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The Grotesque Fashion in modern Fashion (현대 패션에 나타난 그로테스크)

  • 최정화;유영선
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.40
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    • pp.151-170
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

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A Study on the Image Communication of Military Style in 20th Century (20세기 밀리터리 스타일의 이미지 커뮤니케이션에 대한 연구)

  • Cho, Jung-Mee;Yoo, Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.8
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    • pp.1309-1321
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    • 2008
  • Military style is not limited to a single period but represents various image communications related to items, synthetic images and different periodical culture backgrounds. The purpose of this study is to define the communicational function of the military style beginning from the 1st world war up to the modern days, and furthermore explain the characteristics and contents of military styles in different periods by studying the nowadays various symbols of the military style in denotative and connotative aspects. The research method is documentary studies through the literature and academic paper, and examined masters' and doctors' thesis, domestic and overseas books and fashion magazines, photographs and materials collected from the internet. As a result, first, the military style is a significant fashion code in understanding modern fashion by serving as a strong communication function representing people’s ritual through various image items called the 'military look'. Second, the meaning of the image communication through military look changed throughout the different periods. During the 1st and 2nd World war the military look supported Fascism by serving as a media representing extreme patriotism and at the same time social images like functionalism, women liberation, regulation and saving. During the cold war period it was used by young progressives like hippies and punks to send an opposing message towards war and commercialism. Since then up to the 80s it was a medium representing the ‘new role of women’, who possess same social rights and power as the men. However in the 90s the military style had to go through a paradigm transition period. Since this period it got affected by the post modernism and designers, consumers alike adopted military style to create unique beauty It can also be said that it began to be used as a pure fashion code representing intertextuality. It was rather expressed as a metonymy than a metaphor and combined with elegance and feminine factor, which contrasts to the original military concept, it now represents totally new hybrids such as difference, dissemination and varieties.

The Origination and Changes of Street Fashion (스트리트 패션의 발생과 변천)

  • Jung, Kyong-Hee;Yoo, Tai-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.71-83
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the present fashion phenomenon by considering the types of street fashion, the center of avant-grade modern fashion, that shows the origination background and special feature concretely. The times was defined through the 1980's from World War II that street style originated, so the range of study was the 1990's when the street style was influenced by that of the past and was revived. The ways of study were to analyze the records of ideology, art and music connected with the street style from World War II to the present when it has risen. The summary of result is as follows. (1) In the 1940's, Zooties was the jet of desire suppressed by African-Americans that couldn't receive favors socially and economically and Hipsters pursued reformative bebop that made up of soft Jazz. In the 1950's, Modernists were running after Cool Jazz to the minimum. In the 1970's, Funk appered in the sexual desire and erotic strength, and was surfaced from Negro Getto. In the 1980's B-boys & Flygirls showed the street style by the scribble art of slum in the New York. As mentioned above, In the 1990's, Acid Jazz influenced by the Jazz of Negro has been the fashion added to the tradition of musical form that come from eclecticism of Jazz tended Neo-Jazz. (2) In the 1940's, Western style dreamed the country life because of rapid urbanization. In the 1950's, Beat obtained the feeling of liberation from the dissolute life and activity. In the 1960's, Psychedelics showed the freedom affected by the Pop-art and Op-art, and Hippies pursued the true individuality as 'love & peace' life style and the return to nature. In the 1990's, Grunge look influenced by the above has been fashion that shows the practical use of second-hand clothing or patchwork contrary to elitism. (3) In the 1940's, Caribbean style appered in the typical textile color with the center of West Indies. In the 1960's, Rude boys showed the magnificence and difficulty of Jamaica, and Rastafarians had a tendency to come back to the ancient civilization of America. In the 1970's, Two-tone was the simple clothing for harmonizing among human races. In the 1990's, Jamaica look influenced by the above has been the Lege fashion introduced to a high fashion, appearing in the special bright color, applique, unique hair style, and so on. (4) In the 1950's, Sufers pursued natural rhythm, getting out of everything. In the 1970' s, Skaters enjoyed the speed on the paved road. In the 1980's, Casuals emphasized the spirit of cooperation of young-things. In the 1990's, Casual look Influenced by the above has been the fashion that forms the activity, function and strong spirit of cooperation by pursuing comfortable life and sports in the tension of life and variety of modern society. (5) It was hard for Bikers to adjust themselves in society after the war. In the 1950's, Coffee bar cowboys were the reckless running boys in the leather jacket. In the 1960's, Rockers created the group originality as disobedient outsiders and Greasers imitated Rolling Stones. In the 1980's, Punks resisted the viewpoint of the old generation in offensive fashion. In the 1990's, Cyberpunk influenced by the above has pursued the classless structure, electronic music and metallic clothing that forebodes gloomily as the computer generation of ultra-modern science times. Accordingly, in understanding a complex modern fashion phenomenon, it was analyzed that the street styles of the past, from World War II to the 1980's, were reflected in that of the 1990's dividing into the five types in a word, namely Acid Jazz, Grunge look, Jamaica look, Casual look and Cyberpunk.

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