Study on Madeleine Vionnet Design Image Shown at the Christian Dior Collections

크리스찬 디오르 컬렉션에 나타난 마들렌 비오네 디자인 이미지

  • Received : 2009.09.28
  • Accepted : 2009.11.30
  • Published : 2010.06.30

Abstract

This research examined the design characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet, a female fashion designer who left an enormous legacy and made a great contribution to the high added-value fashion industry. Her techniques can be dividing in to three types: the bias cutting, the design by geometrical methods, and the classical style of ancient Greek clothing. This research also intended to study the design cases in which Vionnet's drapery images are applied to modern fashion, mainly the haute couture works that have appeared at Dior collections since 2000. In terms of the characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet's design, First, she produced the best achievement in dress and ornament history by developing a new technique called bias cutting. Second, her work was groundbreaking because it changed the previously planar approach to the female body into a solid conception by cutting and connecting geometrical pieces in the form of quadrangle, triangle, and a quarter-circle. As a result, her works depicted feminine beauty to the fullest extent through the combination of the human body, excellent materials, and the most sophisticated technology and personal skill. Third, her approach was a classical style tinged with the Greek costume image. With this style, which was born by reinterpreting the key tone of the Greek epoch in a modern way, and transcending and even changing tradition, she created a form of beauty that only she could.

Keywords

References

  1. 조규화 外(2004), 패션미학, 수학사, pp.31-32.
  2. Betty Kirke(1998), Madeleine Vionnet 1, San Francisco;Chronicle Books. pp.46-140.
  3. 김희균. 조규화(2000), "바이어스 드레이핑 디자인 연구", 패션비즈니스, 4(4), pp.1-16.
  4. 최진영.조규화(2007), "마들렌 비오네의 디자인 연구", 패션비즈니스, 11(1), pp.26-37.
  5. Betty Kirke(1998), Madeleine Vionnet 1, San Francisco;Chronicle Books. p.6.
  6. Betty Kirke(1998), Madeleine Vionnet 1, San Francisco;Chronicle Books. p.6.
  7. 南 靜(1990), パリモ-ドの二OO年, 東京:文化出版局, p.156.
  8. 南 靜(1990), パリモ-ドの二OO年, 東京:文化出版局, p.35.
  9. Diana Vreeland(1977), Inventive Paris Clothes 1909-1939, New York;A Studio Book, The Biking Press, p.50.
  10. Gerda Buxbaum(1999), Icons of Fashion : The 20th Century, Munich & New York : Prestel Verlag. p.39.
  11. Gerda Buxbaum(1999), Icons of Fashion : The 20th Century, Munich & New York : Prestel Verlag. p.80.
  12. 南 靜(1990), パリモ-ドの二OO年, 東京:文化出版局, p.156.
  13. Francois Boucher(1987), 20,000 Years of Fashion, New York;H.N. Abrams, p.27.
  14. 조규화 外(2004), 패션미학, 수학사, pp.140-141.
  15. Betty Kirkee(1998), Madeleine Vionnet 1, San Francisco;Chronicle Books. p.41.
  16. Lydia Kamistsis(1996), Vionnet, London : Thames and Hudson. p.20.
  17. Gerda Buxbaum(1999), Icons of Fashion : The 20th Century, Munich & New York : Prestel Verlag. p.168.
  18. 이귀영.조규화(2009), "존 갈리아노 컬렉션의 디자인 특성에 관한 연구-크리스찬 디오르의 컬렉션을 중심으로-", 패션비즈니스, 13(2), pp.56-60.
  19. Mode et Mode(2000 S/S - 2009 S/S), Tokyo : Mode et Mode Sha. Co., Ltd. p.50.
  20. Jaqueline Demornex(1991), Madeleine Vionnet 2, London;Thames and Hudson, p.261.
  21. Pamela Golbin(2009), Madeleine Vionnet 3, New York : Rizzoli. p.78.