• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.82-97
• /
• 2016

This study attempted to summarize the characteristics of fashion in the 1930s which were the background of 'Bonnie and Clyde' and analyze how fashion in the 1930s was expressed through costume in the movie, focusing on some critical scenes. For this, previous studies and domestic & foreign books, magazines and DVDs relating to movie costume were examined. For analysis of movie costume, 'Bonnie and Clyde (1967)' DVD was referred to. In the movie, meaningful scenes were captured using a GOM Player. Then, the study results found the followings: First, in terms of women's fashion in the 1930s, adult look and slim & long silhouette which naturally revealed breast, waist and hip with a long skirt, a military look with strong shoulders and tailored costume were found. In terms of men's fashion, in contrast, the Duke of Windsor Style (a slim silhouette jacket and loose pants) was popular. Second, in the movie, Bonnie's costume started with a slim linen H-line dress at her first meeting with Clyde. While committing crimes and becoming a famous gangster, she displayed the fashion styles which were in vogue in the 1930s such as fancy and luxurious slim dress, tailored suit and trench coat. Third, in terms of Clyde's costume, from his first meeting with Bonnie to his first crime, he put on common costume (ex: pants, vest, shirts, etc.) which revealed his open and unconventional character. After he became a famous gangster, he would wear the Duke of Windsor style (jacket, vest and pants). The study results well describe movie costume's role as visual language which expresses characters' inner circumstances and outer situations that reflect socio-cultural background.

• Tribology and Lubricants
• /
• v.30 no.4
• /
• pp.234-239
• /
• 2014

Magneto-rheological elastomer (MR elastomer) is a smart material, because it has mechanical properties that change under a magnetic field. An MR elastomer changes its stiffness characteristics when the inner particles (iron particles) align along the direction of a magnetic field. There has been much research to make use of this characteristic to control vibration issues in various mechanical systems, such as for mounting systems in the automotive field, home appliances, etc. Furthermore, the friction and wear properties of MR elastomer have been studied, as these relate to the durability of the material needed to meet engineering requirements. Rolling friction (or rolling resistance) is one of these friction properties, but has not yet been studied in the context of MR elastomers. In this study, an MR elastomer is fabricated in the shape of a hollow cylinder to evaluate the rolling friction characteristic under a magnetic field. The test apparatus is setup and a strain gauge is used to calculate the rolling resistance under test conditions. Permanent magnets are used to supply the magnetic field during tests. The load and rolling speed conditions are also considered for the tests. The test results show that rolling friction characteristic has a different trend under different magnetic field, load, and rolling speed conditions. It is assumed that the stiffness change of an MR elastomer under a magnetic field has an effect on the rolling friction characteristic of the MR elastomer. For the future work, the rolling friction characteristics of MR elastomers will be controlled by adjusting the strength of the magnetic field using electromagnets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.36
• /
• pp.121-137
• /
• 1998

This paper is a study of clothing recorded in$\boxDr$Shin Ching$\boxUl$.$\boxDr$Shin Ching$\boxUl$is the oldest poetry, which written in early west-Zhou to mid Spring and Autumn Period. In this book, clothing is classified with men's women's and fabrics. But only the men's costume is included in this paper, and others will be studied later. As a result, men's clothing includes Qui, Mian Fu, Bian Fu, Yi Shang, Po, Ze, the armour, the belt ornaments, the hair ornaments and the hair styles, the shoes. 1. Qui is depicted at 11 poetries. It's materials are sheep, wolf, bear etc. The materials and color are differentiated according to the class. 2. Mian Fu is depicted at 20 poetries. There are depictions about the embroidered black garment and a red skirt, and also about inner blouse, Chong er, Chi xi etc. 3. Bian Fu is depicted at 5 poetries and there are three types. 4. Yi Shang is depicted at 9 poetries and classified with two types. One is twp piece style, and the other is one pieced style. 5. Po and Ze is depicted at 1 poetry. Po is sa long coat with lining and Ze is a under-wear. The armour and the helmet are depicted at 2 poetries. 6. The belt ornaments are classified with two styles. One is decorational and the other is practical. At 7 poetries they are depicted. 7. The hair ornaments includes a hat and a hair style. Also, the shoes are depicted and there are two styles. Such a results can clarify the men's costumes of Zhou and may be a raw datas about the costumes of old China.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.4
• /
• pp.165-180
• /
• 2000

Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.7 no.1
• /
• pp.22-31
• /
• 2007

The systematic study of the future began with curiosity and imagination about the future; a unique trait of human mental effort-and this seems to be based on the idea that the future can be different depending on current choices or effort. In this sense, it would be seemly to encourage more interest and academic study on the progress of future fashion. In this study, we examine recent changes of fashion material; e.g. that which science and technology have more impact and importance in futuristic fashion since the 1990�s. The period analysed is from the1990's to the present and related data from recent fashion collections and fashion books has also been included The current prediction of the future is largely based on what was formed between the 19th Century and the 20th Century which has persisted until now and has been influenced by the view that science will play a bigger role in the future. This is especially reflected in fashion which chiefly represents material culture. New materials used for fashion are strong and permanently durable, in addition to being very light, thin, flexible, hygienic, ecological and comfortable to wear-almost like a second skin. These fashionable new materials roughly function in two different ways according to external and internal characteristics. First, they cause external change. Second, they exemplify or allow new functions. Examples of external change are the use of silver color, achromatic color, metallic material, smooth-to-the-touch shiny material and the use of luminous material. Examples of the extended function of clothing through the use of new materials are the use of conducting thread, the use of special material for blocking & opening and the use of material which changes colors as the surroundings change. These days, the use of new material which changes its appearance is a novelty unique to the fashion world but we also expect to witness the debut of diverse new materials with extended inner functions.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers A
• /
• v.24 no.12
• /
• pp.2989-2994
• /
• 2000

A mechanical face seal is a tribo-element intended to control leakage of working fluid at the interface of a rotating shaft and its housing. Leakage of working fluid decreases drastically as the clearance between mating seal faces gets smaller. But the very small clearance may result in an increased reduction of seal life because of high wear and heat generation. Therefore, in the design of mechanical face seals a compromise between low leakage and acceptable seal life is important, ant it present a difficult and practical design problem. A fluid film or sealing dam geometry of the seal clearance affects seal lubrication performance very much, and thereby is optimization is one of the main design consideration. in this study the Reynolds equation for the sealing dam of mechanical face seals is numerically analyzed, using the Galerkin finite element method, which is readily applied to various seal geometries, to give lubrication performances, such as opening force, restoring moment, leakage, and axial and angular stiffness coefficients. Then, to improve the seal performance an optimization is performed, considering various design variables simultaneously. For the tested case the optimization ha successfully resulted in the optimal design values of outer and inner seal radii, coning, seal clearance, and balance radius while satisfying all the operation subjected constraints and design variable side-constraints, and improvements of axial and angular stiffness coefficients by 16.8% and 2.4% respectively and reduction of leakage by 38.4% have been achieved.

• Archives of Plastic Surgery
• /
• v.38 no.1
• /
• pp.63-68
• /
• 2011

Purpose: Mastectomy is one of the operative procedures of female to male transsexuals. It is aimed to excise all of breast tissues and to reconstruct male chest wall, areola, and nipple. Breast sizes are varied by developmental status and their hormonal therapy. There are several approaches for mastectomy. This study is aimed to suggest appropriate mastectomy methods according to breast size in the female to male transgenders. Methods: We retrospectively analysed 46 patients of female to male transgenders. Breast size was categorized by their inner wear size. In A cup size, mastectomy was done with periareolar approach. In C cup size, inframammary fold approach subcutaneous mastectomy was performed. In B cup size, periareolar approach was used for grade A or B ptosis patient, and inframammary fold approach was choosen for the patient with grade C ptosis. Results: Subcutaneous mastectomy was done through semicircular periareolar approach for 26 patients. There were 2 cases of major complications that should be corrected by hematoma evacuation. Circumareolar approach was used for 5 patients, and a case of nipple-areolar complex necrosis was observed. Two cases of another complications which were irregularity of breast and wound disruption could be corrected. Inframammary fold approach was selected for 15 patients. There was a case of wound disruption, so revision surgery whould be done. Four cases of breast irregularity was corrected spontaneously, and 2 cases of partial necrosis of nipple-areolar complex were corrected with secondary healing. Patient satisfaction score for periareolar, cicumareolar, and inframmammary fold approach were 4.5, 4.2 and 4.1, respectively. Some major and minor complications were observed, but satisfactory results could be secured. Conclusion: Semicircular periareolar incision looked adequate for A cup size patient, circumareolar incision was suitable for B cup size with grade A or B ptosis. In B cup size with grade C ptosis patient and C cup patients, inframammary fold incision looked suitable for optimal results.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.3
• /
• pp.395-407
• /
• 2008

As global interest in clothing spreads over the smart clothing which arouses high added-value in the apparel industry, this study is to develop a smart jacket with an electrically-vibrating device maintaining excellent appearance and comfort. The vibrating device has a massage function that could relieve muscle pain near shoulders and neck. The purposes of this research are to develop jacket pattern for men in their thirties considering body shapes and fashion trend, to develop a wearable device that is composed of motor and controller and integrate it into a jacket, and to assess the external appearance and functional satisfaction of the smart jacket through the wearing test. The results are as follows: 1. In order to develope an appropriate jacket pattern for men in their thirties, several patterns were assessed for their fitting comfort. The final pattern was completed after making alterations some parts, and showed high satisfaction as 3.6(on a five-point scale) in all categories. 2. A vibrating device was developed by connecting motor, controller, battery and switch. Developing this device, focus was maximizing the strength of motor and minimizing the heat generated from motor and controller. Snaps were placed between inner and outer cloth of jacket so that the vibrating device could be easily attachable and detachable. The motor was located around Trapezius where muscles often get stiff. A switch was designed to be used in selecting the modes of Strong, Weak, and Cross Tapping. 3. The wearing test was conducted to examine outer appearance, comfort for motion, and functionality of the smart jacket. The results of assessing outer appearance showed that the location for attaching the vibrating device was not noticeable but looked natural, and there is almost no change in outer appearance when the vibrating device operates. The result of assessing comfort of action revealed that wearer's satisfaction was high in all categories about activity, wearer's comfort, etc. The result also showed that wear's satisfaction for effects of vibrating massage, easiness in using the device, heat generation was not less than 3.5 in all categories except a category about noise.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.3
• /
• pp.362-372
• /
• 2008

The remarkable tendency shown in recent fashion can be the customer's passiveness, not only their feeling desire for product but also needs for product seem to be made by mass media. So this condition can be thought as the currency of energy for being subjected. The public of fashion eagerly want the fashion style to be suggested for following it. The late Freudian, Erich Fromm said that the reason why individuals demand themselves to follow the masses' move could be explained as the hope against the fear of feeling not being from staying isolated and having no direction. Escaping from this fear, individuals ought to believe the necessity of participation in public. The fashion is willing to be defined as the united condition by individuals in the hope being consolidate in masses against being solitude. Nowadays, people can share many informations with internet, the fastest medium, which makes the individuals impatient not to be isolate, thinking other people must contact the information and should feel pressure of taking part in the currency. Even though the style is considered to be awkward for following it, it's frequent exposure on mass media by celebrities wearing the style could soon make a fashion. This is able to show that many customers should incline to consider less about their style or taste, whereas lean to pursue after masses' authority. Recent consumers have propensity to avoid feeling concern about others' criticism, on the other side, they try to chase of the fashion as masses' choice for feeling peaceful. The reason why people recognize not to have clothing to wear in spite of a large wardrobe, it must reflect their needs promoted from outside influence of introducing for new styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Nondestructive Testing
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.14-20
• /
• 2003

Piezoelectric ultrasonic transducers for high temperature contact measurement were developed. These high temperature ultrasonic transducers (HTUT) consisted of bismuth titanate piezoceramic element whose Curie temperature is higher than $600^{\circ}C$, a backing material of the mixture of tungsten powder and inorganic binder, an inner alumina tube, a wear Plate and a housing. The operational frequencies or the HTUT were 1.04 and 2.08 MHz, respectively. Various commercially available couplants for high temperature were evaluated and compared. As a couplant for high temperature ultrasonic testing between HTUT and test specimen, gold epoxy was selected. The peak amplitude of pulse-echo signals from steel test specimen decreased with increasing temperature. The operational temperature of the HTUT reached up to $500^{\circ}C$ at which the continuous contact measurement was possible.