• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.49-61
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to understand the new generation's culture and to analyze if the characteristics of their lifestyle is significant for the study of new generation's fashion. The new generation's characteristics of lifestyle can be described as a strong pride of their own self and the life which expresses that pride. To analyze this characteristics connecting it with fashion, it is as follows: -It is the egocentric sensitivity culture. In their fashion, there appears a tendency that sense and individuality are counted much rather than fashion. -Diverse fashion information is gained through the mass media and communication. The sense for fashion is liable to change according to the circumstances and, simulated world is made. -The sense of denial is not shown much to the western lifestyle and way of thinking owning to the international open culture. Their consciousness and favorite of fashion are beyond the border. The new generation showed the unprecedent way of expression, denying the established form, and this is defined as Borderless fashion. The Borderless fashion leads a whole trend of new generation's fashion in the late part of ninties. Two typical trends appear as Genderless look for the individualic group and Romanticism look laying stress on womanliness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.6
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• pp.994-1009
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• 2017

This study defines the concept of 'Effortless Chic' that continues to lead fashion world trends in a social climate not to bound by formalities that also consider changes in the term's meaning. Effortless Chic can be defined as behavior or fashion expressed in a refined, gracious manner, with skillfulness that does not show physical or mental efforts. Effortless Chic has the characteristics of being classic, fashionable and genderless, smartness which appropriately matches high-priced and low-priced brands, being eclectic between glamor and simplicity, or unconventional that also includes convenience, functionality, graciousness and softness. Active use of fabric with ease of care and use of design items capable of a variety of styling regardless of the season shows that effortless chic is receiving a strong attention thanks to the trend of eased TPO norm application. In conclusion, effortless chic shown in modern fashion does not mean an actual lack of endeavors as indicated by the word itself or low-priced fashion items, but can be seemed as another name for luxury represented by naturalness that hides the efforts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.137-147
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• 1998

Fahion as the form construction of decon-structivistic architecture was analyzed by dividing it into the intrinsic aspect and the formal aspect through an introduction of three characteristic architectural principles into fashion. Intrinsic deconstructivistic fashion as the construction of architectural form has the mixurte of genders both in a form of transvestic and in a form of genderless look as dualism, and can be characterized by pluralistic nationlism with the emergence of the Third World alienated from the international society, and so forth. Difference and the prefixes of dis-and de- are schizophrenic mystic illusionism, chance effect and the differance of space and time and is supporting Jacques Derrida's chiasmus that is the perspective of collage in painting and the multiple observation of collage in painting and the multiple observation point as the play of borrowing the surrealistic technique. The formal construction of deconstructivistic fashion the construction of architectural form has intertextuality material, hybridization of items and the blending of modes and another sphere. Trace as icon deconstrucion attains historical analysis. Dis and de in fashion are showing the retrogre-ssion of gravity through decomposition, decon-tinuity and disjunction emerge nonstructural silho-uette, juxtaposition, inversion and replace- ment of underwear and outer garments. Their decentring expression emerged as construction through mixture and repetition as well as overlapping of planes or spaces. And their disjuctive representation appeared in the form of mutual juxtaposition and substitution with the double-side of formal construction in functional terms.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.144-160
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• 2020

Today, the development of innovative technologies is accompanied by changes in the industrial structure and the Big Blur phenomenon, where the boundaries in various fields are blurred. The purpose of this study was to view the Big Blur phenomenon as a big paradigm shift in the 21st century and derive environmental changes and characteristics of the Korean fashion market. The research method included an analysis of the fashion brands after 2015. Through this study, we intended to establish a framework for understanding the changes in the fashion market from the perspective of Big Blur and discuss the direction of brand marketing. The research results showed the hyperlinks, connectivity, openness, homeostasis, synchronicity, mobility, interactivity, and brand experience of online and offline spaces beyond the boundaries of virtual space and offline physical spaces such as online physical and spatial viewpoints. It also showed the characteristics. The characteristics from the socio-cultural point of view were characteristic of diversity, mixture, coexistence, composability, and pluralism beyond the traditional socio-cultural and regulatory scopes. Hip hop fashion, street fashion, unisex, genderless, androgynous fashion, and kid fashion are the backbone of the Big Blur and are becoming important factors in fashion. The characteristics of the market and economic viewpoint are prosumers that play roles both as producers and consumers. It shows the extensibility of consumers as producers, the cohesiveness of producers and consumers, the cooperation, and the interconnectivity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.96-117
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is focused on revealing teenager characteristics and mass culture in the end of the 20th century, and researching the general traits of teenager costume in the latter half of the \`90s and the typical style based on the analysis of the teenager culture. The result of this study are following as; The general traits of teenager costume are classified with sports-orientation, brand-orientation, and foreign street fashion-orientation. Typical styles are classified with sportive look, hiphop look, and funny look. Sportive look became the core of the street fashion developed with the street sports in the city, and presented the practical use with the fashionability mixing sportswear such as hightech snickers, sports character wear and items. Hiphop look, the genderless fashion, expresses teenager\`s free life style and the diversiied sensibility and deconstructs the border of gender, racism. Funny look accepts the burden of the millenium as a humor and presents katharsis by creating unexpected style. The contemporary costume of teenager deconstructs the fixed idea about mix and match, good taste and bad taste, gender, coordination suited with T.P.O and intends ‘open costume’ for 21st century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2021

The development of the Internet has led to the emergence of an internet meme culture using duplication. This phenomenon has appeared in the fashion field as 'fashion memes' and its playful expression has helped it to spread. Vetements is one of the well-known brands that actively incorporates fashion memes into their fashion. The purpose of this study was to examine the playfulness of Mikhail Bakhtin's Carnival Theory and identify the playful identity, design characteristics, and implications of Vetements' fashion memes in light of Bakhtin's playfulness. The research methods were literature research and collection case analysis, and empirical content research was conducted in parallel. The scope of this study was fashion memes shown in the products from 2017 S/S to 2019 F/W. The study results showed that Bakhtin's playfulness could be divided into "playfulness in the destruction of hierarchy", "playfulness in grotesque imagery" and "playfulness in the emphasis on the lower bodily stratum". Based on these findings, the playful identity of Vetements' fashion meme images can be described as follows. First, it breaks down the existing order of fashion brands like the destruction of hierarchy in Bakhtin's theory. Second, it is grotesque; it is strange, eerie, yet ridiculous at the same time. Third, it is a playful metaphor of contamination, filth, and lower stratum. The modes of embodiment of such identity include Vetements' collaboration with famous brands, the use of cheap items, and the expression of genderless ideas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.109-123
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• 2004

In this study, the fashion trend after the 1990s and the characteristics of fashion in the postmodernistic viewpoint that mainly effected fashion were observed, and the characteristics of fashion illustration expression was observed in the viewpoint of its link. It can be seen that mutually close characteristics are mutually linked. As the result of this study, the characteristics of fashion illustration can be categorized into three areas. and the sub-concepts are as following. The first category is the pursuit of feminine beauty of individual multi-dimension. This includes- 1) retro feminine beauty; 2) fetishistic and ecstatic feminine beauty; 3) mixed composition genderless (mixed composition style. ageless style and raceless style): and 4) beauty of body deconstruction and reconstruction (deformation due to partial transformation, change into animalization, mechanization and spirituelization. and beautification of crudeness). The second is the intentional deviation of expression and production technique. This includes-1) deviation from traditional perspective; 2) deviation from composition concept: and 3) breaking away from the existing material and expression technique of material. The third is the pursuit of authority-rejection form of expression. This is an area that should be noticed in the fashion illustration expression of the 1990s, as it shows the most diverse phenomenon. The sub-concepts of this category include- 1) separation of art 2) minimalism (minimalism in structure and production method); 3) flatness; 4) completion of incompletion; 5) accidentalism; 6) sportive;7) absence of figure; 8) intentional childishness 9) story development; 10) techno mechanism and cyber character; and 11) animation style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1003-1013
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• 2009

This study offers data that can be used to direct the styles of black dresses by looking into the characteristics of coordination in black fashion, which is continuously appearing at modem. fashion collections with a unique aesthetic value and image. This study examined the characteristic of fashion coordination of black color: First, to look at the fashion image of black color, second, to look at the characteristic of black color coordination appearing in black fashion, and third, to look at the method of coordination appearing in black color. This study collected and selected 560 black pictures that showed the fashion collections from 2005 S/S until 2007 F/W. As for data analysis, the researcher made a content analysis by classifying the pictures by item, material, accessory, and a coordination method. The research results are as follows: First, the fashion image of black color was expressed as sexy feminine, modern chic, modern future, genderless, and avant-garde images. Second, the fashion coordination of black color has the characteristics of sexiness and dignity by the use of body exposure, concealment, and a subdued line that expresses a modern, minimal atmosphere. The mix & match of materials expressed the monotony of one color as refined beauty and the use of accessories appeared to bring the image into relief. Third, as for the coordination method, pants on skirts, pants on dresses, piece coordination of code matching, plus- one coordination through vivid colors and accessories, and cross-over coordination relying on shape, material, and sense were prominent.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.222-239
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• 2021

In this study, six mainland Chinese designer brands-Xander Zhou, Sankuanz, Sean Suen, Feng Chen Wang, Pronounce, and Angel Chen-were selected that had their works presented at both Chinese and global fashion shows between 2016 and 2021. By analyzing the design characteristics of each brand, it is possible to understand the style characteristics and trends of Chinese menswear designs. A case study approach was adopted utilizing literature data, whereby 1663 photos were collected from the fashion information website POP (www.pop-fashion.com). Changes in Chinese men's image and the menswear market were identified. The design characteristics of modern Chinese menswear are as follows. First, the results from analyzing the target brands show that each brand has a distinct personality. Compared with the traditional or formal style, urban casual and sports styles (based on street style) account for a larger proportion. Second, the boundaries between different styles are becoming ambiguous, and contrasting styles are harmoniously expressed by breaking down boundaries through changes and combinations of colors, materials, and details. Third, after examining the overall trend, 2018 was a watershed point, after which the design trend has changed from either conservative or exaggerated to a practical and everyday style, demonstrating a genderless trend.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.165-184
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expanded characteristics that can be found in the fashion designs of JUUN. J. For the study, the concept and discourse related to theme expansion have been theoretically reviewed, and various types of expansive characteristics were derived by reviewing prior research related to the keyword expanded characteristics. Photo data required for the analysis were collected through the official website of JUUN. J and Vogue, a worldwide fashion magazine. The scope of the survey was limited to 983 photographs collected from 28 collections from 2009 S/S through 2022 F/W. The results are as follows. First, the expansion of the human body, which is achieved by adding an empty space between the body and the clothing or using various materials to express the volume of the body, is expressed through two different forms in the designs of JUUN. J. Second, the expansion of time expresses the combination of different timelines, the meeting of the past and present or awe toward the unpredictable future. Third, the expansion of style, which is expressed by reinterpreting existing costumes or styles, is a type of expansion' that appears individually in the fashion designs of JUUN J. Such expansion of style can be found in the military inspired designs. Fourth, the expansion of space, which diversifies our perception of space by re-recognizing the concept of space, was implemented into the works and designs of JUUN. J through the convergence of different cultural aspects. Fifth, the expansion of gender, which is expressed through the continuous exploration of the borders of gender and the delivery of social messages, has appeared in the works of JUUN J. in the form of genderless design.