• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.913-927
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• 2017

This study is based on the results of the $7^{th}$ Korea Human Size Survey (Size Korea). The standard body shapes of Korean women between 25 and 34 years old were analyzed and used to develop a prototype princess line for wedding dresses. or this purpose I conducted a literature review and a survey of the actual situation of domestic ligaments. In order to select suitable ligaments for the standard body type of 25~34 year-old Korean women, I collected the most representative ligaments from around the world: Stock man from France, Superior from the USA, KIIYA from Japan, and Pig and Nonno from Korea. They were then compared and analyzed. In the form of a formal wedding dress, a prototype princess line was developed by a draping technique in order to finely implement the human body fitting. To develop the prototype of the princess line, I made test garments with muslin. 25 to 34 years old Korean female standard body type Three human subjects close to the average measurement value were selected as subjects. An exterior appearance evaluation questionnaire was created with 28 questions focusing on the main parts of the prototype princess line. The clothes were evaluated three times. In this study, aesthetic and functional elements were considered for the development of princess line prototypes for wedding dresses. In addition, the amount of spare area was given differently. This study is significant in the achievement of a dress line closest that closely matches the human body line of the standard Korean female body type.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.889-901
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to look into the physical features for each residential area by the age, with the female subjects residing in Beijing and Shanghai. This would provide the specific information regarding the body types of Chinese adult women, and additionally it would assist the effective advancement into the Chinese local markets by serving as the basic data for the size development and fitting improvement of clothing products for Chinese women. The body measurements were made with 525 adult female subjects of 20 to 49 years of age, residing in Beijing and Shanghai, China. The number of measurements items was 79. The results are as follows: As they grew older, the women residing in Beijing and Shanghai all showed increases in the items of width, thickness, girth, and length, which are highly correlated with the physical obesity, while they did not show any differences by the age range in the item of height. Differences were also found in the tendency of the type distribution by the age range of Chinese adult women in each residential area. As they grew older, the women residing on Beijing showed increases in the distribution of Body type 2 and Body type 4, which clearly indicated the features of obesity. On the other hand, the women residing in Shanghai showed the almost similar distribution in their 20's and 30's, while those in their 40's showed a high frequency in Body type 2 than in Body type 4.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.126-143
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and design elements of the Qing dynasty costume style, and accordingly, develop a new fashion design work incorporating modern aesthetics by using the attribute listing technique. A creative idea that drew out various ideas by considering the properties and characteristics of the object in detail through applying the attribute listing technique, and a modern fashion design in the style of Qing dynasty were developed. In the design development process, first, the theme was set as 'Developing a modern fashion design using design elements of Qing dynasty costume'. Second, design elements and components focusing on design details of Qing dynasty costumes were organized. Third, design ideas that replaced or modified design elements for each type of Qing dynasty costume were presented, and the design was developed by combining and modifying these ideas. Fourth, nine designs were selected through a design evaluation process by a group of experts to select a design for the Qing dynasty costume style. Fifth, seven final designs were selected through revisions to compose a collection with unity and balance. Sixth, colour and material were decided for the selected design, and the work was completed through pattern making, sewing, and fitting process. These seven works were designed with motifs of the Qing dynasty's slit, liling, yuanling, hujian, matixiu, manxiu, shuangmanxiu, zhaixiu, pipajin, yourengquejin, yikouzhong, lingyi, yunjian, magua, mamianqun, xingshang, taoku, chaofu, xingfugua, and pao.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.655-663
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• 2012

Due to increased interest in character costumes, the field of animation character costume design is gradually developing into a specialized domain. The costume-making process for animation characters presents many differences from the costume-making process for regular apparel. However, there remains insufficient research on the actual process of making the character costumes used in stop motion videos both in Korea and abroad. The purpose of this study is to establish a costume design process for animation characters. Furthermore, this study presents a case study on the costume planning and making process for 3D stop motion animation characters. The character costume-making process was segmentalized into the following stages: character analysis stage, character modeling stage, and character costume making stage. In the character analysis stage, the investigator analyzed the character's movements, designed the character images, and analyzed the movements and motions of the animation characters. After completing character modeling, this study proposed a method for making the character costume. The style of the character costume was designed, and the structural design reflected the position and size of joints as well as the angle of movements. The patterns of the character costume were produced through dimensional tailoring after measuring the body size of the character. Afterward, the costume was completed after passing through the fitting and revision stages. The clothing material was selected to fit the colors and feelings shown in the illustration. To complete the costume after comparing it with the initial illustration, it was revised based on the assessment of its volume and overall atmosphere.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.145-155
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• 2002

In order to investigate how upper limb motion gives influence on clothing, this study measured tests by following standards: Front Vertical motion, Side-Vertical motion, and Horizontal motion. For this study, the procedures in the order of alphabet are applied. A. Eeach of testee's pattern was copied by the motion with a method of tight fitting technique. B. Analyzing each of the size-change on measuring item. C. Studying the moving aspects at each datum points. The results shows that the biggest change can be found in the following items. 1) In vertical motion of F4 (the length to shoulder point from A-point) 2) In horizontal motion of F5 (the length to front-width point from A-point), the check-result gained by checking the notice between motions shows that the most noticeable items are F4 (the length to shoulder point from A-point), F5 (the length to front-width point from A-point), F6 (the length to armpit point from A-point), B7 (the length to side-waist point from B-point). In result of the study of datum point's movement by motion, the items which were measured with the longest on straight-distance in vertical motion are the front and rear-shoulder, and the rear-shoulder, front-armpit in horizontal motion each. In the movement of each datum points by length, the check-result gained by checking the notice between motions shows that the most remarkable item is the front-shoulder.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.251-260
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• 2012

Nowadays, global wedding dress companies are interested in the Chinese wedding market because of expectations in consumption patterns of the post 80's generation. Therefore, wedding behavior, selection criteria for wedding dresses, and favored image by segmented groups targeting 20's to 30's Chinese women were studied to help the Korean wedding dress industry to establish their business in China. The survey was conducted in Shanghai city and three neighboring cities-Wuxi, Zhengziang, and Hangzhou-, and the primary data were analyzed using the SPSS program. As results, Chinese women thought that the wedding ceremony should be elegant and dignified, and they wanted to choose their favorite style rather than a recommended style. The criteria of selection were classified into four factors. Overall image and well fitting with their face and body were the most important factors in the selection of wedding dress. The most favored image was unique/novel image. Several favored images for their wedding dress were significantly different by occasion (ceremony day and photo shoot day) and education level. People of higher education level preferred more luxurious and classic image during the ceremony, and a classic and gorgeous image on the photo shoot day. A white dress and a colored dress for weddings were favored more than the Chinese traditional dress on both occasions. There was also a significant difference between general consumers and the wedding business employees in the quantity of wanted wedding dress.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.43-59
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to compare knitwear design preferences and purchase behaviors of university students by sex. The subjects were 493 university students in Daejeon and Gongju provinces. The research method was a survey and measurement instruments were 16 stimuli which were manipulated of knitwear shape and self-administrated questionnaire (knitwear design preference items, knitwear favorite image items, purchase behavior items and subject' demographic attributions). Data were analyzed by factor analysis, frequency analysis, t-test, Cronbach' ${\alpha}$ using SPSS program. The results of the study were as follows. First, as for pullover designs according to pullover shape factors, male preferred classic design with normal round neck, set-in sleeves and normal length, whereas female preferred various designs with normal round, normal V or deep V neck, set-in sleeves and normal or long length. Second, there was significant difference by sex in knitwear patterns and materials. Male preferred geometric patterns and 100% cotton, whereas female preferred natural patterns and blended cotton. Third, 4 factors were emerged on knitwear favorite images(casual image, modem classic image, active image and characteristic image). Especially, there was significant difference by sex in active image. Male preferred active image, whereas female did not. Fourth, as for knitwear purchases, male considered fitting as important purchase criteria, whereas female considered design or style. Male used department stores for purchasing, whereas female used Bosejeom for independent fashion. Male preferred high quality knitwear to female.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.58-71
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• 2007

This study conducted a survey to find out atopic dermatitis patients' required performance and preference in design factors to develop spring/summer(S/S) knitwears preferred by atopic patients. On the platform of achieved information from statistical analysis, S/S knitwear samples for atopic patients were designed and constructed with cotton/Seacell(R) blended yarn, And subjective wearing sensation were evaluated comparing the samples and the commercial products made with cotton/chitosan blended yarn, trying to help producing more comfortable S/S knitwears for atopic patients. SPSS 12.0 program was used for frequency analysis, Chi-square analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; For comfort of S/S knitwears, atopic patients most considered skin care property. Atopic patients preferred simple and basic knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. The preferred style was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease'. They also preferred 'closed front'; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib' structure. Male preferred simple and plain style with 'round collar' and 'tubular or rib trim", while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with 'set-in sleeve' with 'rib trim'. Under the circumstances with insufficient functional knitwears developed, this study tried to develop comfort S/S knitwears for atopic dermatitis patients and the developed knitwears showed as good as or better performance in wearing feeling, fitting, and appearance than the previously developed functional goods.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.671-685
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to develop a new size range and size interval for early adolescent girls. For this purpose, a total of 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured and data were collected from 42 anthropometric measurements and 41 photographic measurements per a person. SAS 8.1 was used in data analysis including means, standard deviations, and frequency analysis. The stature was divided at 5cm intervals as in KS into 9 sizes from the lowest 130cm to the highest 171cm. If waist circumference were divided at the same intervals, the sizes cannot reflect the body growth of adolescent girls at these ages. Thus this study set intervals between sizes irregularly based on the mean of waist circumference by the type of body shape. Based on the results, this study proposed: for Type A - 6 sizes (140A-58, 145A-54, 145A-62, 150A-58, 150A-62, 155A-62); for Type X- 9 sizes (150X-59, 155X-63, 155X-66, 160X-59, 160X-63, 160X-66, 165X-59, 165X-63, 165X-66): and for Type H - 7 sizes (145H-68, 150H-68, 150H-70, 155H-68, 155H-73, 160H-68, 160H-73). For the sizes selected for each type, reference measurements were decided - centering on items necessary for manufacturing clothes. Reference measurements suggested for lower garments 8 items including waist circumference, hip circumference, slacks length and crotch length. The suggested sizes are distributed in a wider range, so they are considered to be helpful for students to find clothes fitting their bodies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.12 s.138
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• pp.1596-1604
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• 2004

Quality Function Deployment(QFD) is a product development tool which ensures that the voice of the customer needs is heard and translated into products. To develop a sensible brassiere for middle-aged women QFD was adopted. In this study the applicability and usefulness of QFD was examined through the engineering design process for a sensible brassiere for middle-aged women. The customer needs for the wear comfort of brassiere was made by one-on-one survey of 100 women who aged 30-40. The customer competitive assessment was generated by wearing tests of 10 commercial brassieres. The subjective assessment was conducted in the enviornmental chamber that was controlled at $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C,\;65{\pm}3\%RH.$ As a results, we developed twenty-one customer needs and corresponding HOWs for the wear comfort of brassiere. The Customer Competitive Assessment was generated by wearing tests of commercial brassiere. The subjective measurement scale and dimension for the evaluation of sensible brassiere were extracted from factor analysis. Four factors were fitting, aesthetic property, pressure sensation, displacement of brassiere due to movement. The most critical design parameter was wire-related property and second one was stretchability of main material of brassiere. Also, wearing comfort of brassiere was affected by the interaction of initial stretchability of wing and support of strap. Engineering design process, QFD was applicable to the development of technical and aesthetic brassieres.