• Review of Culture and Economy
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.141-173
• /
• 2018

In this article, we explore how artistic fame is formed by analyzing antecedents of fame the extent to which the name of an actor or his/her work is positively known by his/her audiences among Korean handicraft artists. Drawing on prior literature on reputation and fame, we clarify the differences between the concept of reputation and the concept of fame and further distinguish three types of reputation among individual artists, depending on its sources expert reputation, market reputation, and peer reputation. We employ the mixed method in this study, in which we first conducted open-end interviews with three kinds of constituents (i.e., critics, market intermediaries, and artists) and then developed and tested the hypotheses derived from the insights we had obtained from the interviews. We further considered the impact of reputational work, defined as the level of effort devoted and activities performed by an artist him(her)self geared toward promoting his(her) work, on artistic fame. We find that there are large differences in factors associated with artistic fame between non elite and elite Korean handicraft artist groups, where elite status is captured by artists' educational background (i.e., Seoul National University and Hongik University, which are considered elite schools in accordance with prior research). Specifically, findings suggest that among non elite status artists, recognition by experts, or what we call expert reputation, acquired through national awards and invitations from prominent exhibitions as well as artists' own reputational work that incurs high cost, such as self-financed exhibition openings, were shown to be highly significant factors associated with artistic fame, which was measured as the number of media exposures related to her/his art work. By contrast, among elite status artists, peer reputation acquired through an artist's institutional affiliations and relatively low cost artists' own reputational work, such as self listing on a highly publicized magazine, were shown to be significant factors associated with fame. Taken together, this paper contributes to research on cultural industries and markets by highlighting the importance of understanding artistic fame not just as the outcome of her/his talent but as the social product that arises at the intersection of actors (artists) and her/his audiences in the social evaluation process.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.1 s.66
• /
• pp.152-168
• /
• 2007

The aim of this study is to shed light on essentials of Suprematist artists focusing on Malevich and their works in relation to modem design, and to examine their roles in the modem design industry compared to those of modem designers. The study obtains the following result on Suprematist artists and their works in Russian avant-garde in terms of modem design. Firstly, Suprematist artists had a great deal of interest in practical design although it seemed Suprematist were replaced by utilitarianism in avant-garde during the Russian revolution. Secondly, Suprematist artists were the first artists to bring the birth of modem design trends by applying their art in geometric forms to clothing and fabric design as well as ornaments and handicraft. Thirdly, the artists' attempt to work with needle workers made it possible to set achievements in design and modem decorative art exhibitions in various fields of art-life. As for the role of modem designers, Suprematist artists including Malevich have significant meanings as follows: Firstly, Malevich was a creative, future-oriented artistic designer who realized zaum of painting on the stage and created suprematistic mode in a cosmic point of view in order to agree with the environment. Secondly, Suprematist artists knew the importance of works that were produced by craftsmen and worked together with them. Therefore, the designers could maintain fabric decoration in difficult conditions knowing the importance of the high value-added industry. Thirdly, they were artists in real life who embodied the ideas and theories of Suprematist in sample works by recognizing the need of changes in life environment: they planned to set a new visual world in art but did not confine the idea only to painting.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
• /
• v.24 no.1
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 2013

Since the 1980s the development of American art furniture was embodied its concept by second-generation furniture artists affected and educated from the first generation that has implanted art furniture fundamental values. Besides, embracing inevitably needs of the new era going with the social change rather than dwell on the nature of mere handicraft era, it has evolved with economic revival in the United States, the attention and increased consumption of the public, and ongoing government-sponsored. And more recently, the American contemporary Art Furniture faces another change in the non-boundary phenomena between art and design. American art furniture since the 1980s are summarized as three major trends: Art furniture embellished with traditional hand-craft, Art furniture featured the individualistic avant-guard characteristic, Art furniture eroded the distinction between art and design. By analyzing focusing on the furniture artists and their works in contemporary art furniture deployment aspects since the 1980s, the purpose of this study can be utilized as a method to measure the forward direction, internationally competitive, creativity, and artistic value of the domestic art furniture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.3
• /
• pp.133-151
• /
• 2007

The role of fabric now directly related with the expression of the beauty of clothing and it provides new and creative ideas. This study was aimed at reviewing basic data that can be used in systematic design development through fabric expression for today's fashion designers who must study unique, original fashion design development. For systematic development of design technique through fabric expression, fabric expression methods and characteristics, aesthetic characteristics and fabric design of 'art to wear' were reviewed and the results are as follows. First, the highly wrought fabric expression of art to wear was confirmed to be comprehending a message within itself. Second, aesthetic characteristics of fabric expression used in art to wear can be classified as decorativeness, extensity, 2-D pictorialness, handicraft, compounding and rearrangement, and 3-D characteristics. Third, the 6 aesthetic characteristics have unique design features and aesthetic categories. The understanding the fabric expression techniques through study on the classification of the fabric expression in 'art to wear' is expected to be extended to proposition of creative direction and inspiration of modern fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.283-295
• /
• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.1177-1192
• /
• 2011

As a free creature that can fly in the sky, the bird has been an object of admiration and mystery and a mediator between human beings and the heavens. This study aims to clarify the aesthetic value of birds through study of the various expressions of the bird image on clothing and by the formative will of designers. Based on the general examination of the bird image through the study of documents, this study is composed of a case analysis, which reveals on modern fashion designs. Additionally, the forms of expression of the bird image are organized according to the stereoscopic expression of shaping, the relief expression of handicraft decoration, the flat expression of surface design, and the characteristic expression of wings and feathers. The aesthetic characteristics revealed by the expression patterns are metaphorical symbolism, surrealistic humor, lyrical naturalness, and fantastical femininity. Since antiquity, the bird image continuously recreated by artists has offered aesthetic value in terms of formativeness in the external form and symbolism in the internal form. This study would help to understand the diversity of creation in contemporary fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 2015

This study shows how the plastic furniture design has developed in general and by contemporary auteurist designers. Plastic furniture design began with Mies van der Rohe's chairs produced with compression moldings, and was later successfully commercialized by Knoll and Herman Miller. Plastic undoubtedly played a significant role in giving modern furniture design its current status with its suitability for efficient mass-production. However, the expectations consumers have for designers have extended by the widespread internet accessibility along with the higher standards of the well-developed design industry, and now mass-production is no more the only key to appealing to those in need. Based on the information gathered from the process above, analyses were done on the works of various design artists in the current industry, which leads to certain suggestions that would help bring the plastic furniture design to the next level as a whole.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.29
• /
• pp.143-158
• /
• 1996

It was the year of 1903 when avantgarde artists in Vienna gave a birth to the Wiener Werkstaette under the influence of Aesthetic Movement and Guild of Handicraft from England. This study is on the backgrounds of the birth of the Wiener Werkstaette its artis-tic motto and world-wide echo it provoked. This thesis goes back to the time when the decadent Wiener Secession shaped up refiewing the Reform Movement It also covers characteristics works of major members of the Wiener Werkstaette which were produced on the basis of the concept of Gesmtkunstwerk, The conclusion of this study is that : 1. Without losing its own specifc features various fields of formative arts were combinded together coherently and succeeded to realize the idealistic art that is the com-posite are 2. The Wiener Werkstaette was strongly opposed to the ready-made clothes which be-came popular as the society was Industrialized and commercialized. unlike those ready-to-wear clathes those members of the Wiener Werkstaette preferred to make each clothes with different mateirals and printed their own unique pattern designs. 3.As a results of close relationships between the Wiener Werkstaette and paul poiret 'Stu-dio Martine' was established in paris and new pattern deslhns were introduced by Raoul Dufy. 4. After the break-out of World War One cultural exchanges with other foreign countries were vuirtually cut off and the Wiener Werkstaette was disconnected from the influence of Parisl That was the motive for Wiener Werkstaette to start building up its unique artistic style with peculiar materials techniques and methods of productionl Those brisk and creative activities of the Wiener Werkstaette brought forth "the Golden perlod of 1920s" 5. Its historic design and ornamental pattern were assessed as a prelude to the Post-mod-ernism Since the late 1970s with the redis-covery of the culture of vienna in 1900s. the Art to wear which was created by the 'Wiener Werkstaette' but unfortunately tucked away by the Greate Depression and nationalism has been revaluated and studied. In Korea it was since 1985 when 'the art to wear' began to gain attention widely. It is urged that the theory of the 'Gesamtkunstwerk' should be also ac-cepted and shared earnestly.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.74-90
• /
• 2010

The history of contemporary art in the 20th century can be said the history of changes. Today the variety of objects destroy the boundaries of each genre. This study aims to understand the relationship between fashion and art that becomes closer by examining contemporary art in the Gwangju Biennale 2008 to enlarge the range of understanding of mutual communication between contemporary art and fabrics which are the object of fashion. The research method was to investigate the characteristics and expression methods of object fabrics shown in contemporary art through the review of papers published at home and abroad, related literatures, and Internet materials. Also, the meaning, technique, and methods of fabrics were analyzed from works introduced in the Gwangju Biennale 2008. In order to achieve this purpose, fabric was examined as the object of work in Gwangju Biennale 2008. As a result, it is found that fabric plays an important role in changing environment newly with more dynamic, abundant, and comfortable and softer feeling than any other artistic materials and enlarging the boundaries of artistic materials by exploring formative possibility. Furthermore, its multi-dimensional expression characteristic presents unbounded possibility. Fabric which has long formed close relationship with human life has taken its place as one genre now. It departs from the past principles of fabric handicraft and the restriction of a classical norm and becomes characteristic of very wide-ranging selection of materials and free expression. Its soft and warm texture provides emotional stability for a human. Although the peculiarity of fabric as an active concept to human environment and new materials and technique based on the aesthetic consciousness of a human rely on the high development of industry, it is significant that artists' liberation from their concept and material sense is accompanied by the expression of freedom.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.5-14
• /
• 1999

From the middle of 1970s were founded new basis for the development of craft through the co-operation of the civilians and the authorities. First, Korean Culture and Art Foundation founded in 1973 held the 'Invitation Exhibition for the Craft Artists All over the Country' in 1974 and 1975 and The National Museum of Modern Art held the 'Exhibition of Modern Korean Handicraft Art' in 1975. Second, the policy emphasizing the export and tourism provided the basis for the development of design for export goods and souvenirs of tour. H\therefore the exhibitions of such goods were held by many organizations. ] In 1970s departments of craft and design were newly established in the universities so that the third generation of Korean craft was on the rise and their groups began to hold exhibitions in commercial galleries. Reflecting on such circumstances, 1970s was the period of blossom for Korean craft while 1960s was a sprouting season.