• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.137-146
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• 2009

This study analyzed hierarchy of image for visual evaluation of flare skirt. This study analyzed expression words about flare skirt with frequency data of image expression words with different length and volume of flare. Stimuli for the study were set to be 4 different volume of flare ($90^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$, $270^{\circ}$, $360^{\circ}$) and 3 different length of skirt(48cm, 58cm, 68cm). Stimuli were made by using I-Designer which is Virtual Sewing System. From simulation of flare skirt, the subjects were asked to write down suggested adjective freely and selected 210 adjectives. With this, we chose total 38 adjectives considering frequencies in the pre-study. And we analyzed the combination process of expression words according to construction factor of flare skirt and hierarchy of image from dendrogram which was resulted by hierarchical cluster analysis. 'Feminine' got high score in all 12 flare skirt. When the skirt was short, it was vivid, and as the skirt got longer, ordinary and pure image showed. Also, as the volume of flare got larger, the average of visual effect was higher than visual image. Visual hierarchy construction according to construction factors of flare skirt could be divided into visual image and visual effect, and visual image was shown to be form 'A type - large volume of flare and short skirt length', 'H type-small volume of flare and short skirt length' and 'X type - large volume of flare and long skirt length'.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.127-137
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual image by variations in the volume of flare and the length of flare skirt. The stimuli are 12 samples: 4 variations of volume of flare and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data has been obtained from 181 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe's Test and the MCA method. The results of the study are as follows: The visual image by the volume of flare and the length of flare skirt are composed of 4 factors : matureness, attractiveness, stiffness and softness, moderateness. In these factors, matureness is estimated by the most important factor. When the volume of flare is $180^{\circ}$, the visual images are shown to be better. As the skirt gets shorter, it has more vivid and attractive image. And as the skirt gets longer, it looks older and gentle but not too plain or ordinary. The volume of flare and skirt length interact with each other in matureness and attractiveness factors. But the volume of flare affects more in stiffness and softness and moderateness factors than skirt length.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.91-101
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop semantic differential scales which are necessary to evaluate visual image and effect of flare skirt. As a result of the first survey of 362 female college students, the most effective factors for shape of flare skirt are silhouette, volume of flare, and skirt length. Based on this result, we made flare skirt simulation for visual evaluation with using I-Designer program. 4 kinds of volume of flare($90^{\circ},\;180^{\circ},\;270^{\circ},\;360^{\circ}$) and 3 kinds of skirt length(48cm, 58cm, 68cm) are combined as variables for flare skirt of visual evaluation. For the second survey of 362 female college students, we asked to write suggested adjectives freely. As a result, we could draw out 210 adjectives. 'Feminine' was most frequently used word for flare skirt, and then, 'vivid', 'rhythmic', 'cute', 'soft', 'fat', and 'comfortable' in this order. With considering frequently used words in the preceding study, we selected 41 adjectives. Antonyms were selected from the resulted frequency of this study and preceding study, and the rest of words were found from dictionary. From these process, we developed semantic differential scales for visual image and effect of flare skirt.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.15-32
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to detect the effect of the lower body type on the shape of flare skirts. The subjects for the wearing test were 50 female students, who were controlled in their hip and waist shapes. The skirts used for wearing test were six types(three flar angles $\times$ two fabric types). The effect of lower body type on the shape of flare skirts was determind by the hemline trace method and the silhouette photography. The data were then analyzed by the repeated measures of analysis of variance and the SNK multiple range test. The results obtained from this study were as follows : 1) When a flare skirt made with larger flare angle and better drapable fabric was worn, the numeric of the nodes increased as the drop value(hip - waist) increased. When a flare skirt made with smaller flare angle was worn, the width of horizontal sectio of hemline increased as the drop value increased. The hemline uneveness decreased on the sides and back as the drop value increased. When a flare skirt made with worse drapable fabric was worn, the sides angle of the flarskirt increased as the drop value increased. 2) When a flare skirt made with larger flare angle was worn, the numeric of nodes increased as the ratio of dropped hip increased. The wave-height increased and the back variation ratio of wave-height was higher than the front variation ratio of wave-height as the ratio of dropped hip increased. The hemiline uneveness decreased on the back as the ratio of dropped hip increased. When a flare skirt made with larger flare angle was worn, the sides angle of the flare skirt increased as the ratio of dropped hip increased.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권4호
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• pp.49-54
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• 1997

Methods of the flare skirt pattern making are presented variously among foreign and domestic test books. Three of them are : First the method is using the basic skirt pattern, secondly the method is quartering rectangle of skirt length $\times\frac{W}4$, finally the method is substituting waist size for formula. But, these books don't include the calculating method of the hem circumference. This calculating method express the shape of flare skirt and the using length of trimming -race and frill-. This study aims at proposing the calculating formula of the hem circumference and the standardization of pattern making technical skill. The result were as follows. 1. The calculating formula of hem circumference had regular ratio in $180^{\circ}$, $270^{\circ}$ and $360^{\circ}C$ flare. That was (HEM) = $(\frac{(5\;{\times}\;(W\;+\;1)}{4\;{\times}\;A}+(SK.L))\;{\times}\;A\;{\times}\;0.785$. A was 4 in $180^{\circ}$, 6 in $270^{\circ}$, 8 in $360^{\circ}$. 2. The error of hem circumference from 46 to 86 centimeter of waist size was between 0.11875 and -0.63125 centimeter in $180^{\circ}$, $270^{\circ}$ and $360^{\circ}$ flare skirt. This formula was less in the error.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.38-47
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of physical properties and grain line of fabrics on the drape properties of the flare skirt. Horizontal section overlap map was obtained by three dimensional Moire Topography, It was concluded drapability of the skirt obtained by the map can be used to determine the ease of the skirt. Grain line such as bias and lengthwise direction showed the difference of quality of the drape at the hem line; skirt made by bias direction showed evenly distributed flare and effective for the aesthetic point view. No difference was observed between cotton and polyester fabrics probably due to the similar characteristics of the fabrics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.472-483
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at $180^{\circ}$, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.139-148
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• 1998

This study was performed to develop the flare skirt pattern in CAD system by each of the textile's test. 1 made 28 flare skirts(360$^{\circ}$, length of 60 cm, straight gram at front ST side seam, 28 kind of textiles) and found the changes of skirt length. And I measured thickness, weight, density, drapability and bending in these textiles. Therefore, It analyzed these data and found it regression.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.286-298
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to find the proper width of fabric which can bring high efficiency on productivity. We focus on the marking method by comparing and analyzing the marking efficiency of flare skirt. This study employs 4 criteria to mark the flare skirt, which are angle, location, width, and direction, respectively. There can be 3 different angles$(180^{\circ},\;270^{\circ},\;360^{\circ})$, and 2 different locations(the center line and the middle of the pattern) according to fixing of the warp line of the fabric. Also, width can be classified into 2 groups(110cm, 150cm), and marking direction can be grouped into 2(one direction marker and one direction per each size marker). These 4 criteria make $24(3{\times}2{\times}2{\times}2)$ cases for this study. Main findings are follows. Fist, the skirt with the 150cm width has higher efficiency rate than that of 110cm. Second, fixing the warp line at the center line has higher efficiency rate than that in the middle. Finally, per size marker has much higher efficiency than the just direction marker. In sum, we find that 150cm width with the center warp line and per size marker brings the highest efficiency rate.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.399-409
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to compare how the number of panels, the amount of flare and the flare starting point affect the silhouette of the gored skirt. This study consisted of (1) creation of 3D body representations (2) comparison of silhouette between 3D virtual gored skirt and actual gored skirt by pilot experiment (3) pattern drafting of twenty-seven different gored skirts for 3D body representations (4) a computer simulation of twenty-seven different gored skirts for visualization and assessment (5) visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts (6) comparison of ham shapes and measurements for the node and size analysis. A visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts showed clear differences by the amount of flare and the flare starting point ; however, there was notably less difference in the width of ham among six-piece, eight-piece and ten-piece panels. This demonstrated that there was less influence on the number of panels than the amount of flare width of ham and extent of ham for the 3D virtual gored skirt.