• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.188-203
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• 2010

This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women's dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the $19^{th}$ century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A.line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three-dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women's suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. In the late Victorian age when the hourglass style was in fashion, mantle returned again to plain design emphasizing the details of the shoulders. The results of this study are expected to present motives for the development of contemporary designs, to contribute to the new recognition of the value of mantles, and to open a new research area of clothing history.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.85-98
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• 2002

This study aims to present basic data on current uniforms for the practical improvement and quality betterment of their design by investigating and analysing the uniform designs worn by employees working in department stores, shopping malls and financial firms. For the research, after taking pictures of employees wearing uniforms from various occupations in Daejeon area from April 15 to May 24, 2001, the uniform styles, and the shape, color and pattern of each item were analysed by a group of four costume experts. The result is as follows: First, the uniform forms are classified by the style, and silhouette. It was found that the overall silhouette mostly consisted of hourglass silhouette, and two-piece suits. Second, for the color of each item, black was the most common color for the jacket, skirt, pants and white for the one-piece dress. Third, plain, abstract, and striped patterns, and polka dots were used for the uniforms. Among them the plain pattern accounts for the highest rate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.137-154
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.66-77
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• 2010

This study aimed at examining the pattern and detailed formation of corset look which has established itself as a sort of fashion look as people began to wear underwear as part of outer garment. The study tried to present basic materials helpful for developing and creating the design and pattern of corset look. First, the collected corset look of each brand was copied and then developed. According to the result, corset look's representative silhouette turned out to be hourglass silhouette that tightened up the waist with an emphasis on expressing the beauty of the body. However, unlike corsets of the past, corsets today are being created with focus on the design rather than using lots of incision lines. Second, The bust girth of corset look items turned out to have little function to compress and deform the body like the corset of the past that was far smaller than the body. In addition, the corset style that used the lines of corset alone as motive turned out to have the larger waist girth. Third, the dismantling of collected corset look showed that the materials and formation features of corset look have become simple and that the simplification of corset look has made the items of corset look everyday clothes which can be worn practically and universally.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.81-88
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to inquire original design and character of dancheong in Yeongnamnu P avilion which features unusual portraits of twisting dragons and four heavenly creatures. Its artistic value and originality can be found in the portraits of four heavenly creatures which are painted on the interior seonjayeon(fan shape rafter) and in the unique design of crossbeam meoricho(flower decorations on each side of pillars). Yeongnamnu's crossbeam meoricho is janggu-meoricho type(meoricho with hourglass figure) with full-shape lotus and half-shape flower decorations. And it can be said that, dragon portrait painted on the border of lotus and flower decorations in green and yellow is a very unique style of dancheong, for the reason that it has scarcely been used before and ever since. The portrait of four heavenly creatures painted on each corner of seonjayeon is also found to be unique in design, for the reason that the design has rarely been used throughout history, with only two exceptions in mural tombs of Goguryeo and folding screen in Injeongjeon Hall of Changdeokgung P alace. With its unique and authentic feature along with its rarity in number, the portrait of four heavenly creatures painted on Yeongnamnu can be considered as quite symbolic and important.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.145-160
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• 2022

This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama 'Crimson Peak'. This research method captures images of women's costumes, architecture, and crafts in the 'Crimson Peak' and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith's costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille's costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of 'Crimson Peak' are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal·plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women's clothing that elements of men's costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.111-124
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women´s fashion with the design elements(silhouette, material, color, detail and trimming) of androgynous image which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. 1. The bon silhouette led the market in the first stage of mid 1980. The wool and leather with the masculine image, cotton and soft material with unisex image were used to express the androgynous image. The dark and mono tone with the masculine image were used a lot in color. In women´s fashion the minimalism style with simple image was expressed escaping from the decoration, in which the detail and trimming was not found as in men´s wear. 2. It showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. Women´s wear silhouette with the androgynous image has changed from masculine box silhouette boomed in the first stage to hourglass silhouette and slim silhouette. The wool and leather were used a lot as the materials in the first stage but the usage of the cotton with unisex image and soft texture were getting increased. The main colors were the black and the blue but the usage of the white and the red were on the increase showing the range of the use was extending. In the meantime, the detail and trimming were hardly used like in the first stage. 3. In the third stage of the late 1990, the silhouette has changed to slim style. The wool and leather were mainly used as the materials but the cotton and silk were on the increase showing that the materials of the feminine image were used in the women´s fashion with the androgynous image as well as the materials of masculine image. In color, the black and the white of the masculine image were used increasingly by the effect of the minimalism and the usage of the colors were various for the rising frequency of the trend colors usage.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.46-62
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• 2013

This thesis aims to provide basic resources for the development of various uniform designs of cheerleaders by investigating the currently favoured uniform designs. The 13 professional cheerleader teams were existed among the 25 professional sports teams-9 baseball, 10 basketball and 6 volleyball teams. In each sports teams, four cheerleader's uniform were chosen and evaluated in terms of the cheerleader uniform design by analyzing the forms, colors, decorations and accessories. The result shows that the common kinds of design representing the symbolic color and the emblem were generally prevalent, instead of particular types of uniform design and subject in accordance with different kinds of the professional baseball, basketball and volleyball respectively. Throughout all the kinds of the sports, the combination of the sleeveless top and hot-pants were most frequently observed. In case of the skirts, the mini flare, wrap, and pleats skirts were the most prevalent, because it gave free to motion for cheerleading. The one-piece style were rather infrequent, comparing with the two-pieces, with the hourglass and fitted silhouette the most frequent type, and all those were mini in length. The sleeve in top were generally absent or short, however the bare top style was never found that the top would have a risk of being taken off downwardly during cheerleading. The accessories and the cheering tools were not so much used. The cap and headdresses were not many in kinds. The pompom, megaphone, tube stick, towel, umbrella and musical instruments would not be sufficient to play a role of tools for cheering, which suggests that the rather advanced tools or instruments for cheering in the sports need to be developed, not alone the uniform design.