• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.55-64
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• 2024

This study investigated the usage and product conditions of clothing companies and online dummy companies for the development of fitting dummy for South Korean women's wear in their 50s and 60s. These women-targeted apparel companies mainly used nude-sized torso type and torso crotch type made of FRP material. The frequency of use of the dummies was high, while the user satisfaction was moderate. Users expressed dissatisfaction with the inaccurate reflection of the body shape according to the KS sizing system and the measurements such as the front and back intercye, upper arms, abdomen, crotch, and waist back length. Upon survey, 73.7% of the respondents answered that development of the dummy and the appropriate age for it is 50 to 54, and they preferred the torso crotch form. In the production of online dummy companies, the torso crotch type and torso type were most widely produced, and polyurethane, FRP, and recycled paper materials were used. The size of dummy was expressed in numerical type, and 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 and 44, 55, 66, 77, 88 were being produced. Even models of the same size had significant deviation, especially in the waist circumference. Also, there was no dummy reflecting 25%~75% center interval to the KS garment sizing standards of women in their 50s and 60s. Therefore, it is desperately necessary to develop a fitting dummy for KS clothing sizing system that reflect their body sizes and shapes.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.94-114
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• 2001

Men's Po of (he Chosun period became simple and stable in shape as the nation moved from its early to late period. Re lines of the external structure of the clothing shows the beauty of the garment. Re lines generally derive their beauty from curved lines, gradually replacing the straight lines of the earlier part of the Chosun period. The linear beauty of the external structure of men's Po is found in the outline and silhouette. Generally in the early Chosun period it could be seen that H-shaped silhouettes, narrowed strips and flexible drapes descending to the ankles were still in use from the period of the Koryo dynasty And in the 17th century, or the mid Chosun period, considerable numbers of H-shaped drapes with wide sleeves and side Moo were seen. At the beginning of the 18th century, voluminous A-shaped outlines appeared. From the late Chosun period through the mid and late Chosun period, or the 18th and 19th centuries, the from silhouette changed from voluminous A-shapes to narrower H-shapes. The beauty of the lines of the external structure of men's Po is due to its harmonising with the straight body lines of men. The straight Git of the early Chosun period harmonises beautifully with the straight Baerae and Doryun and the curved Git of the later Chosun period similarly harmonises with the curved Baerae and Doryun lines. The shape of men's Po has a balance betweon right and left, centering around the Sup lines. The sleeves have the balanced beauty of vertical lines. Git and Sup have beauty through the balance of oblique and straight lines while Baerae and Doryun have similar balances through curves. Jikrung, Chulik, Dapho's side Moo, coat strings, Doryun and sleeves drape, all of which are manufactured by means of plane cutting, Pow together beautifully. Re Git, Sup, and the silhouette and drape of men's Po, which are also manufactured through plane cutting, make the wearer look tall and at the same time express the beauty of mature manhood. The linear beauty shown in men's Po during the Chosun Period have beauty through harmonizing with straight and curved lines, beauty balance, beauty of flow, beutity of emphasis and beauty of optical illusion.

• 감성과학
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.117-126
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• 2017

본 연구에서는 직/편물 8종을 대상으로 이들 수직방향과 수평방향 수분이동특성 측정방법에 따른 소재들의 수분이동 특성을 분석하였다. 또한, 8종의 시편의 MMT에 의한 건조특성을 수직 건조 측정 결과와 비교하여 논의하였다. 수평수분이동 방법인 MMT 시험 결과는 수직법인 바이렉 방법의 결과와 유사한 거동을 나타내었다. 대나무, 린넨 및 면/나일론 복합 소재는 드롭법의 흡수시간은 짧았으며, 표면의 낮은 접촉각 및 직물의 높은 다공성에 기인한 것으로 판단되며, 친수성 스테이플 섬유의 구조와 상관이 있을 것으로 보인다. MMT에 의한 건조특성은 니트 및 대나무 직물의 최대 흡수반경이 가장 우수했으며, 수식 건조법에 비해 차이를 나타내었다. MMT 방법의 건조속도는 직물의 두께와 포화수분 흡수율과 높은 상관성을 가졌으며, 회귀계수는 각각 0.9와 0.88이었다. 이는 직물의 두께가 얇을수록 위킹 및 건조특성이 우수하며, 기능성 소재기획시 착용 내구성을 판단하는데 중요함을 의미한다. 또한 상이한 섬유소재, 실 및 구조의 소재에 대한 수분이동특성(위킹, 건조)는 측정 방법에 따라 다른 결과를 나타내었다.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제6권
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• pp.140-202
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• 2004

Body means 1)the whole structure and substance of a man, animal, or plant 2) the trunk or torso of a man or animal 3) part of garment that covers the trunk 4) the fresh or material substance, as opposed to the spirit. Human body could be distinguished as fresh and spirit. Body has the meaning of physicality. Physical means the bodily and constitution, but in the meaning of constitution there is the content of spirituality. Physicality means the appearing or arising of trace or image or nuance of body. The paintings which are using bodies are 1) directly draw bodies 2) twisting or transformation or nuance of the body and highly upgrade the physical emotion or fantastic bodily nuance 3) directly rubbing artist's body on the surface of painting with pigments to elect tactile specification. These physical art have appeared broadly by various artists, mainly with the social aspects of sex, drug, psycho sexual issues. In case of Joel peter Whitkin, the reason of strong physicality in the art is from the mind of the rejection and resistance of real world which is targeting top, perfect and beauty. Further explanation, being the world which is separated top and under, men and women, beauty and ugly; further in the situation, the hierarchy, terror and pressure began and many difficult problems has derived. The contents of attacking feminists's art works are very obscene to reveal female and male's phallus strongly. Sometime, it is strongly related in the political issues. The physical paintings have strong meanings in the action by hands and feet. It supports that it could reveal the humanity with smell, breath, and traces of bodies. In the bodies, the origin of life begins which gives human life by blood lines and water. Sometime, the physical paintings are made by the blood and urine to stick the physicality for special nuance. The physical paintings are made by the image of penis and clitoris which are related in the image of urinating, ejaculation and sometime is symbolized as pens and candles to drop liquid. The selected painters who are related in physical painting are Jackson Pollock, Andrea Serano, Eve Klein, Francis Bacon, Francesco Clemente, Lichard Long, Jakes & Dinos Chapman, Anselm Kiefer, Kiki Smith and Park, Ki Woong. Francis Bacon's style is destructive in representing human shapes which give us special message about the unbearable activity of men politician, high brain, wealthy and religious people. Francesco Clemente's method is to use throat, ear hole, mouse, clitoris, belly nostrils and every holes of body to transmute human physical body. Lichard Long uses directly his body in drawing the surface of painting by using liquid of mud Jakes & Dinos Chapman destroys or transforms the bodies of human. It sometime appears wrong location of the bodies that the penis and vulva is in between human faces or nose of women, Anselm Kiefer uses human hair for representing the human decaying martyrs, and indirectly using straw, he gives special ritual action to repent the Nazi's fault. From 2002 to 2003, Park KI Woong used women womb images to intermingle the smoke shape of <9.11 terror, 2001> in New York to reveal the painful situation of the time(*).

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.305-323
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• 1996

The purpose of this sty is to forecast the tendency of clothing colors, to provide materials useful for making the color plan for a better costume, and suggest new information in the apparel industry. To achieve these purposes, this study was carried out by suggesting vogue colors of recent apparel, along with the 20 standard colors of Muncell to 350 men and women in their 20s residing in Taegu.. We analysed and compared their preferred colors in suits vidual factor ;age, sex, education ,skin color, and body shape, and additionally classifying their interest in clothing colors, cause for color selection , degree of interest in color of clothes, color satisfaction of apparel market, and color combination of clothing, color satisfaction of apparel market, and color combination of clothing. We compared these elements according to their age, sex, and education. The results of this study is summarized as follows; 1. It was shown that both men and women in their 20s preferred warm colors the first colors mentioned being the most popular ; Pastels, Red, Blue and Black. They disliked dark and sordid colros in the order of Mauve, Khaki and Red. They preferred wearing Pastels and Yellow in the Spring, White, Blue, and Pastels were the favorites for summer, Beige in autumn, and black, Gray, and Beige in winter. The repugnated colors they chose two wear were Black, Red, Mauve, Khaki in spring and summer. Mauve, Red, Yellow were favorites for autumn, and Blue·White, Yellow·Green, and Pastels in winter. 2. The preferred colors for T-shirts were Yellow, Pastels, White in spring. White and Pastels were summer favorites, Beige an Red for autumn, and Black, Red, Beige in Winter. As for suits, the preferred colors in spring were in the order of Pastels, Beige and Yellow. The preferred colors of upper garments in summer were in the order of White and pastels. for lower summer garments Pastels, White and Blue were favorites. In autumn, Beige was shown to be highly preferred, and in winter, the order of preferred colors was Black, Gray and Beige. 3. On of those individual factors showing the greatest difference was sex. 4. Those factors having the greatest impact on the selection of clothing color were the season and their preference color. 5. The in vogue color of men in their 20s was at a higher level than hat of women. The groups that had an upper college level education showed a significant difference in their choices thant hose who were highschool graduates and technical college student and graduates. The consideration of inteterest in color of clothes, holding clothes during new purchasing, body shape and skin color was higher for women than men. In buying and wearing accessaries, women tend to take into consideration the harmony with the garment, and there was shown a significant difference between highschool graduates and the groups above the level of college education.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.123-139
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• 2003

This study examines the characteristics of 45 sects of seven new aboriginal religious groups in Korea including Jeungsan sect, Tangun sect, Soowoon sect, Won Buddhism, Bongnam sect, Gahksedo sect, Shamanism sect through field study and various documents. The purpose of the study is to elucidate how their religious ideas are reflected in their ceremonial costumes and what characteritics and underlying meanings these costumes have, and I reached the following conclusions 1. The new religious groups in Korea modified or mixed the designs or names of existing outfits to convey their ideas or beliefs in their costumes. 2. The costumes of new religious groups turned out to have certain characteristics in common: they all reflected the times, Korean tradition, ancestor worship. 3. I looked at the symbolicity, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme to establish their structural characteristics, and it turned out that they an symbolized the creeds and ideas of each religion. The names of the costumes such as Way-Robe, Law-Robe, and Ceremony-Robe, for instance, had to do with Buddhism Taoism, and Confucianism. The most common type of costume consisted of traditional hanbok top, pant, robe, and some type of headpiece for men, and hanbok top and, skirt for women, and if women were to wear a robe, it usually meant the sect believed in sexual equality. There was also a tendency to simplify or minimize the dress code, which seems to indicate that the sect was trying to adapt itself to, the times. The most common type of the outer garment for men was a robe with narrow sleeves, straight lapel, and no slits, and a robe with wide sleeves, straight lapel, and slits for women. The color scheme of the costumes included blue, white, yellow, red, and black, reflecting the influence of the Yin-Yang and Five Elements idea and traditional preference for white of Koreans. 4. These religious costumes were worn at various ceremonies, ritual, and various anniversary services for the master and other dignitaries of the sect to render greater piety to those gatherings, to distinguish the sect from other religious groups, to clarify the meaning of the ceremony, and to heighten the devout feelings of the participants. Thus, the structure (the symbolicity, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme) and religious background of the costumes of the new aboriginal religious groups in Korea turned out to have inherited and mixed various element of traditional Korean outfit and those of existing religions to symbolize their religious ideas. Many religions in and fall, and each has its own dress codes, and I hope this study provides a framework and data for other researchers and leaders of new religious groups that will emerge in the future.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제47권3호
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• pp.55-65
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• 2009

스마트 의류란 생활전반에 편의를 도모하기 위하여 기술이 접목된 기능성이 있는 의복이다. 소비자의 인식과 필요성을 알기 위하여 브레인스토밍, 개인면접, 포커스그룹미팅, 그리고 컨텐츠 분석을 실시하였다. 10명의 인터뷰 면접자와 포거크그룹 패널은 뉴욕 이타카에 거주하는 56세에서 64세의 여성으로 구성되었다. 라이프스타일 및 연령에 따른 의생활 질문으로 자극을 한 후, 2개의 스마트 의류견본과 더불어 주제에 따른 토론과 분석을 하도록 하였다. 또한 보다 다양한 수준에서 비교를 위해 이타카 지역 밖에 거주하는 타켓 연령대에 근접하는 3명에 대한 개인 인터뷰도 진행되었다. 본 연구의 결과에서 노년 여성들의 스마트 의류에 대한 필요성은 확연하게 나타났다. 즉, 노화에 따른 시력저하 및 체온조절을 위한 디바이스가 요구되었으며, 의생활에서는 체형변화를 감안한 피트성이 높은 미적 디자인을 요구하였다. 그러나, 이러한 기능성 디바이스들은 반드시 신중하게 구성되고 수행되어져야 할 것으로 나타났다. 성공적인 디자인으로 개발만 된다면 스마트 의류는 노년 여성의 자율성 증진을 이상적으로 야기할 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.65-81
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• 2009

본 연구는 남 녀 중고등학생이 인터넷 쇼핑몰에서 의복 제품을 구매할 때의 의복쇼핑성향과 의복쇼핑성향에 따른 불만족 요인을 밝힘으로써 청소년들이 인터넷 쇼핑몰을 이용하여 의복을 구매했을 경우 만족도를 높이는데 필요한 기초 자료를 제공하는데 그 목적이 있다. 본 조사는 설문지 응답방식으로 이루어졌으며, 인터넷 의복제품 구매경험이 있는 서울 수도권 소재의 중학교 3교, 고등학교 3교에서 학생 273명을 대상으로 조사하여 이중 응답이 불완전하거나 성실하지 못한 설문지를 제외한 총 265부가 최종 분석 자료로 사용되었다. 연구 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 청소년의 의복쇼핑성향은 '연예인 동조/유행추구 쇼핑성향', '또래 동조적 쇼핑성향', '편의적 쇼핑성향', '할인쿠폰 쇼핑성향', '경제적 쇼핑성향'으로 추출하여 군집 분석하여 '편리추구 집단', '또래 동조적 집단', '개성/유행추구 집단', '소극적 집단', '절약형 집단'으로 분류하였다. 여학생이 남학생보다 의복 동조성이 높으며 경제적인 가격으로 의복을 구매하는 것으로 나타났다. 고등학생은 경제적인 가격 때문에 인터넷 쇼핑몰을 이용하는 것으로 나타났다. 또한 청소년들은 인터넷 쇼핑몰을 통해 신발류, 상의류, 하의류 등을 주로 구입하는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 청소년들이 인터넷 쇼핑몰에서 의복 제품 구매후 불만족 요인은 '화면상 제품과 실제 제품의 차이', '교환/환불', '품질', '가격', '디자인과 색깔', '배송', '사이즈' 순으로 나타났다 '절약형 집단'과 '개성/유행추구 집단', '편리추구 집단', 여학생과 고등학생의 불만족 정도가 더 높게 나타났다.

• 복식
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.13-31
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• 2006

This study will explore Rococo chinoiserie not only as a prominent style of the decorative arts in general, but also as an important factor that influenced $18^{th}$ century fashions in dress. Two premises support the conclusion of this study. One is that the chinoiserie is truly a hybrid, a totally new style resulting from the mixture of various traditional elements from the East and the West, with little regard for the authentic nature of the original styles. The other is that the geographical scope for defining the chinoiserie influence in the Rococo fashion can be expanded beyond its lexical meaning; the style eventually encompassed visual cues from various Eastern cultures including China, India and Turkey. Regardless of the specific origins, the oriental influences for Rococo fashion can be categorized into two types. The first type is a complete appropriation of structural elements of Eastern clothing, such as pagoda hats, pagoda sleeves, turbans decorated with plumes or fur-trimmed open robes and then combining them with Western dress. These exotic and fancy dress ensembles were worn as masquerades, theatrical costumes or portraits. One extraordinary example is the banyan, a man's dressing gown, which also had a place in everyday life, not just as special costume. Although the banyan became more tailored as time passed, the traditional shape of this Eastern garment was accepted unaltered in the beginning of the $18^{th}$ century. The second type of influence shows in the use of eastern textiles, especially silks, which were made into women's dress. It did not matter to the fashionable lady if her dress was made of the silk produced in China or a European copy of the Chinese original, as long as it satisfied her taste. It is difficult to detect the signs of exotic style from a glance in this type of chinoiserie dresses since it was more ambiguous and conservative adaptation of the oriental influence in Rococo dress styles than the first type. In this study, various oriental influences appearing in $18^{th}$ century Rococo fashions can be defined as part of the chinoiserie style based upon the suggested premises. No matter what the origin of these oriental fashions was, this hybrid of the East and West made one of great impacts on the most frivolous and splendid period of western fashion history.