• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.532-542
• /
• 2014

This study developed a practical knitwear design with applying the pattern of Queen Yeong's pearl pouch. The ume flower pattern of pearl pouch was simplified to be one repeat pattern, and four simulated knit pattern samples of G-A, G-B, R-A, and R-Bwere made with cable, cross, and two background colors of gray and red using Texpro V.11.0. The items of design application were selected after an interview with a panel of university students in their twenties and knit samples were produced by hand knitting. The small sized G-A for the partial ornament of hat, sweater, skirt, kitchenware case and accessories; the long sized G-B for the tuck of sleeves, hem of skirt and one-piece dress, partial ornament of sweater, scarf, and curtain decoration: the small sized R-A was preferred for point ornament of pouch, boots, hat, partial ornament of children's fashion products and accessories: the long sized R-B for table runner, leg warmer, tuck of sleeves, skirt hem, necktie, and scarf. The knit samples were formulated with partial ornaments attached on dress and props or connected each other. Colors of pastel and navy were also presented to meet the demands of panels. The study placed a limit on the slight difference between the simulation samples and knit samples due to the characteristics of threads and hand tension. The color variation for multiple coordination and activation to reduce the piece rate for young customers remains to be discussed in the near future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.277-289
• /
• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.8
• /
• pp.67-82
• /
• 2014

This research aims to explicate how we reveal our identity and emphasize beauty in our passion for beauty. It also attempts to find out our sense of beauty in exaggeration of visual expressions. The purpose is to represent how the contemporary knit fashion is various and exaggerated in our modern fashion world, and also to give the direction of new knitwear designs through the visual analysis of exaggerated knit fashion. Literature research was done by studying reference books and magazines, leading papers and based on a dissertation thesis. This study collected 787 designer's works published in the world's big Four collections from the 2000 S/S to 2011 S/S, in 23 seasons during 12 years. In answer to 9 experts about the criteria of classification, 520 works were chosen and analyzed according to the standard of exaggerated knitwear. The result of the study is the followings: The type of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion was classified in three categories; Enlarge exaggeration, reduce exaggeration and transform exaggeration. As a sub-category, enlarge exaggeration was classified into three categories; Volume expansion and the expansion by the material, gauge and larger composition application expansion. Reduce exaggeration appeared as mini-reduction, skinny-reduction and transform exaggeration was respectively classified into deformation of the shape and patterns. The characteristics of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion appeared as the new formative sense. In terms of fuller sense and surface, using various materials, gauge, changes in the composition represented challenges for textiles. The exaggerated contemporary knitwear expressed sex appeal using tight-fitting effect. Contemporary knit fashion simplified the design by taking advantage of the strong elastic attributes. It showed the beauty of women, expressed variability and limitless knit characteristics beyond the conventional thinking. In addition, it has been well represented as a form of freedom, amusement and diversity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.43-53
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to show inherent and differentiated beauty by designing costume knitwear using Dancho patterns representing peculiar beauty, thus expressing free and convenient knitwear in the modern sense for women with the image of reasonableness and elegance, proposing knit design using high-class materials for satisfying the demand for the highest. With regard to expression technique of works, I selected computer Jacquard method to indicate effective comparison effect of expression material and made expression with $12{\sim}14$ gauge as base by using computer knitting machine. Through above-mentioned research process and design using Knit CAD system, I obtained following conclusion. First, it is possible to express variously and widely traditional patterns by making the most of the beauty of the orient and by recomposing the patterns of plant patterns representing "feminine image". Second, it is possible to widely represent the sense you can feel from knit by expressing variously diversity of knit structure and Jacquard knitting structure and gauge. Finally, it is possible to express designs more freely and imaginably by using computer Knit CAD system instead of actual knitting of various knit expression technique and materials application.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.6 s.59
• /
• pp.896-909
• /
• 2005

In need of studies on the kinds and structure of thread, the biggest variable factor in knitwear patterns, this study attempts: to examine the physical properties by thread type to basically establish systematic data in order to utilize various mixture and structure of yarn and to contribute to the development of optical patterns by building a systemic and scientific methods to produce knit wear patterns though a statistical analysis of the relation between the variations and physical properties. The results is as follows: with time, a feature of knit, which causes instability making it difficult to maintain the original shape, related to material properties, the weight and expansibility recovery rate have the greatest influence on the variation of wale lengths, though the amount varies by material. The variation of course contraction is closely related to density, the dense fabrics showing the highest values, due to the bust of the human body, the wale length variation of the front is greater than that of the back, by a regression analysis of material properties and the variations is obtained showing the weight, density and expansibility recovery rate have the greatest influence on the wale extension and course contraction of knit.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.11-23
• /
• 2008

니트웨어가 가지고 있는 신축성은 우븐 페브릭으로 제작한 옷과 비교했을 때, 옷을 입었을 때의 편안함과 관리의 수월함을 제공하며, 이러한 니트웨어의 특성은 현대의 라이프 스타일에 맞는 경쟁력을 가지고 있다. 현대인의 생활은 단지 일에만 치중하며 사는 것이 아니라 여행, 사회적 참여 그리고 운동 등을 하며 개개인의 삶을 더욱 중요시 여기는 형태로 변해가고 있다. 따라서 손이 많이 가고 관리하기 힘든 옷을 위해 쓰는 시간은 점점 줄어들고, 캐주얼이나 정장에 관계없이 편안하고 관리하기 쉬운 옷을 선호하며 살아가고 있다. 이러한 경향은 패션산업시장에 직접 반영되어 관리하기 쉽고 입기에 편안한 니트웨어는 패션 시장 안에서 점점 더 많은 부분을 차지하고 개발되어지고 있는 실정이다. 하지만 현재 니트웨어 시장은 니트조직을 개발하고 표현하는 데에 있어 공장의 기술자 중심으로 이루어지고 있어 제한된 스타일의 니트조직이 대부분의 시장을 차지하고 있는 실정이다. 이에 창의력을 가진 니트 디자이너와 현대인의 감수성을 만족시킬 수 있는 니트 조직의 개발은 현대 패션시장에서 매우 중요한 과제로 남아있다고 할 수 있다. 또한 CAD를 사용하는 산업용 니팅머신은 독특한 텍스추어를 가진 니트웨어의 대량 생산을 위해 꼭 필요한 아이템이라고 할 수 있다. 이러한 시대의 요구에 맞추어 연구자는 이번 연구를 통해 현재 니트웨어 시장에 나와 있는 조직과는 차별화 된 4가지 니트조직을 CAD로 디자인하고 산업용 니팅머신을 사용해 현실화하였으며, 니트웨어 디자인에 적용하여 실제의상으로 제작해 보았다. 이 연구를 통해 얻어진 결과물이 현대인의 감수성을 만족시킬 수 있는 새로운 제안으로 현재 패션시장에 받아들여졌으면 하는 바람이다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.12
• /
• pp.55-67
• /
• 1988

The purpose of this study lies in giving a help to the rational life of clothing of consumer and presenting some measures for solving problems of the marketing policy of knitwear and the searching of feasibility of the women's knitwear market. The results of this study are as follows; 1. The characteristics of each brand is not clearly introduced to the consumer. This is owing to the lack of the establishment of the policy that emphasize the special feature of each brand. 2. The target of brand almost coincides real consumer, but fashion mood and age group are declined to specific area. So, the scarcity of casual and young age brand is prominent. 3. All brand ought to treat design as the supreme priority other than anything else on the product differentiation strategy dispite the characteristics of the brand. 4. The distribution centered department store is observed very desirable in this study. 5. According to the result of the consmer's behaviors, it has been clarified that display is the most effective sale promotion. 6. Consumer is used to make improvised decision making in the purchasing activities. Thus, it is required to improve consumer's ability of appraisal for quality and material and to establish the calculable, rational consumption pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.41 no.7
• /
• pp.185-200
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fitness using the draft method to develop moderate-stretch knit block pattern for young women in Korea. The subjects were three women within the range of the ages from 18 to 24 showing the average body figures. In this study, 4 different patterns were drafted for the moderate stretch knitted fabrics, that were categorised into two different types. The first type of these was made up for kilted fabrics and the other was initially drafted for woven fabrics and altered for knitted materials afterward. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows; 1. According to each sensory evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, knit block patterns A and D were the better than the rest of them. 2. Knit block patterns A and D with higher evaluation scores were drafted with body size measurements except the waist line, whereas patterns B and C with relatively lower scores were produced including the smaller ease amounts than the woven block pattern. 3. To see the results of the functional test based on the designed ten motions for this experiment, knit block patterns A and B were concluded as better than the rest of them. In addition, concerning the arm liking motions, pattern B was scored as the best among the developed patterns.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.124-137
• /
• 2020

The need for customized products has also been increasing as more active consumers consume according to their values in recent years. Accordingly, fashion customizing web is becoming popular, but because custom freedom is low, we want to increase custom freedom by applying knitwear. To this end, a theoretical review was conducted through prior research and literature research on customization, knit design, and GUI, and based on this, a case analysis was conducted focusing on knit-making programs and fashion customizing web. Knit designs have more considerations than other fashion design process, resulting in more UIs, so users should use visual elements that are easily recognizable. Therefore, a draft assessment item was derived based on the preceding survey and three Delphi surveys were conducted on experts based on the draft. Each item was modified and deleted during the Delphi research process to produce the Custom Knitware Web GUI Design Guide. Through this study, we were able to identify the need for intuitive understanding and application of knit custom functions in GUI design of custom knitwear web. Through this research, it is expected that this data will be used to improve the usability of custom knitwear websites and to refer to knit design fields that utilize knit machines.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.5 s.114
• /
• pp.58-71
• /
• 2007

This study conducted a survey to find out atopic dermatitis patients' required performance and preference in design factors to develop spring/summer(S/S) knitwears preferred by atopic patients. On the platform of achieved information from statistical analysis, S/S knitwear samples for atopic patients were designed and constructed with cotton/Seacell(R) blended yarn, And subjective wearing sensation were evaluated comparing the samples and the commercial products made with cotton/chitosan blended yarn, trying to help producing more comfortable S/S knitwears for atopic patients. SPSS 12.0 program was used for frequency analysis, Chi-square analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; For comfort of S/S knitwears, atopic patients most considered skin care property. Atopic patients preferred simple and basic knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. The preferred style was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease'. They also preferred 'closed front'; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib' structure. Male preferred simple and plain style with 'round collar' and 'tubular or rib trim", while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with 'set-in sleeve' with 'rib trim'. Under the circumstances with insufficient functional knitwears developed, this study tried to develop comfort S/S knitwears for atopic dermatitis patients and the developed knitwears showed as good as or better performance in wearing feeling, fitting, and appearance than the previously developed functional goods.