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Standardization and Evaluation of Performance Textiles through the Consumer's On-line Reviews - Focused on Summer Knit Shirts Containing Cellulose Fibers - (인터넷 구매후기를 통한 의류제품 소재평가표준화와 소재성능평가 - 셀룰로오스 섬유를 함유한 여름용 니트 티셔츠를 중심으로 -)

  • Kwak, Soo-Kyung;Lee, Ji-Yeon;Park, Myung-Ja
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.18 no.2
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    • pp.177-190
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    • 2016
  • On-line consumer reviews are good references for consumers to evaluate and buy apparel products. The objective of this study is to facilitate communication about performance textiles between consumers and merchandisers who buy and sell apparel products on online. The survey was based on standardizing words used in consumer reviews written after purchase of summer knit t-shirts at internet shopping mall and evaluating the performance textiles including cellulose fibers. We collected reviews of five sorts of the clothing products including cotton/modal, tencel/polyurethane, polyester/rayon, linen, cotton and selected 1000 reviews related to textiles. For classifying each word used in the reviews by the performance textiles, they were quantified applying same standards. The results were as follow: First, the standard for consumer to consider importantly was tactile sensation, appearance, pilling, thickness, dimensional stability in washing. Second, the important category of performance textiles was healthy-comfort and psychological-comfort. Third, there were difference performance textiles for consumer to recognize, e.g. cotton/modal was important to air-permeability, tencel/polyurethane was noticed about tactile sensation, polyester/rayon was perceived about pilling unlike other things, linen had a problem of clothing care-convenience, then cotton was familiar fiber to important for appearance. The last, consumers usually focused on writing the most positive or negative online reviews. Although not familiar with professional terminologies, consumers are sensitive to physical properties of textiles. Therefore, standardizing and evaluating performance textiles are expected to improve satisfaction as providing objective information to consumers considering in buying apparel products at online shopping mall and increase in revenue to manufacturer.

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A Study on the Formativeness of Materials of Man′Fashion in 1990′s (1990년대 남성복 소재에 나타난 조형성에 관한 연구)

  • 이효진;류근영
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.6
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    • pp.806-821
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    • 2000
  • Each and everything named fashion together with clothes were limited in the boundary of women and men's wear has been slow and narrow in changing speed compared to women's, even there are some differences in accordance time. But maintaining the basic features, men's wear in the latter 20th century has undergone diverse change in the part of materials such as various synthetic fiber, glass, metal, artificial leather and the see-through fabric able to seeing the body wearing the clothes. Therefore, the aim and definition of this study is to present the systematic framework giving help to develop men's wear design newer and more various by considering moulding of materials which existing men's wear could not show up and by grasping material trend of men's clothes in 1990s. The results of the study were summarized as follows : (1) Material containing lustering is categorized as Velvet, Silk, Lustering materials by synthetic fiber and Lustering materials by additional substance. The Velvet generally acknowledged having something to feel womanly image shows the bisexual character coexisting feature of men and women after grafting with men'fashion. The Silk was endowed the role as means of pleasure to express beyond boundary of sex breaking the existing consciousness which men should wear male clothes, not considering differences between men and women. The lustering made by synthetic fiber expressed modern sensitivity aesthetically to the suit. The lustering materials made by additional substance is seen mixed masculine character with womanly character. (2) See-through materials are acknowledged as decadence beauty caused by expanding subjective awareness in beauty. (3) Materials by the sorts of Net is categorized as Lace, Knit The Lace expression seemed to emphases the human liberation of men and women and the humanity from liberation of subjecthood. The Knit can be felt both woman's image and man's image as bisexual image, not raising only one side sex. (4) Elastic materials offered the opportunity to approve exposure in a time when exposure of men's body was not granted ethically. (5) Leather was shown as indication of social status and inferiority and expression of collective resistance against sexual stagnation of men and women.

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A Study on the Analysis of Aesthetic Shape Shown on the Modern Flat Patterned Clothing (현대 평면의에 나타난 형태미에 관한 연구)

  • Kwen, Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.7 s.107
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    • pp.115-125
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    • 2006
  • The study on plane composition in clothing was focused mainly on woven wear earlier but its application has been reaching the knit wear. This study is confined to the utilization with geometrical linear pattern in the modern apparel. The work here intends to grasp the plane structure found in both woven wear and knit wear and, in particular, to understand the aesthetics of fashion. The modern flat patterned clothing has been affected by the oriental style or postmodernism in view of social and cultural aspect while its fabric material and expression method shows the diversity in terms of industrial and technical aspect. It can be characterized as several outstanding patterns: the geometrical pattern in structure, the linear pattern with seam line and 2-dimensional plane pattern without seam line, and the flexible silhouette integrated into one single shape with human body unlike the traditional apparel The aesthetics of fashion in modern flat patterned clothing can be divided into such category as the organically spatial change, the re-creation of tradition and the non-format framework. The organically spatial change shows the geometrical formation in clothes due to change in dimension, where the organically changing uniformity and generosity appears as the dimension progresses. The timeless without any difference of up and down, left and right, and inside and outside and the discontinuity due to limitless spatial change are also imbedded. The re-creation of tradition tells the reshaped spirits of old tradition by integrating and modifying the hereditary features in the old customed clothing into modern clothing. The modern flat patterned clothing implies the contemporaneousness or the frame through which the old and modern cultures may be shared and indicates the re-creation of the past and uniformity. The non-format framework contains the uncertainty in meaning and it doesn't have any certain standards. As both the apparel and the human body with this style aim at the open space, the numerous contingencies are realized.

Designing Knitwear with Aran Motives - In Search of Spatial Continuity Theory with Its Application - (아란모티프를 응용한 니트웨어 디자인 - 공간적 연속성 이론을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Yoon-Mee;JeKal, Mee;Jang, Jung-Im;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.12
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    • pp.1971-1980
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to explore the meaning and depth of traditional knitwears, and to develop knitwear designs by using Aran motif, one of major motifs of traditional knitwears and on the basis of the 'continuance' theory of Henri Bergson and Jill Deleuze. Connectivity, the sense of space and deconstructive fluidity-basic concepts of the continuance theory-are felt in such forms as pleats, origami, and air pumping systems, blob and twisting used in the modem fashion. The motif of Aran knitwear which has a long historical tradition can be reinterpreted in terms of those concepts of the continuance theory. In this study, we designed five pieces of knitwear while applying cable motif, an important motif of Aran knitwear, and the concepts of the continuance theory to them. This study will make a contribution to the designing of knit wears through reinterpretation of a traditional motif in terms of a modem philosophical thought.

Research on the Actual Condition of Shape and Material of Peanut-Shaped Cloth Diaper for Baby (유아용 땅콩형 천기저귀의 형태 및 소재에 관한 실태 조사)

  • Lee, Jung-Soon;Koo, Mi-Ran
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.57-71
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    • 2010
  • This study is to understand the actual condition of design and material of peanut-shaped diaper with looking at the types and characteristics of baby cloth diapers and domestic peanut-shaped diapers registered in the Patent Office. Furthermore, it is to suggest the basic data for designing more functional and comfortable cloth diapers. Here are the research result on the actual condition of design and material of baby cloth diapers. Firstly, 11 cloth diapers registered in the Patent Office can be divided into panty-shaped and straight line-shaped diapers. There are 7 kinds of panty-shaped cloth diapers which satisfy both the convenience of a disposable diaper and sanitation of a cloth diaper, and 4 kinds of straight line-shaped cloth diapers that minimize the weaknesses of existing cloth diapers. Secondly, domestic peanut-shaped cloth diapers can be divided into peanut-shaped, inserted, winged, velcro-attached diapers. Among 23 kinds of peanut-shaped cloth diapers from 16 companies, there are 12 kinds of peanut-shaped diapers which consist of layers of cloth to make peanut shape. There are 6 kinds of inserted diapers that insert extra diapers or handkerchiefs in between two sheets of cloth diapers and 3 kinds of winged diapers designed to shorten drying time with sawing only one side of several layered sheets. Also, there are 2 kinds of velcro-attached diapers that are removable according to the amount of excreta. Commonly used materials are cotton woven of diamond jacquard and knit of diamond Hole Stitch or Plain Stitch. And for handing the edge of diaper, the method of wrapping up the edge with cotton woven or knit bias is used.

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A Study of Wearing Condition and Fit Preference Satisfaction for Females 20s-30s of Jackets - Focusing on circular knitted jackets and woven jackets - (20~30대 여성의 재킷 착용실태 및 맞음새 만족도 연구 - 환편니트 재킷과 우븐 재킷을 중심으로-)

  • Hwang, Song-Lee;Choi, Hei-Sun;Lee, Jin Hee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.15 no.4
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    • pp.596-605
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    • 2013
  • This study investigates the wearing trend and purchase facts for adult females in their 20s and 30s along with their fitting satisfaction for woven jackets and circular knitted jackets. A questionnaire survey on consumers investigated satisfaction with jackets according to clothing materials and repair trend after wearing. Subsequently, a preference for circular knitted jackets was shown higher than woven jackets. Females in their 20s preferred woven jackets than those in their 30s; however, the latter preferred circular knitted jackets than the former. For woven jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with size; however, for circular knitted jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with fitting. In the question on their satisfaction by jacket part, satisfaction with circular knitted jackets was higher in all items except for bust measurement, bottom edge measurement, elbow circumference, shoulder width, and clothes length. Circular knitted jackets had lower repair rates than woven jackets and woven jackets had significant differences by age in satisfaction with back width. The research results indicate that females in their 20s and 30s who value fit preference and practicality will increasingly wear knit clothes. Therefore, we can address the fitting satisfaction requirement of females in their 20s and 30s by taking the clothing material properties of circular knitted clothes into consideration. In addition, further research is required on jacket patterns in consideration of clothing materials.

Knitting Plan of Silver Knitted Fabrics for Providing Multi-Functional Properties (Part I) -Studies on the Mechanical Properties and Hand of Silver Knitted Fabrics for Summer- (복합기능성을 부여하기 위한 은 니트 소재의 설계 (제1보) -여름용 은 니트 소재의 역학적 특성 및 태에 관한 연구-)

  • Kwon Young-Ah;Park Jong-Sik
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.6 s.154
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    • pp.870-879
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    • 2006
  • In this study, the difference in the mechanical properties of silver and cotton weft knitted fabrics was studied. Six silver fabrics for the summer ladies' knit outwear were knitted varying knit structure and fabric density. Two commercial cotton knitted fabrics were selected to compare the properties. subjective sensation of hand of the fabrics was also studied. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(THV) was carried out according to the KW-304 Summer. The result of the research show that silver weft knitted fabrics had lower LT, RT, G, 2HG and higher EM, W, LC, WC, RC than cotton weft knitted fabrics. The use of silver yam contributed to increase in surface roughness of knitted fabrics. As the silver knitted fabrics became thicker compressional energy increased. The use of silver yarns contributed to much better fabric handle compared with the use of cotton yam only. It appeared that coefficient of friction of tuck stitch was larger than that of plain and interlock stitch. KOSHI and FUKURAMI values of the tuck samples were significantly higher than those values of the plain and interlock samples, while SHARI values were low in general. The total hand value of tuck stitch was higher than those of interlock and plain stitch.

Prototype Torso Pattern for Circular Knit using Virtual Garment Software (가상착의에 의한 환편물 상의의 패턴 설계 방법 연구)

  • Kim, Hyeong Jin;Kim,, Yeo-Sook
    • The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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    • v.22 no.1
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    • pp.53-61
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    • 2011
  • We have made knitwear in a different way from the typical woven pattern; it does not have the dart, even for women's tops. The purpose of this research was to compare the fit and appearance of the torso pattern for circular knitted fabric between virtual try-on garments and real garments. First, a woman in her 20's was scanned by a 3D body scanner, and thus producing a virtual avatar. I prepared knit patterns and created a torso pattern appropriate for circular knitted fabric. Next, I measured the body size of the avatar. The 2D patterns for the torso and sleeves were developed using the Yuka Super ALPHA : Plus. The 3D virtual garments were made from the imported 2D patterns and were then tried on the 3D virtual avatars. Finally, the fit of the real garments and the virtual garments was compared. While the shape of the virtual try-on garments were similar to the real garments, the folding and sagging were different. This study found the length was the same as woven wear. However the actual bust size and the clothing size were the same which is not a typical characteristic of woven wear. In the case of hem measurement, more space was needed than actual body size but less space was needed than in woven patterns.

A Study on the Origins and the History of Knitting (Knits의 기원과 발달과정에 관한고찰)

  • 이순홍
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.45
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    • pp.85-102
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.

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A Survey Research on the Kindergarten Uniform Design - Focused on Suncheon Area - (유치원복 디자인에 관한 실태 조사 - 순천지역을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Sun Young
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.681-695
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    • 2014
  • This study has the purpose to find basic materials for development of kindergarten's uniform and suggest the improvement of its design based on the survey results from Suncheon area in Jeollanam-do of Korea. Such study methods were conducted as literature review, survey with direct visit, interview, and photographing of dresses regarding the kindergarten uniform. The following are research results. First, kindergarten teachers presented a positive opinion about the necessity for children to wear the uniform. In selection of design, they regarded the activity as most important factor. Kindergartens applying active wear compatible as townwear also accounted for 57.1%, which is more than half. Second, the formal wear, in the winter season was found to consist with jacket or knit cardigan, knit vest, shirts, skirts or pants, and necktie. For color, most of them are in dark tone, which need to be brighter. For pattern, they are in plain color, which needs to have various patterns. As to the cloth material, such problems should be improved as warmth retentivity in consideration of seasonal nature, moisture retentivity, breathability, color retentivity when washing, and harmless to human body. Third, active wear is mostly the casual sportswear type. But it has no characteristic unique to kindergarten in design and needs to be altered for differentiated design. Especially, it is simply divided into winter wear and summer wear in kind. Therefore, it is required to have differentiation for seasonal characteristic and diversity in number of item and improvement in terms of cloth material.