• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.138-146
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• 2008

Opera costumes are a tangible medium to directly affect how opera singers performed. Therefore, stage costumes have been designed in various ways to reflect intentions of directors. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust" which was played in Sung-Nam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the supporting actors are drawn from this study. Martha wore a grey jacket and a long skirt with slash. Grey suit symbolized chastity but tight long skirt with slash means sexy. Valentin wore military and combat uniforms to express that he was a soldier. The military uniform represented the situation before the war and the combat uniform symbolized the situation after the war. Rather short trousers, a white tweed jacket, purple flower ornament, a light green vest, and a beret were used to express Wagner, who looked ridiculous and always tried to flirt. Overalls, a blue jumper, and a scarlet baseball cap were used to make Siebel look naive and homely. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency and meet the audience's needs for various style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.413-423
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• 2013

Chlorophyll is an abundant pigment found in all green plants, algae, and cyanobacteria. This study uses methanol, acetone and water to extract spinach and mate powders in order to examine the possibility of dyeing animal fibers with chlorophyll without chemical alteration. It was shown that methanol extracts of spinach and mate powders can be effectively used to dye wool and silk fabrics if the extract is mixed with water by methanol:water 65:35 v/v. Compared to methanol extract, the acetone extract showed lower chlorophyll yield and lower dye uptake. Water was not an appropriate solvent for chlorophyll extraction and dyeing. Spinach powder showed a higher dye uptake than mate powder due to the higher chlorophyll content than mate powder. It is possible that the chlorophyll dyeing of wool and silk fabrics is due to the hydrogen bonding between the hydroxy amino acids in fiber and the carbonyl groups of chlorophyll. These carbonyl groups are on the heterocyclic ring and the methyl and ethyl side chains of chlorophyll.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to find the aesthetic characteristics of costume design as mise-en-scène in movie 'The Danish Girl'. the methods of this study was carried out prior research, literature studies and qualitative research of visual content analysis by DVD. The spatial and temporal scope of the study is Copenhagen, Denmark from 1926 to 1931, and Paris, France. The styles of the times(1925 ~ 1931) and the spatial sensibilities of women's costumes in terms of form and color were examined thorough out the story. As the results, the costume are based on the 1920's Art Deco style like straight silhouette and some of them are oval soft silhouette. The colors are harmonized or in conflict based on Nordic colors such as blue-green, gray and yellow. Rather than expressing the internal conflict between the two main characters, the costume was focused on the role and character. And also exotic tastes like Japanese and Egyptian textiles patterns and decorations. Therefore, it was found that the movie costume played a role as one of the very important mise-en-scène.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.675-683
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• 2002

The purposes of the study were to analyze the changes in formal attires and decorative features of middle age Korean women during the last half of 20th century and to find out any significant differences in formal attires according to periods. The study was a documentary research, and data were collected from 344 family wedding photographs by convenient sampling. The statistics used were content analysis, frequency and a time series analysis, and the results were as follows : 1. Four schematic clusters of formal attires were categorized according to skirt(chima) length and width, jacket(jogori) length, motifs and decorative features; simple classic, decorative classic, fashionable, and extravagant fashionable. Simple classic attires were popular until 1960s, the decorative classics were appeared from late 1960s to 1970s, fashionable attires were introduced from the late 1970s and the attires became more luxurious and extravagant until 2000. 2. Color symbolism in couples mothers'attires according to the couples gender - pink or red for the bride's mother and blue or green for groom's mother - was introduced from the late 1970s, and reached the maximum level by the early 1980s but slowly disappeared after the late 1980s. 3. The complete fashion cycle did not exist in the formal attires'change, however, since the Period of data were ranged from 1943 to 2000, the 57 years period may not long enough to measure a complete fashion cycle.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.29-38
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• 2005

Natural dyes have attracted the worldwide attention because of its environmental advantage over synthetic dyes. However, most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store. In this study, coffee waste were used as natural dye to create beautiful colors. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provides a comparatively regular quality regardless of seasonand source. The effects of mordant agent concentration and mordanting temperature on dyeing efficiency of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordants. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color. The increase in mordant concentration did not always increase the dyeability, and 0.5% o.w.f. mordant concentration was enough to get a satifactory result. Mordanting temperature also had little effect on the dyeability in case of Al, Cu, and Sn mordanted fabrics. Only Fe mordanted fabrics showed a better dyeability in the increase in mordating temperature. Coffee extract dyeing is an effective way using waste as resource and can create brilliant colors with minimal amount of mordant and under mild mordanting condition.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.5
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• pp.753-767
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• 2019

Dyeing behavior of indigo leaf powder was examined in regards to the effect of the amount of pigments on color and dye adsorption for silk dyed by reduction and nonreduction dyeing. The amount of indigotin and indirubin pigments adsorbed in dyed silk was examined by HPLC-DAD analysis. The color of dyed silk showed 7.7BG - 2.7B hue when silk was dyed at $50^{\circ}C$, and 3.5G - 4.9BG when dyed at $70^{\circ}C$. Blue ($b^*$) and green ($a^*$) color decreased as the pH of dyebath increased. When silk was dyed using nonreduction, R (red) and RP (red purple) hue and R hue was more apparent in samples dyed at $90^{\circ}C$. In reduction dyeing, amount of indigotin detected from silk exceeded the amount that was initially contained in the input dye. The amount of indirubin was lower than indirubin that was initially in the powder. In nonreduction dyeing, silk showed a higher amount of indirubin adsorption compared to silk dyed by reduction. The amount of indigotin adsorbed in silk was lower than the amount initially contained in the input dye. The amount of indigotin and indirubin adsorption was primarily dependent upon the dyeing method-reduction or nonreduction along with dyeing temperature and the pH of dyebath.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.64-71
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• 2019

Climate change and global warming are the biggest challenges of the current generation. Every industry has contributed to the climate change and global warming. Even the apparel industry cannot avoid the criticism regarding fast fashion and its contribution to the pollution. The transition to the decarbonized economy is in progress. All aspects of business functions are influenced by climate change. Sustainable development and climate change are closely linked, and business plays the key role in addressing and finding solutions to the challenges of climate change. Luxury brands are the trendsetters and tastemakers. They are the leaders in the fashion industry and therefore responsible for improving on sustainability as well. Even luxury business cannot avoid environmental issues. The relation between luxury and sustainability is explored with the Burberry case based on the Triple Bottom Line (TBL) framework. There are various ways for luxury brands to excel in sustainability and affect other companies' practices. The companies can incorporate the concept of sustainability in their brand stories as part of the branding process. They can also improve demand planning accuracy and produce upcycled goods. Centering on Burberry's case, this paper aims to explore the current sustainable practices of luxury business along with its future direction toward sustainable development. Its contribution and directions for both researchers and business practitioners are discussed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.108-125
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the technical pattern and product characteristics of outdoor sportswear marketed in Northern Europe and North America. Based on the results of this study, we wanted to provide practical data on the characteristics of products with high functionality and fashionability for developing outdoor sportswear. Therefore, in this study, technical pattern, textiles, details, sewing, compatibility with wearable devices, and certification of 33 marketed outdoor sportswear were analyzed. After analyzing various technical patterns, the bent arm pattern using two-piece panel and a raised arm pattern connecting the side seam with the inner seam of the sleeve appeared on the top. Additionally, the patterns of bent legs with darts in the knee, cutting the posterior, and inserting the gusset in the crotch were mainly seen in the bottoms. By analyzing product characteristics, ergonomic pattern design for easy activity and functional materials was used for climate adaptation in extreme outdoor wear. On the other hand, for outdoor wear meant for trekking or hiking, details, such as portability and easy storage, were considered. Eco-friendly materials were used while ensuring light weight and comfort. Furthermore, for convenience of life, safety, and health, wearable devices were integrated into the outdoor sportswear. Eco-friendly green certification of outdoor products was obtained for the labor environment and production process, and relevant information was provided to consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.201-215
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• 2014

This study explores the kinds and types of dyes used in the Joseon Dynasty. Some literature including "Sanga Yorok", "Gyuhap Chongseo", "Imwon Gyeonjeji" were reviewed for this purpose. The findings are as follows. The colors obtained from the dyes were divided into seven color series, such as red, yellow and orange, green, blue, purple, brown, gray and black. These are practical color categories differed from abstract five cardinal colors [五方色]. The diachronic dyes used during the Joseon Dynasty were safflower and Japanese alder bark for red, indigo leaves for blue, gromwell for purple, chestnut tree bark for brown. The representative dyes used in the late Joseon Dynasty were safflower and sappan wood for red, wild pear tree bark and Pentapetes phoenicea for yellow and orange, indigo leaves for blue, sappan wood and gromwell for purple, mulberry tree for brown, and Chinese ink for gray. Common dyes used both in Joseon and China were safflower and sappan wood for red, pagoda tree blossom for yellow, a combination of pagoda tree blossom (or Amur cork tree) and indigo leaves (or sediment) for green, indigo leavers or sediment for blue, sappan wood and hollyhock for purple, and a combination of indigo leaves and Galla Rhois for gray and black.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.631-655
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• 2022

Modern Hanbok tends to use new colors based on traditional colors and their symbolic meanings. In addition to the traditional colors, various expressions have been increased, it is necessary to consider the color and color trend used in modern clothing. This study focused on the period 2011 - 2020 and analyzed the main color and coloring method of top and skirt by year with 450 data from a total of 81 wedding magazines. The results of examining the characteristics of traditional colors during the target period are as follows. First, the main color of the Jeogori showed a distribution of various colors in the first half, but the main color of the skirt concentrated on black, white and light pink in the second half. Second, while the use of blue and green systems decreased, Dang-ui color changed to warm yellow, green, and red systems. The Baeja used plain dark white in the first half; however in the latter half, they changed to white or accented colors. The one-piece used various colors in the first half, but only black and white appeared in the second half. Third, in the upper and lower colors of Hanbok, the blue-red color, the traditional contrast color of the first half, decreased significantly in the second half. The appearance rate of proximity for the complementary color harmony of white-red color and the adjacent color harmony of white-blue increased.