• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.119-131
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• 2001

Exposure of the human skin to UV-light can cause sun-tanning, photoaging and even photo-carcinogenesis. Melanin is important in protecting the skin against UV damage, but excessive or uneven melanin production can lead to the formation of freckles and aged spot. Control of hyperpigmentation is becoming even more important as aged population continues to grow. These needs led us to develop effective and safe depigmenting-agent, kojyl 3-aminopropyl phosphate (kojyl-APPA), called Whitegen. The development of whitegen was based on the fact that phosphate group of 3-aminopropyl phosphate can make kojic acid more compatible to the skin membrane and more stable. Instability of kojic acid has been a problem in cosmetic use. The insertion of phosphoester group has been recognized as a powerful tool to improve such physical properties as solubility and stability, because the phosphodiester residue is well characterized as a non-toxic moiety, having a high affinity for cell membranes. Kojyl-APPA showed no tyrosinase inhibition effect compared to kojic acid in vitro, but showed tyrosinase inhibition effect in situ. It means that kojyl-APPA is converted to kojic acid enzymatically in cells. Kojyl-APPA showed the inhibitory activity on melanin synthesis in mouse melanoma and normal humal melnaocytes and also showed long-lasting stability in comparison with its original form (kojic acid). Kojyl-APPA showed depigmenting effects when applied to UVB-induced hyperpigmentated region of guinea pig skin. Based on these results, kojyl 3-aminopropyl phosphate can be used as a safe and effective ingredient for the brightness and cleanness of skin.

• 동의생리병리학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.574-580
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• 2009

Melanogenesis is induced mainly by ultraviolet radiation of sunlight and ${\alpha}$-Melanocyte stimulation hormone (${\alpha}$-MSH) which binds to a specific G protein coupled receptor. ${\alpha}$-MSH and cAMP-elevating agents are known to melanin syntheisis and dendrite outgrowth. The purpose of this study was to investigate the mechanism of melanogenesis inhibition in B16/F10 cells by ethanol extract of Artemisiae Capillaris Herba. In the present study, ${\alpha}$-MSH led to a stimulation of melanin synthesis that appeared to result from an increased tyrosinase activity and melanin content. However, the ethanol extract of Artemisiae Capillaris Herba inhibited the ${\alpha}$-MSH-induced tyrosinase activity and melanin content. In control conditions, B16/F10 cells displayed a fibroblastic appearance while ${\alpha}$-MSH treatment promoted the emergence of small and numerous dendrites from the plasma membrane. The ethanol extract of Artemisiae Capillaris Herba abolished the ${\alpha}$-MSH-induced dendricity. Regarding protein levels of the melanogenic enzymes, the amounts of tyrosinase were increased after incubation with ${\alpha}$-MSH. The treatment of Artemisiae Capillaris Herba ethanol extract decreased the ${\alpha}$-MSH expression levels of tyrosinase. Based on these findings, it is likely that the ethanol extract of Artemisiae Capillaris Herba exerts its depigmenting effects in B16/F10 cells through the suppression of tyrosinase expression, which are key enzymes for melanogenesis.

• 생약학회지
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• 제33권2호통권129호
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• pp.130-136
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• 2002

Melanogenesis is a physiological process resulting in the synthesis of melanin pigments, which play a crucial protective role against skin photocarcinogenesis. The heart wood of Caesalpinia sappan L.(C. sappan) has long been commonly used in Oriental folk medicines to promote blood circulation, and as an emmenagogue, analgesic or anti-inflammatory agent as well as a remedy for thrombosis. From the heartwood, many constituents have been purified and among them, brazilin and hematoxylin are two of the most abundant. This present study was designed to investigate the inhibitory effect of butanol extract from C. sappan on proliferation and melanogenesis in Melan-a cells. After 48 h treatment of these cells with various concentrations of butanol extract, the cells showed a dose-dependent inhibition in their proliferation without apoptotic cell death. Therefore, the growth retardation by the extract may be due to the cell arrest or cell differentiation. We also estimated total melanin content as a final product and activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme, of melanogenesis in Melan-a cells. The melanin content and tyrosinase activity were deσeased in extract-treated cells in a dose dependent manner compared to control group. The butanol extract also resulted in a decrease of melanin content in ${\alpha}-melanocyte-stimulating$ hormone (MSH)-induced melanogenesis, indicating that butanol extract of C. sappan could be developed as skin whitening components of cosmetics.

• Journal of Ginseng Research
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• 제42권1호
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• pp.42-49
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• 2018

Background: Ginsenoside F1 has been described to possess skin-whitening effects on humans. We aimed to synthesize a new ginsenoside derivative from F1 and investigate its cytotoxicity and melanogenesis inhibitory activity in B16BL6 cells using recombinant glycosyltransferase enzyme. Glycosylation has the advantage of synthesizing rare chemical compounds from common compounds with great ease. Methods: UDP-glycosyltransferase (BSGT1) gene from Bacillus subtilis was selected for cloning. The recombinant glycosyltransferase enzyme was purified, characterized, and utilized to enzymatically transform F1 into its derivative. The new product was characterized by NMR techniques and evaluated by MTT, melanin count, and tyrosinase inhibition assay. Results: The new derivative was identified as (20S)-$3{\beta},6{\alpha},12{\beta}$,20-tetrahydroxydammar-24-ene-20-O-${\beta}$-D-glucopyranosyl-3-O-${\beta}$-D-glucopyranoside(ginsenoside Ia), which possesses an additional glucose linked into the C-3 position of substrate F1. Ia had been previously reported; however, no in vitro biological activity was further examined. This study focused on the mass production of arduous ginsenoside Ia from accessible F1 and its inhibitory effect of melanogenesis in B16BL6 cells. Ia showed greater inhibition of melanin and tyrosinase at $100{\mu}mol/L$ than F1 and arbutin. These results suggested that Ia decreased cellular melanin synthesis in B16BL6 cells through downregulation of tyrosinase activity. Conclusion: To our knowledge, this is the first study to report on the mass production of rare ginsenoside Ia from F1 using recombinant UDP-glycosyltransferase isolated from B. subtillis and its superior melanogenesis inhibitory activity in B16BL6 cells as compared to its precursor. In brief, ginsenoside Ia can be applied for further study in cosmetics.

• 한국식품과학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.76-81
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 3가지 홍화자, 향부자, 형개 추출물의 미백효과를 연구하였다. 멜라닌 생성 첫 단계인 tyrosinase 억제활성과 멜라닌 생성 억제효과를 측정한 결과, 홍화자 에탄올 추출물이 tyrosinase 활성과 B16F10 melanoma 세포의 멜라닌 생성 억제하였다. 그 결과, 홍화자 추출물은 B16F10 melanoma 세포에서 melanogenesis 따른 tyrosinase 형성 억제에 따른 멜라닌 합성 관련 인자 MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2 의 발현을 억제함에 따라 홍화자 추출물의 미백효과를 확인하였다. 따라서 홍화자는 미백효과를 가진 천연 기능성 재료로서 가능성이 매우 높은 것으로 판단된다.

• 한국식품과학회지
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.52-57
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• 2019

본 연구는 그라비올라 잎 조다당 분획물(ALP)의 멜라닌 저해활성에 관하여 알아보기 위하여 B16F10 melanoma 세포의 세포 생존율, tyrosinase 저해활성, 멜라닌 함량, 멜라닌 생합성에 관여하는 단백질(TRP-1, TRP-2, tyrosinase, MITF 및 p-CREB)의 발현을 관찰하였다. ALP의 tyrosinase 활성 저해능을 측정하였을 때, 농도 의존적으로 감소하는 것을 알 수 있었다. 또한 B16F10 세포에 ALP를 처리하여 멜라닌 활성 저해능에 관하여 알아봤을 때, tyrosinase, 멜라닌 함량이 농도 의존적으로 줄어드는 것을 확인하였다. 또한 ALP가 미백과 관련된 TRP-1, TRP-2, tyrosinase, MITF 및 p-CREB의 단백질 발현양이 농도의존적으로 감소되는 것으로 관찰되었다. 따라서 ALP는 멜라닌 저해 활성을 효과적으로 나타낸 것으로 보아 기능성 미백 화장품 소재로서의 활용 가능성을 확인할 수 있었다.

• Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.905-908
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• 2006

The purpose of this research was to study the effects of kefir whey (kefir whey, peptides, lactic acid) on skin care properties including skin lightening effect and acne treatment. The final aim was to develop a new cosmetic product and enhance the value of dairy products. The results of skin lightening tests showed that all three kefir whey components (kefir whey, peptides and lactic acid) had inhibitory ability against melanin synthesis. Furthermore, copper chelating analysis demonstrated that both kefir whey and kefir whey peptides could chelate the copper in tyrosinase, which might explain the mechanism of inhibition. The ability for acne treatment indicated that lactic acid level higher than 60 mg/ml could inhibit the growth of Propionibacterium acne, whereas no inhibition was found with other components.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.86-91
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• 1997

Some natural polyhydroxy aromatic compounds have inhibitory activity against tyrosinase, key enzyme for formation of melanin pigment. We examined the structure-activity relationship of the natural polyhydrowy aromatic compounds and synthesized a number of new derivetives through various methods. Skin lightening effects of these compounds were examined through inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase and inhibitory of melanogenesis on B-16 melanoma cells. These new compounds showed strong inhibitory activity against tyrosinase. Good lightening effects sue to inhibition of melanogenesis were observed from several resorcinol and pyrogallol derivatives. In toxicological tests such as skin primary irritation and sensitization, the above compounds were sufficiently safe for cosmetic use.

• Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society
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• 제33권9호
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• pp.3004-3008
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• 2012

Small molecule conjugated peptides were prepared by solid-phase synthesis as potential novel whitening agents, and their melanogenesis inhibitory activities were investigated. The conjugated small molecules were well-known materials as tyrosinase inhibitors, and peptides were selected from the sequences that are known to antagonize melanocortin receptor 1 (MC1R). Most of small molecules-peptide conjugates showed superior melanin inhibition activity to kojic acid and arbutin. Among these, almost all compounds have -AR- sequence. From this study, we concluded that the small molecule conjugated peptides containing -AR- sequence have melanogenesis inhibitory activities and have potential to be used as novel whitening agents.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book I
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• pp.268-284
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• 2003

Nor-aporphine derivatives have been discovered which interfere with the flux of Calcium into and out of the cell interior. It has been shown that adrenergic antagonists that block the Calcium exchange lead to an inhibition of Protein kinase C activity, thus blocking tyrosinase activation. Di-acetyl-dimethoxy-methyl-nor-aporphine is a semi-synthetic molecule of natural origin with very high potency. On B16 melanocytes as well as in normal human melanocytes the decrease in melanin synthesis reaches -50％ at a level of 40 ppm in the culture medium. On a molar concentration basis, this is 50 to 70 times stronger than Kojic acid inhibition. Yet, the cell viability is not affected. Reversibility studies show that after washing out of the active compound, melanogenesis returns to normal levels. Possible mechanisms of the activity are discussed. Tests carried out on SkinEthic(R) three-dimensional models of the epidermis and in vivo clinical studies on Asian population confirm the strong inhibition of melanogenesis. Safety evaluation of these molecules, on the other hand, demonstrates good skin tolerance and absence of toxicity.