘을 중심으로 1960년대 후반기 코미디영화에 나타나는 웃음의 의미작용을 분석한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 코미디언의 내러티브적 웃음은 기성세대/청년세대의 세대 갈등, 하층계급/상층계급의 계층 갈등, 남성/여성의 젠더 갈등과 현실의 좌절을 나타낸다. 둘째, 코미디언의 웃음 창출 기제는 보수적인 기성세대에 대한 조롱, 부도덕한 상층계급에 대한 폭로, 좌절하는 하층계급에 대한 희화화를 보여준다. 셋째, 코미디언 웃음의 실천적 양상은 전통/근대의 균열, 경제적 불평등의 간극, 금지된 욕망의 표출을 드러낸다. 그래서 코미디언 김희갑, 구봉서, 서영춘은 비공식문화의 폐쇄적 개방, 캐릭터/퍼포머의 충돌을 통해 내부/외부의 경계자와 낙관적 세계관이라는 웃음의 의미작용을 보여준다.

• 디자인학연구
• /
• 제13권3호
• /
• pp.135-144
• /
• 2000

본 연구의 목적은 바젤 스타일에 대한 역사적인 고찰을 통해 20세기 모던 타이포그래피의 전개과정과 그 현재적인 의미를 파악하고자 하는 것이다. 제1장에서는 20세기 초 모던 타이포그래피와 스위스 스타일이 형성되는 배경을 살펴보았고, 제2장에서는 바젤 타이포그래픽 전통이 형성되고 또 극복되어 가는 과정을 고찰하였다. 제3장에서는 바젤 스타일의 현재적 의미를 살펴보고 이 스타일이 디지털 시대의 시각언어와 조형문법을 형성하는데 어떠한 영향을 미쳤는지 살펴보았다. 이러한 연구를 통해 본 연구자가 고찰하고자 한 것은 그래픽 디자인의 역사가 단지 탁월한 능력과 감각을 지닌 몇 몇 디자인 거장들에 의해 이끌어지거나 사회, 문화적인 맥락과는 상관없이 일시적으로 등장했다가 사라지는 화려한 디자인 스타일들로 이루어지는 것이 아니라 나름대로의 내적인 동력을 가지고 역사적인 진보의 방향에 따라 전개되어온 전문 분야의 역사임을 보여주고자 하는 것이었다.

• 건축역사연구
• /
• 제9권2호
• /
• pp.85-100
• /
• 2000

This paper is a study of the Beaux-Arts discipline of architecture, as it was established during the late nineteenth century in America. It focuses on trio particular modes of vision and representation that were at the heart of the discipline. The paper argues that Beaux Arts vision was centered on what may be called 'planar vision'; a mode of seeing through which the multiple aspects of the architectural design imbedded in the plan were read and re-interpreted. Similarly Beaux-Arts training in drawing required its student to draw within the multiple layers of historical traces; the new design being in effect a new layer placed on often unseen traces of monumental precedent. The theoretical basis of this practice was not based on history but on the concept of composition. Composition, in the French tradition was regarded more a matter of practice than theory. The Anglo-American discourse on composition, on the other hand, formed a body of theoretical literature based on formalist assumptions. There was, however, a fundamental gap between these formalist theories of composition and the 'layered' modes of vision and drawing involved in the design process. This practice leaned more on the modern romantic notion of 'intuition' for its theoretical basis, once again forming an immanent conflict with the mimetic practice of classical and historical architecture. The paper draws a picture of a discipline centered on a 'theory of the plan,' a potentially modern discipline integrated with classical forms and details. It was clearly effective as a practice. However, structured by conflicts between theory and practice, history and form, mimesis and intuition, the Beaux-Arts was unable to defend itself at the philosophical and theoretical level the modernists engaged their attacks on this system. At the same time, the paper poses the question of how different modern architecture is from this system. Is not the 'theory of plan,' in its many transformations and guises, still the central discipline of twentieth century modern architecture, and is it not structured by basically the same kind of conflicts and paradox that were immanent to the Beaux-Arts system.

• 건축역사연구
• /
• 제3권1호
• /
• pp.161-172
• /
• 1994

This is part of a study on the origin of modernist forms and settings. Forms in Modern Architecture are totally new as though they seemed to be originated from some remote culture. Archaeological studies and Laugier's primitivist attitude to the classical architecture provided a way leading, in the end, to pure structures and abstract forms. An application of the classical elements was combined with the ultimate image of nobility, simplicity and rationality. What the seventeenth and eighteenth century theorists realized in the ruines of the classical structures were not the ones with their original organic vitality but the deteriorated, naked and abstracted ones. The essence of the classical structures has been the one of the main references of the modern white architecture. Ration and Nature were the quintessential terms in the design process of the Enlightenment architects of the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as they were in the twentieth century architecture. Pure geometric and symbolic forms were new inventions for the new revolutionary age after the development of architectural Styles, successive until Baroque and Roccoco, ceased to go on to the next phase. Many of their buildings appeared so modem in character, for they were omitted all but the essential structure and decoration. Other sides of rationality in the pre-modern age were evolved in terms of the paradigmatic research and the logic in structure. Durand developed a systematic typological approach to the forms. Geometry was the basis of his designs and his illustrations resembled endless simple geometrical problems. One of the other rational approaches was mainly developed by Viollet-le-Duc. To him, Gothic architecture was the model in which each members functioned actively and exerted counterpressure and the Middle Ages invented new fantastic forms. The several ways of rational approaches in architecture were led to the 'tabula rasa' planning in modern architecture. Nature was remained untouched and not deformed as Ledoux's houses in the $H{\hat{o}}tel$ de $Th{\acute{e}}lusson$ were setted on informal gardens. It is part of the modem image that Nature flows or interpenetrates through the white prisms of the strictest classical purity and machines.