• Title/Summary/Keyword: historical period

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The Research for Amarican Sportswear - Focusing on Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan - (미국(美國) Sportswear에 관한 연구(硏究) - Claire McCardell, Cavin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan을 중심으로 -)

  • Jung, Sung-Hye
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.15
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    • pp.217-231
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    • 1990
  • The purposes of this study were to research 1) the background of origination, 2) the process of development and 3) the influences to modern clothing culture of American sportswear. The most Influential sportswear designers in America from beginning period to present : such as Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan were selected to study their life and achievements in the world sportswear market. The Results were as follows : 1) World War I & II have caused the greatest changes to modern history America became the center of world economy, society and culture. Politically, they have influenced democracy world-wide and raised the social status of women. The free American women enjoyed sports, Jazz drinking and car-driving. The advanced technology have accelerated mechanization and mass-production to the fashion industrv. 2) The above historical backgrounds have caused to change women's clothing to casual, practical and simple form. Dorothy Shaver at Lord & Taylor began promoting American designers who created the original American spirit. Claire McCardell created the seperated American sportswear to become world-wide fashion. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, the sportswear designers who have the unique American feeling have come to have riches and fames equal to the top designers in Paris. 3) The American sportswear and fashion industry influenced Paris Mode, the traditional Haute Couture to open Pret-a-porter-a-porter. The concept of seperated coordination in American sportswear have promoted the advanced marketing techniques and merchandising systems to modern ready-to-wear industry. Fashion in 1980s have increased the mutual interdepedence between the American sportswear industry and the creative Paris Mode. And then, the fashion world in 1990s and 21C will be changed and developed on the basis of American sportswear mechanism.

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A costume study on the basis of descriptions in the novel Im Kkeok Jeong

  • Kim, Soh-Hyeon
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.36-52
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    • 2008
  • Writer Hong Myung-hee, author of the novel Im Kkeok Jeong, provided an excellent description of the costume customs of the Chosun era, based on an understanding of various historical texts and literature by practical science proponents, and experience gained from the Hong household of Pungsan, a noble family of high standing during the Chosun dynasty. However, there is a tendency towards descriptions of late Chosun era customs, rather than 16th century customs, with the intent of heightening the image of what most people felt to represent Chosun and its prestige, thereby generating greater reader sympathy. Therefore, information on the costume customs of the novel 1m Kkeok Jeong is analyzed and re-formed to fit with the temporal setting of the 16th century. By providing data to aid visual understanding and re-creation, the intent is to accept it as material for the rumination of our ancestors and their lifestyles in the 16th century. The novel provides a good description of Chosun economic customs, in which cotton and hemp were used not only as fabric for clothes, but also as currency. The trade value of cotton drapery or hemp drapery with dimensions of 5 strand density at a length of 35 ja per roll was designated as 5 mal (about 90 liters) of rice by national law, but the actual value varied depending on the production of rice. Also, it is possible to confirm the existence of sang po with dimensions of 3 strand density at a length of 30 ja per roll, or 2 strand density seochongdae cotton, which was used only as currency due to the rough quality. Characteristics of the Chosun dynasty, a class-based society, are described through distinctions of attire. The writer's intent regarding the symbolic nature of attire reflecting social position, a characteristic of the entire Chosun period, is analyzed with the presentation of visual material.

A study of noblemen's grooming styles of facial hair in portraits in the Joseon Dynasty

  • Kim, Yang-Soon;Cho, Hyun-Ju
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.21 no.4
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    • pp.596-605
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to classify and recreate the grooming styles of facial hair sported by noblemen during the Joseon Dynasty. Using existent portraits painted during this period as corroborative materials, this study has identified the traditional grooming styles of facial hair sought by noblemen in this age. This study has utilized 30 facial hair styles found in the portraits of noblemen inherited from the Joseon Dynasty, which take up the majority of the portraits currently remaining in Korea. To recreate grooming styles of facial hair, this study has divided facial hair into three types according to its location: beards, moustaches and whiskers. Based on the analysis of these divided grooming styles, this study has recreated grooming styles of facial hair by using artificial modelling heads, artificial hair, artificial glue, scissors, and a comb. The grooming styles of facial hair recreated by this study are closest to those that noblemen sought and did wear during the Joseon Dynasty. The results of this study are as follows. First, they groomed their moustaches in the 八 shape. Next, they wore their beards in the shape of an inverted triangle. Finally, they also grew and groomed whiskers. Though there are individual differences in the location, length, and volume of facial hair, noblemen in the Joseon Dynasty generally sought to wear their facial hair neat and long. Little research has been done to recreate and present noblemen's grooming styles of facial hair focusing on portraits. Thus, the findings of this study are expected to be utilized as basic materials for the education and research of grooming styles of facial hair according to ages. They can also be used as basic materials for recreating facial hair in historical dramas.

A Study on Land Policy and Land Law in Vietnam after 1945 (1945년 이후 베트남 토지법 및 토지정책에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Seong Hwa;Trinh, Thi Kieu Trang
    • Journal of Cadastre & Land InformatiX
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    • v.47 no.2
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    • pp.255-275
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    • 2017
  • In every country, land has always been considered a particularly important resource and property. For Vietnam, a populous country with a relatively narrow cultivated land, the land is even more valuable because property is scarce in the process of building and developing the nation. Therefore, land administration is highly valued by the Vietnamese government and is a big priority. The study of land law and land policy in Vietnam from 1945 to present is a comprehensive view of the changes in land administration policy in Vietnam in each historical period. The study also provides the experiences and lessons learned in the field of land law and land administration in a country that has risen from the ashes of war, has accomplished reunification and has transformed from a centrally-planned economy, a feature of the communist economy, to a socialist-oriented market economy.

Mathematical and Astronomical Implication of Taegeuk Stone Rods of Kameun Temple Site (감은사지 태극 장대석의 수리천문학적 의미(感恩寺址 太極 長臺石의 數理天文學的 意味))

  • Baek, In-Soo;Kim, Tae-Sik
    • The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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    • v.11 no.3
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    • pp.460-466
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    • 2011
  • Kameun temple was constructed in A.D. 682 after 46 year after Chumsungdae was constructed. This paper discusses the scientific implication of Taegeuk stone rods of Kameun temple site through the geometric analysis of their engraved figures. So we can estimate that the west Taegeuk of Kameun temple site has 2 circles comparing the path of the moon with that of the sun leading to the asymmetry in its emblem(Taegeuk) and the east Taegeuk of Kameun temple site has 1 circle representing the path of the sun. The Taegeuks along with around 30 equilateral triangles representing the north latitude $35.8^{\circ}$ give the explicit information of period of the orbit of the moon and the sun. These mathematical methods can explain some relics structure of antiquity with a few historical expounds.

A Study on Ethnic Fashion from 1980 to 2009 -Focus on the Content Analysis of Vogue Magazine- (1980년 이후 에스닉 패션에 관한 연구 -1980년부터 2009년까지의 Vogue지 내용분석을 중심으로-)

  • Eun, Sook;Park, Jae-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.5
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    • pp.726-739
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    • 2010
  • This study investigates and compares the changes in ethnic fashion presented over a 30-year period to understand the diversity of ethnic trends according to historical trends. Data were collected from 59 volumes of "Vogue" magazine for January and July in each year from 1980 to 2009. The data used for content analysis consists of 407 words and these were condensed into three periods according to the decade (1980-1989, 1990-1999, and 2000-2009). The selected words were classified into five sub-themes according to previous research definitions such as Asian look, European look, American look, African look, and Oceanic look. The results are as follows. First, ethnic fashion was highly presented in the 1990s and 1980s, and decreased in the 2000s; of note is that the Asian look appeared more in the 1990s. Second, ethnic fashion showed a higher frequency of F/W seasons in the 1980s and S/S seasons in the 2000s, while both seasons had a higher frequency in the 1990s. The sub-themes of coexistence were presented 26seasons out of 59 seasons. The coexistence of the Asian-European look was evident in the 1980s and 2000s, while the sub-themes coexistence was more diverse in the 1990s. Third, the words selected from sub-themes of ethnic fashion demonstrated the differences by decade. In particular, various fabrics and patterns appeared in the 1990s.

Study on the American 6,70's Graphic Design Focused on 'Hurb Lubalin(1918 - 1981)' (미국 6,70년대 그래픽 디자인에 대한 연구 - 허브 루발린(Herb Lubalin, 1918~1981)을 중심으로 -)

  • Hong, Mihee
    • Cartoon and Animation Studies
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    • s.49
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    • pp.521-536
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    • 2017
  • Many artists who led European Modernism had emigrated to America from Europe in 1930's after Nazi gave many limitations on art activities. Those artists became professors at the American Universities and started to do design work. So that European Modernism started to be known and gave much influences in America. The designers who was influenced by European artists have stood out in their design work from 1950's. Herb Lubalin, Paul Land, Bradbury Thomson, Saul Bass etc are as the representative designers. Herb Lubalin is one of the most famous graphic designer in 1970's. This study researched historical background how European modernism design has influenced to America. And then analyzed about Herb Lubalin who has influenced from European modernism and led 1960,70's American graphic design. Herb Lubalin identified that typography can be used not only for its original communication function but also the visual expression. Herb Lubalin made numerous new typography expression with his variety experimental sprit and creativity. Also his many different kind of experimental typography raised up a printing techniques in this period.

A Comparative Study on the Style of Clothing of Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe - Focused on Northern Wei Period - (고구려와 선비족 의복 형태 비교 연구 - 북위시기를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, So-Hee;Chae, Keum-Seok
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.63-78
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study is to compare the style of clothing by type of the Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe based on the examination of the literature centered on the historical relationship between Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe. The research results are as follows. First, it was found that both the apparels of Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe had hemp cloth with the V-neckline with the blocked front part and hemp cloth with the open front that is worn by overlapping the straight collars of the upper garment. Both men and women wore the garment of the straight line collar that is worn by folding towards the left or right, or upper garment of the round shaped collar. Women wore an upper garment with short sleeves on top of the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes while men wore pants for the lower garment, and women wore skirt and apron with triangular cloth decoration on top of the skirt. Second, Goguryeo Anak Tomb No. 3 mural painting(year 357) shows that apparel worn by the lady who is the wife of the owner of the tomb is similar to the apparel worn by the lady in the lacquer painting for folding screen of the Sima Jinlong Tomb ancient painting on the woman of chaste reputation in terms of the form and structure.

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Regional Distribution Pattern and Geo-historical Transition of In-situ Stress Fields in the Korean Peninsula (한반도지역의 현지응력장 분포 패턴 및 지질시대별 전이 추이)

  • Synn, Joong-Ho;Park, Chan;Lee, Byung-Joo
    • Tunnel and Underground Space
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.457-469
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    • 2013
  • We have analyzed the regional in-situ stress pattern using 460 stress measurement data at about 100 test sites in Korea, and suggested correlation equations of stress-depth and stress ratio-depth. We made Korea Stress Map(KSM) as in-situ stress fields of the Korean peninsula, combining with a paleo-stress analysis according to the geological period and a stress estimation from focal mechanism. We confirmed the reliability and applicability of correlation equations derived in this study, comparing with worldwide stress-depth patterns, and also estimated the pattern of in-situ stress fields of north-eastern Asia including Korea, China and Japan, comparing with World Stress Map.

A Study on the Late of Chosun Dynasty Food Culture in Giroyeon Paintings (조선후기 기노연 회화에 나타난 식문화에 관한 연구)

  • Koh, Kyung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.144-151
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    • 2005
  • This study examined food culture appearing in Giroyeon paintings in the late Chosun Dynasty (early $17^{th}{\sim}l9^{th}$ century), a period under political and economical difficulties in overcoming frustrations and looking for self-restoration methods after Imjinweran$(1592{\sim}1598)$ and Byungjahoran$(1636{\sim}1637)$. Paintings related to Giroyeon include Lee Gi-ryong's $(1600{\sim}?)$ painted in 1629 under the reign of King Injo $(1623{\sim}1649)$, painted jointly by Kim Jin-yeo et al. in 1720, the first year of King Gyeongjong $(1720{\sim}1724)$ and Kim Hong-do's painted in 1804 under the reign of King Sunjo $(1800{\sim}1834)$ in the early $19^{th}$ century. These paintings over three centuries of the late Chosun show changes in the character of Giroyeon, food culture and tableware culture, etc. According to these paintings, the character of Giroyeon was expanded from a feast held for high civil officials to a banquet comprehending general civil servants. These paintings show Hyangeumjueui, which means the decorum of respecting and sowing the aged men of virtue with alcohol beverage, table manner, seated culture represented by cushions and mats and individual-table culture. In addition, the expansion of demand for sunbaikja and chungwhabaikja and the diversification of vessels and dishes are demonstrated in Giroyeon paintings after Imjinweran in 1592. in this way, Giroyeon paintings show the historical characteristics of the late Chosun Dynasty, such as the collapse of Yangban-centered political system, the disintegration of the medieval system due to the emergence of the Silhak and the diversification of food culture.