• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.177-186
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• 2003

This study is based on the observation of clothes excavated from of YeoHung Min( 1586∼1656)'s grave, which enable to understand of woman's funeral clothes among upper class in mid 17C. Lady Min buried with her husband Jung (Clan of Dong Rae)'s grave where located in KwanAk gu, Seoul was move out another place in 1989. During excavation of the grave, 31 pieces form 5 different type of clothes and total 18 pieces form 8 different from Lady Min (Clan of YeoHung). Remarkable finding from the excavated clothes is the Nuwooli(veil) which is known to be discovered first time in Korea, and a piece of tooth, which is related with funeral custom of those day, and cotton seeds are found from chima(skirt) and Jogori(jacket). Jangot(coat) has been used for the use of over garment assuming the changes of Jogori form during mid of Josun dynasty. It is also remarkable that padded and quilted clothing is still being commonly used until mid-l7C.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.275-285
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• 2006

With these excavated clothes discussed above, the clothing style before and after the Chosun-Japan War from 1592 to 1597 can be summarized as follows. 1) Shroud was a clothes newly made for funeral or usually worn by the deceased. Shroud was mostly a unlined clothes whose adjustment was made in such way its left part was on top of its right one. Yeomeui, a clothes used to wrap up the body of the deceased or fill between the body and the coffin, was usually lined or quilted. Suryeeui was a suit sent by close relatives of the deceased or granted by the court. Mostly padded with cotton or quilted, suryeeui was used only for yeomeui. 2) The term of ching was used to count units of po and suits of trousers and jeogori during dressing the deceased for burial. If trousers and jeogori were not joined into a suit, they were not counted as ching. 3) Aekjueumpo, bangryeongsangeui, three-forked trousers and haengjeon for women were all clothes worn around the war. All these clothes were not worn after the war. 4) Several types of po which were discovered in Daejeon included danryeong, simeui, nansam, jikryeong, cheolik, aekjuempo, changeui and jungchimak for men and jangeui for women. Often, jikryeong, cheolrik, aekjueumpo and bangryeongsangeui were used before the war and changeui and jungchimak since then. 5) The git of jeogori had the style of mokpan git before the war, which was changed into that of dangko git through making the rectangular ege of mokpan git rounded in the 17th century. And jeogori became entirely small sized and the baerae line of sleeve became oblique. 6) In funeral rites of Daejon, simeui and nansam both of which were symbols of Confucian scholars, instead of official uniforms, were used as funeral garments. This suggests that funeral rites of Daejeon considerably reflected academic traditions of the Giho school meaning groups of scholars representing the region.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.237-260
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• 2000

According to the study of Jik-Ryoung(直領) consulting chronicles of the Chosun Era, Jik-Ryoung had been worn for various uses as official outfit, ordinary attire or clothes for the celebration of their coming of age, wedding ceremonies, funeral rites, and religious ceremonies, etc. from the beginning to the end of the Chosun Era. The conclusions are shown briefly as follows. 1. There are several terms of Po(袍) related to Jik-Ryoung in the chronicles under the name of Jik-Ryoung Ui(直領衣), Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung(衣撒直領), and Jik-shin(直身). Jik-Ryoung Ui is the other name of Jik-Ryoung that they called it when it was used for funeral rites and religious ceremonies. The chinese Ye-Sal(曳撒) was called the Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung in Korea, but this is different with Jik-Ryoung regarding its divided up and bottom style. Jik-Shin is almost same as Jik-Ryoung. 2. During the latter period of the Chosun Era, we can find diferent frequency in use of the Jik-Ryoung. Jik-Ryoung was shown constantly in the cases of that ding, Chinese Prince and lower-level constantly in the cases of that king, Crown Prince and lower-level officials wore it for funeral rites and lower-level officials, artisans, merchants, humbles and slaves wore it for official outfit. Uses of the Jik-Ryoung increased for military officers'outfits, in contrast to decreasing of uses for ordinary attires of king, Crown Prince, and the commons, and official outfits of civil officials. 3. These different aspects mean the change of estate and role. For the basic four ceremonial occasions the ceremonies of coming of age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor memorial-, it appeared constantly. Therefore the social role had been maintained also by then. As an official garb, the role for official uniform of petty official maintained by the end of the Dynasty. But from the latter 1600's to the former 1700's, the roles for official garbs of civil officials and military officers decreased and increased respectively. Before the Hideyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, ordinary social clothes had orders by people's social status who wore them ; those were Dan Ryoung(團領), Hong Jik Ryoung(紅直領), Jik Ryoung(直領), Cho'l Rick(철릭) in the order named. After the war, various Po(袍), Shim Ui(深衣), Jung Chi Mak(中致莫), Chang Ui(　衣), Jang Ui(長衣), Ju Ui(周衣) and so on had been worn until the King Young Jo(英祖)·Jung Jo(正祖) period. In result, the social role of Jik-Ryoung was reduced as the uses decreased more and more. For a mourning dress, it had a same aspect as the case of ordinary social wear. 4. Considering the color, they used blue for the clothes for doing-up-the-hair ceremony, white for mourning clothes, and white, black for ancestor memorial ceremony clothes. On the official outfits of officials, dark blue and black were used mostly. And lower-level officials'clothes had white, red, and green on them. They used red and green for the plain dresses. 5. Examining the materials, clothes for the celebration of one's coming of age were made of high quality silks, Kwang Hwa Dan(廣禾緞). Also, they made clothes for funeral rites of rough and thick linen, and made clothes for religious ceremonies of linen and hemp. The official outfits were made of practical materials like cotton, hemp and ramie. Cotton, pongee and satin were used to make ordinary attire.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.441-460
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• 2002

Funeral culture, which came to being along with the death of human beings, has developed through many changes in the background, culture, religion and custome of the times, having variant cultures depending on each nation or era. This study is designed to historically and systematically classify funeral rituals and costumes which have constantly changed in a special funeral culture from ancient times to modern times so as to investigate the features of each age. The researcher worked on Western funeral cultures, focusing on Egypt and Rome of ancient times, Creek times, the Middle Ages, recent and modern times ages, referring to literature, precedent studies, domestic and international technical books, pictures and drawings in relation to death and funeral services. Western funeral rituals were designed for offering condolence to the dead, but also used to show off the status of the mourners and the position of the dead persons. The mourning dress were utilized to indicate mourning in accordance with the colors, materials and the ways of wearing them, serving as a vehicle for showing off one's own status.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.3
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• pp.75-85
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• 2001

The system of washing and shrouding a dead body is a series of procedures for encoffining in funeral rites, which are taken after death indentification by using CHOKWANG and praying for the resurrection of a dead body by calling a soul departed from the body. The washing and shrouding a dead body (hereinafter reffered to as "YEOMSEUP") is the broad concept which contains the procedures of washing, clothing and shrouding the body. The clothing includes washing, putting rices into the mouth. and then dressing while the shrouding includes first wrapping, second-wrapping and encoffining. The clothes for YEOMSEUP (all clothes and articles for funeral rites are designated) will be put in the coffin along with a dead body according to the YEOMSEUP procedures. Dasan, a SILHAK scholar in the late Yi Dynasty, pointed out some problems of the funeral rites observed in those days. At the same time, he found that the problems had arisen from the misinterpretation of the original descriptions in Chinese characters. and had tried to correct them. The books written by Dasan basically emphasized his ideology reshaping the whole procedures by trimming and removing meaningless formalities which are too much luxurious and wasteful and making them as a part of the original principles of the funeral rites. His Intents are clearly shown in his wrings on practical ettiquttes, such as SANGRYESAJON and SANGUIJEOLYO. In its attempt, this study aims at reformulating the DASAN\\`s SANGRYESAJON in terms of YEOMSEUP methods. A lot of virtues of the Dasan, like WOOSU, SIMUI, DAEDAE, MO, SORYUMHYO and DAERYUMHYO could also be found accordingly. The merits and characteristic in funeral rites are an obedience in filial duty, the pursuit of frugality. and the efficiency of practical functions. It could be said that the resurvey of DASAN′s theory on YEOMSEUP procedures is a meaningful work today when the original meaning of funeral rites fades out. Furthermore, discussions of refined burial service and encouraging cremation designed to improve land use, which are widely spread among people, could weaken the basic philosophy of YEOMSEUP and more likely propagate the atmosphere of despising the dignity of human beings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-7
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• 1982

Baik-Eui is the white clothes and Korean typical way of wearing, Baik-Eui was used by the over 80$\~$90 percents of people, which proves that Baik-Eui was the very clothes of common people. Moreover, even King himself in Koryo Dynasty is said to have worn white clothes when he was out of official hours. And wearing Baik-Eui was regarded as polite manners among the noble men in Yi Dynasty in spite of strict prohibitions of wearing it. That fact proves that it was loved by Korean people in general. Baik-Eui can be found its origin from many peoples of North East Asia in ancient time. Some say that wearing Baik-Eui is considered as a kind of worship of the sun, or purity of Korean people. But from the economical point of view, Baik-Eui was primitive in it's color. It means that their clothes were made from original clothes, not dyed. This study on the social reasons affecting to Baik-Eui, they are summarized as follows; 1. This Baik-Eui had been originated from the ancient economical and rigid circumstances of society. Everlasting poverty and diprivation of joy in life of Korean naturally made them have inclination of wearing it 2. Also common people were restricted in their choice of dress color by government. Even rich could not wear a colored clothes except the dyes permitted by them. 3. Socially, People wore white clothes through various kinds of ceremony, among which funeral was the most important. As we had the large family system, and usually the funeral at that time was longer in its period than now. Thus, Korean got accustomed to wear whit clothes more and more.

• The Journal of Korean Philosophical History
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• no.59
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• pp.215-240
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• 2018

In this paper, the contents about funeral rites in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial"(儀禮) were compared to those in the books of Hundred Schools of Thought. The most direct and systematic document related to funeral rites is "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial". Some of its contents had been reflected in the books of Hundred Schools of Thought, such as "Zuo Zhuan", "Mozi" and "Xunzi", while others didn't agree with one another. It happened because some contents had been already reflected in the books of Hundred Schools of Thought in the process of establishing scriptures about manners including the ancient "Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial", and because, on the contrary, the contents of the books of Hundred Schools of Thought had become included in the scriptures about manners by following Confucianism. First, the basic contents of Chapter 'Mourning Clothes' in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial" were generally reflected in the books of Hundred Schools of Thought, and there are many contents in common. Most prominently, three-year-mourning for parents and a king had been enhanced in Confucianism commonly. Although Mohism opposed Confucian luxurious and long funerals (厚葬久喪), the mourning clothing system in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial" can be said to have been people's universal understanding until the Spring and Autumn period at least. In addition, it has been verified that there were differences in the mourning clothes depending on the one who wore them was an adult or not both in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial" and the books of Hundred Schools of Thought. On the other hand, many arguments in the contents about funeral rites reflected in the books of Hundred Schools of Thought were different from the rules in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial". In particular, the mourning clothes for parents reflected in the books of Hundred Schools of Thought showed that there were differences depending on social positions, which was dissimilar to the regulations in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial". Also, different from the mourning clothes system for parents and a king, the system for a wife and a concubine was dissimilar to the rules in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial" in many ways. Since the regulations of Chapter of 'Mourning Clothes' in the present version of "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial" suggest different mourning clothes and periods depending on who wears the mourning clothes and what social position the deceased had, it seems difficult to implement them strictly historically as well as at those times. Especially, while the funeral rituals for a child was relatively clear based on the parent-child relationship of "affection" and those for a king and parents were plainly regulated and emphasized, the rules of those for a vassal and a wife were absent or ambiguous in many cases. Therefore, the term of "the Theee Bonds"(三綱) appeared first in Dong Zhongshu(董仲舒)'s "Luxuriant Dew of the Spring and Autumn Annals"(春秋繁露) that reflected the ideology of political ethics of Han Dynasty(漢代), but regarding its contents, it can be said to have been already reflected in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial".

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.887-898
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• 2000

Mourning & funeral ritual means a various kinds of ritual procedures which begins at the time of death, buried and created a graveyard, a manner of wearing funeral garment being mourning the death, finally go back to everyday life. Our mourning & funeral custom was burial at first time. After going through the era of the Three kingdoms, The unified Shilla and Korea dynasty, cremation method has been prevailed. However, based on Chu-tzu celebration in Chosun dynasty, the burial custom has been widely spread again. Nowadays, due to effective land utilization issue, excessive cost for burial and the change of thinking for cremation, the cremation is recognized as remedy of righteous funeral system. At this point, a shroud following existing burial custom burdens considerably for quality, price, size and design of it. Accordingly, it needs anew style of shroud corresponding to cremation system. As an alternative, the shroud is required simplification and standardization ; Firstly, in size, a shroud should be larger than plain clothes and differentiated in small, medium and large. Secondly, the material of a shroud would be white cotton, which can keep from pollution during burning time. Thirdly, it unifies the item. In case of man, 바지(把特, those are trousers), 저고리(赤古里, Korean-style jacket) and Durumagi(周衣, Korean topcoat). In case of woman, 치마(赤　, those are skirt), 저고리(赤古里, Koran-style jacket) and Durumagi(周衣, Korean topcoat).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.25-39
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to look into dressing practices at the Woinarodo region in terms of ordinary and ritual clothes. Men wore Bqji(trousers) and Jeokori(jackets) as their plain clothes and sometimes Jangsam mid Durumaki(topcoat). During the period of Japanese colony, men wore Western-style clothes. For women it was basic to wear Chima(skirts) and Jeokori. And they preferred Momppe rather when in Japanese rule. In arrangements for their head, men put on gut, and had their hair cut during Japanese nile. Women laid a bundle of their braided hairs on the head or braided their hair, while married women did their hair up in a chignon during the ruling period People of the region put on straw and leather shoes, and then rubber ones since the late 1930s. Hand weaving was a major means of living for women at the region. Ramie, hemp and cotton were mainly weaved by hand. Starching was applied mainly to ramie and cotton. Glues for starching were made of raw rices, cooked rices, wheat flour or gloiopeltis tenax. For ritual clothes, especially in wedding, bridegrooms arranged themselves with Samokwandae and then Put on Baji, Jeokori, Durumaki and Danryung. But they Put on Western-style dresses as the liners of Danryung, and wear Nambawi Rather than the Samo after korean independence from Japanese rule. Bridges wore Chima, Jeokori and Wonsam and Chokdoori and covered their face with Hansam Wonsam did not be worn any longer after Korean independence from the rule. Shrouds for funeral ceremony were manufactured with silks, cotton and hemp, when the chief mourner wore hempen hoods and funeral robes, while women, Chima, made of hemp. and any type of Jeokori.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.49-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to analyze the signification system between color and clothes systematically in black and white clothes. For this purpose, after examining the images of black and white clothes, we selected 55 clothes that represented as black and white and analyzed their meanings and the sources using semiotic framework, based on the work of Saussure and Barthes. The results as follows: First, the meaning in black and white clothes was generated from original color image. White clothes of religious person like Virgin Mary, Angel expressed pure and sacred color image. And black clothes like funeral dress expressed grief and death. Next, the meaning of black and white clothes was regenerated into modern color image by new environment. After industrial revolution, black was considered as a traditional men's fashion color. With diverse leisure activities, white sports wear appeared as active and clean image. Finally the source of the meaning of the clothes was the designer or the wearer. A little black dress by Chanel who was interested in simplicity and function represents an ideal of simple and sexy object. The situation is complicated by the fact that these three kinds of explanation may be found singly or mixed together.