• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.77-93
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the stage costumes of Michael Jackson, and how it was reflected in contemporary fashion. The study reviewed fashion related articles, book, journals, and online fashion sites in order to look at the stage costumes used by Michael Jackson from 1979 to 2001 from 'Off the wall' to 'Invincible'. The study examined the 2001 S/S~2016 S/S seasons of the world's 4 major $pr{\hat{e}}t$-${\acute{a}}$-porte collections to identify cases that used at least two fashion factors of Michael Jackson's style. The study result is as follows: First, Michael Jackson wore black tuxedoes with bow ties, ankle-length pants, white socks, black loafers, arm bands and other various accessories. Second, many of Jackson's fashion traits, such as military style golden embroidery detail and emblems, Brandenburgs, and also appeared in many collections. Third, Jackson's glitter style included spangle and cubic accessories, which were used along with hologram and metallic materials. Accessories, such as cubic gloves and socks, and fedoras were worn with the costume. Lastly, his diverse style, which included fencing shirts, letterman jacket and magic suits, can be found in different forms in modern fashion. Michael Jackson was one of the trendsetters in popular fashion in the 1970s~1990s, and continuously inspires fashion designers in the 21st century. In this aspect, the Michael Jackson style is deemed highly significant in the fashion history.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.107-123
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• 2005

In this thesis, I tried to compare and analyze the characteristics of the costume worn by leading figures of French movie 'Dangerous Liaison' and Korean movie 'The Scandal'. I compared the costumes they wear with the costumes of 18th century Fran[e and also tried to analyze how the costumes represent the psychological status of the persons in the movie. Since these two movies are based on the same original novel, the major figure's characters, socio-economic status and the situations they faced are similar but the physical background are very different, that is Fran[e and Korea. The analysis of the costume worn by similar characters in the two movies show differences due to the intention of tile producer's. The costumes used in Scandal shows much more use of varied colors to represent the characters of the major roles while Dangerous Liaison more faithfully follows the evidences of the costume used in the period in France. As seen from the result of this analysis, we can deduce that the costumes used in the movie not only have the simple role of clothes but also itforms the image of the figure in the movie representing the social and economic status of the person who wears them. Because of these demands, the designer should posses profound knowledge of history of the costumes of the period as well as the creativity to harmonize them with the atmosphere that the movie intend to appeal.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.86-99
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• 1998

The aim of this study to examine the Hip-Hop style, one of the fashion trends of the new generation in the 1990s and to come up with a design with a Hip-Hop image. As the Counterculture, Black Renaissance, Pop Star Syndrome, the importance of Hip-Hop fashion in mass culture was recognized and given a firm place as one of the major cultural trends of the 1990s. Hip-Hop fashion has a history: it originated from the Caribbean style in the 1940s and was transformed into Rude Boys style in the 1960s, Two-tone style and Rastafarians style in the 1970s. Finally it was succeeded by B-boys and Flygirls style. Hip-Hop style combines characteristics of all three styles mixed in one, which are as follows. First, Neo-Hip-Hop Fashion, Second, Hip-Hop Reggae Fashion and Third, Graffiti Fashion. Based on these three Hip-Hop images of the 19905, an attempt will be made to produce a Design Planning with a predicted 1998 fashion trend. This research provides order sheets on ready-made clothes designed for new generation in their late 10s and early 20s. Design Concept, Image Map, Fabric, color direction will be offered on the basis of an image map drawn in line with the three design concepts incorporating three sub themes of Liveliness, Modern Ethnic, and Dynamic Future. Three designs will be designed based on the following fashion themes$\ddot{o}$ Generation 'Y', Black Guys and Street Boys.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.113-124
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• 2018

This study is to find ways to use fast-fashion wedding dresses continuously which usually have worn three or four times and just wasted, which is an current interesting issue over the society. Among clothing from the 19th Century, three styles of Empire, and Crinoline were analyzed from their underwear styles to outwear styles through library and museums and are made for rental service. Based on 8-year-old girls' physical dimensions, openings and closing methods of each size were applied to develop and make rental dress designs. It will be a good opportunity to study history and develop creativity if children can try different styles of dresses from different cultures and times and also experience difference wearing ways as they also have such desire. Underwears were designed to be worn by adjusting cloth rings, rubber bands, or hook and eye to fit different dimensions. The final products are as follows. First, empire dress doesn't need underwear to wear. Depending on the purpose of the rental dress, the back side of upper clothes have lace up by using cloth rings like empire style. Skirt was cut to use hem lace suitably from wasted dress. Second, Crinoline dress is usually configured of Crinoline, Petticoat, Two Piece on Drawers, Chemise, and Corset. It was designed by flat front, bigger sides and backs by Crinoline and Petticoat.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.309-320
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• 2011

Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in media costume design. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for media costume design. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and media DVD, video, fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the external representation mimesis, the internal symbol mimesis and the multiful meta mimesis. In media costume, the representation mimesis included design historical point of view, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The internal mimesis included symbol of religion, character, riches, psychology and fear mimesis. The multiful meta mimesis included hybrid and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in media costume design fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.12-32
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• 2007

This study aims at investigating Geisha costume hidden in the history until now and how the fashion of Geisha style is expressed in accordance with character through the movie 'Memoirs of a Geisha'. Major contents of the text consist of studies including the historical background and characteristics of Geisha costume in Chapter 2, the Japanese style expressed in the movie through the analysis of the work in Chapter 3, The movie brought in an opportunity to spread the mysterious culture and art of Japan to the world, making Japanese style an important interest in the world of fashion as well. In a way to study this, the investigation was carried out through literature data, DVD and newspaper of , fashion magazine, articles from the Internet, ete. The Geisha trend has made the hot blast blown harder in such ways to affect not only fashion but also cosmetics, electronic appliance, interior, etc. In S/S 2006, it was not limited to the Japanese style but diffused to the Orientalism in China, India, Korea, etc. It can be said that this study has its significance to be a starting point in investigating the special characters of Japanese Geisha costume hidden up to now. In the studies following in the future, the formative beauty demonstrated per Japanese designer needs to be more studied. Furthermore, it seems noteworthy to analyze and compare Chosun Dynasty's Kisaeng with Japanese Geisha.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.617-623
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• 2004

This research studies how a rain coat (兩衣) had developed in ancient China by searching through historic records. It can be said that people in ancient China wore two kinds of rain coats: straw coat and oiled-cloth coat (油衣). Straw coat was originally used in the Spring and Autumn and Warring States period. Then, people used natural grasses to make it. As the overall production had increased, various kinds of rain coats began to appear in Tang (唐) Dynasty, and the straw coat itself became elaborate. In Song (宋) and Yuan (元) Dynasty, the straw coat was used for the army, and when it came to be Ming (明) and Qing (淸) age, wearing it was considered a symbol of hermit. The straw coat shows the early form in the history of clothing, which was mostly put on by the poor. The material for straw coat was the grass which grows up in wet land area. People in the city and in the country had worn the straw coat for a long time. As foreign cultures were introduced, however, it disappeared first in cities and later in the country. The oiled-cloth coat was another of the kind. Its major material was water-proofed silk in the Qin(泰) and Han(漢) Dynasty. Also, it was a favorite of an emperor or aristocrats. Common people put on straw coat until the time the western rain coat was introduced and accepted in Qing Dynasty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.73-80
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• 2010

This research examined the design characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet, a female fashion designer who left an enormous legacy and made a great contribution to the high added-value fashion industry. Her techniques can be dividing in to three types: the bias cutting, the design by geometrical methods, and the classical style of ancient Greek clothing. This research also intended to study the design cases in which Vionnet's drapery images are applied to modern fashion, mainly the haute couture works that have appeared at Dior collections since 2000. In terms of the characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet's design, First, she produced the best achievement in dress and ornament history by developing a new technique called bias cutting. Second, her work was groundbreaking because it changed the previously planar approach to the female body into a solid conception by cutting and connecting geometrical pieces in the form of quadrangle, triangle, and a quarter-circle. As a result, her works depicted feminine beauty to the fullest extent through the combination of the human body, excellent materials, and the most sophisticated technology and personal skill. Third, her approach was a classical style tinged with the Greek costume image. With this style, which was born by reinterpreting the key tone of the Greek epoch in a modern way, and transcending and even changing tradition, she created a form of beauty that only she could.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.250-256
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• 1998

The culture of makeup has early developed in China. Especially, beautiful eyebrows were the symbol of a beauty. This study is related to fashionable Cheong-Dae in Han Dynasty. In Han Dynasty, women painted thier eyebrows with blue color in a different color from former periods. This fact has close connection with the bordering countries on Western China. Together with Hu fashion having been in fashion during trading directive with Western China women has seemed to use Cheong-Dae for their makeup in Han Dynasty. In Hand Dynasty, Ferghana women had very often used it for their makeup. And it had produced in Ferghana, Jaguda, Kashkar. In Tang Dynasty, it has been said that Persia was the best. Let's take a look at the producing method. Soak indigo plants in water add lime and stir it up, then bubbles are formed. They are called it as Cheong-Dae. Nearly, they are produced in the course of indigo dying. So we can see inflowing course of Cheong-Dae into China through the history of Indigo dying. We can guess the use of Cheong-Dae in Egypt. Indeed, Nile Blue is used for the Protection their access from insects as well as effect of coolness visually. This guess is very reasonable because the fact is considered that some people dye with indigo color by the way of sedimentation in Peniasula of Sinai. Also, the PH of Cheong-Dae is about 7. So, it does no harm in skin and its color is dark blue. Cheong-Dae has effects of insecticide and removal of fever. Cheong-Dae that had been used in Peninsula of Egypt seems to have been carried into China through Silk Route. And by trial to make Cheong-Dae it is proved that its ingredient is plant.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.104-118
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• 2011

Since Sirimavo Bandarinaike became the first female prime minister in 1960, women all over the world has been trying to break the highest glass ceiling. In a place where men had been dominating throughout history, women political leaders had to find a way to look the part by wearing power suits. Feminity was out of the question until the digital era of 21st century started. The world has evolved into a place where feminity could be strength instead of weakness. Now women political leaders are showing body curves, cleavage, using vivid and pastel colors, soft fabrics, elaborate details, accessories, long and curly hair. The padded shoulders of dark coloured power suits were replaced by soft colorful flowing feminine suits. Yulia Tymoshenko of Ukraine is the best example of 21st century woman political leader using feminity in her fashion style while enacting her role. When she first started politics in 1990's, she wore dark colored power suits like all other women political leaders did with short dark hair. As time passed her suits became more feminine with light colors and elaborate details. She has changed her hair into a neat braid, based on a traditional Ukrainian hair style. She used orange color for the Orange Revolution and white for pure image. Yulia Tymoshenko's fashion style as a way of role enactment showed professionalism, feminity, integrity, and ethnicity.