• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제33권7호
• /
• pp.1140-1151
• /
• 2009

This study researches the formative character of 1920's fashion through cinema costumes from the perspective of the theories of W$\"{o}$lfilin and Delong. This study organizes a new perspective such as closed form & open form, part recognition & whole recognition, and flat & rounded to analyze the characteristics of form in the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby', 'Chariots of Fire', and 'Chicago'. The 1920's style in the fashion history is a closed form and flat because of simplicity and functionality. The costumes in Chariots of Fire' that focuses on the reappearance of 1920's fashion is a flat and closed form. However, the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby' that presents a symbolic meaning and 'Chicago' that expresses a splendid look are an open and rounded form. Evening dresses are open, with whole recognition and a rounded form because of sheer fabrics, beading, uneven hemlines, and lighting. Daytime dresses are a closed form and flat because of heavyweight fabrics, dark or achromatic colors and non-patterns. Also, open form and rounded, closed form and flat have a similar distribution in diagrams. When the viewer recognizes the form of clothes, they react in a similar way to two-dimensional and three-dimensional presentations that shows that the form of clothes is recognized by the relation with the body. In addition, this study researches the connection between diverse elements such as clothes, body, movements, space, and external elements such as lighting.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제24권3호
• /
• pp.121-137
• /
• 2020

This thesis makes it an aim to develop designs of Shinhanbok coats interpreting and applying the formative structure of the lattice window pattern in Huijeongdang of the Changdeokgung palace, one of the best architecture in Chosun dynasty. Literature review about the history and characteristics of the window of Huijeongdang of the Changdeokgung palace was performed on the basis of the internet resources and papers, and the examples of the fashion design applying the lattice window patterns were analyzed. Then, three style Shinhanbok coats were designed and presented with making use of 6 kind of lattice window patterns as its motif. The coats were designed in flexible size, attempting to clad any kind of body size and shapes. Design 1 drawn from Wanjasal, Tisal, Design 2 drawn from Ajasal, Yongjasal, Tisal, design 3 drawn from Bitsal, Jungjasal. In conclusion, lattice window patterns of the traditional beauty highlighted in view of modern times might be suggested as the motif for expressing the proportion with balance and rhythm with stability. The division of the space with the line was tried with the technique of the bias cutting, stitching and taping with the design of simplicity signified in the aesthetics of the vacant space in addition to its ornamental effects. Thus, this study would like to contribute to the popularity of the Shinhanbok outlined in modern application and unique taste through the study and applications of the traditional lattice window pattern of Korea.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제36권1호
• /
• pp.99-111
• /
• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제26권5호
• /
• pp.700-713
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and symbolism of peony, the traditional noble flower, create knit fashion designer applying the aesthetic beauty of flower, and suggest the various possibility of developing knit fashion design. As for the study method, the study conducted review on literature and previous studies to investigate on history, characteristics, symbolism of peony, and examined various expressive technique through previous studies about fashion design using flower images. To express characteristics of peony in three dimensions, the study investigated and reflected on crochet expressive technique to design 4 women's knitwear. The results are as below. First, as shape of peony is big, voluminous, fancy and noble, it symbolizes wealth and beauty. Including red which is the generally known color of peony, there are yellow, white, pink, purple, green, blue, black, gray, white purple, white color. This study reflected characteristics and symbolism of peony and created knit fashion design applying abundant aesthetic characteristics of flower. Second, crochet method is advantageous as it is operable with thread and hooked crochet hook without time and space restriction, it can create unique fashion design. Crochet knitting on hand knit can diversity changes to express relief textures, and as there is no limit in size, it can be applied to small props to big pieces. This study suggested the various possibility of knit fashion design development and various expressive possibility on modern fashion design.

• 복식
• /
• 제63권7호
• /
• pp.49-64
• /
• 2013

Mugunghwa, one of the most prominent national symbols of Korea, is a significant design source for producing cultural products. However, there has been a limitation to reflecting the identity of Korea using the design due to a lack of study and analysis of characteristics of Mugunghwa in history. Therefore, the researchers analyzed the design characteristics of Mugunghwa in cultural artifacts such as costumes, money, and stamps. Based on this, the study puts forward the following suggestions. First, the patterns of Mugunghwa should be categorized as a solo figure, a flower with pastels and the stem and a group of flowers as a unit. Second, there are two ways of expressing the flower: using realism and abstraction. Mugunghwa comprises of five pastels with elongated depth in the middle. The pastels spread out like the spokes of a wheel from the center; leaving a feeling of unevenness and the rims of the pastels are shaped in waves. The study puts forward the following suggestion: First, find the prototypes for different design characteristics. Second, develop motifs and patterns that reflect the given prototypes. Finally, apply the design to most popular cultural items such as T-shirts, neckties and bags. The ultimate purpose of the study lies with the hope that it will contribute to promoting the Korean beauty throughout the world.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제19권2호
• /
• pp.296-308
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to understand Qipao, that Chinese traditional women's cloth, and analysis the aesthetic characteristics of that. Joining WTO in 2002 and 2008 Beijing Olympic made China get the attention by the world and get the opportunity that advent of China style. Chinese fashion cultural contents have abundant meanings in internal or external, therefore characteristics aesthetic of Chinese traditional fashion had much influence in world fashion design. Qipao that has influence in contemporary fashion design could be used special fashion design data for China market. A variety of literature and prior researches for Qipao's history and transition process was studied. Internal and external documents, fashion magazines, internet information were investigated to study features of Qipao. Total 20 seasons fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2009F/W was examined, and selected 22 brands that showed Qipao style, after then extracted 418 photos among them. By the seasons, Eit showed 193 pieces in S/S and 225 pieces in F/W, and was put to practical use in F/W season than S/S. The results are as follows. The contemporary fashion collections shown in the Qipao style silhouette, detail, color, material, pattern and the results obtained by each, were in all respects diversity. In silhouette, including traditional tight silhouettes, 'H' silhouettes, boxy silhouette was such a variety. The five colors traditionally preferred color from the color was more of a tendency to be gorgeous. Modern reinterpretation of pattern designs by graphic pattern that has emerged. Also, shown in a contemporary fashion collection Qipao style leather material in application utilizing the glossy feel of a plastic material and has emerged feeling.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국복식학회 2003년도 International Costume Conference
• /
• pp.59-59
• /
• 2003

Millions of people invest a lot of money and endeavours to improve their look, feel, and smell of their bodies. This quest for beauty has a long history, and cosmetics industries are expanding to fulfill these requests. Also, cosmetics industries are suffering severe competitions and try to segment cosmetics market to cope with the their customers' sensitive.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권1호
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 2015

Magic realism, which originated in the culture of Central and South America, creates a fantastic fictional word by linking unrelated incidents using magical. The purpose of this study was to analyze Tarsem Singh's design characteristics that are based on magic realism in his movies, "The Cell" and "The Fall", and to highlight the artistic values appearing in the films. The research was conducted by observing the characteristics and concept of magic realism based on literature and preceding research, and discovering how Singh expressed these creatively and experimentally within the costumes in his films. The results of the study were as follows: Firstly, magical, legendary and symbolic characteristics appear within the fantasy of magical realism, and common techniques within film costuming include repetition of similar objects, solid silhouettes within scenes, and various decorative materials used for fantastic expression. Secondly, regarding ideality, the destruction of previous ideas and recreation of the present were found with materials and details used in film costuming to destroy previous ideas. Expressions of character through external decoration and depiction of living things as not living were also found. Thirdly, reiteration showed the coexistence of history and legend, reality and fantastic elements, and arrangement of opposing elements.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제10권1호
• /
• pp.85-95
• /
• 1986

Sonia Delaunay(1885$\~$1979) was one of great pioneers of abstract art, who looked at clothes and fabrics with a plastics eyes. In Association with her husband Robert Delaunay, they were instrumental in founding the movement of Orphism, she proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and had a brilliant influence on the decoration and women's fashion of the 1920's. Having a strong sense for dramatic and decorative color derived in part from childhood remembrances of Russian folk art she initiated a total revolution in which she created her first simultaneous dress with multi-colored samples of materials. She extended the principle of color's simultaneity to the field of fashion, fabric design and applied art. She was interested in the dress for ballet and opera. Fashion designer Paul Poiret asked her to design the fabrics and she created the geometric and abstract patterns with her strong color. It seemed that her design was revolutionary and avant-garde. Always she desired not only art of seeing but also art of living. The purpose of this study is to recognize the influence she had upon the history of modern fashion and fabric design. It was remarked that her paintings served as a basis for later developments in Kinetics Art and had influences on 1980' s abstract patterns for silk dress. Finally, the concept 'simultaneity' of her art signifies endless rhythmes in space and time.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제19권2호
• /
• pp.108-108
• /
• 1995

This study, on the American hippies and their fashion, is composed of an examination of the following; the social and cultural circumstances of America in the late 1960's, the charac? teristics of the hippies that appeared in the midst of the foresaid background, how those factors materialized in the hippies' distinctive fashion and how they influenced tahion to come. The hippies were composed of the young generation that revolted against all general conventional values of American society and seceded from it, seeking for the ideas of love and freedom. They expressed their newly defined culture-rock music based on drug culture, psychedelic art, rejection of an established society and ethnic tastes that sprang up from nostalgia concerning nature-by means of their own distinctive fashion. And as a revival of the hippies' fashion, neo-hippie and grunge fashions newly appeared in the F /W season of 1992 and afterwards, adding fresher and more abundant sensibility to the original image and layered look of the hippies. The hippies' fashion has not only played a significant part in modem fashion history but will continue to exert its influence in the 1990's as the hippies generation are presently the center of American culture and leaders of world culture. In conclusion, various sorts of "individ- uality" and "the pleasure in the wearing itself" expressed by the original layering of the hippies' fashion presents new promise in the coming development at fashion.