• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.766-775
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• 2014

This study is aimed to research the actual wearing condition of ballet dancewear of girls aged between 2 and 6 years on its design, size and fit. Survey data were collected from 171 mothers who have a girl learning ballet dance. The questionnaire was composed with ballet education, ballet dancewear purchasing, preference on design, size selection, and fitting. The collected data were analyzed with frequencies statistics, ${\chi}^2$-test, ANOVA using the SPSS WIN 20.0. The results are as follows; High rate of respondents said that the purpose of ballet education was for good body balance, leisure activity, and height growth. The main method of purchase was online shopping. The design, price, size and fit were identified as important ballet dancewear attributes for girls. The most preferred style of ballet dancewear were 'short sleeve skirted leotard' and 'camisole skirted leotard' which look like dress. The respondents reported slight satisfaction with size and fit, price, convenience in action, sewing and durability. The most preferred sizing system was code by height but any ballet dancewear makers don't use code by height. Therefore it is difficult for consumers to select size. Retailers and manufacturers could potentially use the results of this study to improve the sizing system and fit for children's ballet dancewear.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.85-98
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• 2013

Fabric industry has been developing enough to introduce diverse stretch materials to apparel market, so that tightly fitting leggings designs are taking over not only sports wear but also women's clothing. This study is aimed at developing prototype designs for leggings pants using stretch material that are appropriate for the lower part of body being functional, comfortable, and beautiful. As well, the study is intended to be of a reference in manufacturing such products. Some of the most popular leggings on the market in their kinds and materials were primarily selected to be tested in two ways: wear test and appearance test. Again, the test pants went through the same kinds of two tests, which turned out two designs. Finally, the test pants were treated to yield the most desirable prototype design. In conducting all these tests, some major defects causing discomfort and shortcomings of the leggings pants on the market were exposed and through the wear tests, the drawbacks were seen to be complemented in a big way. Thus, it is hopefully expected that this study will serve as a good reference for developing stretch pants.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.934-945
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the content and presentation style of consumer information of Korean young casual apparel brand. To collect the data for this study, the representative 25 casual brand web sites were selected, based on major search engines. In addition, to investigate exact product information, four product categories, knit shirts and casual pants for men and women, were selected and the number of products was limited as maximum 15 products per each category. A coding instrument was developed to capture the consumer information, based on the instrument by Park and Stoel(2002). The Pretest was conducted to gauge inter-coder reliability and the results showed that inter-coder reliability was highly acceptable. The results of this study were as follows. Most casual brand web sites for this study were presented well in brand and customer service information. Especially, many web sites provided various engaging information such as various events(best dresser contest, date with a star, special gift) and useful multimedia file(MP3 music file, screen saver, movie, calender). However, product information was very lack in most web sites. Especially, sizing and fitting information and textile and fabric hand information were rarely provided. Therefore, this result showed that the web sites should provide more specific product information and develop devices to get tactile sensory and experiential information for enhancement of future e-commerce of apparel products.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.71-84
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• 2009

For fit satisfaction evaluation, the subjects were asked to put on the jackets from the seven manufacturers in random order, view how the jackets fit in a full-body mirror and answer questions regarding fitting in 22 specific areas, including the neck, shoulders, waist, hips and arms, as well as eight questions related to maneuverability. The surveys and evaluations were conducted between October 2007 and November 2008, and the compiled data were analyzed using the SPSS 14.0 statistics program. The One-way analysis of variance was performed to comparatively analyze the differences among the products from the seven manufacturers. Post-hoc tests were performed based on Duncan's test for the criteria that displayed significant differences. The results were summarized as follows. Fit evaluations were performed for the size 88 formal jackets from the seven manufacturers. All items, except the center front line, displayed significant differences at p<0.05 or higher among the manufacturers. The age group 20-39 felt that the main problems were in the shoulder, armscye, upper arm, waist, abdomen and hip areas. Modifying the shoulder area, armscye depth and hip areas severely compromises the jacket's balance, and attention to these areas must be given developed pattern design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.407-417
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to develop designs and patterns of a functional brassiere. For this purpose, women who have protruding and drooping breasts with 75B for their brassiere size were sampled. The fitting test for the fitness and function of test brassiere and control brassiere were carried out twice and compared the results from the both in terms of front, rear and side looks. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The results from measuring the level of sag and spread, and volume and protrusion of breasts shows that there are some distinctive differences in the measurements before and after wearing the test brassiere and the test brassiere is proved to be very effective in correcting breasts' shapes. 2. Front look: Since the two front cutting lines of the test brassiere served to have the curved main part pressing against the breasts, it could support breasts to more than satisfactory level. In addition, upperline panel and side panels of the test brassiere were found to have the upperline of the upper cup pressed against the breasts and at the same time it pressed and gathered the flab around upper part of the breasts and armpits that helped to rearrange the shape of the breasts. It is also proved that the two-pieced test brassier was found to be more functional in supporting the lower cup of the breasts. 3. Rear look: The test brassier was made up of two wide U-shaped wings with 2.5cm tape on its lower sides. Each wing has 4 lines and 3 hems (5.5cm). For this reason, the test brassiere was tighter and better fitted on its back. 4. Side look and entire look: The wings of the test brassiere might look wider than that of the control brassier which has conventional straight-shaped wings, but it was analyzed that the test brassiere held the upper and lower sides of the wings more effectively to be more pressed against the breast. Therefore, the test brassiere scored higher in terms of adjusting to body movements, while the control brassiere looked better in overall terms. 5. The functional brassier fur protruding and drooping breasts developed from the experiments of this study is a full side stretch brassiere which covers the entire breasts satisfactorily. The pattern drafting methods are suggested in to .

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.95-110
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is to analyze how appropriately the sizing of domestically produced children's wear compares to children's sizes; it is based on an anthropometric survey conducted in 1998. By discovering and understanding discrepancies between the sizing system of children s wear and the real size of children, this study aims to suggest solutions that will lead to increased comfort and more suitable fitting in children's clothes. This research analyzes and compares 'the extent of growth between age groups' with 'the difference in sizing system in use by manufacturers'. The study focused on aged 4 to 12 children, who are usually divided in two groups; primary students and toddlers. In total, seven sizes were selected: bust, waist, and hip (which are girth sizes), and height, back neck to waist (top length), sleeve length, and waist to ankle (slacks length) as representing length. The results of this research are analyzed by basing on the actual increments between the sizes of children's wear in certain basic items rather than sizes themselves because each size quite differed according to companies, items and designs. Significantly, the increase in the sizing was not as great as the average biennial growth rate of children. The consequences are poorer fit and unsuitable representative value for each age group because the actual sizes of children increasingly differ from the sample size. Observing the increments in several sizes, we found that 81.8% of the companies used the certain and equal increases for grading sizes in sleeve length, waist, and bust. In addition, 72.7% of the companies adopted the same increments between sizes in height and hip girth, and 63.6% also chose equal increments in T-shirt length for making smaller or bigger sizes from the sample size. However, sleeve length and pant length were the components that displayed the most varied sizing. Interestingly, the few companies that used different increments between size groups, adopted the change only between one or two size groups, instead of all sizes. In conclusion, this research reveals the unsuitability of the current sizing system and the necessity to increase consumer confidence in the size tags on children's wear by modifying the system to reflect the actual growth of children. The results can also contribute to future study on the development of a new and more accurate sizing system for children's wear.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.15-33
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• 2004

A precise understanding of the human form in static pose serves as the basis of designing clothing. When the human body is in motion, however, even an article of clothing designed to fit the human form in static pose can pull and change, thus restricting the body. In order to increase the fit of the clothing, which may be termed the second skin, its form and measurements therefore must be determined in correlation not only with the formal characteristics of the human body, in static pose but also with its functional characteristics in motion, as caused by the movements of the human body. In this study, the motion factor was selected as the primary basis for designing slacks with good fit in both static and moving states. By indentifying the areas in which lower limb movement cause significant changes in body surface lines, we suggest several application methods for designing slacks. Using unmarried female university students aged 18 - 24 as subjects, a total of 32 body surface categories (15 body surface lines and 17 body surface segment lines) were measured in one static and 9 movement poses. In particular, expansion and contraction levels and rates were measured and used in the analysis. The analysis first involved the calculation of the average measurement per body part in body surface line in static pose as well as of the average expansion and contraction levels and rates in 9 lower limb movements. Two-way MANOVA and multiple comparison analysis (Tukey) were conducted on movements and individual somatotypes regarding measurement per body part and expansion and contraction rates. Body parts whose measurements of body surface lines differed significantly in body surface line in static pose versus in movement were then identified. The results of this study are as follows. First, changes in body surface lines caused by lower limb movements were significant in all body surface lines of the lower trunk, both horizontal and vertical, with the exception of abdomen girth, midway thigh girth, ankle girth, hip length, and posterior knee girth. Second, significantly expanded 10 body surface lines in moving pose were detected and illustrated in table 4. These body parts should be studied in designing or pattern designing, especially for close-fitting pants, in using stretch fabric, and in sensory evaluation of good fit during movement.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.129-147
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze domestic fashion education institution's program on apparel prototype and thereupon, address the problems and find their solutions, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to improve the basic patterns of apparel and ultimately, help reinforce the professional and practical apparel design education. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. 85.1% of the subjects finished graduate or higher courses. Almost all of the college and junior college teachers finished graduate or higher courses, while only 31.6% of those teaching at technical institutes finished graduate or higher courses. Such a finding suggests that colleges tend to employ their faculty members based on their academic background but that technical institutes value the practical ability of their faculty more. 2. As a result of surveying the types of basic patterns used by teachers, it was found that 72.3% of them were using two or more patterns. The basic pattern preferred most by our teachers was Japanese culture institute's type (71.3%), followed by the US FIT type (24.5%), Lim Won-Ja's type (22.3%), French ESMOD type (17.0%). 96.3% of our apparel design students were making their basic patterns as instructed by their teachers. 3. 67.0% of our students were using their conceived sizes for production of their basic patterns, 14.9% were referring to the ready-made sizes, 8.5% were relying on their teachers' individual experiences, and 9.6% were using their own cord sizes. In order to survey the difference between teachers' sizes (ready-made sizes or individual experienced ones) and business sizes used, the basic body measurements used for ready-made apparels were surveyed to be compared with the national standard body sizes set in 1997 for women aged between 18 and 24. As a result, it was found that the ready-made sizes used for apparel production prototypes than teachers' ones were nearer the national standard sizes. Such a finding suggests that it may well be necessary for teachers to be more connected with the apparel businesses and thereby, teach their students in a more realistic way with correct information. 4. 83.0% of the subject teachers were tacking their basic patterns to be well fitting, and 76.9% of these teachers were tacking the patterns in reference with students' individual body sizes. In all, 97.4% of the subject teachers were guiding the tacking process, which suggests that the flat patternmaking is taught primarily for customized apparels. As a result of comparing the fitness of basic patterns with those of each body part, it was found that teachers were most dissatisfied with the fitness of shoulders and arm hole depth. Therefore, it will be necessary to reclassify the body types or find other drawing techniques to improve the fitness of such body parts. Nevertheless, teachers were willing much (4.18) to develop their own educational basic patterns for themselves. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will be followed up by future studies on educational prototypes covering diverse body shapes and those on practical implementations of those prototypes for students.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.29-36
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• 2024

The public can now access movies faster and more easily thanks to over-the-top (OTT) services. The audience may be impacted by period dramas, where accurate costume reproduction is crucial. For filmmakers, it is critical to replicate period costumes using precise historical information. The goal of this study is to act as a reference so that, when it comes to period dramas, viewers can evaluate them using impartial criteria and movie producers can use data based on fact to plan their costumes. The film Napoleon won the British Academy Award for Costume after hiring costume experts to create 95% of the entire costume, according to data from the Napoleon I Museum. Following the French Revolution, the ostentatious and ornate men's attire vanished, to be replaced by a more modest and functional outfit. For tops, vests were cut to waist length, shirts, cravats, and carrick were worn, and tailcoats were the norm. The pants were swapped out for loose-fitting ones. The glitzy hues and embellishments from the bygone era progressively vanished and formed the foundation of the contemporary men's costume, which is dominated by black. The hats worn were tricorn, bicorn, top hat, and bowler, and the hairstyle changed from long to short gradually. The civil class wore short tops called carmagnoles. Napoleon wore a high-collared Napoleon collar and a tailcoat with a bicorn, which became his emblem. Green, navy, and white were the colors of the uniform, and a gray woolen coat was worn outside. The elaborately decorated costumes were worn to court and to banquets; the Napoleonic coronation costume was embellished with gold embroidery on silk, red velvet, and martyred hair; the post-revolutionary costumes gradually became more colorful. In the movie Napoleon, period clothing items were well represented, with the aristocracies wearing dark tailcoats, vests, shirts, and cravats. Based on the data from the men's costume, Napoleon's outfit in the movie was made more similarly. This study's limitation is that not every character in the movie could have their costume examined, and the material matter could not be precisely determined by examining the images displayed on the screen. Given that portraits typically feature a great deal of noble imagery, the clothing worn by common people is also associated with data limitations when it comes to movie costume design.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.69-79
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to compare fitting of the upper garment by brassiere cup size and types of bodice block. This study conducted a 3D virtual garment system by applying three types of bodice block (I, II, III) and experimental pattern of the bodice block to 3D avatars of four individuals with the following measurements: under bust circumference of 73.5 cm and bust circumferences of 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0cm. The results of the study were as follows. First, for 83.5 cm bust circumference (A Cup), appearance of the three types of bodice block (I, II, III) was appropriate. However, as bust circumference increased in size, shape became inappropriate. The depth and width of the armhole, within 15 cm and 11 cm, respectively, were found to be appropriate. In case of 91.0 cm bust circumference (D Cup), all three bodices (I, II, III) were inappropriate. Second, the results of the draft of the experimental patterns of the bodice block of bust circumference measuring 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0 cm in the 3D avatars of the four individuals revealed similarities in the frontal view of the silhouette in the four avatars; in the case of the lateral view of the silhouette, lateral width grew wider as bust circumference of the silhouette became larger, but the shape of armhole showed no changes. The depth of the armhole showed little changes from 15.1 cm to 15.22 cm, and the height of sleeve (armscye depth 13.6 cm within +2 cm) remained similar. The difference in width of the armhole from 11.26 cm to 11.37 cm was rather small. The width of the upper sleeve (8.97 cm) seemed to be appropriate as it remained within the 2-3 cm boundary.