• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.263-271
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• 2012

Cultural products reflect a living culture and evolve despite being based on traditional forms only. It is known as traditional cultural expression that portray certain culture groups, materials, spiritual and creativity inspired from their living environment that characterize a society. The old Malay community had a close relationship with their surrounding and environment. Sensitivity towards the nature and surrounding environment moved them into creative people. In designing the local traditional textile, role of the motifs, design and product design play an important element in Malay cultural values. This reflects the symbols and philosophy of the arts and culture and thus becomes the identity of the Malay community, which in general practice their culture and tradition based on Islamic culture and religion. Kelantan and Terengganu are the pioneer states for most producers of Malay traditional textiles. In these states the Pelangi cloths, is one of the unique textiles use and inherited by the Malay communities. Base on history, the Malay rulers and Malay nobility used Pelangi cloth as complementing clothing and ornament in attending various ceremonies and customs in their daily life. In this paper will discuss the specific picture of Pelangi motifs, design and its usage in Malay society in Malay Peninsula through its identification aspect of representations. It shows that this textile represent certain insights of Malay customs and identity.

• 복식
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.35-50
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to know how helmet and armor was reinterpreted in historical play by considering general concept and type of old helmet and armor from the aspect of costume history and comparing the helmet and armor types of TV historical plays, Yeongaesomun and Taewangsasingi, whose historical backgrounds were based on the age of Goguryeo. The helmet and armor type shown in Yeongaesomun was reinterpreted as the one, which is close to historical investigation, by reappearing lamellar armor and jongjangpanju(helmet made of slim, long plate) shown in Goguryeo wall painting. The helmet and armor type shown in Taewangsasingi expresses fantastic helmet and armor by adding fantastic factor regardless of historical investigation. The study result reveals that there are several common characteristic factors between the helmet and armors of two historical plays. First, there was a classification in the display of character and story. The helmet and armor type shown in Yeongaesomun classified color and detail design depending on lamellar armor or character. In Taewangsasingi, the helmet and armor was manufactured depending on character's nature and the chain armors, which are lighter than existing helmet and armors, were usual. Second, they escaped from the historical investigation about traditional helmet and armor. In Yeongaesomun, myeonggwangae(a type of armor), which might be popular, was not expressed and Taewangsasingi is free from an imperative idea of historical investigation by manufacturing helmet and armor referring to that of ancient Rome age. The modern sense was reflected to increase dramatic effect. The helmet and armor of Yeongaesomun provides modern feeling by using stainless steel material and modern color arrangement and that of Taewangsasingi is designed in modern, splendid way as it aimed at game development from the planning step.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.463-474
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• 2000

The purposes of this study is to investigate the characteristics of historicism in modern fashion and to introduce the appropriate approaching and application method of costume history. As one of the characteristic of Post modernism, historicism is an important theme in modern fashion. In this study, the background and the characteristic of Post modernism is considered and the historicism in the Post modern architecture and literature is studied. Next, through the artworks of Vivienne Westwood and Christian Lacroix who are excellent in the modernization of historical costume, the historicism in modern fashion is studied. The characteristic of historicism in Post modem architecture and literature comes from the nostalgia, aspiration for the past, and recurrence to the nature. It is not the revival of the past but the crossover of the past and the present. The characteristics of historicism in modern fashion are as follows. ·form; style, silhouette, and items that are shown in the historical costume come with the mixture of modem textile, new technique, and modem design. ·Materials and patterns; classical and romantic patterns, the artwork of the artist, and the fabric which is remake of remains are used. ·Technique; Tailoring techniques and the pattern making of the historical costume are used. ·Trimmings and etc.; Lots of handworks, trimmings and accessaries in that are inspired from the past are used. These elements are not come from a certain place and time but mixed surpassing places and times. With that, not only the form and the position of wearing but the meaning and purpose of wearing are changed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.376-388
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the types and characteristics of Chinese indigo dyed designs performed until today in private houses of Chinese minority races and to examine the modern value of traditional dyeing crafts of minority races by investigating the cases of utilizing modern private Chinese indigo dyed designs. As the research methodology for theoretical study about the history of Chinese traditional pattern dyeing, the origin, types and characteristics of Chinese indigo dyed designs, the preceding research data, photo data, and Internet data were utilized, and for the empirical research on Chinese traditional dyeing techniques and the cases of utilizing today Chinese indigo dyed designs, the on-site survey on Guizhou and Yunnan was conducted during February and March 2008 and the data were collected and analyzed. Based on the results of this research, it was found that Chinese indigo dyed designs represented Chinese traditional pattern dyeing, which was inherited and developed mainly in Chinese minority races and Chinese. It could be seen that according to geographical distribution and characteristics of each race, the types and characteristics of dyeing techniques were formed, which are classified into the batik of the Miao of Guizhou in the Chinese southwestern region, the tie-dyeing of Bai of Yunnan, and Chinese blue calico(resist printing) of Chinese private houses in the Hunan and Huseo regions, and these represent the three typical Chinese dyeing techniques today. Based on the results of empirical research on the utilizing cases, focusing on the traditional living handicrafts of Chinese minority races, traditional cultural articles, and artworks, the modern values such as practical, cultural, and artistic values of Chinese indigo dyed designs could be rediscovered.

• 복식
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• 제67권2호
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• pp.68-87
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• 2017

The New Look, which Christian Dior presented in 1947, has been a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, as well as designers for the House of Dior, and has a great influence on them. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look and the New Look that Christian Dior House designers reinterpreted. The subject and the scope of this study were limited to Christian Dior and the New Look designed by Gianfranco $Ferr\acute{e}$, John Galliano, and Raf Simons who are regarded as worthy successors. The research method was a literature review on previous studies on Christian Dior and related literatures to examine the history of the House of Dior and the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look presented by Christian Dior. Then, an empirical study was conducted through the analysis of collection photographs from 1989 to 2016 that were gathered from the Mode et Mode and Hi Fashion, and websites (British Vogue, Firstview). The results of the study were as follows. First, the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 used femininity to express an elegant and beautiful woman, structural property to render the contours of a woman's body, and innovation that changed the formal and gloomy social atmosphere in the post-war years. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look by Christian Dior were compared with those of the New Look made by designers for the House of Dior. The elegant femininity of Dior can be seen as gorgeous femininity, and sensual femininity, minimalistic femininity, structurality is represented by the spatial structurality of Dior and $Ferr\acute{e}$, the organic structure of Galliano, and the orthodox structure of Simons. Moreover, Dior's retro innovativeness appeared to be $Ferr\acute{e}^{\prime}s$ androgyny innovation, Galliano's deconstructive innovation, and Simons' romantic futuristic innovation.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.23-40
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to explore the aesthetic characteristics of outerization phenomenon of contemporary fashion. Outerization, transforming underwear as outerwear, is one of the most dominant and widespread fashion trends in the dawning of new millenium. Fashion always exists for living body and tributes to express idealized beauty of human body and aesthetics of the era. If so, exploring the formative expressions and aesthetic characteristics of outerization would be an meaningful guideline to deduce changed relationship between fashion and body of the 21st century. The methodology of this study is to research of fashion collections such as Paris, Milan and New York which were held the first decade of new millenium, from 2000 Spring/Summer to 2009 Spring/Summer. The styles expressing outerization were selected and assorted based on the main formative expression. Then the aesthetic characteristics were classified. The way of expression of outerization is categorized into 4 parts ; Transition, Exposure, Transparency, and Deconstruction. Aesthetic Characters of outerization is classified 4 assortments as well ; Eroticism, Fun with parody and kitch, cyber culture, Gender politics, and Power fetish. Eroticism is the most clearly identified one. Coming out of underwear imply naked body itself, so it has erotic appeal. Fun is the second character. A pleasant sensation from the outerization of undergarments maximizes a disposition of play from parody, kitch, and cyber culture. The third is Gender Politics and it introspects how the society consumes woman body in history and modern times. Power Fetish, the last one, speaks for the female body with changed vision for femininity underneath the sphere of influence of feminism and post modernism, then emphasizes the subjectivity and independence of woman. From the research above, this study will help to understand the overwhelming outerization phenomenon and contribute to expansion of the horizon of the study of fashion aesthetics. It will serve fashion creative source through various outerization cases as well.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.48-61
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• 2008

This study aimed to examine emo fashion, a very recent music-related fashion trend spreading fast amongst youths, and understand emo ideas and methods of expression for a greater understanding of contemporary youth sub-cultures and fashion trends. Documentary research, positive research and in-depth interviews were used throughout the study. 4 Korean emo bands and 4 U.S. emo bands were selected based on music chart rankings, and a total of 37 photographs from the bands' Internet websites were selected, and their clothes shown in the photographs were examined. 5 Korean emo band musicians were subjects of in-depth interviews, and they were asked about their emo culture, music, fashion, ideas and styles, and photographs were taken of the subjects and evaluated, too. Lastly, Korean and U.S. emo kids were studied through photographs, and comparatively analyzed. Both Korean and U.S. emo musicians wore slim silhouettes, skinny jeans, t-shirts, sneakers, black, studded belts and plastic-framed glasses. Korean fashion expressed a less depressive atmosphere with color and other details compared to the United States, and did not prefer dark black eye make-up, which United States emo style appeared to express frequently. Korean musicians' emo fashion was closer to other youth fashions, whereas U.S. emo fashion included more formal styles such as ruffled shirts and pin-striped vests. Korean emo kids wore clothes not much different from most Korean youths, but U.S. emo kids wore a lot of eye make-up and black t-shirts with graphic or skull prints, and had more geometrical hair styles, as if cut at home. The reasons for such differences were found to be a longer emo music and culture history in the United States leading to more elaborate fashion expressions and a difference in the states of mind, such as Korea pursuing to express love, and the United States pursuing loneliness.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.143-156
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze changes in military uniform design according to the type of war in history and to suggest factors to be considered when designing military uniforms. Military uniform in this study has been limited to uniforms of land active soldiers and not only includes battle dress but also bombproof helmets, combat boots and webbing systems. Western military uniform was investigated starting from World War I focusing on the United States, United Kingdom, Germany and the Soviet Union, and Korean military uniform was analyzed starting from the Korean Day of Independence. Historical research, case studies and in-depth interviews were included in the study. World War I was a trench war. Khaki colors began to be used in battle dress, and steel helmets and gas masks were invented. World War II was a full-stale war. Many kinds of uniform were designed with various environments and roles of soldiers in mind, and camouflage was adopted in military uniform. Modern wars were wars of technique. Strong protectors were invented and diverse camouflages were adopted as rifles became increasingly accurate and biochemical weapons started to be used. Korea referred largely to the uniforms of the United States because it lacked both information on war and the financial power to invest in development of military uniforms. Finally, this study presents 5 factors to be considered when designing military uniforms: protection, camouflage, mobile and utility convenience, compatibility and symbolism. Wars of the future are predicted to be information wars utilizing realtime information collected through computers. Therefore new military uniforms with computers, communication devices and strong protective capacities need to be developed. This study aims to provide a theoretical basis for designing military uniforms of the future.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.541-549
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• 2015

Korean traditional mask play was done at outdoor to let spectators join the play and take mask at performance and to have disadvantage of poor transfer of dialog to the spectators. Performers transferred dialog directly and/or indirectly by using visual costume, and Tongyeong Ogwangdae with many dialogue expressions concerning the costume made use of proper intention to help spectators understand. In this study, the author watched performance of Tongyeong Ogwangdae to collect and investigate not only image material but also photograph material and to classify intention of the costume into three: First, contents of the dialog were intended to make shape. The costumes of Hongbaek Yangban, Meoktal Yangban and Jorijung of the 2nd section gave spectators contents of the play, and the costume of Halmi Yangban of Nochangtal of the 4th section described dialog of Halmi. Second, dialog had connotative metaphor. The costume of Yeongno of Yeongnotal of the 3rd section symbolized an unfinished dragon, while that of Halmi of Nongchangtal of the 4th section did sacred of Halmi. And, Nongchagtal Ai's costume of the 4th section prayed for value of Ai, richness of the life and fecundity. Third, conflict between characters was intended by indirect media. The costume of Maltukee of metaphor mask of the 2nd section became base of the assertion supporting that Maltukee had better birth history than Yangban had, and the costume of Yeongnoyangban of Yeongnotal of the 3rd section produced conflict at disclosure of identity.

• 복식
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• 제55권7호
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• pp.1-21
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• 2005

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costumes that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde an. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the style of art that Larionov and Goncharova introduced in the 20th century. The research method defined the formation and the progress of the development of the Rayonism centering the works of art by Larionov and Goncharova. Based on this method, larionov and Goncharova designed the set and the costumes for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing an. The result were as follows. First of all, Larionov's costumes of art were all manufactured based on the theme of nature and genesis. In other words, Larionov represented the sun as a humanistic god through the white night, the natural weather condition of northern Russia. His costumes also displayed the symbolic meaning of the personification of animals like birds and cats, which emphasized the importance of both nature and tradition. However, he used Rayonism expression when he designed costumes by applying the nature themes. On the other hand, Goncharova applied the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art lubok, and goldern cockerel or religious icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume design. her design displayed the Rayonism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, whic defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Larionov and Goncharova had one realize that Rayonism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Larionov and Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the 20th century in their costume designs.