• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권5호
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• pp.825-839
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• 2017

Generative Art (also called as the art of the algorithm) creates unexpected results, moving autonomously according to rules or algorithms. The evolution of digital media in art, which tries to seek novelty, increases the possibility of new artistic fields; subsequently, this study establishes the basis for new design approaches by analyzing visual cases of Generative Art that have emerged since the 20th century and characteristics expressed on fashion. For the methodology, the study analyzes fashion designs that have emerged since 2000, based on theoretical research that includes literature and research papers relating to Generative Art. According to the study, expression characteristics shown in fashion, based on visual properties of Generative Art, are as follows. First, abstract randomness is expressed with unexpected coincidental forms using movements of a creator and properties of materials as variables in accordance to rules or algorithms. Second, endlessly repeated pattern imitation expresses an emergent shape by endless repetition created by a modular system using rules or 3D printing using a computer algorithm. Third, the systematic variability expresses constantly changing images with a combination of system and digital media by a wearing method. It is expected that design by algorithm becomes a significant method in producing other creative ideas and expressions in modern fashion.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.24-30
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• 2005

If one can say that 'Retro' is a revived mode of the style, which was popular in the past, it is confirmed that various complex social and cultural factors have been reflected to making the current and new mode by accepting the past style. By investigating the impact of hippie style, which was popular during the Vietnam War on cosmetics and beauty culture, and the retro-tendency NEO-Hippie style fashion phenomenon appeared at around the time of the US and Iraq War, a theoretical foundation of cosmetics and beauty culture in the 2000s was established, and periodical circulation of fashion was tried to be understood. The 9.11 terrorists' attack and US-Iraq War devastated the heart of modern people, and for this, a retro trend having a meaning to revive the past style with nostalgia of the old things started to be handled with major interests in cosmetics and beauty culture. The retro-style, which is revived in the 2000s, is not the unchanging imitation mode in the '60s and '70s during the Vietnam War, but a newly transformed type of style.

• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.137-150
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• 1993

Sonia Delaunay was among the group of avant-garde artists drawn to Paris in the early part of this century who were exploring concepts of art that were felt to capture best the speed and me chanization of the modern world. She believed modernity-and her own attitude toward modern life-could be expressed through the primacy of color in art the dynamic inter-play of its dissonances and harmonies. The metap-hysical implications Delauny felt inherent in this idea made it applicable to all surfaces, and she was compelled to transform the world around her ac-cording to it. She set up a dialogue between fine art and everyday objects and accompplished the transition from representation work to her color theory through her investigation in embroidery and collage. This study is for Sonia Delaunay's field fo work which is close to fine and applied arts. To study Sonia Delaunay's work, I can find some points of her fashion designs. First, Simultaneous, which is to use collage tec-henics such as simultaneous and meterial to com-binate of variety meterial. Seound, Durability which is restoration of mor-dern fashion, Eventhough her work is 60 years old still it is foward to the furture. Imitation of textile which is devdloped by her, always looks new and fresh. Third, The elements of Folklore. Her elements of Russia, it appears on variety colors. Sepecially contemporary cloths has elements of folklore, we should use it and made it to suituble to contem-porary fashion of our country. For the furture, we need more study how to apply pictorial meterial of art into fashion design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.527-539
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• 2019

This study examined the Chinese style in the Vivienne Tam collection as well as explored diversity and modern interpretation of a Chinese style used in modern fashion. The study also investigated the concept and history of the Chinese style as well as analyzed the Chinese style in the collection based on a consideration of a Chinese element that is the basic structure with an understanding of Vivienne Tam and general collection themes. As a result of research, the Chinese style appeared in the Vivienne Tam collection was comprehensive with 43 Chinese elements including Animals, Flower & Grass among the Nature elements, Mythology Religion among the Figure elements, Historical Artifacts, Clothing, Oral Literature, Entertainment, Fine Arts. Technique, Folk holiday among Culture elements and Philosophy among Spirit elements, which accounted for 57.6% of the collection. The formative characteristics that included Chinese elements were extended, abstracted, distorted or transformed; in addition, some abstract elements were embodied into animals, images and certain particular forms to present a theme. In addition to two-dimensional method to print Chinese elements on fabric, they were also expressed as a three-dimensional texture or a silhouette, achieving clear and bold harmony. The aesthetic characteristic is a mixture of Eastern and Western way of thinking. Her costume has a political and historical meaning beyond the imitation of elements that represent the development of a pleasant and interesting design.

• 복식
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.105-119
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• 2004

Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.720-737
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• 2023

This study aims to merge Picasso's expressive elements and deconstructive fashion's formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philoso-phical aspects. The analysis of Picasso's Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida's deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida's values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso's works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2000

The purpose of study is explaining the Historicism as a result of compromise, historical eclecticism, between historical things and current cultural background instead of regarding it as an imitation from the past. It means that external factors in history help internal esthetic value surface out as costume. Fashion s history is more than the classified thing according to the appearance with the changes of the times. Intrinsic cultural elements should be added in creating new fashion. One of the different features between Modernism and Post-modernism. When coming to the period of Post-modernism, it connected with the historical factors to make something new by fragmenting, magnifying, or minimizing them. This is calles 'Historicism'in the world of art. It revived the past, not the past itself, in new ways : quotation, reuse, metaphor, and mixture. To represent the image, parody, pastiche, or bricolage was usually used. In post-modernism fashion, parody is a technique for imitating the past or the preceding forms with artists'own critical points of view. This technique gives us shock or surprise by using satirical, ironical or paradoxical expressions. pastiche shares the same part with parody in imitating particular or unique style, and it can be renamed empty parody, because it doesn't have any hidden motivation or satirical impulse. bricolage is a mixture of quotations from other works. It contains fragments that deepen the image. Like the techniques uttered above, the revival of history through parody, pastiche or bricolage is historical eclecticism and it is included in Historicism.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.127-142
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• 2020

This study compared the domestic and international commercial design patterns and domestic consumer preferences for wetsuit designs to develop a user-centered wetsuit design. An analysis of the domestic and international design elements for 1,802 wetsuits sold online over the past three years showed that the most frequent shapes, dominant colors, and patterns were the same, as consumers tended to buy full suits that were black or had geometric patterns. Dominant colors and assort/accent colors were different from the survey results. Men's wetsuits used fewer colors and patterns than women's suits. Domestic wetsuits used fewer patterns than those sold abroad; in addition, colors were applied differently. A consumer preference survey conducted on 213 male and female consumers in their 20s and their 50s in Korea indicated that 53.5% of respondents were the most affected by the shape when choosing a wetsuit design. The preferred color scheme was two colors, with a vivid tone used as an accent color. The factor analysis results on wetsuit design preference uncovered the six factors: individuality, display, function, acceptance, imitation, and comparison. An independent sample t-test also showed that men perceive individuality, imitations, and comparison factors higher than women.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.149-160
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• 2009

The purpose of this research is to analyze how contemporary hairstyles are expressed based on the recurrence and non-recurrence of simulation. The results of this study can be summarized as follows : 1) Recurrence appeared as imitation which re-expresses the image of past hairstyles, change which borrows unordinary objects from previous hairstyles, and expansion which extends the volume in hairstyles. 2) For nonrecurrence, there were an absence of hairstyles which rid reality, a sub-culture as a disband of fixed perceptions, a combination with other genres, an ambiguity of hairstyles appearing as a fusion effect and a Kitsch phenomenon, an ambiguity of hairstyles where a totally different third image appears through dichotomy concepts combined.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.551-561
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• 2003

The regulations for costume were set to improve people's moral fiber and cultural standards. In the 17th and 18th century, the main aim of this regulation was to prohibit luxury. But being the turning point to a modem state, with breaking social status and development of commerce, industry, and the mind of imitation, regulation for luxury wasn't enforced, but rather it brought many revolutionary changes in costume. Restraining human impulse to express beauty was no longer subject to regulation. Therefore, people started to recognize the human figure with shorter Jegory(저고리) and strengthened ceremonial capacity by broadening po's(포) sleeves. The silk fabrics were the most popular fabric during this era, special patterns were added for decoration and also for blessings. Complementary colors were used for contrast on the collar (깃), cuffs (끝동), Gyotrnagi (곁마기), and sash (고름). This color composition gave a younger and more active look. And with red stripes on the sleeves, it emphasized the beauty of the color arrangements as well as providing protection from the devil.