• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.124-137
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• 2020

최근 가치관에 따라 소비하는 능동적인 소비자가 증가함 따라 커스터마이징 제품의 니즈도 증가하고 있는데, 이중에서도 자신의 개성을 전면적으로 표현할 수 있는 패션분야의 커스터마이징 시장이 커지고 있다. 이에 따라 패션 커스터마이징 웹이 대중화 되고 있지만, 커스텀 자유도가 낮기 때문에 니트웨어를 접목하여 커스텀 자유도를 높이고자한다. 이를 위해 커스터마이징, 니트디자인, GUI에 대한 선행연구와 문헌 조사를 통해 이론적 고찰을 하였고, 이를 바탕으로 니트디자인 프로그램과 패션 커스터마이징 웹의 레이아웃, 아이콘과 메뉴, 컬러, 인터렉션을 중심으로 사례 분석을 했다. 니트디자인은 다른 패션디자인 과정보다 고려사항이 많아 그에 따른 UI가 많아지기 때문에 사용자가 쉽게 인식할 수 있는 시각적 요소를 사용해야한다. 따라서 선행조사를 바탕으로 커스텀 니트웨어 GUI디자인 가이드라인 초안을 도출하고, 초안을 기반으로 전문가를 대상으로 3차례의 델파이 조사를 실시하였다. 각 항목은 델파이 조사과정에서 수정, 삭제하여 커스텀 니트웨어 웹 GUI디자인 가이드라인을 제작했다. 본 연구 결과를 통해 커스텀 니트웨어 웹의 GUI디자인 시 니트 커스텀 기능의 직관적 이해와 적용이 필요함을 파악할 수 있었다. 본 연구를 통해 커스텀 니트웨어 웹사이트의 사용성 향상과 니팅머신을 활용한 니트 디자인 분야에 참고할 만한 자료로 기대된다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권12호
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• pp.1924-1934
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• 2009

현대사회의 혼합화 현상과 니트웨어의 수요 증가에 따른 독특한 질감이 요구되어지고 있어 이에 따른 전략적인 방안들이 절실히 요구되고 있다. 본 연구는 세계 4대 컬렉션의 2000~2008년의 여성컬렉션의 횡편 니트 3~8게이지의 자료를 선정, 현대 니트패션에 나타난 혼합현상을 출현 빈도와 표현특성으로 분석하였다. 혼합현상은 상 하위문화의 혼합, 남 여 성의 혼합, 스타일의 혼합, 공간의 혼합, 타소재의 혼합, 기능의 혼합의 순으로 나타났으며, 2004년에 가장 높은 빈도수를 나타냈다. 혼합현상의 표현특성에서 가장 높은 빈도수를 나타낸 상 하위문화의 혼합은 고급스러운 소재, 고상한 무늬와 색상의 상 하위개념의 경계성의 모호와 남 여 성의 혼합은 기능성과 편리성의 추구와 양성성의 공유로 특성을 나타냈다. 스타일의 혼합은 니트패션의 전통적인 형태에서 정형과 비정형의 스타일의 혼합으로 특성을 나타냈고, 공간의 혼합은 니트의 역사가 깊은 북유럽의 전통적 니트문양이 현대적인 요소와 혼합된 특성을 나타내고 있었다. 타소재의 혼합은 장식적인 소재와 본래의 기능적인 용도를 초월하여 부분적으로 혼합되었고, 기능의 혼합은 두 가지 아이템의 용도로 활용 가능한 특성을 나타냈다. 이와 같이 현대 니트패션에 나타난 혼합 현상은 타영역의 혼합으로 상상력이 더해져 그 표현 가능성의 범위가 점차 확대되어 가고 있다.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.87-102
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• 2004

By introducing Mondrian's creative world into the field of fashion design, I examined how its application can satisfy not only visual expressions but also the desire of fashion design for its simplicity, individuality, and sensitivity. As a program developing designs and guiding how to produce, the textile CAD system helps to develop a variety of textile systems. In case of dying or textile printing, a variety of free expressions of print patterns and functional color simulations are possible by the configuration of colors or enlargement of design. It can also confirm the flexible simulation with a variety of color changes through the monitor by treating the knit design with dots. Especially in case of consulting for the design with ordering customers, the system is very speedy and effective, because it is possible to correct on the spot those complicated elements of designs and color sensation and see the prints in the light of marketing, processing and artistic value. Mondrian's Art, beauty of balance and proportion in the Mondrian's plastic forms, the changes of coloring and texture were added into vertical and horizontal lines and the divisions of faces for the dressmaking. Whether they were the reciprocal action of human body, texture and color or the reciprocal action of human body and colors, these changes will be interpreted differently, depending on the individuals' experiences and psychological moods of situations. The emphases of the sense are also different, depending on the activity and functionality.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.91-106
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.751-765
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to apply the Trencadis images in Antony Gaudi's work to a design motive and thus provide a new concept for a knitwear design by combining double-knitted fabrics with patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting. This study examines the bibliographic text and precedent research related to Antony Gaudi and his works, and analyzes the historical background and formative and stylistic characteristics of Trencadis as it appeared in Gaudi's architectural works. Also this study also examines the characteristics of knitwear and knitting theory while exploring the formative elements and the combined techniques used in modern knitwear design through fashion magazines, medium images, and online sources. The results are as follows: First, Gaudi's work that applies a Trencadis technique has the characteristic of being creative, organic, and environmentally friendly. And in addition, its colorfulness inspires modern fashion design. Second, computerized knitting has been practiced in various ways and the fabrics knitted by both double-knitting jacquard and computerized knitting machines provide a new direction the creation of knitwear. A computerized knitting machine is especially effective for pictorial expression, and is suitable for showing the natural curve of the human body due to its sophistication. Third, as a result of applying a combined technique to the knitting of various fabrics, a combined or fusion design, which is a recent megatrend, is very effective for the design of knitwear while increasing its aesthetic value. Moreover, utilizing techniques that combine patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting will create higher value in knitwear. Lastly, with a project of applying combined techniques in the creation of knitwear, designers can become much more creative while taking their imagination much further.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.677-684
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• 2016

This study was done for the proposal for improvement for junior sportswear which is substitutable as uniforms in the form of elementary school and physical education uniforms by analyzing detailed features through investigation. Accordingly, we developed a prototype design for physical education uniforms as a symbol of the school to enhance the aesthetic and functional satisfaction. The results are as follows. When we developed physical education uniforms, we put activity on our first priority while taking the improvement in both aesthetic and functional aspects into consideration. In addition, we tried to make sure the uniforms reflect the refined and trendy elements to meet students needs to satisfy their aesthetic sense in dress. Reflecting the improvement proposals and preferences of the students, six different prototype designs were developed and evaluated on the basis of two concepts of "new basic" and "trendy". The highest ranking, the physical education uniforms design 1 is based on new basic concept and characterized with slim fit considering activity which will be worn as fall/winter physical education uniforms. Design 1 uses ottoman functional knit as a fabric material which is not only students favorite but also good in both flexibility and warmth. Top with style of high-neckline collar and full open zip-up is simplified with the incision lines and detail. It is a set-in sleeve design in which blue and yellow collars signifying school color are properly placed along with the incision lines in harmony.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2013

This study analyzed the expressive characteristics of padding in contemporary fashion. The methodology of this study was quantified through documentaries, fashion collections, and internet news. The results of expressive characteristics and methods were as follow. First, variability showed the creation of dwelling space by air filling, detail mode by zipper, and diversity of recycled filling by zipper pocket. It reflected the pursuit of nomadism and subversion of permanence by change of filling. Second, it was sexual symbolicity that showed the blurred androgynous silhouette by air filling and padding bar design of the chest, stomach, shoulder for the male body silhouette. It emphasized male sexual identity and power through the expression of a modern ideal body. Third, decoration displayed various crafts (such as knitting), various fabric such as polapolis, suedette, corduroy, denim, leather, knit, and spangle. It reflected visual pleasure, scarcity and various interpretations. Fourth, playfulness character forms throug hair filling, unfamiliar fashion items, diversity of silhouette and change of uses. It reflected a pleasant feeling through astonishment and surprise, nostalgia involved in memory and childhood play and disembarrassment from reality. Fifth, simplicity showed the elimination of a sportswear's factor with regular wad quilting, elimination of wad quilting, wad quilting following the structural line of clothes and the structual line of clothes omitted. It reflected disembarrassment from stereotype and an emphasis on essential elements.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.121-135
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• 1998

The purpose of this thesis is to study the social and cultural background and characteristic of neo-classicism which appered in the modern fashion of the pluralistic society of the latter half of 20th century to understand that the product of societh such as fashion mode reflects the situation of society and culture. For this purpose, documentary studies about the concept and background of neo-classicism, were preceded, and analyzed the occurrence background and characteristic of neo-classicism of the modern fashion after the 1980's, which showed up in post-modernism fashion. The characteristics of neo-classicism expressed in modern fashion is as follows; First, they are expressed in modern fashion in forms of simplicity by means of minimizing process of sewing or ornamenting and deletion of dart. Second, retro-style in terms of concerning of the past, is featured in various styles of Greco-roman drapery and expresed in forms of mixing clothing elements of modern and classic in modern times. Third, the trend of ecology in terms of interest of the nature and the thought that the spiritual world is more important than the material world. It is expressed by using natural elements adn natural materials, which wanted to get the nature and human into one and search for the losed nature of modern men. Fourth, the pursuit of the beauty of the human body, is expressed in forms of body-prioity style through using see-through or elastic materials, which is knit, lycra, spandex, etc. In conclusion, we can recognize that the social product reflects social and cultural situation. And the characteristic of neo-classicism has the meaning of harmonizing the human and nature and the returing the humanity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.796-809
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• 2014

This study identifies formativeness and the Korean consciousness of the vernacular design in a Korean designers' collection in order to discover the internal characteristics of vernacular expression elements. The study is based on a theoretical review and an analysis of cases collected from Korean fashion designers' clothes. Research is limited to international collections of clothes presented by Korean fashion designers since 2,000. The process of Korean vernacular designs in fashion were analyzed for formativeness in form, color, pattern and detail. The research findings identified formativeness and Korean's consciousness of modern fashion designs that reflect vernacular designs as follows. First, they are round, flexible line and shape based on assimilated with nature, rhythmic curve to express life force and asymmetry based on an ecstatic world based on nature. Second, a white color explained the pure mind and racial peculiarities in regards to the five colors that expressed the thinking of traditional rituals such as prayers for comfort of life and ancestor worship. Third, there were patterns around shape of nature, praying, and Korea culture. Finally, there were skills of Korean traditional handcrafts such as embroideries, knit-works, gold foils, and quilts where clothes expressed the hardship of life and strong willpower to overcome. In conclusion, the clothing of Korean vernacular designs contains characteristics such as natural beauty, decorativeness, shamanism, and eclecticism.