Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. Also, operas are increasingly performed outside traditional theaters as the boundaries between stage and audience become less obvious. Accordingly, stage costumes are being differently designed than before. New attempts are being made to look costumes in a harmony with increasingly streamlined stage machinery. This helps increase public attention on operas, consequently promoting the opera industry. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the crowd are drawn from this study. A variety of splendid pink dresses, ribbons, dolls, hand mirror, and hair bands were used to express haughty girls with "Princess Syndrome." Fashion models, the envy of all woman, wore fashionable clothes including luxury dresses, fur-coats, high heels, purses, and hats, Models also had big shopping bags and gift boxes to symbolize shopping lovers in a modern society. Gay men wore tight leather trousers and vest and sleeves shirts with deeply cut neckline to express their preference for feminie style. their clothes were splendid colors that normally women liked such as gold, purple, light green, scarlet, and silver. Soldiers were in combat uniform representing their participation in the war. In particular, clothes stained with dirt, iron helmet, crutches, and canteens were used to vividly express soldiers coming back home from the war. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency, and meet the audience's needs for various style.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.36
no.7
/
pp.767-777
/
2012
This study analyzed the system and arguments on the light-pink official uniforms and investigated the backgrounds and principles on the changes of the Sibok system. A study on light-pink danryeong in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty is a de facto study on Sibok since the name of the light-pink official uniforms (implemented at the time of King Seonjo) changed from Sangbok to Sibok. Sangbok is discussed to explain the name change from Sangbok to Sibok and distinguish their usages; in addition, Gongbok is examined to understand the characteristics of the Sibok system. The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty (books written by scholars) and related laws are used as research materials. The research results are as follows. The name of the light-pink uniforms (a custom before the Japanese invasion in 1592) changed from Sangbok to Sibok at the time of King Gwanghaegun and the light-pink uniform was used as a relatively light formal uniform compared to Sangbok. Sibok was added to the law Sok-dae-jeon at the time of King Yeongjo (because the king respected the custom) and its color rank system was denoted from light-pink and red. Sibok was revised to light-pink, blue, and green under the law Dae-jeon-tong-pyeon that was promulgated at time of King Jeongjo. In the development of the Sibok system in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty, the color rank system of Gongbok was reflected. The sovereign ideas in the official uniforms in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty (revealed in the study of the system and arguments on the light-pink official uniforms) were the thoughts that respected the custom and the principles that distinguish ranks to establish a Confucian based hierarchy.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.33
no.3
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pp.457-466
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2009
The purpose of this study is to research the similarity and difference of color application in culture of Korea and China. The subject of this research is the costume color of Changgeuk and Beijing opera. First, a bibliographical inquiry includes the attributes of cultural color in Korea and China and the costume attributes of Changgeuk and Beijing opera. Second, this survey analyzes Munsell's 3 attributes(Hue, Value, Chroma), tone by extracted color data. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The cultural color factors of Korea and China are classified geographical factor, internal cultural factor and external cultural factor. 2. Changgeuk costume much more used high value and medium & low chroma for korean temperate climate. But Beijing opera costume prefers high-medium value and low chroma color, various ranges of color because of China huge land and various climates, as geographical factor. 3. Changgeuk costume much more used YR color(no-dyeing color) because of korean white robe preference. Beijing opera costume much more used R color than Changgeuk costume because of traditional preference of R color, as infernal cultural factor. 4. Changgeuk costume and Beijing opera costume show the practical use of ascetic cole. like as jade green. Ojungsaek much less used than Obangsaek by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine, as external cultural factor.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.31
no.8
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pp.1297-1309
/
2007
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of shirt color, tie color, tone, perceiver' gender on impression formation by applying tone-in-tone coloration of shirt and necktie: coloration of two colors. This experiment was designed to utilize the $2{\times}6{\times}4{\times}2$ factorial designs. and they are shirt color(red, blue), tie color(red, yellow red, yellow, green, blue, purple), tone(vivid, light, dull, dark), and perceiver' gender(a male, a female). The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 48 upper body photographs which were color outputs by CAD system(4D-box program). The subjects of this research were 288 male and 288 female college students. There were established impression dimension from factor analysis 27 bi-polar adjectives and investigated the effect of interaction between each variable affected impression formations. The items of the adjectives are classified into 4 Impression dimensions: activity, potency, attractiveness, and tenderness. Shirt color, tie color, tone, and perceiver' gender influenced on impression formation. Specially, tie color and tone influenced on the 4 impression dimension greatly by interaction as well as independently. As a result tie is very important clue of impression formation in tone-in-tone coloration of shirt and necktie. Even though tie occupies only a small area in men's clothes it has great effect since it is close to the face.
Lee, Sun Young;Lee, Seung Goo;Kim, Jung Hwa;Lee, Jung Soon
Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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v.21
no.4
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pp.781-790
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2012
In midst of growing interest and awareness towards sustainability and being "green", there has been increased demand for sustainable clothing. In the purpose of boosting eco-friendly textiles industry, this research was conducted by investigating environmentally-conscious clothing behavior of university students and assessing their views on eco-friendliness of fibers. Thus, their awareness on recycled polyester fiber was evaluated. The research was conducted by surveying 257 university students residing in Daejeon. The data were analyzed with descriptive statistics, factor analysis, and reliability analysis, using SPSS 19.0. The results were as follows. 1) The majority of the subjects answered "Disposing clothing in the clothing recycling container" to reduce environmental impact. 2) Six factors of eco-friendliness of fiber were extracted as reutilization, unfinishedness, economics, environment preservation, natural materials, and slow fashion by using factor analysis. 3) Subjects scored organic cotton as most eco-friendly among various fibers. Recycled polyester fiber was graded less sustainable than natural fiber, but more eco-friendly than artificial one. 4) In assessment of subject's awareness of recycled polyester fiber, they highly valued on resource-reutilization and economics, but less valued on its hygiene, thermal insulation and health-functionality.
With increases in the amount of spare time by many and with increased social interest in health, the sportswear market is steadily growing. Thus, sportswear companies are putting more effort into developing their websites for differentiation strategies. It is possible to deliver effective images with the use of proper colors in websites. This study aimed to analyze the colors of websites of sportswear brands' and to compare their characteristics. Thirty-seven brands were chosen and classified into three groups: active sportswear, outdoor wear and golf wear. 168 color samples in total as main colors, sub-colors and accent colors were collected from the first screen of each websites. The colors were analyzed by Musell's 10 hues and by the 12 tone classifications of PCCS. The results indicated that white is the color most often used as the main color and sub-color on these websites. There were differences among the colors of the three groups. Both active sportswear and outdoor wear have a similar tendency in terms of their use of colors and tones, while golf wear is different from these two groups. Active sportswear websites and outdoor wear websites frequently used red and vivid, bright tones for their accent colors. In comparison, Green Yellow and light grayish tones were most commonly used as accent colors in golf wear websites.
In picture bible, the picture is helpful for showing story more vividly and specifically and it is helpful for finding the meaning of bible hidden behind familiarity. It plays the role of the most powerful testimony and expression, with which human provides himself. The purpose of study was to grasp the relation among historical background of the middle age, human's characteristic and symbolic color by considering the fact that the costume expressed in Maciejowski Bible, which is a picture bible of the middle age and observing type, color and decoration of costume. Among 46 folios organizing Maciejowski Bible, 129 pictures explaining the Book of Genesis, the Book of Exodus, the Book of Leviticus, the Book of Numbers, the Book of Deuteronomy, the Book of Joshua and the Book of Judges, which belong to the former 400 years of the old Testament, were analyzed for people's costumes. The pictures shown in Maciejowski Bible portrays object, costume and behavior on the background of France of the 13th century so we can find out the precious natures of middle age's costume, weapon and armor. Especially, the portrait about finger armor of chain mail attached in hauberk becomes the outstanding evidence that can encroach the discussion over whether it was used in the end of 1300s. Regarding costumes of main characters, they wore chemise and braies as underwear, wore tunic or cotte having various lengths from the length reaching knee to the length reaching 8round as basic costume and wore mantle with different-colored lining and hose with various colors. In the war picture, we can see hauberk made with chain mail and cyclas with long slit, which was worn over hauberk, barrel helmet, norman helmet and steel school cap. Regarding cap. man usually wore coif, beret, shade-shaped cap, straw hat and woman wore the decoration using veil and hairlace and used the method to wrap whole hair with net. As the colors used in the costume of the picture bible, scarlet, blue, green and brown were usually used in order. They usually wore costumes decorated splendidly with the colors haying hish brightness and chroma.
In 2013, Baz Luhrmann's movie re-made Fitzgerald's novel, "The Great Gatsby". In Novel, readers keep trace of the plot with their imagination, but in Movie , movie director comes together to create visual and auditory elements of it. Daisy Buchanan is a fashion icon, wearing Prada, Chanel, and Tiffany's jewelry, which reproduce the costume of Jazz Age, and make viewers well understand that of Jazz Age. Symbols like "Ash Valley", "Green light", "East Egg", "West Egg" are presented more directly in movie. Roaring parties held in Gatsby's great mansion was made by computer graphic, and its enormous scale also reflects the mental chaos and the material affluence in those age. Additionally, actors excellent show highlights the theme of the novel. With the adaptation of novel, the film finally achieves more appealing art in front of the public. This thesis investigates these more logistically with the materials of internet.
The carboxylation of the fluorenyl epoxide with a spiro framework, 9,9'-Bis(4-oxiranylmethoxyphenyl) fluorine (2) was catalyzed by some onium salts such as quaternary ammonium and phosphonium salts to produce the corresponding five-membered cyclic carbonate (3) in an efficient and environmentally benign fashion. The coupling reactions depend greatly on the kind of the halide anions and alkyl chain length of the onium salts. While the reaction was sensitive to the reaction temperature, the reaction trends suggest that the catalytic efficiency of the quaternary ammonium halides may correlate strongly with the melting points of the halides. The reactions using a catalytic amount (2 mol %) of quaternary ammonium bromide with an n-butyl chain at 75.9 bar of $CO_2$ and 393 K give the highest yield of the cyclic carbonate (92%).
The late $19^{th}$ and early $20^{th}$ centuries of Korea were the times when the Confucianism (牲理學) ideology was shaken heavily under the influences of modernism and capitalism by Western and Japanese military and political-economic forces. Under such circumstances, alteration of clothing was much influenced by ideologies than changes in social structure or technological advance. In this study, an ideology was defined as "the force which drives people into a particular social order". Ideologies were postulated as an ongoing process of socialization with dialectic features rather than being a static state. Comparative analyses on conflict structures and different clothing patterns symbolizing the ideologies of the Ruling (支配) and the Opposition (對抗) were conducted. Investigating dresses as representations of ideologies is to reconsider the notion of dichotomous confrontation between the conservatives (守舊派) and the progressives (開化派) and a recognition of Koreans' passively accepting modernity during the Japanese occupation. This may also have contributed to enlightening Koreans about modernization. Here are the results. First, the theoretical review found that ideologies were represented by not only symbols of discourse, but also dresses, and that dresses embodied both physical and conceptual systems presenting differences between ideologies and their natures, Second, during the late 19th century Korea, conflict between conservatives' Hanbok (韓服) and progressives' Western suits (洋服) was found. Moderate progressives showed their identity by "Colored Clothing" (深色衣), and radical progressives by black suits with short hair (黑衣斷髮) or by western suits (洋服). The ultimate goal of both parties was a "Modern Nation". With these efforts, pale jade green coats and traditional hats symbolizing the nobleman class was eliminated within 30 years from 1880 to 1910, and then simple robes and short hair emerged. However, the powerful Japanese army had taken over the hegemony of East Asia, and Korea was sharply divided into modernization and pro-Japanese camps. Third, during the time of Japanese colonial rule, the dress codes having set by the modernization policies during the time of enlightenment were abandoned and colonial uniforms for the colonial system was meticulously introduced. During this period, Western or Japanese-style uniforms were the symbol of the ruling ideology. In the mean time, Hanbok, particularly "White Clothing (白衣)", emerged as a representation of the opposition ideology. However, due to Japan's coercive power and strong zeal for "Great orient (大東亞)", white clothing remained as a mere symbol. Meanwhile, Reformists (實力養成論者) movement toward improving quality of life followed a similar path of the Japanese policies and was eventually incorporated into the ruling ideology. Fourth, dresses as representations of ruling ideologies were enforced by organizational powers, such as organizations and laws, and binding policies, and changes in such dresses were more significant when the ruling ideologies were stronger. Clothing of the opposition ideology was expressed as an aggregation of public consciousness. During the period, the subjects of ruling ideology and the objects who were granted modernization benefits were different although their drives for colored clothing with short hair (色衣斷髮) for modernization were similar.
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