• Title/Summary/Keyword: history of clothing and textiles

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A Study on the American Hippies and Their Fashion (American Hippie와 그 복식에 관한 연구)

  • 서유리;조규화
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.19 no.2
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    • pp.278-286
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    • 1995
  • This study, on the American hippies and their fashion, is composed of an examination of the following; the social and cultural circumstances of America in the late 1960's, the charac\ulcorner teristics of the hippies that appeared in the midst of the foresaid background, how those factors materialized in the hippies' distinctive fashion and how they influenced tahion to come. The hippies were composed of the young generation that revolted against all general conventional values of American society and seceded from it, seeking for the ideas of love and freedom. They expressed their newly defined culture-rock music based on drug culture, psychedelic art, rejection of an established society and ethnic tastes that sprang up from nostalgia concerning nature-by means of their own distinctive fashion. And as a revival of the hippies' fashion, neo-hippie and grunge fashions newly appeared in the F /W season of 1992 and afterwards, adding fresher and more abundant sensibility to the original image and layered look of the hippies. The hippies' fashion has not only played a significant part in modem fashion history but will continue to exert its influence in the 1990's as the hippies generation are presently the center of American culture and leaders of world culture. In conclusion, various sorts of "individ- uality" and "the pleasure in the wearing itself" expressed by the original layering of the hippies' fashion presents new promise in the coming development at fashion.

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A Study on Visual Identity of Professional Baseball Uniforms in Korea, America, and Japan - Focused on Color - (한·미·일 프로야구 유니폼의 비주얼 아이덴티티 연구 - 색채를 중심으로 -)

  • Lim, Songmi;Lee, Misuk
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.117-135
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    • 2013
  • With the growth of mass media, professional baseball teams have strived to keep up team's tradition and individuality and build a distinctive image through sports marketing using visual identity. Among others, a baseball uniform is used as a sports marketing tool more than an uniform. Uniform color acts as a distinctive element in team's uniform design and is effective to raise attention, manifest a positive image to spectators, and increase trust and affinity. This study aims to compare and analyze color characteristics and images of professional baseball uniforms in America, Japan, and Korea as visual identity. For this, literature review was made on the history of baseball, uniforms, sports marketing, and visual identity, and then color characteristics and images were analyzed on professional baseball away uniforms in Korea, America, and Japan collected in Internet and official web sites. The results are as follows. First, for color characteristics of professional baseball uniforms, the most frequently used color was R(V) color in Korea, ltGy color in America, and Bk color in Japan. Second, for color images of professional baseball uniforms, the most frequently used image was a casual image in Korea, a dandy image in America, and a modern image in Japan.

A Study on Totemism Costume of Europe Local Festival -Based on the Symbolic Theory of C. G. Jung- (유럽의 지역축제에 나타난 토테미즘 복식 연구 -융의 상징이론을 중심으로-)

  • Uh, Kyung Jin;Ha, Ji Soo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.40 no.1
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2016
  • Traditional costumes have evolved while reflecting the social, cultural and psychological values of the era. Costumes gain meaning by being worn that also allows their various symbolic meanings to be derived. Costumes worn in festivals by specific societies and organizations have especially apparent symbolism pertaining to their purpose. Most countries have traditional festivals that embody the country's distinct culture, history and traditions. These festivals are acts of consciousness expressing a special meaning of the community. Costumes represent a glimpse of life and culture during a festival period; in addition, the costume's style, color elements and decorations are expressions of community values and a distinct symbolic mechanism. Totemism (a significant element of these festivals) has been passed down for many generations. The current costumes for Totemism are distinct (compared to normal festival costumes) and embody a more symbolic meaning. This study deduces the exaggerated style, the concealment and disguise of the human body, and the pursuit of pleasure expressed in the Totemism costumes of regional European festivals. The symbolization theories of C. G. Jung and an analysis of Totemism costumes allow an understanding of their existential significance, their role as the medium between consciousness and unconsciousness, their meaning of symbolic transcendental unity, and their meaning of giving consciousness to the mind.

Fashion as Art through the Expansion of Aesthetic Concept of Contemporary Art and Fashion (현대예술과 패션의 미학적 개념 확장에 의한 예술로서의 패션)

  • Suh, Seung-Hee;Kim, Young-In
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.37 no.4
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    • pp.577-589
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    • 2013
  • Fashion is traditionally perceived as a non-art in art philosophy; however, it is now being evaluated as art through the process of recognizing its cultural value and position. This study investigated the expanded concept of contemporary fashion in the same context of the expanded concept of contemporary art to present the possibility of fashion as art. This study enhances the artistic and cultural value, as well as the social function and position, of fashion by granting it the same status as art according to the concept of expanded contemporary art. For the research method, a literature review and a case analysis were conducted through specialty publications related to art history, aesthetics, and fashion in addition to regular publications, websites specializing in fashion, art museums and fashion style websites. The expanded aesthetic concept of contemporary art has embraced challenges to ideal beauty, production methods through interactivity, and expansion of art expression through mass media and industrial products. In the same context, the expanded aesthetic concept of contemporary fashion has established challenges to conventional beauty, the expansion of production methods, and the expansion and transfiguration of materials.

A Study on the Indian Costume of the Central-South America (중남(中南) 아메리카의 인디언 복식(服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Sun, Jung-Hee;Yoo, Tai-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.3 no.2
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    • pp.49-58
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate a variety of the Indian costume of the Central-South America and to examine the relation and symbolization of each Indian culture arrd costume. A study's method is to be examined through literatues related to the culture and history of Central-South America Indian, photos and references related to costume. The results are as follows. First, an analysis of Indian male of Central-South America reveals that costume types are different according to cultural areas. Second, an analysis Indian female of Central-South America reveals tlrat costume types are differerrt according to cultural areas. Third, a study on colors and patterns of Indian costume and personal ornament in Meso-America culture area reveals that they were influenced on the Maya and Aztec Civilizations. Fourth, a study on colors and patterns of Indian costume and personal ornament in Andes cultural area reveals that they were influenced on the Inca Civilization. Fifth, a type of ponchos is commonly revealed in Meso America and Andes cultural areas because of particular climate. Sixth, a study on Tropical costume types reveals that they are very different from those of Meso-America and Andes culture areas due to its climate and terrain conditions.

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Historical Investigation and Reconstruction of Noeui (露衣) Set (一襲) of Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol (『(인조장렬왕후)가례도감의궤』 노의(露衣) 일습(一襲) 고증 제작)

  • Kim, Nam Hee;Choi, Yeon Woo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.42 no.2
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    • pp.360-378
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    • 2018
  • Noeui was a garment used for women's outfits and robes. In the late Joseon Dynasty it was a special garment that could only be worn by the class belonging to the royal family. Noeui was especially prepared as a wedding dress, and was worn by the bride at the Chinyeong ceremony on the day of the wedding ceremony. Until now, Noeui did not have in depth research at the costume history despite its importance as a royal costume in the Joseon Dynasty. Thus, based on Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol (which is the only material with a diagram of Noeui and its pattern) this study historically investigated and restored the Noeui set of Queen Jangryeol, which was arranged in 1638, when King Injo and Queen Jangryeol were married. This academic study is the first to historically confirm and restore Queen Noeui's set, and rigorously analyze the historical materials as well as provide new comments on the shapes of Noeui's Git and the front side.

A Study of Fetishism in Fashion -Underwear Fetish- (패션에 나타난 페티시즘 연구 -언더웨어 페티시(Underwear Fetish)-)

  • 이의정;양숙희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.23 no.2
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    • pp.272-283
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    • 1999
  • Fetishism originated from the cultural and social products is related to many aspects of arts and sciences ; postmodernism psychoanalysis and subculture of pornography. Fetishism was reflected on fashion and now has been one of hot issues in high fashion, Waist was one of the erotic zone of body both in man and woman and sadomasockhistic fetishism was originated from physical damages on this zone. The aim of this experiment was to study what kind of fetishism was revealed on fashion especially in women and men's underwear fetish. In conclusion fetishism which has a long history and now been a one of popular high fashions in Western society is still unfamiliar to Korean fashion society. Researches of fetishism including deviant sex was still restricted in Korean society due to "Confuncianism" which has been a ruling philosophies in Korean culture. However the sex moral in modern Korean society is now being generous year by year and sex is no more a toboo to talk with. Fashion fashion will increase its market share in near future in Korea and 력\ulcorner studies of fetishism is needed.

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On Ethnic Characteristics of Official Uniforms of Qing Dynasty by Analyzing the Rank System (등급체계 분석을 통한 청조(淸朝) 관복제도의 민족적 특성 연구)

  • Park Hyun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.4 s.152
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    • pp.554-566
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this paper is to understand the ethnic characteristics of official uniforms of Qing(淸)) by comparing the rank systems of official uniforms of Ming(명(明)) and Qing(淸)) dynasties. As research documents, Dai-Ming-Huidian(大明會典)) and Qing-Huidian-Tu(淸明會圖)) have been used. This research shows that there are many traditional characteristics of Manchurians (滿族)) in the official uniforms of Qing(淸)) dynasty. The characteristics are as follows: First, Qing dynasty made their own official uniform based on the traditional Manchurians(滿族)) costume, and added rank system on it. Second, Qing dynasty used the animal's leather as the material of official uniforms and distinguished the level of the uniforms according to the rerity value of rareness, color, and warmth of the leather. Third, Qing dynasty used pearls produced in Manchuria as the highest level, as opposed to jades and rhinoceros horns of Ming. Fourth, Qing dynasty eliminated the animal's rank system of twelve patterns which had been used for whole history of China, but the Emperor is the only man who is able to use twelve patterns. Qing dynasty made her own pattern system of standstill/moving dragons and standstill/moving pythons. Fifth, Qing dynasty used the rank system by colors in the order of yellow, red, and blue consistently over various official uniforms, while Ming used different color orders for different uniforms.

A Study of Expression Methods and Aesthetic Meanings of Maximalism Appeared in Modern Hair Ornaments (현대 머리장식에 표현된 맥시멀리즘의 표현기법과 미적 의미에 관한 연구)

  • Moon, Ji Ae;Kwon, Gi Young
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.15 no.4
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    • pp.493-503
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    • 2013
  • This study analyzes expression methodology and aesthetic meanings in modern hair ornaments that adopt maximalism. Maximalism has appeared in various hair ornaments throughout history. Hair dresses are used for many reasons related to class, social position, religious beliefs, and occupation throughout the Eastern and Western hemispheres. A higher class and social position was often denoted by a fancier and bigger hairdress. In modern society maximalism is expressed in literature, expressionism, maxi-marketing, exaggerative advertisements, and symbolic architecture. Formative expression methodologies in modern hair ornaments that adopt maximalism are transform, overlapping & exaggeration, and mixing & edition. The aesthetic meanings of maximalism in hair ornaments are the reinterpretation of retro ornaments, the exaggeration of internal self-expression, humorous symbolic objects, and the conveyance of a social critical message. The advantages of maximalism help people communicate and co-provide an abundant life. These are expected to create significant and numerous positive impacts in society. In addition, the continued efforts on the investment in hair ornaments that express Maximalism well as a fashion trend shows that further study on the persistence, practicality and recognized design inconvenience in the aesthetic value are needed.

Art Strategies of Luxury Fashion Brand (럭셔리 패션브랜드의 예술 전략)

  • Ye, Minhee;Yim, Eunhyuk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.38 no.2
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    • pp.191-200
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    • 2014
  • This study represents "an artialization of fashion" that may be regarded similar to art with a focus on luxury fashion brands. In the $20^{th}$ century, fashion began to share a similar language with art and became a central part in popularizing art. Fashion and art were drawn to each other in mutual fascination. Fashion studies arouse from disciplines like anthropology, sociology and art history as well as from aesthetic experiences and commercial characteristics. Fashion is very complicated phenomenon; therefore, a study on the artialization of luxury fashion brands needs to be approached for aesthetic and commercial aspects simultaneously. This study combines a literary survey with a case analysis of the relation of fashion and art as well as inquires on the artialization of luxury fashion brands based on discourses. The discourses are: first, fashion is an art, second, fashion and art differ in relation to the intention, third, fashion and art have mutual-borrowing. In view of the results achieved in this study, luxury fashion brands can achieve increased effectiveness through art. This study reveals the effects that luxury brands achieve through art versus a discussion on if fashion is art or not and if the relationship is moral or not.