• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.525-540
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• 2003

This survey paper aims to compare two significant figures in the history of Haute Couture e.g, Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel, who played a leading role between 1910 and 1930. It is found here that they have common features with respect to giving freedom to body through costume, enlarging Garconne Mode, creating more value of Costume Jewelry, exploiting advertisement strategy using models, proving exotic styles, and last but not the least contributing to Haute Couture. The research shows, however, that Poiret differs from Chanel in that he made most of various natural colors whereas Chanel used black or beige colors that had been rarely used woman wear previously. They also differed in using fabric, permitting copy by others, ingredients and bottling of perfume, meaning of silhouette. This kind of comparative research is expected to provide more understanding of fashion history and to contribute to more rigorous analysis of key success factors of designers in his or her age of fashion.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2011

Research on the influence of foreign culture influx on fashion has a significant meaning as a reference for predicting future fashion trends affected by globalization. Therefore, this study examined the transformations in Turkish costume in the 13th to 18th century when Turkey was most thriving in history. As the Ottoman Turk Empire expanded its territory, its costume changed by embracing both western and Islamic cultures and presented exotic styles in terms of fabric, pattern, color, design and details.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.579-594
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• 2014

The areas of fashion research and fashion design aesthetics & fashion history have been studied under a common research heading as a Humanities subject in the UK and the USA, and as Clothing and Textiles Studies in Korea. The purpose of this paper was to analyze the 2004~2013 research tendencies in terms of reporting methods and contents from 181 world-renowned Fashion Theory research papers within the UK and USA fashion research corpus, and 359 Korean research papers from The Research Journal of Costume Culture related to fashion design aesthetics & costume history field. The subject areas, periods, methodologies, and differences in the topics of the studies were examined. The results of the research are as follows. Regarding the research authorship and length of the research papers, in Fashion Theory most papers were written by a single English-speaking or other foreign language-speaking author and were on average longer than 21 pages, while in The Research Journal of Costume Culture, many papers were jointly written by two Korean researchers and were between 11 and 20 pages. Regarding the content, Fashion Theory was connected to relatively wide and diverse periodical and regional boundaries including the body, clothing, the fashion media, and the overall fashion system, while The Research Journal of Costume Culture revolved around the body and clothing, textiles, the fashion media, and costumes. In addition, since the late $20^{th}$ century, the studies appeared to be related to the current Western world overall or to the country of the author. Regarding the research methodology, Fashion Theory used diverse research subjects and methodologies, and research was conducted on topics relating to fashion culture or fashion aesthetics. On the other hand, The Research Journal of Costume Culture featured relatively more dynamic studies aimed at suggesting developments or solutions to problems. It was found that a large share of that research focused on detailed style analyses and suggestions for aspects such as design elements and design developments. Such differences are considered to be caused by the inherent differences between the academic departments for the Humanities, and the Human Ecology. The above research results are expected to provide fundamental information in setting a direction for future research to assist the globalization of domestic research.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.28-37
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• 1991

Clothing and Textiles was introduced in the 1950s to Korea and has been developed. At this moment, it seems to be valuable to identify state of art of researches in clothing and textiles field. The purpose of the study was to investigate trends of subject-matter emphasis in clothing and textiles. The data were included clothing and textiles related research articles published in three professional journals from 1959 through 1990 and condensed at 5 year intervals. The identified 620 articles with clothing and textiles subject-matter emphasis were categorized in six areas: clothing construction, textiles, history of costume, design and aesthetics, socio-psychological aspect of clothing, and fashion merchandising. The results were as follows: 1. Since 1959, there has been a significant growth in terms of the number of research as well as in quality of research particulary considering the short history of the field. 2. The number of each area research was ranked as follows: 1) textiles (217) 2) history of costume (173) 3) socio-psychological aspect of clothing (88) 4) clothing construction (79) 5) fashion merchandising (34) 6) design and aesthetics (22) and others (7) 3. In the area of textiles, the most dominant area was clothing management (102 out of 217) and clothing hygenics research was getting increased from the late of 1980 through Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. 4. In the area of history of costume, most of the research have been published through Journal of Korean Costume Society. History of korean costume was the most dominant area (120 out of 173) and history of eastern costume area was getting increased from the late of 1980s. 5. In the area of socio-psychological clothing, the research was accelated in the beginning of 1980s through Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, while the research was decreased a· little in the late of 1980s. 6. In the area of clothing construction, it was revealed its decrease the percentage of total number of research and most of them were published through Journal of Korean Home Economics. 7. In the area of fashion merchandising, there has been continuous increase in the number of research from the late of 1970s to 1990, present. For the future direction, implications for interdisciplinary and ecological approach were suggested.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2005년도 Fasion road:Korea to belarus
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• pp.33-34
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• 2005

• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.151-164
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• 2004

This Studies on 20th century fashion was carried out according to the classification of the times as made up Belle Epoque, New Look, Big Look, and Body-Consciousness. Aside from research in literatures, research into 20th fashion also include the analysis of photo had been taken from various collection. The enlargement beauty of costume had been place under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness. the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To conclude, this study finds there are between the aesthetic characteristic differences in the aesthetic consciousness of the costumes in history and the present-day fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the present-day was found to have the following characteristic ; (1) History-oriented tradition (2) Metaphorica autonomous (3) Freedom of breaking with restriction (4) Dismantling the irregularity (5) Hedonistic play instinct (6) Psychological compensation (7) Sexual sensuality (8) Ideal of the times (9) Aesthetic ornament (10) Feeling of satisfaction through self-enlargement. From list above. metaphorical sensuality, aesthetic ornament and the feeling of satisfaction driven by Self-Enlargement are the same characteristics found in the aesthetics consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costume In history in that they are the aesthetic consciousness above time and space. It is metaphorical sensuality which transform woman's body in to distorted images as influenced by both capitalism and materialism in the last 20 years. These are represented by the sadomasochistic and fetish images as the woman's metaphorical voluminous enlargement is apparently becoming more positive, radical and obscene especially in terms of expression.

• 복식
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• 제66권1호
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• pp.42-57
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• 2016

The Tibetan people are an ethnic group that is native to Tibet who have adapted to the region's harsh climate and environment, and developed their own culture. Religion played a central role in maintaining its traditional culture and society in the history. The objective of this study is to understand Tibetan costume and religion, and examine patterns that appear on the costume to study their religious symbolism. The significance of this study lies in explaining the symbolisms of the patterns that appear on the costume in terms of cultural maintenance and change. Based on literature review, I summarized the data about Tibet's environment, history and religion, and divided the residential district into three: ${\ddot{U}}$-Tsang, Amdo, Khamba. Then, I organized each region's characteristics and clothes, and studied Tibetan Buddhism (Vajrayana) costumes and features of the patterns that appear on the costumes. Through combining these data, I would like to examine the religious symbolism of the costume pattern of Tibet. Buddhism is at the heart of cultural and social maintenance and change in Tibet, and the patterns shown in the costume is influenced mostly from Buddhism. The features of general Tibetan costume vary with the region and life style, but the patterns that appear on the costume are used over a wide area to represent good luck and the spread of Buddhist teachings. The costumes for religious rites vary with religious sects, but most of the patterns are commonly used. The symbolism of pattern is a form of figure that represents the human psyche and physical world. The symbolism of pattern implies meanings such as compensation or futuristic wish. First, the lucky omen normally means long life, happiness and peace, and means religious salvation in Buddhist perspective. Second, warding off evil spirits normally means avoiding misfortune, and means dignity and self-protection, and protection of Buddhadharma in Buddhist perspective.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.42-52
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• 2002

The purpose of this research is to survey minpo(the nations pojagi), especially supo(the embroidered pojagi), of the Yi Chosun of Korea during the nineteenth century. This study explores the history and background of minpo, its characteristics, including forms, designs, materials, and how they related to women's daily life during the Yi Chosun in social and cultural aspects. There were minpos for use in everyday life as well as for special occasions such as weddings, funerals and religions rites, including Buddhist and other services. The research undertaken here is done by classifying minpos according to composition, design, pattern and motif.

• 복식
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• 제15권
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• pp.149-166
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• 1990

Korean clothes is traditional folk costume native to Korea, Which is in Korea clothes. The past Korean costume was developed in the native costume, together influenced by chinese costume. But in the late Yi dynasty the contact with western countries brought about a turning point in Korean costume history, with rapid growth of economy since Korean war in the 1950's, the magnification of industrial structure, the development of productive technique, transformation of consumption pattern and the development of communication have been increased concerns for the western costume. In 1953 the introduction of nylon which was imported from Japanese brought about a fuming point in clothing habits. In 1967 the development of the fiber industry got a firm stand in ready-made clothes. Consequently our traditional Korean clothes was regarded as nonfunctional, nonproductive and it was pushed out of daily life little by little and it was deprived of the function of ordinary costume by the influence of western costume. But in these days the Korean clothes appears as the desire of pursuing traditional style in addition to mordern style of Korean clothes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.217-227
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• 1997

Costume of each age reflects its own history. Military costume is an reflections of war, social and geometrical background. Soldiers on their uniforms were at the battlefields with their lives and country on their shoulders. The main purpose of this writing is to study military costume of ancient empires in historical Point of view including especially those of Egypt, Mesopotamia, Crete, Greece, Etruria, Rome. As we will see, ancient military costume developed from earlier stages of uniforms into military costume in various ways. The types of military costume formed itself gradually but rapidly into sophisticated, useful, and excellent quality clothes. Military costume of early ancient empires signified its strength and were actual and symbolic costume that determined life and death, glory and disgrace.