• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.57-74
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• 2015

The history of foot-binding was once regarded as a unique practice accentuating the beauty of a woman and the culture of the costume, to be found nowhere except in China. This thesis makes it an aim to understand the culture of costume in China by analyzing the beauty of foot-binding, and its meanings associated with the historical background of the costume. The method of investigation was by both previous literature on the topic and case analysis. The shoes were analyzed by colors, patterns and decorations; selecting 70 pieces easily accessible in the Tianjin Huaxia Shoes Culture Museum. In terms of form, the general type was of the most frequent, followed by one with an elevated toe, mixed type, and one of the downward toe, sequentially. The color of foot-binding shoes were mostly vivid chromatic colors, while the achromatic ones like black and grey constituting significant portions. In view of the patterns, plants patterns were the most frequent, followed by the mixed patterns of mostly flowers with butterflies, bats, and birds desiring the prosperity of descendants. In view of the ornaments, embroidery was the most frequent, while the mixed shoes included tassels, sequins, applique, and shoes without ornaments were of distributions. The forms, colors, patterns and ornaments clearly associated with the wishes of artistic beauty, sexuality, and rise in women's social status may be in the hope of leading others to understand the costume culture embedded in the Chinese by providing important clues about them.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.2899-2905
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• 2015

본 논문은 지반 조건에 따른 족저압의 압력분포에 대한 연구이다. 실내화, 실외화, 걷기화, 운동화의 네 가지 카테고리의 신발이 본 연구에 사용되었으며, 260mm(유럽 코드 EU40)를 착용하는 45명의 20대 남성을 대상으로 콘크리트, 모래 지반에서의 실험을 실시하였다. 보행 시 응력과 압력의 측정은 Techstorm사의 Insole System을 사용하여 측정하였으며 발의 발가락, 전족, 중족, 후족 네 가지 영역에서 족저압을 측정하였다. 연구 결과 신발과 지반 조건에 따라 다른 응력 및 압력의 분포를 나타냈으며 본 연구 결과는 모래 지반에서 착용 가능한 신발의 개발에 유용하게 사용될 것으로 기대된다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.237-256
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• 1997

Women's clothes which represent feminity was one of the female oppression polices in the society of phallocentric sexual order. Many women were eager to good-looking as a comouflage for inferiority of their own sex which was the theory of fashion of Freud. He insist that it's the driving force for women fashion. Thight-lacing corset high heel and foot-binding which was made for men's pleasure limited women's social activity and unfortunately recycled. Such clothes or shoes makes women belong to men's power but its also one of the self controls for women. The materialization and sex objects of women was due to fashion which encouraged by men. Many facts of fetish gradually emerged I fashion and fetishism itself is no more than sexual perversion or low class sex culture. This paper is focused on relationship between fetishism and fashion which approaching based the feminism. We investigated how human ambivalence which persuit both modesty and fetishism is manifested in clothes. We also compared modern fetish fashion with corset and shoes which are sterotypes of classic fetishism

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.225-242
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• 1997

This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.