• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.121-134
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• 2004

Wiener Werkstaette(workshop) established in 1903 was an artistic handicraft working group, the central figure of which was an architecture, J. Hoffman. Especially its textile design part established in 1910 produced good results. The textile design part of Wiener Werkstaette took total artwork (Gesamtkunstwerke), which Pursued artistic work in all visual parts of life, as a central concept of their work and tried to insert the artistic creativity into the textile design. Regarding the influence relationship between Wiener Werkstaette textile design and formative art, it was influenced by the geometric tendency of C.R. Mackintosh and the style and motive of Japanese art. From 1910's, bright, vivid and cheerful designs were mass-produced by uniquely using various motives, techniques and colors. The formative significance of Wiener Werkstaette textile design are as follows. Firstly, the pattern includes both rational and sensual elements. Secondly, the aesthetic patterns of Wiener Werkstaette include formative elements anticipating the modernism. The leading artistic sense like this played role of catalyzer through which the golden age of artistic decoration, art deco, came. The significance of the textile was made aware through clothes design . The clothes design made with Wiener Werkstaette textile conveyed message as art to everyone and provided the elite of society supporting them with Proud that they are fashion leader ahead of times and have artistic sense. Wiener Werkstaette textile design like this played big role as an instrument for realizing the total artwork by attaining the new artistic formative fruits.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper is a perspectiveon the reformative costume expressed by Gustav Klimt who led the Secession Movement as a great master in Vienna. Klimt actively expressed a new costume style in his paintings, which influenced heavily on the modern costume design. This paper may contribute to reestablish the constructive direction for the 21st century fashion design based on Klimt's pursuing holistic art concept. The reformative costume in Klimt's paintings has two characteristics; ornamentism, eroticism, and reformativeness. Ornamentism is expressed with fantastic colors, various motives, exotic features, simple style clothes, and so on. Klimt used independent ornaments to express carnal desires metaphorically, which set ornaments free to lead spectators to the dreamy or elusive state and even have spectators indulged in ecstasy. As the Secession Movement focused on reforming all areas of life artistically, the costumes of Klimt's paintings symbolically express the reformativeness; he portrayed the woman in the early 20th century and sought to reform its contemporary value as a visual sensuality. Klimt tried to disrupt from the former era by over-emphasizing eroticism. The erotic expression with the colors and the style of ornaments substitute naturally for suggestive eroticism of the feminine body. With has creativity, Klimt has spectators extract the various senses from the female image in his paintings. Klimt's creative spirit on the holistic art concept could be helpful to develop a unique design as a catalyst foreseeing over the present.