Jo Taek-seung(曺澤承, 1841-1907), who devoted himself to medical science mostly living in Haenam, and his son Jo Byeong-hu(曺秉侯, 1869-?) are significant in the history of Korean oriental medicine. The medical science of Jo Taek-seung appointed as Jusa(主事) of Hyeminwon(惠民院) in 1902 was handed down to his only son Jo Byeong-hu, who succeeded to his father's medicine and polished up the medicine, and recorded the results "Sanghangyeongheombangyochwal(傷寒經驗方要撮)" in 1933. Jo Taek-seung's portrait has been handed down to Jo Taek-seung's descendents' house in Munane-ri, Haeman. Not only does Jo Taek-seung's portraits well present the features of portrait mode of Joseon Dynasty period in the 19th century in their front view, exposure of two hands, expressive mode, background articles, etc, but also praises, poems, etc. giving information on manufacture intent, etc. to give prominence to the authors recorded by Jo Taek-seung, time of manufacture and position of medical official appears in one screen. In this paper, through disaster-removing poetic sentence showed in Jo Taek-seun'sg portraits, it was found that the author of the portrait is Choi Byeong-uk who worked mostly staying in Seoul and the present portrait was the one re-painted in 1907 by revising the portrait painted in 1894 when Jo Taek-seung was 54 years old, after Jo Taek-seung died. With regard to revised portion, presuming through records on the picture and comparative analysis of mode with portraits of doctors in the 20th century, it seems that the clothing of Confucian scholars in the first version was revised into the clothing of medical officials showing the position of Jo Taek-seung who took office as Jusa of Hyeminwon at the time of re-painting the portrait. Jo Taek-seung's portrait not only becomes important materials in the oriental medicine and historical world in the aspect of manufacture process, mode, etc. of Korean portraits including an aspect of medical official's portraits, but has significant meaning from the aspect of fine art history or clothing history.
Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
/
1986.07a
/
pp.93-101
/
1986
This study aims at analysis and application of PMP(Probable Maximum Precipitation) for the determination of design of major hydraulic structures. PMP was estimated by hydro-meteorolgical method and envelope curve method. PMF(Probable Maximum Flood) was then estimated from this PMP by synthetic unit hydrograph method and chow method. From the comparison of three methods for PMP estimation of magnitude of PMP in order of statistical, hydro-meteorlogical, envelope curve method. Amon PMP results estimated by each method it is believed that the hydro-meteorological method gave the best proper value in comparison with historical maximum rainfall because of this method reflected upon all meteorological factor. From the comparison of PMP with probable rainfall and flood, it was shown that estimated value by statistical method and hydro-metelogical method were nearly equivalent to the value of return period 200 to 500 year. It was found that PMF estimated from would be more safe for the design of major hydraulic structures in the consinderation.
Hydrological system forecasting, which is the short term runoff historical data during the limited period in dam site, is a conditional precedent of hydrological persistence by stochastic analysis. We have forecasted the monthly hydrological system from Andong dam basin data that is the rainfall, evaporation, and runoff, using the seasonal ARIMA (autoregressive integrated moving average) model. Also we have conducted long term runoff simulations through the forecasted results of TANK model and ARIMA+TANK model. The results of analysis have been concurred to the observation data, and it has been considered for application to possibility on the stochastic model for dam inflow forecasting. Thus, the method presented in this study suggests a help to water resource mid- and long-term strategy establishment to application for runoff simulations through the forecasting variables of hydrological time series on the relatively short holding runoff data in an object basins.
The purpose of this study was to understand sexuality expressed in fashion in a discursive view and reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion in the 19th century in Foucauldian post-structural perspective. As for methodology, at first the conception of sexuality was examined from structural feminism to post-structural pluralism by a literature review and discussed in relation with the matters of body and fashion on the basis of Foucault's discourse. Then, sexuality represented in the 19C fashion as a case study was re-estimated in terms of power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses and mainstream fashion and anti-fashion as well. The conception of sexuality in Foucauldian post-structuralism maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by discourse and power produced in a specific historical context. In the Foucauldian perspective sexuality expressed in the mainstream fashion and anti-fashion in the nineteenth century shows the following aspects. The mainstream fashion in the middle and latter of the 19C made the clear sexual difference in dress of plain and functional male suit and extravagant and decorative female dress on the center of bourgeois masculinity in the context of modernity and capitalism. Although anti-fashion was also co-existed with the mainstream fashion, it was criticized by the Victorian people. It codifies sexual ideology of the binary opposition of male domination and female subordination. Therefore, the traditional sexual ideology in the 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the clear sexual difference in dress in the period.
The purpose of this study is to typify femininity and masculinity represented in mainstream women's and men's fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and infer sexual ideology appearing in contemporary Korean society by content analysis with the view of plural sexuality. For the content analysis total 259 editorial fashion photography was analyzed. As the result, 5 femininities and 5 masculinities were typified, and then sexual discourse was inferred out of the frequency of each type and texts with the images. On the basis of previous studies and historical considerations of this topic, the types of sexuality represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 were classified as follow.: in women's fashion magazines Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity were almost similarily dominant sexuality, and Glamor Femininity, Babydoll Femininity, and Genderless sexuality were alternative. Meanwhile, in men's fashion magazines Traditional Masculinity formed clear dominant sexuality, and Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity, and Genderless sexuality were alternatives. In addition, Androgynous Masculinity in women's fashion magazines occupied the highest frequency, while Glamor Femininity in men's fashion magazines did so. From this sexual discourses represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 are as follow.: First, mainstream fashion in Korea sticks to the modern values preserving traditional sexual ideology even in this postmodern period of the former 21C. Second, Androgynous Femininity as another dominant femininity with Traditional Femininity connotes the change of conception of femininity in Korean society. Third, Androgynous Masculinity to females is preferred, while femininity to males is still regarded as fetish or adorned object. Fourth, the appearance of various alternative sexualities leads to pluralization of sexuality, and then fashion gradually codifies youthfulness and feminine values, such as body and sexual desire more than before.
Many cultural heritages for the modern ages in Korea are becoming lost rapidly as a result of subsequent technological innovation and changes in industrial structures and other reasons. But they are indispensable for an understanding of history, tradition culture of Korea, and form the basis for development and advancement of future culture at the same time. Therefore, this study is aimed to review the protection of cultural heritage in Japan, establishing the protection policies in Korea. In Japan, The Advisory Committee for the Preservation and Utilization of Modern Cultural heritage was organized by The Agency for Cultural Affairs. And this classified modern cultural heritage into four fields, as like; (1)monuments, (2)buildings, (3)fine arts and historical heritage, and (4)life, culture, and technology to pursue concrete research and study. The next step is tarrying out investigations to identify these cultural heritages, which were once the backbone of Japanese modernization and are now in the process of being lost, in an effort to preserve them as cultural heritage of the Japanese modernization period. The investigation will have conducted on an about eight year scheme starting with 1996. And it's will ask all local boards of education(of the prefectures, cities, towns, and villages throughout the country) to supply all related records or documents available and to cooperate in field studies. So now, many cultural heritages for the modern ages in Japan have been designated as Important Cultural Properties, Registered Tangible Cultural Properties, Monuments, etc. And they have been prepared various tax policy(ex, reduction of the real estate tax). Also, that's examples are not only one by one but magnified with protection of large-scale construction associated with region. In addition, magnified with region's activities. In conclusion, in the process, protection has been extended to a broader variety of cultural properties and much consideration has been given to the methods of protection in Japan.
Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.
This study explores women's Wonsam in the 18th century. Wonsam was women's wedding dress, one of the representative ceremonial garments of Korea. Wonsam began to appear in the excavated clothes around the 18th century, and we can find drawings and records of the period in Yongjae Collections by Kim-kunhaeng. The form of Wonsam after the 17th and 18th centuries showed the changes in which Seop and Mu disappeared in Baeja form of Danryoung(團領) and the right and left symmetry and side slits were highlighted. The change also included wide and long sleeves and Sakdong(색동) colorful strips on the sleeves), Hansam ornaments, and the use of the belt, which means the change of Baeja composition into our traditional costume of the age. Through the Colletions, we notice that women wore Wonsam in different colors and with varying hair accessories according to the nature of ceremony, the social status, and marital status. Concerning Wonsam, the color of clothing for the dead woman was green(喪禮), while that for marriage ceremony was red(婚禮). Wonsam with the light color was for ceremonial clothing(祭禮). The women who served in the palace wore green Wonsam and Geodumi, while a bride at the marriage ceremony wore red Wonsam or a red long-sleeved robe with Jokduri. At the ceremony of Hyeongunorye, women wore Wonsam with a wig. the dead woman wore Yemou.
Understanding the purpose and results of a Korean Envoy's medical bureaucrat (attendant) travel to China. Unlike other Envoy's medical bureaucrats, envoy's trade made profits for those who participated. This article investigates the protocols of a Korean Envoy's medical attendant which include: (1) A prominent family member or high-ranking official does not participate in the Envoy's medical bureaucrat, either himself or his descendants. This denies the general theory that the medicinal material trade helped the economic status of medical officials. (2) Envoy's medical bureaucrat is a high percentage of interpreter bureaucrat in the households of father, mother, and wife. This suggests that the information about the envoy schedule and the benefit of the envoy may have been exposed in advance. This is related to the fact that the interpreter bureaucrat is the center of the envoy trade. (3) In the nineteenth century, envoy's medical bureaucrats were more frequent among close relatives, such as father-son relationship, than in the previous century. This study restored the lineage and purpose to the medical bureaucrat's travel to China, and provides a list of Envoy's medical bureaucrat through historical data, and analyzed the household and previous office. In this regard, it can be seen that some households, which are not dominant medical bureaucracies, have pursued profit through medicinal material trade. However, it is difficult to generalize to the whole of the medical bureaucracy.
This paper discusses the social changes in the late 19th century that provided a historical background in the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing in the West. It examines the social meanings of the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing at the time and traces the origins of these social characteristics to the book published in the $16^{th}$ century by Thomas More, Utopia. The results of this study can be summarized as the following. First, the appearance and expansion of the ready-to-wear clothing coincided with the social transition from a class-based society to a democratic society in the west in the $19^{th}$ century. Second, uniforms were produced in the $18^{th}$ century Europe in order to distinguish different classes and ethnic groups, with the military uniforms being the most visible example. Frequent military campaigns in Europe resulted in the increasing demand and expansion of military uniforms, which later became the basis of the standardization of the men's clothing with uniforms. Third, the women's ready-to-wear clothing appeared later than their male counterpart and was made possible by the simplification of design, an important characteristic of women's wear in the later period. Fourth, the social characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be traced to a democratic and egalitarian society without personal properties that was depicted in the book of Utopia by Thomas More. Fifth, one of the characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be found in the description of Utopia, in which everyone in Utopia wears a clothing of the same form for life.
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